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I’m curious what some of you guys would do and looking for advice. Put my car on the dyno this morning. Weather was perfect. Everything was good to go. And my results were less than impressive.
im not the most knowledgeable about this stuff, but You don’t have to be a scientist to know this graph looks like ****, right? I can’t believe this is the current tune I have on my car.
Should I give the tuner another crack at it, or should I switch to the company that seems to be the most popular on here? I recently had him send me an updated file and as soon as I started the car after I installed the new file the car was running like crap. I didn’t even dare put the thing in drive. Bogging down and idling like crap. Put back on the old tune and everything was back to normal. Since that issue and this dyno graph from this morning I’m having serious doubts about this company.
You should put your location in your signature as it helps so others can help or guide you to shops close to you, just my 02.
Anyhow do a search for well known tuners here. Couple of very good tuners that can help you.
Race IQ comes to mind.
You should put your location in your signature as it helps so others can help or guide you to shops close to you, just my 02.
Anyhow do a search for well known tuners here. Couple of very good tuners that can help you.
Race IQ comes to mind.
This is a race iq tune. My car is not heavily modified by any means. Pulley, 82mm tb and tune. Plus all the cooling mods. I just really don’t understand how my time could be so off. I’d really like to not have to go to another company, but if your tune is that far off i don’t know if I can trust it when I do cams and install my long tubes.
First off it looks like the AFR is very consistant but can't read what it is on the page so don't chase the tune just yet.
Second the rpm shows they took it to 7'500 rpm !!!!!! That explains the dip at the end !!
Third just concern yourself with the first dip as something was going on there. How does it feel on the road. Do you have a wide band and fuel pressure gauge in the car at the very least ? They are mandatory for tuning and a safe,properly running engine . Do you data log?
Also maybe the second tune did not load correctly the second time but again, don't chase that just yet until you have more information on fueling and timing.
First off it looks like the AFR is very consistant but can't read what it is on the page so don't chase the tune just yet.
Second the rpm shows they took it to 7'500 rpm !!!!!! That explains the dip at the end !!
Third just concern yourself with the first dip as something was going on there. How does it feel on the road. Do you have a wide band and fuel pressure gauge in the car at the very least ? They are mandatory for tuning and a safe,properly running engine . Do you data log?
Also maybe the second tune did not load correctly the second time but again, don't chase that just yet until you have more information on fueling and timing.
They took it to redline. Car was in dyno mode. I wasn’t too concerned with the end as much as the middle. When we buy these tunes nobody is asking for AFRs or logs. I guess you just assume the cookie cutter tunes that are available, at least from certain companies, are nowhere near where they should be.
when I’m on the road I don’t necessarily feel the power loss. ASP in the Bay Area has worked on my car a couple times and they’re a eurocharged dealer so I think I should pay the money and have them remote tune the car. I’ll buy and wideband and have them install it for me as well.
yeah mate give eurocharged a whirl. I was one their tunes fir years all different stages of mod and they always came. up aces.
I wanted a mygenius and a valet tune so I thought I'd give race IQ a try. lots of people talking them up. anyway all tubes he sent me were the ltft owas out by like 16%+ tried a bunch of retune always wonky producing a CEL.
But the worst was that I'd have the car in manual mode (at any throttle percentage) hit redline and it would keep reving with no limiter until the engine would pop out of gear and wouldnt go back into gear without restart. in sport mode on wot itd over rev becau the trans wouldnt keep up and. pop out. lower throttle itd change in time.
As I've said the trans shifts and car runs fine with rev limiter with eurocharged.
cant use the mygenius and valet tune either so total loss but not the end of the world mate.
Wide band is mandatory. You have no idea what the engine is seeing for fueling. I have loaded a dozen tunes at least over a couple years of racing and have fine tuned it by the AFR. I have also loaded in some very "wrong" tunes that was seen by the wide band. There was no way to tell what was going on unless you where able to see for your self.
And if you are a real nut like my self, install the wide band with fail safe option. When programmed, if the system see's something beyond what is safe that you programmed, it will shut off the supercharger ...that's what mine is set up to do. Has save my engine so many times I can't count anymore LOL Just my 2-cents.
yeah mate give eurocharged a whirl. I was one their tunes fir years all different stages of mod and they always came. up aces.
I wanted a mygenius and a valet tune so I thought I'd give race IQ a try. lots of people talking them up. anyway all tubes he sent me were the ltft owas out by like 16%+ tried a bunch of retune always wonky producing a CEL.
But the worst was that I'd have the car in manual mode (at any throttle percentage) hit redline and it would keep reving with no limiter until the engine would pop out of gear and wouldnt go back into gear without restart. in sport mode on wot itd over rev becau the trans wouldnt keep up and. pop out. lower throttle itd change in time.
As I've said the trans shifts and car runs fine with rev limiter with eurocharged.
cant use the mygenius and valet tune either so total loss but not the end of the world mate.
sorry for the typos using the phone and lazy.
The first time I took the car to the drag strip I had the same transmission issue during the burnout! I had no idea what happened but restarted the car and everything was back to normal. Now I know it’s just another issue with the tune??? That’s 3 strikes for raceiq...
I would put the stock throttle body back on and check for any leaks. I've seen the Mercedes 82mm throttle bodies go bad from time to time.
That issue was the stock TB. Ive done all tests for all leaks. Maintenance is perfect. Car has zero issues. Throttle body is brand new. Every gasket has been replaced. No leaks anywhere.
I’m gonna have another shop put it on the dyno to make sure it wasn’t shoo error. We will see. If not I’m going with eurocharged.
Yeah I didn't get much help from him either, he tried a bunch of tunes to try adjust the fueling issue with my LTFT (with no success) but nothing in regard to the gearshift issue. I get the impression he is busy doing shop work and dyno tunes and doesn't have as much time for supporting his remote customers? Might be that they are struggling with scaling, but I wholeheartedly think that euro-charged tune is tried and tested by must be thousands of customers by now? They also have that engine warranty and Jerry has always been great when I've spoken to him.
There are a couple of things that can cause the transmission to drop gear and go into a 'limp' mode. One thing to check is your transmission fluid, if its too high or low when the line pressure goes whack the car will drop out of gear and throw a 'gear implausible code' cant remember the # but its around here if you search for 'transmission fluid problem e55' in google I am sure (google search engine search function seems better than the forum one). Issues with the valvebody or the transmission pump (pump that sits internally in the trans with the torque converter and generates the line pressure for the VB as far as I understand) could potentially cause a gear implausible code but most likely culprit is fluid slightly out.
It can also be tune related as I discovered with my RaceIQ tune. The 'safest' way I found to reproduce the issue was to find a quiet back street or country road somewhere, put the car in first gear and apply as gentle throttle as possible to get the car to hit and 'exceed' redline, you might have to hold it at redline or more or a couple of seconds before it pops out. Feels really unnatural to have the car revved out so far with so little throttle but it should pop out of gear if you have the same tune related issue as I had.
Yeah I didn't get much help from him either, he tried a bunch of tunes to try adjust the fueling issue with my LTFT (with no success) but nothing in regard to the gearshift issue. I get the impression he is busy doing shop work and dyno tunes and doesn't have as much time for supporting his remote customers? Might be that they are struggling with scaling, but I wholeheartedly think that euro-charged tune is tried and tested by must be thousands of customers by now? They also have that engine warranty and Jerry has always been great when I've spoken to him.
There are a couple of things that can cause the transmission to drop gear and go into a 'limp' mode. One thing to check is your transmission fluid, if its too high or low when the line pressure goes whack the car will drop out of gear and throw a 'gear implausible code' cant remember the # but its around here if you search for 'transmission fluid problem e55' in google I am sure (google search engine search function seems better than the forum one). Issues with the valvebody or the transmission pump (pump that sits internally in the trans with the torque converter and generates the line pressure for the VB as far as I understand) could potentially cause a gear implausible code but most likely culprit is fluid slightly out.
It can also be tune related as I discovered with my RaceIQ tune. The 'safest' way I found to reproduce the issue was to find a quiet back street or country road somewhere, put the car in first gear and apply as gentle throttle as possible to get the car to hit and 'exceed' redline, you might have to hold it at redline or more or a couple of seconds before it pops out. Feels really unnatural to have the car revved out so far with so little throttle but it should pop out of gear if you have the same tune related issue as I had.
I pretty much feel the exact same way. I’m sure he’s good dude and all, but his responses don’t really seem like someone who cares too much.
I found out about Andrew and Vlad over at Auto Sound Performance In the Bay Area here on the forums and Andrew has recommended eurocharged since day 1.
I’m curious what some of you guys would do and looking for advice. Put my car on the dyno this morning. Weather was perfect. Everything was good to go. And my results were less than impressive.
im not the most knowledgeable about this stuff, but You don’t have to be a scientist to know this graph looks like ****, right? I can’t believe this is the current tune I have on my car.
Should I give the tuner another crack at it, or should I switch to the company that seems to be the most popular on here? I recently had him send me an updated file and as soon as I started the car after I installed the new file the car was running like crap. I didn’t even dare put the thing in drive. Bogging down and idling like crap. Put back on the old tune and everything was back to normal. Since that issue and this dyno graph from this morning I’m having serious doubts about this company.
Not sure if you running meth at all, but if you are, word of caution if you wanting a tune for it, Jerry eurocharged will not tune for it hence wasting your money on the tune and wasting your money on the meth kit. FYI
Not sure if you running meth at all, but if you are, word of caution if you wanting a tune for it, Jerry eurocharged will not tune for it hence wasting your money on the tune and wasting your money on the meth kit. FYI
Not tuned for methanol nor plan on it. Only have it for the cooling.
04-07-2020, 05:01 PM
