W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

HELP E55 falls on its face WOT @ 5000 rpm no matter the gear it’s in.

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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 12:06 PM
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04 E55/04 SL55/R35 GTR
HELP E55 falls on its face WOT @ 5000 rpm no matter the gear it’s in.

So I decided to start a new thread because the old thread title was not accurate with the issue. This only happens at WOT right around 5000 RPM no matter what gear/speed it’s in or what drive mode is selected, at right around exactly 5000 RPM it loses all boost and almost feels like the brakes are applied. Otherwise it drives perfect and goes through all the gears fine when driving normal. Performance mods: 77mm clutched pulley, 550cc injectors, fabtech intake, colder plugs and 010 pump. Here is a link to the original thread, Which includes VIDS. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7534325

Last edited by MUSTANGRIDAH; Aug 23, 2018 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 12:10 PM
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Also I remove the supercharger belt last night and took it for run WOT and it shifts at exactly 5000 RPM and does not fall on its face with the supercharger belt removed . Another member I’ve been communicating with on the boards here User name 51north is experiencing this exact same issue.
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 05:18 PM
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Can you shift higher with no belt or it only go's to 5,000 ??
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 08:16 PM
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Do you have an OBDII logger? I would log IAT and Boost. Your MAP sensor might be acting screwy and reading higher than 17psi, which I believe will shut off the supercharger. Same thing will happen if IAT's get over ~200 deg.
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 10:35 PM
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I had the rubber intake boots by the radiator on mine collapsing at high boost. Just an idea and it would only take two minutes to test it by removing them. This was with an aftermarket ftp intake with rubber tubes. The stock plastic tubes wouldn't be an issue

Last edited by rttadam; Aug 23, 2018 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
Can you shift higher with no belt or it only go's to 5,000 ??
Hmm I will try that and report back.

Originally Posted by JoeJErnst
Do you have an OBDII logger? I would log IAT and Boost. Your MAP sensor might be acting screwy and reading higher than 17psi, which I believe will shut off the supercharger. Same thing will happen if IAT's get over ~200 deg.
IAT temps are good but the MAP values I will check and report back with my findings.

Originally Posted by rttadam
I had the rubber intake boots by the radiator on mine collapsing at high boost. Just an idea and it would only take two minutes to test it by removing them. This was with an aftermarket ftp intake with rubber tubes. The stock plastic tubes wouldn't be an issue
Hmm interesting, I have the full 3” FTP intake system with the updated silicone Y-pipe at the throttle body... Which intake system exactly was giving you the problem?
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 11:10 PM
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I have the ftp intake with silicone Y pipe and have stacked pulleys so there is plenty of boost. At wot and higher rpms the car would literally drop on it's face and it was kind of violent. I could roll on the throttle and the car would be fine. Marcin from what was formerly speeddriven was watching the car on the dyno and noticed the rubber intake tubes collapsing. It was the second ftp intake he had do this . I now have a couple metal tubes inside of the rubber intake tube. The rubber tubes I am referring to go towards the front of the car on the sides of the radiator.

Last edited by rttadam; Aug 23, 2018 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rttadam
I have the ftp intake with silicone Y pipe and have stacked pulleys so there is plenty of boost. At wot and higher rpms the car would literally drop on it's face and it was kind of violent. I could roll on the throttle and the car would be fine. Marcin from what was formerly speeddriven was watching the car on the dyno and noticed the rubber intake tubes collapsing. It was the second ftp intake he had do this . I now have a couple metal tubes inside of the rubber intake tube. The rubber tubes I am referring to go towards the front of the car on the sides of the radiator.
oh wow that’s crazy... yeah that’s which one I have. I’m going to remove the rubber tubes at the ends and try running it now. Will report back with results thanks.
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 11:42 PM
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I’m the other guy with the exact same problem as Mustang. I also have the FTP intake with the rubber tubes that don’t seem to fit very well and are always not connected to the plastic part under the radiator . When it happens it is definitely very violent. Feels like the brakes are being applied almost. With my car, if you just keep your foot to the floor it will continue with no supercharger until around 6000 or so RPM, shift into the next gear and immediately you’ll have full boost again .
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 11:46 PM
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Could someone please tell us at what rpm a normal operating 55 shifts at under WOT?
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 11:53 PM
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Mine would do it at wot between 45-6000 rpm. I redline at about 6800 rpm. I was positive it was a fuel pressure issue at first. Nope, the cheapo ftp rubber intake tubes were collapsing. It's easy and zero cost to diagnose it.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 01:03 AM
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PROBLEM SOLVED! It was the ****ty fkn FTP silicone intake tubes to the radiator.... took them off and is working perfect now. Now what is everyone doing to remedy this issue besides take them out completely? The silicone tubes themselves are to short and don’t connect to the radiator scoop openings so even if they were to be reinforced with a “sleeve” is like to connect them.

Originally Posted by rttadam
I had the rubber intake boots by the radiator on mine collapsing at high boost. Just an idea and it would only take two minutes to test it by removing them. This was with an aftermarket ftp intake with rubber tubes. The stock plastic tubes wouldn't be an issue
Originally Posted by 51north
I’m the other guy with the exact same problem as Mustang. I also have the FTP intake with the rubber tubes that don’t seem to fit very well and are always not connected to the plastic part under the radiator . When it happens it is definitely very violent. Feels like the brakes are being applied almost. With my car, if you just keep your foot to the floor it will continue with no supercharger until around 6000 or so RPM, shift into the next gear and immediately you’ll have full boost again .
Originally Posted by rttadam
Mine would do it at wot between 45-6000 rpm. I redline at about 6800 rpm. I was positive it was a fuel pressure issue at first. Nope, the cheapo ftp rubber intake tubes were collapsing. It's easy and zero cost to diagnose it.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 01:05 AM
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Thank you rttadam and everyone else who tried to solve this issue!!!
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 08:49 AM
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Crappy intake parts... Didn't see that coming Glad you got it solved..
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 09:31 AM
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Are you talking about the tubes that run from the air filter boxes to the radiator support for fresh air intake?
Just trying to understand completely.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 09:32 AM
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Glad it worked! I have a metal tube inside of the rubber tubes .
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tlambert
Are you talking about the tubes that run from the air filter boxes to the radiator support for fresh air intake?
Just trying to understand completely.
Correct. The stock tubes are a hard plastic. The ftp intake has flimsy ruber tubes which over time get weak.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 09:37 AM
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Wow. So basically it was shutting all the air off going to it at WOT.
Good to know.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 11:55 AM
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My experience (many years, many types of cars): For BMW/Benz/Porsche (those are the only ones I have experience with), the stock OEM intakes are engineered to provide about the best airflow to engine as possible. Velocity stacks, size of tubes, materials used, filter material..all best combination of performance to protection. I've tried all sorts of high flow intakes, cones, oiled filters (cotton and foam), etc, and in almost every case, I ended up better off with stock/oem setup
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 06:15 PM
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This is good news. I suspect mine has the same issue. The car is still at the dealership getting the fuel warranty work done, been 6 weeks now!!!! Thanks for the help!

One more thing, this may help someone else out in the future. In star I did get a code for “supercharger mechanical failure” pretty scary. But it didn’t make any sense. Now it does. Could not get any air.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lseguy
My experience (many years, many types of cars): For BMW/Benz/Porsche (those are the only ones I have experience with), the stock OEM intakes are engineered to provide about the best airflow to engine as possible. Velocity stacks, size of tubes, materials used, filter material..all best combination of performance to protection. I've tried all sorts of high flow intakes, cones, oiled filters (cotton and foam), etc, and in almost every case, I ended up better off with stock/oem setup
+1 stock
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 03:11 AM
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Yup it’s absolutely ridiculous as far as I’m concerned FTP is a garbage company. A few months back when I was installing this intake system I tried to get a hold of them a couple times via email left a couple voicemails and also via eBay messages and never heard back from them and this was just to purchase a silicone white pipe because of the poorly designed aluminum Y pipe that came with the intake.
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rttadam
Glad it worked! I have a metal tube inside of the rubber tubes .
Can you take a couple pics when you get a chance of your set up? My tubes don’t even mate up to the radiator intake scoops they’re too short.
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MUSTANGRIDAH


Can you take a couple pics when you get a chance of your set up? My tubes don’t even mate up to the radiator intake scoops they’re too short.
Will do.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 10:05 PM
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yes pics pls as i think i have same intake.
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