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Was thinking of installing two single NOS nozzles right before the supercharger intercooler to cool down the cooler itself. Probably a number 15 jet for each nozzle and up the fuel at the tank nozzles that I already have now.
So my question is....what is the chance of freezing the water in the cooler? The temperature is around 45 degrees at the start of passing water through from the ice tank and so nitrous is like 130* below zero or something like that.
My theory is I am spraying the engine any how so lets hit the cooler with some NOS to chill it.
Concerned about freezing the water inside the cooler as it is passing through.
I couldn't tell you if it'll freeze or not but you can always add some antifreeze ;-P No experience with it but here are a couple of theoretical points I'll make:
The intercooler cooling efficiency is directly related to the difference in temperature of the intercooler water and the charge air. The NO2 performs the majority of it's cooling not due to it's temperature but due to expansion and phase change going from a compressed liquid to a non-compressed gas (energy absorbed through latent heat of vaporization and depressurization cools the air around it drastically). Because the amount of energy the NO2 is going to absorb through expansion and evaporation is relatively fixed, the temperature of the charge air doesn't have a major impact on how much cooling the NO2 will actually do. So if you spray pre-intercooler the NO2 will remove a relatively constant amount of heat from the air lowering the temp, THEN your intercooler water temperature will be closer to the temperature of the charge air and not tranfer as much energy into the intercooler water. BUT if you spray after the intercooler the intercooler will have a large difference in temperature across it, remove as much heat as possible due to the larger delta-T, THEN the NO2 will still remove that relatively constant amount of heat from the charge air netting you an over all colder IAT.
If you spray pre-intercooler the NO2 will also be cooling the intercooler and intercooler water. While that may sound like a good thing, I think that since the heat the NO2 is going to absorb while expanding/vaporizing is fixed, the cooling it does on the intercooler and water is energy that it would be absorbing from the charge air alone if you spray post intercooler.
Any ways, just my two cents. Best of luck however you decide to do it
I couldn't tell you if it'll freeze or not but you can always add some antifreeze ;-P No experience with it but here are a couple of theoretical points I'll make:
The intercooler cooling efficiency is directly related to the difference in temperature of the intercooler water and the charge air. The NO2 performs the majority of it's cooling not due to it's temperature but due to expansion and phase change going from a compressed liquid to a non-compressed gas (energy absorbed through latent heat of vaporization and depressurization cools the air around it drastically). Because the amount of energy the NO2 is going to absorb through expansion and evaporation is relatively fixed, the temperature of the charge air doesn't have a major impact on how much cooling the NO2 will actually do. So if you spray pre-intercooler the NO2 will remove a relatively constant amount of heat from the air lowering the temp, THEN your intercooler water temperature will be closer to the temperature of the charge air and not tranfer as much energy into the intercooler water. BUT if you spray after the intercooler the intercooler will have a large difference in temperature across it, remove as much heat as possible due to the larger delta-T, THEN the NO2 will still remove that relatively constant amount of heat from the charge air netting you an over all colder IAT.
If you spray pre-intercooler the NO2 will also be cooling the intercooler and intercooler water. While that may sound like a good thing, I think that since the heat the NO2 is going to absorb while expanding/vaporizing is fixed, the cooling it does on the intercooler and water is energy that it would be absorbing from the charge air alone if you spray post intercooler.
Any ways, just my two cents. Best of luck however you decide to do it
This!
Let the intercooler do what it can then let the nitrous cool it further. If you spray pre intercooler, the intercooler wont do much, if anything, and may even reheat the air a bit. If you want to try to cool the intercooler with nitrous you can spray it externally on the front mount heat exchanger, but that's probably not worth it.
Just make sure the nitrous is delivered before the intake air temp sensor so you don't pull timing unnecessarily (but also make sure it doesn't spray on the sensor causing the IAT to read artificially low).
Right now it is after the intercooler and right at the bottom of the tanks elbow turn.
My timing would not be an issue as there is no temperature correction in the tune factored in. So temperatures make no changes on timing at all.
Right now it is after the intercooler and right at the bottom of the tanks elbow turn.
My timing would not be an issue as there is no temperature correction in the tune factored in. So temperatures make no changes on timing at all.
You got rid of the timing cut based on IAT? I'm not sure that's safe (even with great cooling (which I have never seen on an E55) you would probably want a safeguard in case you have a pump failure or something). Also, if the IAT is incorrect (reading too high because its reading pre nitrous) it will cause AFR issues. You can probably tune around it if you have separate tunes for with and without nitrous, but its not ideal
You can relocate the IAT sensor to a surge tank if you want.
You got rid of the timing cut based on IAT? I'm not sure that's safe (even with great cooling (which I have never seen on an E55) you would probably want a safeguard in case you have a pump failure or something). Also, if the IAT is incorrect (reading too high because its reading pre nitrous) it will cause AFR issues. You can probably tune around it if you have separate tunes for with and without nitrous, but its not ideal
You can relocate the IAT sensor to a surge tank if you want.
I assure you he has lots of safe gaurds ;-)
I myself have had the timing cuts raised to 120 vs starting at 97(or 95?), and then just make sure to tune accordingly.
My IAT's are around 110*. That truly is nothing on a supercharged engine.
My timing used to be all over the place and now holds steady at around 21-22 degrees. Very safe.
I always run 108 octane and than spike it to 112 when racing so very safe there.
Afr is always on the safe side.11.1 always even on NOS and when racing I stare at the Wide Band all the way down the track. If it starts dropping,shes dumping fuel due to temps but that has never happened.
So long story told I have covered everything to protect the engine....I hope !! LOL
My IAT's are around 110*. That truly is nothing on a supercharged engine.
My timing used to be all over the place and now holds steady at around 21-22 degrees. Very safe.
I always run 108 octane and than spike it to 112 when racing so very safe there.
Afr is always on the safe side.11.1 always even on NOS and when racing I stare at the Wide Band all the way down the track. If it starts dropping,shes dumping fuel due to temps but that has never happened.
So long story told I have covered everything to protect the engine....I hope !! LOL
WOW! You're serious about this. Must be hard to find tires to keep up with the power. I'm running some pretty impressive Yokohama's right now. They were around $450 a piece, but I got them on sale because they only had 2 left. 295/30/19. I can dead hook in first with a stock motor if I'm smooth on the gas.
I would assume similar could be done with e85. E85 will not knock before around 130 degrees IAT depending on compression and boost level (static compression).
I am looking into the E85 conversion. Taping into the fuel line will be the issue due to the way the sensor fittings look on the kit that VRP kit.
The fuel line has some real estate after it dumps down to the side rail on the driver's side. There is also the opportunity to plumb it through a loop after the trip to the fuel rail.
That said, the system is quite small, and finding a way to get larger lines plumbed, larger pumps, and a return system is paramount after a certain HP level (or at nearly stock but E85 level, for headroom).
I already have a return system . Larger feed line, Aeromotive regulator, In tank pump system worked over, Kenne Bell boost a pump,looped rail. I did all this long before I started moding the car so I should be covered.
Driver side. 8 feed and 6 return.My only mistake was that I really should have just put in 750cc injectors instead of the 630's from the beginning . That is what will be needed for running E85 as my 630's are almost maxed out now since I tend to run the engine rich all the time.
Also a little hesitant running the 85 as I have no experience with it tuning wise.
09-17-2019, 04:56 PM
