IC Pump?
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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IC Pump?
Hey Guys,
I know this topic has been discussed quite a bit in the past. I’d like to know if there is somewhat of a simple way to diagnose if the pump is faulty or not? My car has 67k, I am almost certain the pump is the original.
Cheers,
-Rob
I know this topic has been discussed quite a bit in the past. I’d like to know if there is somewhat of a simple way to diagnose if the pump is faulty or not? My car has 67k, I am almost certain the pump is the original.
Cheers,
-Rob
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 202
Likes: 30
2005 C55 AMG (sold), 2005 E55 AMG
Lots of ways to test the pump:
1. Hook up STAR to activate it
2. Jump the relay in the trunk
3. Do multiple back to back pulls to see if it heat soaks
4. Use an OBDII bluetooth adapter with an app like Torque to see your IAT's, etc
1. Hook up STAR to activate it
2. Jump the relay in the trunk
3. Do multiple back to back pulls to see if it heat soaks
4. Use an OBDII bluetooth adapter with an app like Torque to see your IAT's, etc
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
I will definitely look into it.
Cheers.
PLATINUM SPONSOR
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,834
Likes: 65
From: Texas
2003 CL55
If the pump looks stock, I would upgrade it for piece of mind anyway.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
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Member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 100
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From: Snohomish Co.
E55 AMG
I did both recently. Recorded the intake temp, while making a couple of 3rd gear pulls. Drove normally, and did not see the IAT come down very much. 152° 1st pull, the 174° after 2nd pull. IAT stayed above 138° after easy driving with 50° ambient temp. Jumpered the relay at the rear sam, and did not hear pump. Verified by checking with a test light at the pump. Replaced with a Bosch 0392022010, for $99.98 from cascadegerman, (Ebay). Road test at 45° ambient. IAT was at 76° cruise, then 114° with a hard one gear pull, then qyickly back to 82°. All is good! By the way, my E55 has 128K well maintained miles, on original pump.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 348
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2004 E55 AMG / 2019 Audi Q7 / 1991 300TE
Is the issue with the stock pump that it doesn't flow enough coolant to the i/c which results in the fluid getting hotter than is optimal or is the pump usually completely dead...effectively turning our ic into a less effective air to air piece? just trying to better understand our engine.
I realized i had a bad pump after my car got heat soaked and lost all boost after a couple back to back pulls on the highway. Started the process to replace the ic pump in November but the vice grips my dad had were too stubby to cut the coolant hose off completely. is there a particular tool you guys use? i'm sure a couple needle nose vice grips would work but i'd rather not have to buy 2 pairs just for this one job.
planning to bleed the system with what i thought was the easiest process - briefly stomping on the gas. i've seen a few forum members mention that this will kick on the ic pump. I'm guessing you could do this with the stock piece to see if it's still working
I realized i had a bad pump after my car got heat soaked and lost all boost after a couple back to back pulls on the highway. Started the process to replace the ic pump in November but the vice grips my dad had were too stubby to cut the coolant hose off completely. is there a particular tool you guys use? i'm sure a couple needle nose vice grips would work but i'd rather not have to buy 2 pairs just for this one job.
planning to bleed the system with what i thought was the easiest process - briefly stomping on the gas. i've seen a few forum members mention that this will kick on the ic pump. I'm guessing you could do this with the stock piece to see if it's still working
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 202
Likes: 30
2005 C55 AMG (sold), 2005 E55 AMG
Is the issue with the stock pump that it doesn't flow enough coolant to the i/c which results in the fluid getting hotter than is optimal or is the pump usually completely dead...effectively turning our ic into a less effective air to air piece? just trying to better understand our engine.
I realized i had a bad pump after my car got heat soaked and lost all boost after a couple back to back pulls on the highway. Started the process to replace the ic pump in November but the vice grips my dad had were too stubby to cut the coolant hose off completely. is there a particular tool you guys use? i'm sure a couple needle nose vice grips would work but i'd rather not have to buy 2 pairs just for this one job.
planning to bleed the system with what i thought was the easiest process - briefly stomping on the gas. i've seen a few forum members mention that this will kick on the ic pump. I'm guessing you could do this with the stock piece to see if it's still working
I realized i had a bad pump after my car got heat soaked and lost all boost after a couple back to back pulls on the highway. Started the process to replace the ic pump in November but the vice grips my dad had were too stubby to cut the coolant hose off completely. is there a particular tool you guys use? i'm sure a couple needle nose vice grips would work but i'd rather not have to buy 2 pairs just for this one job.
planning to bleed the system with what i thought was the easiest process - briefly stomping on the gas. i've seen a few forum members mention that this will kick on the ic pump. I'm guessing you could do this with the stock piece to see if it's still working
Vice grips are what most of us use. Pretty sure I used needle nose ones. Some say stomping on the gas works, some say it doesn't. Easiest way IMO is to jump the relay
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From: New Zealand
With a dead pump, the IC acts as a heat sink which gets overloaded fairly quickly. It is then cooled by air entering the engine while off boost. The intercooler unit itself is insufficient to keep up but with a working pump it will heat soak a huge amount slower than with a broken pump. The recovery is very quick also. I have never had power cut from thermal overload.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 288
From: New Zealand
Just for interest have a look at phase change fusion intercoolers http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...ooler&A=110772
Aspects of it as similar to what you get with a broken pump.
Aspects of it as similar to what you get with a broken pump.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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With a dead pump, the IC acts as a heat sink which gets overloaded fairly quickly. It is then cooled by air entering the engine while off boost. The intercooler unit itself is insufficient to keep up but with a working pump it will heat soak a huge amount slower than with a broken pump. The recovery is very quick also. I have never had power cut from thermal overload.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 367
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From: Dawesville, West Australia
2006 E55, 2006 SL55, 2006 LS7 Ute
Another way is to monitor your IC cooling water temp. If your pump is dead you will quickly see the temp climb, when all is OK the temp quickly starts to drop on start-up. The temp read sure lets you know what is going on with every brisk acceleration seen within seconds with a temp rise. Also after parking when hot and then starting up, the temp goes up depending on how long you were parked because the water in the IC itself has been heated by the hot engine. It quickly starts to drop again. As a guide I found that with a 2.5 gal tank of KC cooled water a full 1/4 mile run raised the temp of the water coming from the KC into the tank by nearly 30 deg F. I feel the same usefulness would be found with air/water heat exchangers, you could put the sensor anywhere between the H/E and the I/C.
