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Hi guys I did a rebuild on my m156 about 5 days ago myself since local shop were asking 4-5k for just labor without parts. And I must say no one will do a better job on your car than yourself . I’m located in mass and
ig@ dailydrivenv8 Dirt from fan Stock heads on my 07 w211 e63 with 141k miles. Cleaned Timing chain guard are fragile because when taking off the heads and mounting it back on to avoid chipping the plastic piece on the guard Cleaned all valves Piston cleaned with WD-40 and scotch sponge My YouTube is @dailydrivenv8 Give me a follow I want to start putting more contents out there since I enjoy working on my car 🙏🏾👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾 And check out my YouTube or ig for video content on it 🙏🏾
rebuild means, new piston rings in most cases. if that means you have to overbore 0.10 or 0.20 over as well, then so be it. for the M156 we cannot overbore, so if your bore is worn out you'll need a replacement block or sleeves installed as we do not have easy access to shops that can reapply the twin arc spray liner.
I've just sent my intake to be rebuilt a second time, if my car could fit in my bike filled garage I would def be going down this route.
Glad to see you took it on yourself!
I was looking to have my intake rebuilt through RMT(they sell the intake center plate) but they no longer do this service I was told due to the connection with a vendor or related… my question where did you have your intake rebuilt and how much did it cost? Thanks
I used RMT they do a great job and replace any sensors that are broken when you send it in. I think it was about 700/750.
Only gripe is they painted my manifold, tell them not to paint yours if it's in good shape. Mine was perfect, now it's an odd grey that I am not a big fan of.
When I pulled my Intake back in 2017, just days after I took possession, I did so due to idle revving up to 1200+. ( I also pulled both heads at the time and had them rebuilt by Xtreme Heads in Palm City, Fl-Highly Recommended!). I have RMT about a 45min drive for me in Ft. Lauderdale so it was a no brainer! They even swapped out my decrepit top-side with another fresh one with posts to hold the air line! And they installed their beefy Throttle Body Plate and replaced a front air line fitting I had broken during removal! I had provided them whatever new items I had pre-purchased like the air hose as well as some of the other rubber bits up front, but they were all unnecessary as they aren’t put on until reassembly anyway! Nevertheless, they did a fine job! And the color was right on too! The Master Builder Badge I epoxied to it is still there too!! I was so impressed with them that when I went to pick it up, I brought down both my front AirSprings and they rebuilt them too. That was 3 years ago.
Recently during my current marathon rebuild of the rear end starting with the Rear Main, after dropping my subframe to swap out all things bushings related, I also decided to have RMT rebuild those AirSprings too. When I went to install them, one of them had a funky shape to it, so I brought it back and they tended to it immediately! Granted, I had to go back home and return, but the point is that they stand by their work! In fact, after finishing up the rear end, I ended up moving back to the front to replace the leaking Radiator as well as the A/C Condenser and the Compressor. While up front, I noticed that my front driver AirSpring, which was rebuilt 3 years prior but with only maybe 6k miles between stints, was leaking oil from the booty. I took it out and brought it to them and one of the owners sons immediately balanced it upside down on the table and took out wire cutters to expose the inner area that holds the hydraulic fluid. He explained that once it starts leaking, there nothing they could due to “repair” it”. When I asked if I could buy another one, he immediately said, as if I misunderstood, that they would simply replace it with another one in good working condition!!! Needless to say I a huge fan of Rebuild Master Tech (RMT)!!!
I might add to say nice build and congratulations on having the ba_ _s to do it by yourself! I see you replaced the Air Pipe on the front of the engine under the Thermostat too! I didn’t catch that when I took off both Heads and had to do so shortly after noticing oil buildup in that area. I couldn’t help but notice that the front of your engine in that first pic was pretty soaked with oil! It looks like it may have been a combination of leaking valve covers, that front pipe and perhaps even the lower front oil pan? Did you go that far as to lower the front subframe to redo that big gasket! I understand that there’s a very worthwhile MOD having to do with the Oil Pickup pipe (Hackroku?? Maybe) that if overlooked can lead to a blown engine!! I didn’t get that far either but that’s most likely going to be my next “repair” as I definitely could see some seepage from that lower front pan. I have a replacement Timing Chain & Guide Rails and Oil Pump Chain and Rails in a box just waiting to be installed.
I also noticed the nice work of cleaning the top of those gorgeous pistons! May I ask what your method was? After feebly attempting to clean up with lessor strength cleaning agents, I ended up going with Acetone soaked shop towels used at the end of several of those plastic body trim levers, so as not to make a nasty scratch! It took a long while, but rendered very similar results!
I can’t help but mention it would have been a perfect time to install a catch can while you had the intake and passenger Head Off. Did you replace the Valve Tappets while you were at it? I shelled out the extra coin for the SLS Blacks and only wish I had the the coin at the time to get those sweet aftermarket Cam Adjuster Plates and barrel pins. If you read about my eye opening realization in any of my posts regarding the fact that my CA’s were taken apart and put together incorrectly rendering them functionally inoperable and then, as if that wasn’t enough shoddy mechanic work, the Exhaust CA was put on the Intake side and visa-versa, you would have been sure to double check your serial numbers upon reinstall, just to be sure! Yowza! I’m assuming that you replaced the Headbolts since you took a pic of the old ones. That was my main preventative reason for removing both Heads. It turns out that due to the Cam Adjuster issue just mentioned, this most likely was the cause for 8 of 16 of my Intake Valves being bent! I never would have known that had it not been for removing the heads and having them rebuilt by some real pro’s (shout out to Xtreme Heads of Palm City, Fl!!).
As I said, I subjected myself to that torture because the idle was revving 1200 rpm by the time I got home after taking possession? Or maybe your referring to the originator of this thread? Of course it didn’t present during the test drive and because of the fact there was a smiley face gouge from mirror to mirror in front of the emblem on the hood, I had arranged to pick it up from the body shop that corrected those ridiculous blemishes! It was only during that drive home that it became clear to me that there was an underlying problem with the engine! As I tried to come to a stop, for example, since the idle was getting higher the hotter the engine was getting, downshifting was effected to the extent that what normally would have been a smooth downshift instead was an abrupt forced shift because while the the idle was high, the ECU sensed NO Slowdown and therefore remained in gear, that is until a hit the paddle shift for the first time! Then it was clear there was problem as it very abruptly shifted into a lower gear.
So when I got home, I literally started to take it apart to see what was going on! Sure, by then I had subscribed to this forum and had read about the Headbolt Issue that effects these cars, but after removing the Intake Manifold, I saw the piled up Carbon on the Intake Runners and briefly thought about using walnut shells to clean it, but scrapped that idea for doing it right and BOY was I glad I did so! Otherwise I would never have realized 8 of 16 Intake Valves were bent nor would I have figured out that whatever idiot mechanic worked on it before me had removed the Cam Adjusters on the Passenger Side, taken them haphazardly apart and put them back together the only WRONG way one can and, if that wasn’t obscene enough, then they installed them on the wrong Cams! Yeah, they installed the Exhaust Cam Adjuster on the Intake Cam and Visa-Versa! This, in itself, caused for the CA’s to be not only rendered inoperable due to the insides being installed backwards such that the pin, which controls Oil Intake governing the delay/retard of the CA, instead of being on the front side opposite the Sensor was on the back side! Moreover, because both sides of that interior casing are NOT symmetrical, the front side now facing the Cam Shaft isn’t wide enough in order for the Diamond Washer at the end of the CamShaft to seat properly against the CA! This means that the Cam Shaft, being too wide for that round indented side that normally would be on the front through which the bolt would go through, was itself wobbling against the the CA that, if not for the Cam Gear below it, would have wobbled itself to complete destruction! And because the Diamond washer was not seated, that meant it didn’t line up perfectly with the Cam Gear below as it was merely hanging on by a thread! It was only being held on the by the shear force of the bolt haphazardly sandwiching the CA up against the CamShafts outer ring end and being supported by the misaligned gear below! It’s no wonder 8 of 16 Intake Valves were bent in retrospect! Not to mention the timing was most likely way off? It wasn’t until my rebuild that I had the proper Timing Tools, so I can’t be certain, but if that Diamond washer wasn’t seated and 8 of 16 Valves were bent, it’s not a long stretch to assume so!
While the Heads were off, I rebuilt the entire front suspension, engine mounts, installed VRP Shorty Headers, had the Airmatic Struts rebuilt by the same guys that rebuilt the Intake Manifold (RMT), replaced the P/S Pump and removed the HP PS Pressure Hose and brought it to one of those places that repair all things related to hoses (Think Firehouses and other hydrolic hoses) only to find out there impression of the hose on my Steering Rack was of very low quality! They showed me what mine was in comparison with what they were putting on and clearly there was a difference in the beefiness of the hose!!! Needless to say, I’ve not had an issue since albeit I’ve not really gone too far since my 2nd phase of build which comprised all of the rear suspension starting with the Rear Main Seal and ending with a 3.06 Differential Gear Swap from a 07-09 Charger SRT8 (also made by Daimler!) and every single bushing in between!
I might add to say nice build and congratulations on having the ba_ _s to do it by yourself! I see you replaced the Air Pipe on the front of the engine under the Thermostat too! I didn’t catch that when I took off both Heads and had to do so shortly after noticing oil buildup in that area. I couldn’t help but notice that the front of your engine in that first pic was pretty soaked with oil! It looks like it may have been a combination of leaking valve covers, that front pipe and perhaps even the lower front oil pan? Did you go that far as to lower the front subframe to redo that big gasket! I understand that there’s a very worthwhile MOD having to do with the Oil Pickup pipe (Hairiku?? Maybe) that if overlooked can lead to a blown engine!! I didn’t get that far either but that’s most likely going to be my next “repair” as I definitely could see some seepage from that lower front pan. I have a replacement Timing Chain & Guide Rails and Oil Pump Chain and Rails in a box just waiting to be installed.
I also noticed the nice work of cleaning the top of those gorgeous pistons! May I ask what your method was? After feebly attempting to clean up with lessor strength cleaning agents, I ended up going with Acetone soaked shop towels used at the end of several of those plastic body trim levers, so as not to make a nasty scratch! It took a long while, but rendered very similar results!
I can’t help but mention it would have been a perfect time to install a catch can while you had the intake and passenger Head Off. Did you replace the Valve Tappets while you were at it? I shelled out the extra coin for the SLS Blacks and only wish I had the the coin at the time to get those sweet aftermarket Cam Adjuster Plates and barrel pins. If you read about my eye opening realization in any of my posts regarding the fact that my CA’s were taken apart and put together incorrectly rendering them functionally inoperable and then, as if that wasn’t enough shoddy mechanic work, the Exhaust CA was put on the Intake side and visa-versa, you would have been sure to double check your serial numbers upon reinstall, just to be sure! Yowza! I’m assuming that you replaced the Headbolts since you took a pic of the old ones. That was my main preventative reason for removing both Heads. It turns out that due to the Cam Adjuster issue just mentioned, this most likely was the cause for 8 of 16 of my Intake Valves being bent! I never would have known that had it not been for removing the heads and having them rebuilt by some real pro’s (shout out to Xtreme Heads of Palm City, Fl!!).
i have one e63 change the sls intake , and 82mm throttle, but have not much space to put the original air box, so change to use another air filter, and when all install done ,go to dyno, ,cant raise the hp up, and shoi the air flow sensor have problem, and the rpm just stop around 4500 ,so because the air flow sensor, the garage change to put it frorn of throttle about 5-7 cm , This may cause the Airflow backflush? So that sensors cant read the correct number, also lead to the rpm cant go 5000 up, ,so want to ask u where u put the sir flow sensor,
i have one e63 change the sls intake , and 82mm throttle, but have not much space to put the original air box, so change to use another air filter, and when all install done ,go to dyno, ,cant raise the hp up, and shoi the air flow sensor have problem, and the rpm just stop around 4500 ,so because the air flow sensor, the garage change to put it frorn of throttle about 5-7 cm , This may cause the Airflow backflush? So that sensors cant read the correct number, also lead to the rpm cant go 5000 up, ,so want to ask u where u put the sir flow sensor,
If youve changed the diameter or the maf housings they need to be rescaled in the software. They can be placed anywhere in the SEALED intake tract, and should allow the air to flow straight over the sensor. The straight run should be 4-6in with your maf sensors located in the middle. Making sure the maf sensors are sealed 100% after the sensor is crucial as well as properly rescaling the maf curves. The throttle will also most likely need adjustment in the file as well
Last edited by X2jones3x; Jul 2, 2022 at 09:12 PM.
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