i pulled my supercharger two days ago, i want to replace the rear bearings due to noise coming from rear. i am tearing it apart and in the process of changing the gaskets, bearings and new oil. i have taken a TON of pics along the way and continue to do so. once im done i will post the pics with a step by step process of how i did it. i know there may be a few threads with lists of process but i figured why not make one with pics too. im in no hurry but hopefully will have it back on car in about a week. i will include pics of all the parts with numbers that i use as well.

to anyone wanting to remove theirs that may be worried its difficult, it really isnt. before i bought my 06' 55 i never even changed the oil in a car before so i am a newbie to turning wrenches on cars but i am a 20 plus year refrigeration tech so i am somewhat mechanically inclined. to be honest the worst part was the clips as there are 12 years old and wanna break if ya look at them wrong.

i few tips...

1. i have several small cups labeled supercharger, throttle body etc and any screws go in there appropriate cup. less confusion that way.

2. clean as much of the engine around the super charge and fuel injectors as possible first. any debris can and will fall into the cylinders. luckily i was able to suck anything out with a small shop vac.

3. i did pull it by myself. its not that heavy but its the fact the the back is so far away from you it puts all the pressure on your lower back. if ya get a spare set of hands use them. if not just move slow.

4. you dont have to remove the throttle body or the injectors and fuel rail first but i did. i figured every ounce of weight i could remove makes the big lift lighter.

ill update when im finished with all the pics and part info. god i love working on my car!!

oh and i am planning on throwing on a fresh coat of paint on sc and maybe painting it a different color.

thanks

 

Let us know how replacing the bearings in the supercharger goes please.

 

i have an idea of how to get them out with dry ice. will see

 

They are glued in. There's a groove in the bearing and the case. You can see where epoxy is injected in from the bottom. Heat is better. Soften the epoxy so it will sheer easier. Hopefully the new bearings have a groove. If you use green locktite they will never come out again because the release temp for the locktite is around 400f.

 

so im stuck right now. having trouble getting the seal in first pic to pop apart so i can expose the twin screws. the new bearings do have groves in them. any ideas how to get that seam to separate? ok having trouble getting pics to load

 

 

sorry pic is so small but that is the seam i cant get to pop apart

 

Did you take the snap rings off the far end, at the bearings? Don't remember if that matters or not. I think not. Nevermind. Check for bolts you missed, and get a bigger hammer.

 

the bigger hammer worked. once apart i did notice some scratches on the silver screw and what appears to be a small section of coating that has come off of the yellowish screw. now the hard part, the bearings. i was going to clean everything up today and start to work on getting the engine v ready for when i reinstall but ive worked five consecutive 70 hour weeks so its a lazy couch day. will pick things back up tomorrow after work. still taking tons of pics and will make the pic tutorial once finished. thanks for assistance so far.

 

Take pics as you go then post them.

 

ok so i removed the bearings after work today. so, first i used a large flat head screw driver and rubber mallet and knocked out the roller bearings from the bearing housing. this left just the outer shell of the bearing with the grooves glued into the sc housing. next i used my oxygen/acetylene torch for about 20 to 30 seconds working around the inside of the shell to heat it up and melt the glue. you will see the glue oozing out from around the edge of the bearing shell and you will also see a snake like strand of the heated glue come out of the tiny injection hole used at the factory. its really weird looking when it comes out. once the glue began to ooze out and smoke i shut off the torch and flipped the sc housing up and used the large screwdriver set on the lip inside the bearing shell and two big hits with the rubber mallet and they popped right out. took less than 10 min total for both. now even though i didn't use the torch for very long the housing is aluminum and transfers heat quickly so use gloves when you flip the sc shell around to use screwdriver. that was the easiest part of the process so far. i have a couple of pics and a short 10 sec video of the torch melting the glue but cant get anything to load, wont drag and drop either. ill keep working on the pics. if you don't have a oxygen/acetylene rig a map gas or heat gun should work they will just take longer since they don't get as hot.

 

You can drill out the ports, I used a dental pick and a dremel abrasive saw blade to clean the grooves. Not sure what is the proper glue. I used regular slow jb weld in a syringe. Might not get them out again.

 

can you weigh the supercharger while you have it out?

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...injectors.html

 

@funk - yes i will once its back together. great link @elhonaz. question for you. when i had my bearings out and was cleaning out the leftover resin/glue form the grooves in the sc i noticed a large hole at the bottom of the grooves where a plastic stem protrudes down to the outside base of the supercharger. in your link post #18 and the 6th pic down there is a blue dot on the sc and on each side there is a orangish plastic circle. they pop out and it appears they are the same material as whats left in the grooves once the bearings are pressed out. wondering if this is where the factory actually injects the resin/glue and the tiny hole above the bearings is for the air to escape? mine was more like plastic vs glue. very hard a brittle, would melt with my torch but as soon as the heat was removed it went solid. i have pics but cant get them to post to save my life.

 

That's where the glue is injected to hold the bearings in.

 

yep, the grooves are molded into the case and IHI factory inserts the epoxy glue from the hole

"had a brain fart, the company making the sc is of course IHI and its a lysholm type sc"

 

so had a chance to install the new bearings. put bearings in freezer and at the same time the sc shell in the oven at 200 for 20 min each. cold bearings dropped in without even needing to push. wow that was easy. did my sc pulley bearing the same way and same result it just dropped in. will start putting things back together monday and weigh sc as someone wanted to know. been surprisingly easy to this point, lets hope it continues.

 

so after 35 days and a ton of headaches its back together and on the car. what a relief. of course now im running into more issues. so went to start it for first time last night and battery was dead. so today picked up a new main battery from batteries plus bulbs and she fired up. excitement didn't last long as it sounded HORRIBLE, was spitting out a ton of black smoke and had a very rough idle. so i start looking around to see if i could figure out problem. first i tried switching the throttle body cable with the bypass flapper cable thinking i got them backwards but that wasn't it, i had them right first time. next i looked at all the small vacuum lines and found the one that came off/apart. it comes from snout on sc and runs under sc to the front left of the engine. it goes from a clearish plastic then goes into black rubber, that's where is came undone. hooked it back up and car sounded so much better. going to buy all new vacuum lines tomorrow from dealership. so its still a bit rough but it has set for 35 plus days not running. so i scanned with mu elm327 and have 4 codes....

P1106
P0228
P0638
P2121

so i think the last three are from when i tried switching the throttle body cable and the bypass cable seeing if i had them hooked up wrong. i will try to clear the codes in the morning. the P1106 which from what i can tell has to do with the map sensor. i did replace the sensor with a new one while i had the sc off the car. im wondering if i bought the wrong map. the bosch part number on the sensor ended in 189. any thoughts on the P1106 would be helpful as im not finding much online specific to E55.

the car was slammed to the ground on the driver side and was worried i had bad front and read airbags but luckily once the car started and i hit the raise button the car leveled out. i really didnt want to have to buy new airbags/struts as were in the process of moving and spare cash is tight.

its been a much bigger headache than i anticipated but honestly loved every minute of it. i have grown to love wrenching on her and have realized the headaches are just part of the learning process.

 

Glad you got it up and running. Try clearing the codes and see if any come back. What did you end up using for bearing glue?

 

It's not unusual for them to lose a little air if the car has been sitting. If it's slammed you probably have a leak somewhere.

I just noticed yesterday that mine was too low in the rear so I fired it up and drove it up the street. Parked it and an hour later the rear was down again. Bought a new air bags and will have them swapped in this weekend along with a new driveshaft center bearing and support.

Big thumbs up to FCP Euro too. My order was flagged for having a different billing and shipping address. Called them back to confirm things were correct but found out my order wouldn't ship out today due to that. I had paid for 2 day shipping so I'd have the shocks here Friday (doing them Sunday). They upgraded me to next day shipping for no extra charge so that I'd have them in time.

 

 

hey, I know this thread is old but I’m also getting this P1106 code on my 2003 e55. I was getting the p0105 Map sensor code at first then I replaced the map sensor which was a Mercedes part with a Bosh sensor. Now getting the P1106 code instead of the p0105 code. Any help would be great in figuring this out! The car runs rough and lots of smoke coming from the exhaust.