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I was on my main road one day when my car got stuck into first gear and I had to ride on 6000rpm for about 10 seconds to find a proper place to break down at, then my trans went into Neutral. I couldn’t get it to move at all would just go into park and neutral. I used STAR and it would say target gear 1, actual gear N. I got a code for the speed sensor so I replaced the conductor plate filled up tranny and still. Actual GEAR N, Target gear 1. Any help please!!!! I’m not really sure what to do
Tow it to a shop that specializes in Mercedes and that has seen this issue before.
Purchase the ATSG 722.6 Transmission Manual while your car is being repaired. Study it. It will take several days to do so.
Find a copy of WIS, purchase, and study the details of the shifter module in the center console. Study it. It will take several more days to do so.
So...possibilities are:
-shifter module failure due to old age or contamination
-shift linkage bushing failure due to old age or the lock nut loosened
-internal 722.6 failure due to old age and wear
-possible brake switch failure
If you received a "hard" code for transmission failure, the transmission will remain in limp mode until the error codes are cleared using STAR. So, clear codes, read the ATSG manual, ensure the shift linkage is set correctly, verify the brake switch using STAR to ensure it is signaling the transmission you applied the brake (or just replace if you don't mind throwing parts and money at the car). Next read the transmission brake and clutch pack values plus fill times, etc, etc.
You've put it in Reverse and once it shows in Neutral and the other time in Park. Once you put it in First (I'm thinking Drive but in manual mode) and it's in Neutral. So, I lean towards the shifter module but those are not cheap so I would troubleshoot more prior to throwing parts and money at the car.
Transmission currently has no codes. I'll see about reading those manuals. I don't have any dash lights that lead to a brake switch failure but its $20 so I'll just buy that anyway. If that doesn't do anything ill inspect the shift linkage and the shifter module. I live in a city that really doesn't have any shops that specialize in Mercedes besides the dealership so I'll try and do my own work until I give up and tow it somewhere.
I couldn't find and diagnostics manuals in the WIS software that leads to my issue so ill just wait for the brake switch and if that doesn't work get the car towed to a shop. If anyone has any other inputs on my situation please let me know!
How did the fluid smell, and look? You have a STAR, so that should give you brake switch data. How about input/turbine shaft rpm, compared to engine rpm? What do you mean by, "it got stuck in first gear"? Did you take off normally, and it refused to upshift? I would take it to the Dealer for at least a diagnosis.
When I changed the fluid it didn't smell much off from regular transmission fluid I am unaware of what burnt transmission fluid smells like but was a light brown. I will have to check the input/turbine shaft rpm tomorrow but I would assume it should be fine because I just replaced the conductor plate because it threw an input/turbine shaft code. It took off normally and refused to upshift.
Update is speed sensor 3 supposed to be showing a value while in park or only in gear. I don’t have a code for a defective speed sensor 3 but it shows no value while in park. See attached picture
This conductor plate brings up a few very interesting points to mention, which is really the primary focus of this article. Because this plate can fail in such a way where it will produces speed sensor or solenoid codes, there has been at times confusion with diagnosing the N2 and N3 speed sensors.
The N2 and N3 speed sensors together act as the Input Shaft Speed Sensor (Figure 8). The N3 speed sensor (solid black) is the most forward speed sensor on the conductor plate. This sensor reads the rotation of the K1 clutch drum inside the transmission (Figure 9). This drum has the front planetary sun gear attached to it and it lugs into the B1 clutch on the pump. What this means is that whenever the B1 clutch is applied it holds this drum stationary. This occurs in Park, Reverse Standard Mode, 1st and 5th gear. In these ranges the N3 rpm reading will be 0.
The N2 is the next sensor back on the conductor plate (silver top) and reads the rotation of the front planetary carrier assembly. This gets driven by the front ring gear attached to the K2 clutch drum and input shaft. This means that anytime the input shaft is in rotation so is the front planetary carrier assembly. The N2 will provide and rpm reading in park and neutral, and all forward and reverse gear movement but will read 0 rpms when in gear with the brakes applied.
FIGURES 7-9
As a side note, the N2 rpm reading in 1st and 5th gear will not be actual input shaft rpm. This is due to the carrier being driven by the input shaft through the internal ring gear, which will slightly reduce the speed of the carrier.
But when the K1 clutch applies, it locks the sun gear to the carrier forcing the entire front planetary assembly to rotate at actual input shaft speed. This occurs in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears and when it does, both the N2 and N3 rpm sensor readings are exactly the same (if the transmission is functioning correctly).
Chrysler has offered a speed/calculation chart that is provided for you in Figure 10 along with the following explanation: Since the N3 is inoperative in reverse standard mode, 1st and 5th gears, it appears that the N3 sensor is redundant and provides no additional information. However, the TCM needs to know input shaft speed. Since the N2 sensor is not directly tied to the Input Shaft, the N3 sensor is required to inform the TCM to divide the N2 value by 0.6081 or 1.0000 to calculate actual input shaft speed.
The chart in Figure 10 confirms the normal operation of the speed sensors, the N3 sensor being at 0 in reverse (S), 1st and 5th gears while the N2 is providing an rpm reading. Then both are the same in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th.
This statement #Chrysler provides in accompaniment with this chart reveals some computer math (strategy). The computer is programmed to divide the 0.6081 value into the N2 rpm reading to obtain a “true” Input Shaft speed in rpm. Once this is calculated, the Output Speed RPM is then used to be divided into the Input Speed to calculate gear ratio.
FIGURES 10-13
Figure 11 is a first gear screen capture at 10mph of a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee which provides the following data:
Turbine (Input) Speed: 1,499 rpm
Input Speed Sensor 1 (N2): 912 rpm
Input Speed Sensor 2 (N3): 0 rpm
Output Speed: 421 rpm
The N2 rpm of 912 is divided by the 0.6081 value equating into an ISS rpm speed of 1499.7533. Round that off to 1500 and divide the output speed rpm reading (421) into this number to calculate the current gear ratio which = 3.56 (first gear ratio). Read about the speed sensors, N2, N3. Also, put it into drive, at idle, with the brakes on, and take another screen shot. Post it up.
Alright that's the same thing I read up on so I assume until the car gets into gear it'll read RPM on speed sensor 2 or N3. I will take another screenshot when it's in drive today but if I remember correctly it's going to show the same stuff as when it's in park because the trans just isn't engaging a gear. Also when I was fiddling with it yesterday I revved the car up when I put it in drive to past 4krpm then STAR says it went into gear but the car still will not move. I can "shift" between 1st and 2nd gear when I do this but no movement at all. I can also get this to happen when I am in reverse also.
And no movement in reverse, I assume? The speed (rpm) indicated in gear, with the brakes on, will indicate a major internal mechanical issue with your transmission.
In gear, with the brakes applied, N2, and Turbine should read 0 Rpm. Check your fluid level, with engine running. Probably took out your input shaft/ front planetary. I'm sure there is more to the story, about how this all happened. I had a customer with a Dodge Magnum hemi. Same 722.6 trans. Same deal. No movement in any gear, but the Turbine was spinning with the brakes applied in gear. The Trans shop said it was grenaded. The owner finally fessed up, and blamed his dog, for kicking it into reverse, while driving down the highway. Also heard of someone forgetting it wasn't stick, and threw the shifter into reverse.
I’m not really sure, it only happened after I was stuck in first gear on a busy road and had to ride at about 6000rpm to get to a safe place and about 100ft before I got to a good place the car just went into neutral.
How much money did you set aside for repairs when you recently bought your E55? I think at this point, you will need either a used Transmission installed, or your old one repaired, at transmission shop.
I set about $4500 or so aside. My guess it is going to cost north of $2000 at a shop. Now my question is should I try and tackle this myself, this is my third car, and my last one I dropped the whole motor out of my 335i. I have never tackled a transmission and I am only 17 so this might be a bit of out my league for someone with my knowledge and age. I also only have jack stands....
If you removed an engine from a BMW you should be able to do the trans in the E55.
You will need to get it up on 4 jack stands as high as possible.
I don’t know if the trans is different from a SC M113k vs a N/A M113. I’m sure someone here knows the answer and that might help you find a trans easier.
Alright, I see what my parents think! I am probably going to take it to a shop first and make sure the transmission is 100% toast before I decide to do the transmission job myself or get someone else to do it.
Thank you all for your help! I really appricate it.
10-10-2020, 06:23 PM
