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Hello everyone. I recently bought my 04 E55 AMG and it came with a badass sound, which turned out to be a cracked manifold flange causing a huge leak and throwing CEL. I've already removed the manifold and ordered new motor mounts - as that seems to be the most common cause.
I'm going to weld the flange and see how it holds up. I was curious when it comes to re-assembly: would it be easier to put the manifold first, then motor mount, or the other way around? When I was removing stuff, I took out the manifold first, then motor mount. But thinking about it now, maybe it would have been easier to take the motor mount out first, since some of the bottom manifold bolts were tricky to get to.
Second question: with the exhaust out of the car, I'm thinking about doing secondary cat and resonator delete. I can't really get to measuring it right now, but I was wondering if anyone knew what size the piping is. I was thinking to order the stuff as soon as possible.
Is that why the instructions I have say to disconnect the battery for removing the passenger side exhaust manifold? I have a W204 with an exhaust leak at the gasket so im about to start the work. I'd love to know how the bottom nuts are removed since the motor mount is right there on one of them. I cant imagine being able to stick a socket on it.
Is that why the instructions I have say to disconnect the battery for removing the passenger side exhaust manifold? I have a W204 with an exhaust leak at the gasket so im about to start the work. I'd love to know how the bottom nuts are removed since the motor mount is right there on one of them. I cant imagine being able to stick a socket on it.
Yes. A slip can result in serious damage to the modules in your car or to yourself (no jewelry or rings!).
On my '99 E55, I literally had to unbolt the motor mount bracket from the engine block to remove one bolt because I was not aware of the nifty little extension wrench in the photo that Andy supplied above. This may apply to your engine but I cannot confirm yea or nay.
OP, FWIW, I paid a professional welder to repair the broken flanges on my exhaust manifolds. Since the manifolds are made of cast iron, I preferred to leave the welding to someone with experience with cast iron.
Also, stock W211 E55 manifolds are no longer available new. I purchased the last passenger side manifold available in the world...as much as it cost I might have been better off going with long-tube headers.
My w204 the gasket is blown out although the flange part is very rusted. Can see carbon on the engine at that area. I shoved a shop vac hose in the tail pipe and turned it on, could clearly hear the air being sucked in at the manifold in the engine bay. The manifolds look to be stainless of some type and are plentiful on ebay. I bought one for $38 from an Arizona salvage yard and it cleaned up in fantastic condition.
For that one nut at the motor mount I think I should be able to use a long 10mm box end wrench. Ive been spraying the nuts down with PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench for a week now and got some of them loosened already. My fear is snapping a stud then i'd be screwed. I never replaced an exhaust manifold before. Couldnt reach the nuts so bought a cheap borescope and straw extensions for the penetrating oil cans which works great.
Disconnect the power if indeed, I made a tiny arc when I was working there and immediately stopped. I wasnt aware of this. Might also be a good idea to replace the voltage regulator for the alternator while you are in there.
I was about to place aftermarket PLM style headers, but they didnt fit
07-22-2020, 10:32 PM
