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Had the tank recall completed in 2017. The tank and pumps are now out of their warranty since my e55 is an 04. My fuel pressure is 40psi... half of what it should be. After digging around and researching I noticed my fuel pump(passenger side) is leaking gas, which seems to be coming out from the plug/wires...?
My question is it ok to just replace the passenger side unit and leave the one behind the driver side alone? Also will I need a new housing/cover for the pump after installing. Along with that do you know the part # for the passenger side pump and small exterior harness?
If your sender side was replaced recently then you can probably just replace the pump/assembly. They have to match. Just have a search on here and pelican parts. Is there not already a harness from the recall?
If your sender side was replaced recently then you can probably just replace the pump/assembly. They have to match. Just have a search on here and pelican parts. Is there not already a harness from the recall?
harness is there but I think it's leaking from the plug on the fuel pump cover in the picture. It's just a short wire that is connected to another plugin.
The recall was done in 2017 so I imagine the sender was replaced at this time. I didn't own the car until a few days ago so I'm not entirely sure how much the parts will cost for both sides.
I'm wondering if the pump itself is good, and the wires are the issue since I assume that's where the leak is coming out of... I'm going to pull them today and check the filters/pumps. I'll also check the power on each one
They should work fine even doused in fuel (obviously very unsafe). Unfortunately you can only get the top hat and pumps together. You could still have a wiring issue if they used the wrong adapter (there are two) and I don't remember seeing spliced wires on mine like you have in the photo with the insulation. You would have to open it up and confirm the +12 and ground actually go where they need to on both pumps.
They should work fine even doused in fuel (obviously very unsafe). Unfortunately you can only get the top hat and pumps together. You could still have a wiring issue if they used the wrong adapter (there are two) and I don't remember seeing spliced wires on mine like you have in the photo with the insulation. You would have to open it up and confirm the +12 and ground actually go where they need to on both pumps.
That left ground wire looks particularly dodgy.
I think I'll have to replace the wires no matter what, so I will end up buying that set first and then if it doesn't fix the pressure issue I'll end up getting some new fuel pumps. Do you know which adapter is the right one? I'll go snap some pictures of it right now.
If you have leaking you will need to replace the top hat no matter what. Not sure on the exact part, check threads by bbirdwell, tons on info on part numbers and compatibility.
If you have leaking you will need to replace the top hat no matter what. Not sure on the exact part, check threads by bbirdwell, tons on info on part numbers and compatibility.
agreed. Just second guessing if the pump is actually bad or if it's just bad wires. Here are the pics
That harness and wiring is not good. Should not be any joins in there anywhere, someone has been busy in the past.
looks like it... would it be wise of me to just get a new wire assembly like the one pictured and pump/housing? Not experienced with car harnesses so I wouldn't feel comfortable wiring it back to the relay/ecu... I'll dig around and try and see how hard it would be to revert the harness
Replace the adapter harness. Verify that whoever hacked the original harness upstream of the connector did not screw up the +/- leads on one of the pumps. If you replace the fuel pumps, replace the fuel filter/regulator on the passenger driver side. If the filter is clogged, it will overcurrent the pumps and melt the connector. Replace the tank seals where the pumps and filter/regulator fit in the tank. Inspect fuel pump relay socket for heat damage and replace the relay no matter how it looks. Do it right the first time. If you try to save money now you're just going to have to do it again a few months down the road.
Not all pumps and filter/regulators are compatible due to mid-production design changes to the fittings inside the tank.
The adapter cable for the 211-470-00-00 pumps swaps the power leads from original 1 and 3 to pins 2 and 3. In the photo below, the left connector connects to the stock harness; the wire colors should match your stock harness. Stock harness power leads are pins 1 and 3; look for the striped wires. The harness adapter connector on the right side you can see where stock harness connections 1 (power) and 2 (ground) are now 1 (ground) and 2 (power) where the harness plugs into the pumps. It is possible someone swapped the stock harness connections and now the adapter cable reverses the connections so one pump runs backward. Confirm your stock harness matches the left hand adapter cable plug and then confirm the right hand adapter cable plug matches the photo. Stock harness - 1 (power), 2 (ground), 3 (power), 4 (ground). 211-470-00-00 pumps have 1 (ground), 2 (power), 3 (power), 4 (ground). The adapter cable just swaps pins one and two. Fuel pump adapter cable is 211-540-07-00. Get rid of that hacked adapter cable.
When you key on the ignition, the ECU will activate the fuel pump relay for approximately one second and then kills power until the engine is turning over. That's enough time for a multi-meter or light to indicate which lines are power in your original harness connector.
In the following "Replaced by: xxx" refers to the upgraded part. +001 xxx, +002 xxx means you also need one each of the additional part number and two each of the other additional part number respectively.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Aug 6, 2019 at 10:38 AM.
Replace the adapter harness. Verify that whoever hacked the original harness upstream of the connector did not screw up the +/- leads on one of the pumps. If you replace the fuel pumps, replace the fuel filter/regulator on the passenger driver side. If the filter is clogged, it will overcurrent the pumps and melt the connector. Replace the tank seals where the pumps and filter/regulator fit in the tank. Inspect fuel pump relay socket for heat damage and replace the relay no matter how it looks. Do it right the first time. If you try to save money now you're just going to have to do it again a few months down the road.
Not all pumps and filter/regulators are compatible due to mid-production design changes to the fittings inside the tank.
The adapter cable for the 211-470-00-00 pumps swaps the power leads from original 1 and 3 to pins 2 and 3. In the photo below, the left connector connects to the stock harness; the wire colors should match your stock harness. Stock harness power leads are pins 1 and 3; look for the striped wires. The harness adapter connector on the right side you can see where stock harness connections 1 (power) and 2 (ground) are now 1 (ground) and 2 (power) where the harness plugs into the pumps. It is possible someone swapped the stock harness connections and now the adapter cable reverses the connections so one pump runs backward. Confirm your stock harness matches the left hand adapter cable plug and then confirm the right hand adapter cable plug matches the photo. Stock harness - 1 (power), 2 (ground), 3 (power), 4 (ground). 211-470-00-00 pumps have 1 (ground), 2 (power), 3 (power), 4 (ground). The adapter cable just swaps pins one and two. Fuel pump adapter cable is 211-540-07-00. Get rid of that hacked adapter cable.
When you key on the ignition, the ECU will activate the fuel pump relay for approximately one second and then kills power until the engine is turning over. That's enough time for a multi-meter or light to indicate which lines are power in your original harness connector.
In the following "Replaced by: xxx" refers to the upgraded part. +001 xxx, +002 xxx means you also need one each of the additional part number and two each of the other additional part number respectively.
Thanks for the response. The plugin to the filter housing itself is 1ground 2power 3power 4ground. The adaptor harness turns it into 1ground 2power 3ground 4power. The same goes for the harness the wire adaptor goes to is also 1ground 2power 3ground 4power... maybe I misread it?? Extremely confused as to why mine is so botched compared to those. I'll double check once I get back home to verify
Thanks for the response. The plugin to the filter housing itself is 1ground 2power 3power 4ground. The adaptor harness turns it into 1ground 2power 3ground 4power. The same goes for the harness the wire adaptor goes to is also 1ground 2power 3ground 4power... maybe I misread it?? Extremely confused as to why mine is so botched compared to those. I'll double check once I get back home to verify
Im thinking I looked at the wires wrong. Do these look correct?
Yikes! What a mess.Do exactly as bbirdwell instructed. If you get confused on the wiring, the pumps are also color coded. You can follow the hot and ground right through the connector with your eyes when the pumps are out. When I did mine I didn't have both adapters so I just swapped 2 wires in the plug to keep hot with hot and ground with ground. As long as I never sell the car it won't confuse anybody.
Yikes! What a mess.Do exactly as bbirdwell instructed. If you get confused on the wiring, the pumps are also color coded. You can follow the hot and ground right through the connector with your eyes when the pumps are out. When I did mine I didn't have both adapters so I just swapped 2 wires in the plug to keep hot with hot and ground with ground. As long as I never sell the car it won't confuse anybody.
yeah I seem to be over thinking it. Simply just 2 powers and 2 grounds. Once I get the fuel pumps I'm going to check where they line up on the wire plugin and redo the wiring with the proper harness
One of the part numbers listed is just a square piece of insulating foam that sticks to the underside of the metal lid over the fuel pumps. Makes sense when you look at the condition of the insulation on the power leads in your photo. Imagine what would happen if the power lead shorts out against the underside of the metal lid...
Don't forget to replace the fuel pump relay on the passenger side of the trunk behind the panel. No access port so you have to pull the whole panel. Your 2004 should only have the fuel pump relay under the panel; the air injection relay for your car should be next to the auxiliary battery under the hood. I say this because model year 2005 has two relays (one fuel pump, one air pump) in the trunk and the model year 2006 has three relays (two fuel pump, one air pump) in the trunk.
If your harness connector is damaged, just purchase an extra adapter cable, cut off the appropriate connector, and use that to repair the stock harness. Adapter cables are only around $15 each.
Yep its fairly simple, replace the whole harness, use adapter harness as necessary to get correct polarity on the second pump. Then check fuel pressure at idle and under boost to confirm everything is fine.
One of the part numbers listed is just a square piece of insulating foam that sticks to the underside of the metal lid over the fuel pumps. Makes sense when you look at the condition of the insulation on the power leads in your photo. Imagine what would happen if the power lead shorts out against the underside of the metal lid...
Don't forget to replace the fuel pump relay on the passenger side of the trunk behind the panel. No access port so you have to pull the whole panel. Your 2004 should only have the fuel pump relay under the panel; the air injection relay for your car should be next to the auxiliary battery under the hood. I say this because model year 2005 has two relays (one fuel pump, one air pump) in the trunk and the model year 2006 has three relays (two fuel pump, one air pump) in the trunk.
If your harness connector is damaged, just purchase an extra adapter cable, cut off the appropriate connector, and use that to repair the stock harness. Adapter cables are only around $15 each.
I ordered the 2 relays, 2 adaptor cables, and the pump setup. I got some extra relays and adaptor cables as spares incase I mess one of them up on accident. If not I'll have some spares for the next time it goes out.
I'm also not sure if I ordered the old fuel pump, but on the picture it almost looks like it goes pos/neg/pos/neg, whereas the current one I have goes neg/pos/pos/neg. Maybe the picture is just out-dated. We'll see once it get's here. If it does go pos/neg/pos/neg should i just remove the adaptor harness and plug it in without it?
I'll need to order a new grommet and the screw-cap since the ones I have will need to be replaced. Happen to know the part #'s on them by chance? Appreciate all the help so far it's been great.
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