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Mortimoto EVO Projector and Depo Facelift Inner Chrome Swap
My cars headlights in the 5 year gap I didn't have the car were in horrible shape. I stumbled across an idea to swap in Morimoto EVO projectors as they were a major step up in performance. I assumed that the org lights were likely not performing well due to the reflective material of the bowl wearing down on top of the horrible lenses. However when I opened my headlights and started to move wired they started to fall apart so I ordered all new OE pre-facelift active lights and then DEPO facelift lights for the inner chrome pieces.
Here are the steps needed to get the projectors to fit and assumes you know how to take apart the housing:
1. You can use this video as a general guide to taking the OE projectors apart and back together but after that the install of the EVOs is diff as they changed the design it seems.
2. Using a 5mm hex key turn these knobs to remove the mount/projector
3. From there watch the video above and disassemble the OE projectors. You will need the following sized bits: T7, T20, and T25
Now the fun part to modify the EVOs to fit
1. Remove the 4 Philips screws and remove the lens from the EVOs, you will NOT need to keep these as they will not be used at all
2. You will need to create a hole at the top of the lens mount to match that of the OE.
3. Next on the EVO bowl you will notice that bottom tab comes out with a little bump by the mounting points. You will need to trim this to be straight and then drill in a new mounting hole. The bottom of the AFS motor has 2 nubs that will go in where the EVO has the holes for 2 screws. This is why you won't need to keep the Philps screws. You may have to wiggle and press hard here to get the number in the hole. Once you do you will see where the metal needs to be cut into to allow for the OE screws to go into the bottom motor mount. Cut them out as best you can, they will won't be 100% perfect due to the location of the screw hole. **ENSURE IT CAN SCREW IN BUT DO NOT SCREW IN PLACE JUST YET**
4. At the top of the lens bracket you will need to get the black piece from the OE light to help you line up the new holes to drill. The black lower plastic piece has nubs that go into the EVO top screw holes, again why you don't need the EVO Philips heads screws. Place plastic mount on the EVO bowl and trace out the holes. Drill out the holes.
5. Now you can mount the lens to the bowl and lower motor mount. You will need a #6 flat washer on BOTH sides of the 2 BOTTOM screws.
**You will need these to ensure the projector doesn't tilt forward and to give the screw a place to put pressure to secure to the mount since you have to cut off the metal.**
Ensure the back side is mostly level/straight to the motor back Ensure the back side is mostly level/straight to the motor back
6. Then you will need a flat washer to place on the top black plastic piece nubs and get the back side metal brace to screw into via the newly drilled holes.
Should now look like this and you are now done with the needed changes to make them work. Just watch the rest of the above video to help guide you the rest of the way to put back together. As you put them back in the housing make sure to connect the ground wire to the projector bowl and the small 2 wire black connection under the bowl is completely connected.
You will notice the EVOs are a little shorter than the OE so they will sit back about 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the chrome inner housing, but shouldn't be super noticeable.
Few quick examples of EVOs vs stock New OE vs Old OE EVOs with Osram CBB vs Old OE
Last edited by black06c230; 10-21-2021 at 02:58 PM.
Not to highjack this thread but about a year ago I swapped the factory projectors with the EVOX-R 2.0 units from Morimoto and performed similar modifications as outlined above and my active cornering works like factory.
Not to highjack this thread but about a year ago I swapped the factory projectors with the EVOX-R 2.0 units from Morimoto and performed similar modifications as outlined above and my active cornering works like factory.
If you want more stuff like the best price on new headlights and the DEPO lights let me know. Understand once you open your old lights the wiring inside will crumble and you will need to rewire-repin it all. I bought all new from Mercedes to just have a better time doing this all they cost about $1100 shipped for the active lights.
If you want more stuff like the best price on new headlights and the DEPO lights let me know. Understand once you open your old lights the wiring inside will crumble and you will need to rewire-repin it all. I bought all new from Mercedes to just have a better time doing this all they cost about $1100 shipped for the active lights.
Thanks! I'd love the headlights info also, I'll be cording everything up this weekend
I do want to try to find a way to allow for a high power LED in the high beam but bc of how Benz made the connector and such I haven’t figured out a great setup.
Will likely still use a resistor instead of placing a LED in the city light. I never liked the color diff but maybe this time I can match it. I found a good amber LED bulb I think I should be able to use without issue.
I should have all the connectors on 10-23 and wire it up. Then still need to clean up lights to reseal, swap in the facelift chrome pieces, mount without lenses to test, and then reseal assuming all is good. Aiming for 10-25/26 to have all done.
I got both to take the outer lens as you can see my orig had gone to 💩 and I wanted to have the facelift style inner chrome pieces.
Correction to the above
INITIALLY I only got the Depo to take the outer lens as you can see my orig had gone to 💩 and I wanted to have the facelift style inner
But once I opened my org lights and the wiring fell apart my option was rewire/repin and the continue or buy new headlights. I waited about a month thinking I would have my buddy who works at the Benz factory here in Alabama to do the wiring since he does special elec stuff there. He wired in the heated/cooled cup holders in our GL63 by bringing all the tools from Benz to my house and wired it like factory. He just didn’t have the time and so I just said screw it all new will suck $$$ wise but will be best option.
Wish we had a big enough market for these to be in ready supply as good to go kits. The difference in light output with older housings vs new vs a more modern projector/newer LEDs is massive. Really one area where our cars show a little age, though to be fair a number of very early 2000 vehicles had much better output and cutoff than many MBs and BMWs of the time because of the projector lens choice.
Wish we had a big enough market for these to be in ready supply as good to go kits. The difference in light output with older housings vs new vs a more modern projector/newer LEDs is massive. Really one area where our cars show a little age, though to be fair a number of very early 2000 vehicles had much better output and cutoff than many MBs and BMWs of the time because of the projector lens choice.
G wagon LED on leff
EVOs and CBB on the right
I agree on the market. I was thinking if I had a set of active lights in good shape people could send me the EVOs and I would mod them and ship out. Then once they swapped they could send me back their stock ones for the next person.
No active lights would be rather easy I think. I will look over my stuff tomorrow and check.
If you want more stuff like the best price on new headlights and the DEPO lights let me know. Understand once you open your old lights the wiring inside will crumble and you will need to rewire-repin it all. I bought all new from Mercedes to just have a better time doing this all they cost about $1100 shipped for the active lights.
Just a quick FYI, the OE ignitor will work as I reused mine. If I remember correctly there are 2 tabs on the ignitor to removed and will work with the holder that comes with the projectors. I will take a look later to jog my memory.
10-21-2021, 02:51 PM
