So I installed the oil pressure gauge and replaced the waterpump pulley and tensioner pulley and the car still ticks. The oil pressure gauge reads around 10psi at idle which seems really low and the engine still ticks(hydraulic lifters), When I rev the car to 3k rpm the ticking stops every single time, its as if the oil pump gets enough pressure to reach the top of the engine but any rpm less than 3k still has ticking.

So my question is can I remove the oil pump while the engine is still in the car? I am sure I can if I were to drop the subframe, but If anyone has done it before just let me know please. There is basicly only 1 person (in the world) that has documented removing it and that is the guy with the youtube channel SK8215, I already tried asking him about the oil pump** and even the correct oil pressure** but he hasint gotten back to me. So if there is anyone else that has done this or knows an answer to any of my questions let me know please thank you very much.

I just don’t have the time or money to comb through the entire valvetrain, and/or drop the subframe to check out the oil pump and pickup, nor am I hugely mechanically inclined. I will tell you, everyone experiences some level of ticking with these motors, with varying degrees of severity. I check my oil frequently, and have made my peace with it. The car runs fantastic and has no other symptoms. It’s been ticking since the day I got it at 69k miles and I’m at 89k now with no issues. Maybe someone will be able to comment with something useful but my experience has been that it’s just not worth the pain. But if you have the patience and the means, start tearing it apart! Only way to truly find out. And I don’t believe there is any way to get to pump other than dropping subframe or pulling the motor up.

Please find attached WIS document AR18.00-P-1250RVK - "Oil pressure check"

Your pressure is ok. Your pump is ok. You have no "SK8215 hard oring issue".

Anybody heard about any M113K noisy valvetrain issues?


Get a good stethoscope examination. Get to know that it's your oil pump chain and just live with that

Thank you very much @coobah for that pdf, and yes it seems like my idle psi of 10 is spot on with the pdf I need to double check the psi at 3k rpm, but like I said after revving the car atlest 5 times to 3k rpm, the ticking completely stops at exactly 3k rmp, I also just replaced the passenger side hydraulic lifters a week ago, and the previous owner said he replaced the drivers side lifters, but it sounds like the ticking is coming from the drivers side lifters, but again right at 3k rpm it goes away completely. The sound could be the oil pump belt but I am really not sure,


**VERY IMPORTAINT PART after adding oil stabilizer and hydraulic lifter additive the ticking gets quieter and in some cases completely goes away at idle, this is the reason I think it is the pump not flowing oil to the lifters at the top of the engine until 3k rpm. If it were the chain tapping against the case then it would continue to tap and make the sound even after adding oil stabilizer additive, but in the case of adding the additives the sound goes away.

Listen.....I don't know what the sound is like in your engine but this I can tell you....they are noisy engines. Case closed !!!

I have had my engine apart for a freshen up , bearings, pump so on and so forth. Oil pressure still the same, 15 psi at idle 75 when reving hot. Ticks just the same with new oil pump chain as well and modified front cover so the chain will never hit.
I remember when I first bought my car and drove it home. Opened the hood while running and said..."This is a mercedes, my Crown victoria with 230,000 miles is far more quiet than this !!!! LOL

the "SK8215 hard oring issue" is complete and utter bull****. That guy is a hack

That guy may have looked like a back yard machanic pulling his engine out, read "total mess" but he is a great fabricator thinking outside the box and even created his own one off tube frame race car.
the o ring deal...well mine was "firm" but only had 70k on it and his engines looked like the oil was never changed and had filthy internals as well.

You can drop the pan if you take the sub frame out, but the oil dripping out of the engine for three weeks makes it almost impossible to reseal it. You can get to the pump, but not the timing cover where the oil pump chain and tensioner are. After having done it, I think it would be less work to pull the motor than worki underneath.
Thicker oil will quiet the oil pump chain. you need to isolate where the tick is coming from. A 3 foot piece of broom handle with your thumb knuckle over the end works well. Put your thumb knuckle in your ear and put the other end of the stick near the crank pulley, then try the valve covers. Lifter noise should be looked at if that's were it's coming from.

FAR from a great fabricator and lacks the basic understanding of WHY you do things. His onboard rear suspension on his E55 is a great example of not understanding why things are done the way they are on a race car

OK

So the gauge is in and positioned inside my car so I can see it while I drive. Here are the results after warming up the car's oil pressure sits at 10psi at 700rpm idle (when I say idle I mean the car in drive but not moving, when the car is in park it will have 1-2 higher psi than the numbers I provided), but if I go drive the car around a block or 2 and let it sit at idle, the oil pressure psi will go as low as 7psi (and stay) which I dont think is normal. I read the reccomended psi for the car and it says it should be at 10psi at idle but isint. If anyone else has a oil pressure gauge let me know your readings please, @SICAMG claimed his oil pressure at idle is 15psi which seems right and way higher than mine.

Again my car is ticking even after replacing my hydraulic lifters and I assumed it was because of the oil pump and so I installed the gauge and now from reading the levels I am sure it has to be the pump, so me and my buddy will go ahead and drop the subframe and then take the oil pan off the car sometime this week so we can get to the oil pump and replace the O ring to hopefully help the pump regain pressure. If anyone has any insight please contribute please,I am not happy my car started ticking after driving only 2500miles after I bought it and its sits now at 103,500miles on my CLS55.

I want to ask one more question someone might have the answer to, I want to inject some oil MANUALLY into the top of my engine through a port but I am not sure where the port is, when I took the car to a mercedes mechanic they told me that when diagnosing the ticking they first injected some oil into a port at the top of the engine and the ticking went away for a little. I cannot find where the port is located, if someone has the answer let me know please thank you. for any and all insight on my issue.

What is the pressure when 1- cold idle ,2- driving around and 3- hot while driving.

You are showing a 3lb lower reading than recommended and I do not think 3lb will cause your problems so get the numbers to us and will go from there.

Also what oil are you using and how old is it?
Important !!! What oil filter are you using?

Can you post a vid of the noise you are hearing?

I am using a MANN filter from fcp euro, I replaced the oil from the previous owner with mobil 1 5w40 synthetic oil less than 1500 miles ago. On a cold start the oil pressure goes from 40 psi at idle then slowly drops after accelerating and heating up to normal temp and levels out to 10-6 psi.

At 3k rpm at normal temp the ticking completely goes away and the pressure goes to 60psi. The pressure does not fluctuate much but honestly anything under 10psi is insane to me for a 5.4L V8 engine.

Although the MB reccomended oil pressure says 10psi at idle some people are claiming they are getting 15 psi at idle and other various numbers. As of right now this oilpump O ring is going to be replaced this week, I have my eye on a used oil pump from a 150k m113k but am hesitating to buy it as I doubt the oil pump itself is having an issue.

The sound is congruent to the sound of the engine rpms, as I rev the engine the ticking increases in sound and is surely from the hydraulic lifters(The lifters have all been replaced and are new from the last 6k miles). The ticking abruptly stops the seccond I hit 3k rpm in neutral and in drive. But once I let off and drop below 3k rpm the ticking comes back immediately.Thx for contributing btw.

You really need to locate the ticking exactly before you take it apart. Oil pump anything, pull the motor out. Trust me on that. If it's a lifter, specifically which one?

It's amusing how many of the sheep have been manipulated by that one trashy channel

The ticking is coming from my hydraulic lifters, as I said all the lifters were replaced with new lifters. The ticking is coming directly from them no doubt, the reason they tick is because they are not getting any oil to them, also all the rocker arms are functioning and look perfect(they all flow oil), so there is the issue, now what else could be the reason the car is ticking before your dumbass calls me a sheep, it has to be something related to the oil pump.

I even installed a gauge and its reading low oil pressure so what does your dumbass think the issue is if you are soo smart @amg-svt-ftv ? I'm not a sheep for coming to the conclusion that me having low oil pressure and ticking from my lifters after replacing them all has to be an issue from the oil pump.

Is your oil pressure gauge accurate? I looked up "lifter ticking" on my professional tech network, and oil filter issue for cold start noise. And rocker arm wear is more of an issue than the little hydraulic lifter. The O ring deal has never shown up in any of my pro searches.
I'm not saying that you don't have an oil pump issue, or even worn bearings. As far was the M113(K) being noisey, After a drive in my 133K miles E55, I get out to open the garage door, and think how quiet it sounds at idle. I do hear an occasional tick, now and then.
Here is a good M113 rocker arm video.

So you are saying you can't replace the oil pump chain from underneath the car? Thanks.

It may be overstated, but it is not BS. My car definitely had an issue, and I suspect from tearing mine apart that there may have been a quality control issue with the alignment of the oil pump and feed pipe in some cars. The two parts (oil pump and oil pump feed tube) are bolted to the engine separately, and the spacing of their alignment is key to properly compressing the O-ring between them. Basically, if someone was a millimeter off when they welded the mounting tabs onto the feed pipe assembly, it throws off the alignment of the joint between the two parts. In my case, the feed pipe does not go down into the hole in the pump far enough to properly compress the O-ring from all sides as designed when all of the parts are bolted down. This was obvious from the shape of the solid o-ring when it came out, as it was bulged out round on both sides, where it should have been compressed into a square shape if everything was aligned properly. That gap means that the elasticity of the rubber is very critical to the seal quality.

My car started making a horribly loud noise from the front oil pickup location which got progressively louder through about 5-7 days of driving after it started. I mostly left it sit because it was scaring the crap out of me that it would blow the engine. This noise was basically completely corrected by replacing the O-ring, which had practically zero seal on disassembly(there is still audible gear whine there, but nothing remotely like before). I suspect it would only have gotten worse if allowed to continue, eventually leading to engine damage. I also suspect this will start to affect more cars as the rubber starts to age out, but we shall see. Hopefully most of our cars have better alignment in that joint than mine did.

You can see before and after video of the problem with my car here, as well as the whole discussion that happened when it went down.. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-pan-area.html

Only it's not welded by a human, It's an automated weld on a part in a jig

Either way, the fit is off alignment on my car, and I doubt mine is the only one.

interesting to read about someone with ticking noises after a rebuild

i rebuilt the engine for my 2003 s55, added more aggressive cams, long tube headers, shimmed the valve springs for a hair more spring pressure (probably nothing more than the spring pressure when these springs were new 20 years ago) and ported the heads (along with some other slight modifications internally)

I’ve read that long tube headers and aggressive cams can lead to a noisier tapping from the valve slapping the valve seat. The long tube headers are thin stainless steel and I believe only amplify my valve train noise

i narrowed the noise down to the lifters and removed them and rebuilt them again. This time I paid extra attention to bleeding off any excess air/oil inside the lifter after assembly

reassembled the valve train and there is still a ticking noise for some reason… Engine runs very strong. I am taking it easy during break-in, and yet still the car wants to go flying with any moderate application of the gas pedal

my next step is to also investigate oil pressure, which brought me to this thread for more details on the parts list.

Above the oil pump (which I agree, does not line up great on the m113’s) is an oil check -valve. I noticed during assembling some m113’s that this valve must be “reset” to a certain position or the valve will not open/close properly

One big thing I have noticed on m113’s I’ve disassembled with lifter noise and those without -

the engines I’ve taken apart with lifter noises always have “frozen” lifters (filled with oil, and do not move freely when they are squeezed)

and engines I’ve taken apart with no lifter noise always have very freely moving lifters. Easily pressed together with two fingers

EDIT: Sorry folks wrong thread.