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a wire was stuck under the engine mount. After that the car was completely fine but I noticed the same wire was a little tight between the alternator and engine block so I drove to my friends house so we can loosen alternator and free the wire even more.
On the way there when I pressed the brakes the esp malfunction light came on for a split second then went away. Also cruise control does not work.(which could be the new rims I put) When we finished freeing up the wire the car cranks but wont start and now it says esp malfunction bas malfunction abs malfunction and brake lights stay on. (we had the battery disconnected while we freed the wire) The car started for a second there but was running really bad. Also the cluster would stay on all the time just like the brake lights, and you can only turn the key once after that it would not let you turn you had to remove it disconnect the battery and plug it back in.
I towed it to a shop and after a couple hours they determined the brake switch was bad so they replaced it and everything was good car started no lights sounded good.
As soon as I get there he turns it off to show me it works and everything starts happening again car wont start all the malfunction lights, brake lights and cluster stays on and the key can only be turned once before you had to go and disconnect the battery.
From the scanner it was not showing much but it kept saying someone about injector 8, I had already left but they called me later saying that when injector 8 is unplugged everything returns to normal and they where pretty sure that injector was causing some type of short to the system, I did not really understand how that can happen.
Anyways today they called and said they had checked all the wires to the injectors the resistance everything and everything is good and it is probably the ecu that is bad. Which is also strange I have never had a problem with it and it goes bad in 5 min while we freed up a wire?
There is no water in that area I always park my car inside when there is a storm coming. Nothing looks as if there was ever water there is what I mean.
They are gonna check out the ecu but to me it seems so weird that it would go bad over 5 min.'
What do you guys think? anything I can advice them to check? Thanks.
The ecu was taken apart and looks to be in good condition no signs of water or anything. They cleaned it up since they already had it out and the car worked fine again for a couple hours until it started doing that stuff again. It might be the some part of the harness since it does it when the car warms up.
The first video is what happened when I got home after a 45 min drive the car just will not start and will show all lights again (in the video it does not for some reason)
The second video is when the car cools down and it starts up fine like nothing happened!!??? This is such a strange problem if anyone can please give some lead of where to look. (the pops are the raceiq tune)
The second video was actually recorded right after the first one I was trying to make it show all the warning lights but it decided to start.
Mechanic wants to remove supercharger to check wires but this thread seems similar and we have not checked this module even though there are no codes from it
May or may not help, but I'm removing my SC next week to replace the wire harness. I don't have an issue like yours, mine is with voltage fluctuations to the throttle body, but it appears this may be the issue despite harness failures not being too common.
That said - I have on maybe 3 or 4 occasions over the last year gotten a fast, healthy crank with no start like your first video, then the car fired off fine after that. I never had any dash lights staying on or codes, so it could be a complete coincidence, but I'll know soon if the harness fixes things. The thing to be aware of that another member pointed out - the main part of the harness that sits in the valley under the SC is pretty protected with rubber, so to get in and look at those wires for corrosion you're likely going to destroy the integrity of the harness and need a new one anyway. Mine was about $500 from the dealer.
This may seem obvious, but I didn't see anyone else ask - they've checked ALL the fuses (especially the 2 or 3 for the ECM) and made sure grounding points and wires are all solid? Worth tossing in new fuses for at least the ECM ones as I've heard sometimes ones that look good can still cause enough of a drop to wreak havoc w/ the ECM.
May or may not help, but I'm removing my SC next week to replace the wire harness. I don't have an issue like yours, mine is with voltage fluctuations to the throttle body, but it appears this may be the issue despite harness failures not being too common.
That said - I have on maybe 3 or 4 occasions over the last year gotten a fast, healthy crank with no start like your first video, then the car fired off fine after that. I never had any dash lights staying on or codes, so it could be a complete coincidence, but I'll know soon if the harness fixes things. The thing to be aware of that another member pointed out - the main part of the harness that sits in the valley under the SC is pretty protected with rubber, so to get in and look at those wires for corrosion you're likely going to destroy the integrity of the harness and need a new one anyway. Mine was about $500 from the dealer.
This may seem obvious, but I didn't see anyone else ask - they've checked ALL the fuses (especially the 2 or 3 for the ECM) and made sure grounding points and wires are all solid? Worth tossing in new fuses for at least the ECM ones as I've heard sometimes ones that look good can still cause enough of a drop to wreak havoc w/ the ECM.
Best of luck!
Well talking about removing supercharger.. my mechanic did he said it was necessary, from the back of the engine he could see bear wires and he said only way to know for sure is to remove it so he did. One of the pictures shows how the wires where when he removed it not fully exposed but no protection around them and the other pictures of when he put protection back on them. All the ground points are solid thats the first thing he did and he got a testing from one side to other side one by one testing them out. As I said before the problem only happens when the engine gets really hot if you drive it a little bit it wont be enough I had to drive it 40 miles for it to do the problems so maybe its those wires in the picture that where kinda exposed?
Also my throttle body sometimes goes crazy like opens and closes really fast for a couple seconds so it may be the same problem as yours.
Yeah that's odd there isn't covering on those wires, those are the wires to the bypass valve and the throttle body. The weird flutter is normal if the key is on and the engine not running, it will flutter around the 20-30 second mark after keying on because it's learning the stops. My issue was the TPS value spiking to 100% (voltage) randomly, but apparently the flutter (which at first I thought was abnormal since it didn't open all the way unlike the bypass valve) is normal, another member with a perfect running car ran the same test and saw the same thing.
Yeah that's odd there isn't covering on those wires, those are the wires to the bypass valve and the throttle body. The weird flutter is normal if the key is on and the engine not running, it will flutter around the 20-30 second mark after keying on because it's learning the stops. My issue was the TPS value spiking to 100% (voltage) randomly, but apparently the flutter (which at first I thought was abnormal since it didn't open all the way unlike the bypass valve) is normal, another member with a perfect running car ran the same test and saw the same thing.
Yeah no, mine would go crazy if the car was on with key turned all the way just super fast opening and closing like crazy. I just really hope these wires where the problem which I don't think but the mechanic insisted in removing the supercharger to check. No other module have faults thats the thing too.
I had a similar issue that started after disconnecting the battery. Bas, esp, abs lights, taillights stuck on and car wouldn’t shut off with key.
Under the passenger side carpet near the seat there is a can distribution block, it’s where the communication wires all meet. I unplugged them one at a time and my issue went away with one of them unplugged narrowing down where the issue was coming from. Then one day the problem went away and never came back 3 years running.
This is where I would start, there is also another distribution block under driver side of dash by obd port
I had a similar issue that started after disconnecting the battery. Bas, esp, abs lights, taillights stuck on and car wouldn’t shut off with key.
Under the passenger side carpet near the seat there is a can distribution block, it’s where the communication wires all meet. I unplugged them one at a time and my issue went away with one of them unplugged narrowing down where the issue was coming from. Then one day the problem went away and never came back 3 years running.
This is where I would start, there is also another distribution block under driver side of dash by obd port
Did you get any codes on star or xentry for that block under the seat? Because the problem with mine is there are no codes so anything the tech tries is based on what we think could be the problem.
The block you talk about doesn't happen to be in the passenger foot well right?
Did you get any codes on star or xentry for that block under the seat? Because the problem with mine is there are no codes so anything the tech tries is based on what we think could be the problem.
The block you talk about doesn't happen to be in the passenger foot well right?
there was no codes for it, it is not a module. They are brown wires in twisted pairs. It is further back, towards the seat
11-21-2020, 02:27 PM
