Please help!!! Car smoking, stalls and stumble missfires
#1
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Thread Starter
Please help!!! Car smoking, stalls and stumble missfires
I own a e55 amg. Today I come back from a car meet and park the car. Car was running perfect nothing wrong. I come out and fix my leaky methonal injection. Fixed. Start the car just straight smoke. Doesn’t smell like oil or coolant. Doesn’t have that sweet smell. Just smells like normal exhaust. Rev the car up and clouds of smoke, it disappears quickly but CLOUDS. Let it idle for a little snd warm up to go for a drive. Go down the road and missfires. Go home rev it up and the car stalls. Try and start it snd it has a really hard time starting but starts. Idles fine makes some popping sounds which is not normal when warm for my car. AFR shows around 12.5/13.5 it jumps around. I need some serious help.
codes for missfires on Cylinder 5,6,7,8 this is the bank my afr gauge is setup on.
Please if anyone can chime in and help it would be amazing
smoke is coming out of both exhaust btw but I have an xpipe
codes for missfires on Cylinder 5,6,7,8 this is the bank my afr gauge is setup on.
Please if anyone can chime in and help it would be amazing
smoke is coming out of both exhaust btw but I have an xpipe
#2
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I own a e55 amg. Today I come back from a car meet and park the car. Car was running perfect nothing wrong. I come out and fix my leaky methonal injection. Fixed. Start the car just straight smoke. Doesn’t smell like oil or coolant. Doesn’t have that sweet smell. Just smells like normal exhaust. Rev the car up and clouds of smoke, it disappears quickly but CLOUDS. Let it idle for a little snd warm up to go for a drive. Go down the road and missfires. Go home rev it up and the car stalls. Try and start it snd it has a really hard time starting but starts. Idles fine makes some popping sounds which is not normal when warm for my car. AFR shows around 12.5/13.5 it jumps around. I need some serious help.
codes for missfires on Cylinder 5,6,7,8 this is the bank my afr gauge is setup on.
Please if anyone can chime in and help it would be amazing
smoke is coming out of both exhaust btw but I have an xpipe
codes for missfires on Cylinder 5,6,7,8 this is the bank my afr gauge is setup on.
Please if anyone can chime in and help it would be amazing
smoke is coming out of both exhaust btw but I have an xpipe
#3
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Thread Starter
Im positive, I thought the same thing so I disconnected the controller. Same issue. Disconnected the line to the meth injector and same issue. Meth controller was plugged in when I disconnected the line and started it and wasn’t spraying fluid everywhere also.
#4
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So I just got home and took the oil cap off and worst nightmare. Milkey oil.
Time for a head gasket repair on my driver side cylinders. Anyone got a thread or anything that can help me do this repair?
Time for a head gasket repair on my driver side cylinders. Anyone got a thread or anything that can help me do this repair?
#5
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That was my first guess. Google testing for blown head gasket. Just to make sure there are a few tests. Its better than bad rings or bad vales etc..
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#8
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Saw that forum post. I had that video from XF motorsports pulled up and watched it even before my head gasket blew. I am gonna use that video for reference to disassemble! Thank you for the help man.
#9
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Okay got the Supercharger off and there was a **** LOAD of water/meth sitting in the supercharger intercooler, guessing the water meth was somehow getting siphoned or something because it was def not injecting when I had the car idling. Bought a water meth solenoid. Going to change the oil get all the milky oil out and slap the supercharger back on and see how it runs.
#10
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Okay got the Supercharger off and there was a **** LOAD of water/meth sitting in the supercharger intercooler, guessing the water meth was somehow getting siphoned or something because it was def not injecting when I had the car idling. Bought a water meth solenoid. Going to change the oil get all the milky oil out and slap the supercharger back on and see how it runs.
good luck. Let’s hope it runs well no issues after the oil change. Possibly dodged a bullet
#11
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I was going to say before that if the clouds of smoke dissapear quickly, its water and possibly with a leaking meth system you filled the exhaust with fluid and it was burning off. I know when anti freeze fills the cats it takes a LONG time to burn it all off.
Also it should have not got past the rings like that to fill the crankcase with oil. You may have hydro locked the cylinders a little and pushed the head gasket so let's hope that that is not the case !!
Also it should have not got past the rings like that to fill the crankcase with oil. You may have hydro locked the cylinders a little and pushed the head gasket so let's hope that that is not the case !!
#12
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I am hoping, It definitely got past the rings cause it was a milky mess. I didn't run it for long no more than 2 mins of running. Just going to wait till my oil change kit comes in and solenoid and see if that will help.
#13
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If that's the case you will need more than one....at least 2-3 oil changes to clean everything out and get that oil nice and clean.
And make sure the engine gets nice and hot between oil changes.
And make sure the engine gets nice and hot between oil changes.
#15
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Run something thin like 0-30 so the oil gets everywhere real good. The engine needs a real good cleaning, that goo gets stuck everywhere, and nice and hot so it will clean everything out to be confident for the future with it.
Been down this road before with shop cars.
Been down this road before with shop cars.
Last edited by SICAMG; 01-18-2021 at 09:14 AM.
#16
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Do you think 5w 30 would be fine as well? I can get 5qt for $11 locally 0w-30 is a lot more expensive.
#17
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Sure why not. But seriously if the price difference between 5-30 and 0-30 is a concern look at it this way. Your engine rebuild would be thousands to do and if $10 bucks is an issue, you better sell her and pick up something cheaper. Not trying to break ***** just saying.
Any how change the oil, let it run in the drive way for a 1/2 hour or so until nice and hot.
Change it and it should look better than the first drain.
Drive it around for the day with the second oil change and it should look much much better when drained this time.
Than change and put in the good stuff.
Any how change the oil, let it run in the drive way for a 1/2 hour or so until nice and hot.
Change it and it should look better than the first drain.
Drive it around for the day with the second oil change and it should look much much better when drained this time.
Than change and put in the good stuff.
#20
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Thread Starter
Sure why not. But seriously if the price difference between 5-30 and 0-30 is a concern look at it this way. Your engine rebuild would be thousands to do and if $10 bucks is an issue, you better sell her and pick up something cheaper. Not trying to break ***** just saying.
Any how change the oil, let it run in the drive way for a 1/2 hour or so until nice and hot.
Change it and it should look better than the first drain.
Drive it around for the day with the second oil change and it should look much much better when drained this time.
Than change and put in the good stuff.
Any how change the oil, let it run in the drive way for a 1/2 hour or so until nice and hot.
Change it and it should look better than the first drain.
Drive it around for the day with the second oil change and it should look much much better when drained this time.
Than change and put in the good stuff.
I will see about doing this at a shop after I try all this as I don't own the tool. The coolant level for the car hasn't changed so I really don't suspect a head gasket. Was about 1/4th gallon of water/methanol maybe more just sitting in the Supercharger when I pulled it off. The car was fine until I fixed the leaking water methanal then all this occurred.
Pushing towards it got siphoned into the car somehow not even sure.
#21
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Just checked one more thing. Before all this started to happen I filled my water-methanol tank to full. Just filled it up with 3/4gal. Car sucked in almost a gallon of water-methanol for sure.
#22
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This place is a joke.
Let this be a lesson. I removed the DevilsOwn meth system from my car a couple years ago. It did drop my IAT's about 30F, but never did prove any performance increase. Luckily I caught the failure in time- a rough idle and misfires.The meth/water was being sucked into the intake at idle and cruising speeds under vacuum. A solenoid will not help you. All it takes is one small piece of debris- in this case it was a flake of rust from the stainless lines that weren't stainless inside the crimps- to keep the solenoid from sealing. I also found out my check valve was blocked open in the same way. I disconnected and blocked off everything and let the car idle for an hour, and then drove real easy to let all the water inside the intercooler housing evaporate. Another side effect- the corrosive meth/water made my spark plugs extremely difficult to remove. I'm lucky the m113k heads are robust, as I was sure the threads would come out with the plugs. I used penetrating oil and back and forth motions to ease out the plugs. I was sweating in fear the entire time, as the plugs screeched and the ratchet jittered. You could see the corrosion on the threads once I got them out. I've changed hundreds of plugs on m112 and m113 engines and never had this problem. You have been warned.
#23
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
+1 on E55GreaseMonkey's experience. I had the same issue with meth/water injection when I was running a turbo Miata. Soured me on the idea of meth/water injection on a daily driver.
#24
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Thread Starter
Let this be a lesson. I removed the DevilsOwn meth system from my car a couple years ago. It did drop my IAT's about 30F, but never did prove any performance increase. Luckily I caught the failure in time- a rough idle and misfires.The meth/water was being sucked into the intake at idle and cruising speeds under vacuum. A solenoid will not help you. All it takes is one small piece of debris- in this case it was a flake of rust from the stainless lines that weren't stainless inside the crimps- to keep the solenoid from sealing. I also found out my check valve was blocked open in the same way. I disconnected and blocked off everything and let the car idle for an hour, and then drove real easy to let all the water inside the intercooler housing evaporate. Another side effect- the corrosive meth/water made my spark plugs extremely difficult to remove. I'm lucky the m113k heads are robust, as I was sure the threads would come out with the plugs. I used penetrating oil and back and forth motions to ease out the plugs. I was sweating in fear the entire time, as the plugs screeched and the ratchet jittered. You could see the corrosion on the threads once I got them out. I've changed hundreds of plugs on m112 and m113 engines and never had this problem. You have been warned.