W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Alternator @ 14.1V but battery not charging

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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 08:30 PM
  #1  
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W211 E63
Alternator @ 14.1V but battery not charging

Hi all,

I would really appreciate some advice please:

W211 E63
Recently replaced the battery with a Delkor AGM. When I charge it using a CTEK charger it charges to 12.9V;
With engine running the alternator shows 14.1V on the dash as well as at the battery terminals as measured with a multimeter; but
After a series of long drives the battery voltage drops to 12.2-12.6 after the engine has been off for a few minutes.

Is it possible that the alternator is providing sufficient voltage but not sufficient amperage to charge the battery properly? Could it be a voltage regulator fault which is causing this?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 04:32 PM
  #2  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
paradox: discharged by driving...

you have the situation described well: ALT is charging but battery ends up discharged.

ALT voltage is variable based on needs of battery and heavy consumers (A/C, headlights, Defrost..).

You can get just about every voltage North of 12.6V and consider that normal... but if ALT output deeps below 12.5v then it is clearly taping your main AGM charge.

Have you see your car voltage come near 12.3v on the freeway ??

What range of charging current is you dash reporting ??

Can you get 14.x at idle rpm?
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 07:29 PM
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W211 E63
Thanks. Yes it gets to 14.1V within 10 seconds of start-up and stays there +/- .2V the whole time. When I measured at the battery with a multimeter at idle it was also 14.1V so it doesn't appear to be a voltage issue, or a voltage drop issue between the alternator and the battery. THis made me wonder if a faulty voltage regulator could still output sufficient voltage without sufficient amperage?
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 08:07 PM
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
new battery getting discharged by long drives...

Originally Posted by Aussie Eddie
Thanks. Yes it gets to 14.1V within 10 seconds of start-up and stays there +/- .2V the whole time. When I measured at the battery with a multimeter at idle it was also 14.1V so it doesn't appear to be a voltage issue, or a voltage drop issue between the alternator and the battery. THis made me wonder if a faulty voltage regulator could still output sufficient voltage without sufficient amperage?
nothing regulates or limit the AMPS !
Only voltage is regulated and the ALT will supply as much current as needed up to ~150A peak around 2000Rpm.

A 14.1v output at idle means the ALT brushes are not too short to feed the rotor winding.... good.

the way you say that long drive drain your battery makes me question what happen to car voltage after driving over an hour?
Does your car voltage swings down below 12.3 or stays above 12.6v ? Pay attention to voltage on longer drives.
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 07:26 AM
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2005 e55 AMG
Originally Posted by Aussie Eddie
Hi all,

I would really appreciate some advice please:

W211 E63
Recently replaced the battery with a Delkor AGM. When I charge it using a CTEK charger it charges to 12.9V;
With engine running the alternator shows 14.1V on the dash as well as at the battery terminals as measured with a multimeter; but
After a series of long drives the battery voltage drops to 12.2-12.6 after the engine has been off for a few minutes.

Is it possible that the alternator is providing sufficient voltage but not sufficient amperage to charge the battery properly? Could it be a voltage regulator fault which is causing this?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
There is nothing wrong with your car.....what you discribe is normal characteristics. You state that it charges normally when driving and then when "OFF" voltage drops and returns to battery charged voltage ...12.1-12.6 is normal.
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 07:59 AM
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W211 E63
Originally Posted by SICAMG
There is nothing wrong with your car.....what you discribe is normal characteristics. You state that it charges normally when driving and then when "OFF" voltage drops and returns to battery charged voltage ...12.1-12.6 is normal.
Thanks for the comment. 12.6V wouldn't worry me but 12.2V on an AGM indicates ~40% discharge. I've read that the alternator will not generally get the battery at maximum voltage (only a charger will do that) but the drain on this one vs max capacity is far greater than on other vehicles I own.
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 08:32 AM
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2005 e55 AMG
You are correct but remember these cars are not like others/ brands. They draw a lot when sitting. I just checked mine and it is sitting right at 12.3 volts.
Keep an eye on it each time you park it for a while but i think you will be safe.
Also every battery could be a tenth or so off when charged.
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Old Jun 16, 2021 | 08:34 AM
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W211 E63
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
nothing regulates or limit the AMPS !
Only voltage is regulated and the ALT will supply as much current as needed up to ~150A peak around 2000Rpm.

A 14.1v output at idle means the ALT brushes are not too short to feed the rotor winding.... good.

the way you say that long drive drain your battery makes me question what happen to car voltage after driving over an hour?
Does your car voltage swings down below 12.3 or stays above 12.6v ? Pay attention to voltage on longer drives.
I will keep looking on longer drives but certainly have not seen it drop below 13.9 before. Reading SICAMG's comments it doesn't seem to just be me...I've never had a vehicle before where the normal state of battery charge is so much lower than maximum. Oh well I guess I will just keep using my CTEK regularly.
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Old Jun 16, 2021 | 09:32 AM
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
If you are not getting load shedding when you are driving or when you cold start the engine, then I don't know that I'd be chasing any issue at all. All of my issues of this kind were resolved when I replaced the old OEM battery.
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 06:54 AM
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These cars and most Mercedes just love a well charged / healthy battery. Every three years 3 C300's in my family plus my 55 get a new battery.
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
There is nothing wrong with your car.....what you discribe is normal characteristics. You state that it charges normally when driving and then when "OFF" voltage drops and returns to battery charged voltage ...12.1-12.6 is normal.
A reading of 12.65-12.77 volts means your battery has a full charge. 12.45-12.54 volts means you have a 75% charge, 12.24-12.29 is 50% charged, and 11.99-12.06 volts is 25% charged. 11.75-11.89 volts means your battery is dead.

Originally Posted by Aussie Eddie
I will keep looking on longer drives but certainly have not seen it drop below 13.9 before. Reading SICAMG's comments it doesn't seem to just be me...I've never had a vehicle before where the normal state of battery charge is so much lower than maximum. Oh well I guess I will just keep using my CTEK regularly.
It's hard to pull a real reading off the battery after the car goes to "sleep" in 15 minutes. I leave my trunk open, and disconnect the trunk light, then shut off the car to pull a "real voltage" the next morning. It's usually 12.5~ the next day, which is more or less charged.

If your battery is showing 12.1-12.2 volts, it's very discharged. Period.
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Old Jun 18, 2021 | 09:00 PM
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You are correct. But I am looking at voltage when the car sits say over night or so and meter to meter will be a little off. So your 12.5 is pretty close to my 12.6 number but again meter to meter is never exact.
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Old Jun 19, 2021 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
There is nothing wrong with your car.....what you discribe is normal characteristics. You state that it charges normally when driving and then when "OFF" voltage drops and returns to battery charged voltage ...12.1-12.6 is normal.
Originally Posted by SICAMG
You are correct but remember these cars are not like others/ brands. They draw a lot when sitting. I just checked mine and it is sitting right at 12.3 volts.
Keep an eye on it each time you park it for a while but i think you will be safe.
Also every battery could be a tenth or so off when charged.
Originally Posted by SICAMG
You are correct. But I am looking at voltage when the car sits say over night or so and meter to meter will be a little off. So your 12.5 is pretty close to my 12.6 number but again meter to meter is never exact.

There's a big difference between 12.1, 12.3, and 12.5 in terms of voltage. My meter is exact. We're not talking 12.51 vs 12.50. Less than 12.50, in my opinion, is very discharged. I'm not even happy about 12.50, but there's a certain amount of drain before the car actually "sleeps" and my Bosch battery is about 3.5 years old at this point.
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Old Jun 19, 2021 | 01:36 PM
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That's the thing. You can't really check state of charge unless the battery has no load. If there is a load, it will pull down the voltage lower than the true resting SoC reading. Obviously a load big enough to pull down the battery to 12.2 resting voltage means there is a draw. But you really should let the car sit overnight and check in the morning. Leave the trunk open so you don't wake it up to access the battery. That will be the closest to resting voltage UNLESS there is a significant draw.
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Old Jun 20, 2021 | 09:19 AM
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I better stick to the simple stuff like transmissions and engines. My electrical skills have always been a struggle LOL
Every time I diagnose an electrical problem I consider it a Christmas miracle ! LOL
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Old Jun 20, 2021 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by kevm14
That's the thing. You can't really check state of charge unless the battery has no load. If there is a load, it will pull down the voltage lower than the true resting SoC reading. Obviously a load big enough to pull down the battery to 12.2 resting voltage means there is a draw. But you really should let the car sit overnight and check in the morning. Leave the trunk open so you don't wake it up to access the battery. That will be the closest to resting voltage UNLESS there is a significant draw.
Originally Posted by SICAMG
I better stick to the simple stuff like transmissions and engines. My electrical skills have always been a struggle LOL
Every time I diagnose an electrical problem I consider it a Christmas miracle ! LOL
If I want a real voltage on my car I do the following:I pull out the light in my trunk and disconnect it, drive the car, leave the trunk open, shut the car off, lock it with the remote so it goes to sleep faster and then check it the next day without opening the car, or touching anything but the battery connectors. Then you get a real voltage.

I understand what SICAMG is saying about the voltage showing 12.1-12.5~ , but if you're checking a battery the way I described above it should be damn close to 12.6. Otherwise I'd say the battery is bad, the battery is made by Interstate and it's garbage, or you have a draw.
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Old Sep 12, 2021 | 10:29 AM
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W211 E280
What was causing this, I have the same issue

Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
you have the situation described well: ALT is charging but battery ends up discharged.

ALT voltage is variable based on needs of battery and heavy consumers (A/C, headlights, Defrost..).

You can get just about every voltage North of 12.6V and consider that normal... but if ALT output deeps below 12.5v then it is clearly taping your main AGM charge.

Have you see your car voltage come near 12.3v on the freeway ??

What range of charging current is you dash reporting ??

Can you get 14.x at idle rpm?

I am facing the same issue.
Reply
Old Sep 13, 2021 | 08:27 AM
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W211 E63
Originally Posted by Zap Auto
I am facing the same issue.
I've taken to regular charging with a C-tek to keep it topped up; not fixed the problem but hopefully prevents long term battery issues.
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Old Sep 13, 2021 | 11:23 AM
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W211 E280
I found the problem, its the Gateway module issue

Originally Posted by Aussie Eddie
I've taken to regular charging with a C-tek to keep it topped up; not fixed the problem but hopefully prevents long term battery issues.
I Found out the problem, the Gateway is an issue and its right under your steering wheel. The condenced water from the right went hose drops water onto the Gateway module. Just remove the gateway and see if its corroded


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Old Sep 15, 2021 | 01:35 AM
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W211 E63
Originally Posted by Zap Auto
I Found out the problem, the Gateway is an issue and its right under your steering wheel. The condenced water from the right went hose drops water onto the Gateway module. Just remove the gateway and see if its corroded
I got a Foxwell NT530 Benz scanner and it detected the following codes...one or of them may explain it but in the meantime the Ctek is the most cost-effective answer given I've had to prioritise an airmatic valve block replacement too...I also disconnected the power seat connectors given the known issue with them but it didn;t have any effect.

9450 B31 C-AAC multifunction sensor
9354 No CAN message received from rear SAM
90E2 CAN comm with REAR SAM is sporadically disturbed
9098 Control Unit N10/2 (Rear SAM control unit with fuse and relay module) is not transmitting data on the CAN bus
930C Knowledge base configuration incomplete
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Old Sep 15, 2021 | 12:10 PM
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W211 E280
Did you check your gateway?

Originally Posted by Aussie Eddie
I got a Foxwell NT530 Benz scanner and it detected the following codes...one or of them may explain it but in the meantime the Ctek is the most cost-effective answer given I've had to prioritise an airmatic valve block replacement too...I also disconnected the power seat connectors given the known issue with them but it didn;t have any effect.

9450 B31 C-AAC multifunction sensor
9354 No CAN message received from rear SAM
90E2 CAN comm with REAR SAM is sporadically disturbed
9098 Control Unit N10/2 (Rear SAM control unit with fuse and relay module) is not transmitting data on the CAN bus
930C Knowledge base configuration incomplete
​​​​​​
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