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E55 Cranking, but not starting.

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Old 10-25-2021, 03:06 AM
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E55 Cranking, but not starting.

Hi all. Not too long ago we picked up an E55, and admittedly it had a few issues such as the sunroof being hard to move, memory seats not remembering positions, and keyless entry not working on drivers side. Regardless, yesterday it developed another issue which we can't seem to figure out.

It simply just doesn't start.

We suspected it was the battery, so we have it a full charge, tried again, cranked for about 6 seconds then shut off. It sounded strong, like it was going to start, so we gave the battery another charge back to full and checked it with a multimeter. 12.59 volts. All functions were running, except the engine. We then ruled out the battery.

Next we thought that maybe the fuel pump has gone, so I put my ears up to the rear seats and had the ignition turned on but not started. I heard a very faint whirr, so I assumed that the pump was good and primed, we tried again, no start.

We are kinda lost on what it could be that stops it from turning over, it ran absolutely perfectly when it was running and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. We washed it, drove it onto the driveway and it didn't start again. My idea that he fuel pump may not be delivering fuel doesn't really add up, since I do believe I heard it prime, and there's no fuel smell inside the cabin. Only other thing that I feel it could potentially be is a Crankshaft Position Sensor...but I can't be sure. I haven't been working on cars for very long, so I don't know how that would stop it from starting. (I'm not experienced, but I enjoy learning how things like this work.) Another idea is that the immobilizer is on but we can't think of any reasons to why it could have been triggered.

Any suggestions to what to test or what you guys think it could be would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Last edited by Jodul; 10-25-2021 at 03:09 AM.
Old 10-25-2021, 09:16 AM
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2006 CLS55 AMG, 2005 SLK 350 AMG
Originally Posted by Jodul
Hi all. Not too long ago we picked up an E55, and admittedly it had a few issues such as the sunroof being hard to move, memory seats not remembering positions, and keyless entry not working on drivers side. Regardless, yesterday it developed another issue which we can't seem to figure out.

It simply just doesn't start.

We suspected it was the battery, so we have it a full charge, tried again, cranked for about 6 seconds then shut off. It sounded strong, like it was going to start, so we gave the battery another charge back to full and checked it with a multimeter. 12.59 volts. All functions were running, except the engine. We then ruled out the battery.

Next we thought that maybe the fuel pump has gone, so I put my ears up to the rear seats and had the ignition turned on but not started. I heard a very faint whirr, so I assumed that the pump was good and primed, we tried again, no start.

We are kinda lost on what it could be that stops it from turning over, it ran absolutely perfectly when it was running and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. We washed it, drove it onto the driveway and it didn't start again. My idea that he fuel pump may not be delivering fuel doesn't really add up, since I do believe I heard it prime, and there's no fuel smell inside the cabin. Only other thing that I feel it could potentially be is a Crankshaft Position Sensor...but I can't be sure. I haven't been working on cars for very long, so I don't know how that would stop it from starting. (I'm not experienced, but I enjoy learning how things like this work.) Another idea is that the immobilizer is on but we can't think of any reasons to why it could have been triggered.

Any suggestions to what to test or what you guys think it could be would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Sounds like it could be the classic failed Crankshaft Position Sensor. But, I'm a long way from the car and can't see it from here. If it is the sensor, it is located on the rear of the feft side of the engine, below the cylinder head, at the union of the transmission.
Old 10-25-2021, 10:20 AM
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A few months back, I had a similar issue with a base W211.

Have you scanned the car? Any codes? Assuming no codes; otherwise, address them first if related to the engine

If you heard the pump-priming, let us assume it is working. Then, how much fuel is in the tank? > 1/2 or < 1/2?. Less than 1/2, can your scanner show you the level of fuel on each side of the tank? At worst, you can have one side full (say driver's side), and the other side empty --> 1/2 tank full, the pump will prime, and nothing will make it to the engine. You can add a bit of fuel to the tank which will make it to the passenger's side, and try again. If it starts, you isolated your problem.

The crank position sensor can also be a problem, but first, it needs fuel to start the engine.

You can start diagnosing it either way, but I can tell you I spend a few hours between several days to find out the gauge at 1/3 tank marking, and the passenger's side empty (that is from where the main pump feeds the engine). I did not know I could check the independent fuel levels in the scanner early on.

Good luck
Old 10-25-2021, 10:58 AM
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Will these cars start with the CKP unplugged using some default strategy since I assume there is a cam position sensor as well? That would be an easy test and require no parts.
Old 10-25-2021, 12:18 PM
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Crank position sensors are inexpensive. You can purchase a Bosch sensor on Amazon for under $27

Amazon Amazon

I have installed this exact sensor in my 55 and it works perfectly.
Old 10-25-2021, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by juanmor40

Have you scanned the car? Any codes? Assuming no codes; otherwise, address them first if related to the engine

If you heard the pump-priming, let us assume it is working. Then, how much fuel is in the tank? > 1/2 or < 1/2?. Less than 1/2, can your scanner show you the level of fuel on each side of the tank? At worst, you can have one side full (say driver's side), and the other side empty --> 1/2 tank full, the pump will prime, and nothing will make it to the engine. You can add a bit of fuel to the tank which will make it to the passenger's side, and try again. If it starts, you isolated your problem.

The crank position sensor can also be a problem, but first, it needs fuel to start the engine.

You can start diagnosing it either way, but I can tell you I spend a few hours between several days to find out the gauge at 1/3 tank marking, and the passenger's side empty (that is from where the main pump feeds the engine). I did not know I could check the independent fuel levels in the scanner early on.

Good luck
There's a full tank of fuel in the tank. Well, almost full. I'd say it's probably 75 litres out of 80 litres. She's thirsty.

I tried getting codes initially but the car wouldn't communicate with my scanner. I was stumped. I did eventually get it to communicate with the scanner (I feel ashamed to admit that I only had the ignition turned to Position 1 and not Position 2, which is why I wasn't getting codes originally, but we'll ignore that.)

Code P0335. "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit."

We got the sensor out today. (After alot of swearing, scratched and even cut fingers) It should just be a case of fitting a new crankshaft position sensor and it should be good to go, shouldn't it? Would there be anything else that needs to be done after that other than fitting everything back where it should be, such as clearing codes? One code that did come up was Secondary Air Injection pump, P0410, which should have thrown a CEL, but one wasn't present when it was last ran. Is it possible that it could have been faulty the whole time and this CPS has caused the ECU to pick it up again? We're not sure if that one is a false positive. I believed that the Secondary Air Injection Pump only went out due to a bad relay causing the motor to burn itself out, but we pulled the relay today and it looked fresh, just about as good as one can be, so I don't know if it could have caused a failure.

Last edited by Jodul; 10-25-2021 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Additional question added.
Old 10-25-2021, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jodul
There's a full tank of fuel in the tank. Well, almost full. I'd say it's probably 75 litres out of 80 litres. She's thirsty.

I tried getting codes initially but the car wouldn't communicate with my scanner. I was stumped. I did eventually get it to communicate with the scanner (I feel ashamed to admit that I only had the ignition turned to Position 1 and not Position 2, which is why I wasn't getting codes originally, but we'll ignore that.)
Code P0335. "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit."

We got the sensor out today. (After alot of swearing, scratched and even cut fingers) It should just be a case of fitting a new crankshaft position sensor and it should be good to go, shouldn't it? Would there be anything else that needs to be done after that other than fitting everything back where it should be?
Should clear out that code you saw. But, other than that, you should be good to go.
Old 10-25-2021, 05:59 PM
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Alright, thanks. I updated my reply while you were writing this one, and brought up the fact that I also got a P0410 Secondary Air Injection Pump failure, though sceptical about it. Would you be able to help/suggest anything regarding it?
Old 10-25-2021, 06:26 PM
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Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. The Schrader valve is located on the passenger side front of the fuel rail assuming a left hand drive vehicle. Should be approximately 5.1 to 5.2 bar or roughly 78 to 80 psi. Fuel pump activates for one second when key is turned to position two, then fuel pump shuts off until the motor electronics receive a signal that the crankshaft is turning over and the flywheel is activating the crankshaft position sensor. You say this happened after you wash the car. Raise the hood and insure the plastic cover over their motor electronics and front SAM is securely fastened and the rubber cover is on top of that. If those were not fastened tightly you may have gotten water into the motor electronics and/or the front SAM. If that is the case it is imperative you remove all water and dry those circuit boards as rapidly as possible. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
Old 10-26-2021, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bbirdwell
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. The Schrader valve is located on the passenger side front of the fuel rail assuming a left hand drive vehicle. Should be approximately 5.1 to 5.2 bar or roughly 78 to 80 psi. Fuel pump activates for one second when key is turned to position two, then fuel pump shuts off until the motor electronics receive a signal that the crankshaft is turning over and the flywheel is activating the crankshaft position sensor. You say this happened after you wash the car. Raise the hood and insure the plastic cover over their motor electronics and front SAM is securely fastened and the rubber cover is on top of that. If those were not fastened tightly you may have gotten water into the motor electronics and/or the front SAM. If that is the case it is imperative you remove all water and dry those circuit boards as rapidly as possible. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
That's good to know. I was going to try a fuel pressure test but it turns out we haven't got a gauge. We did manage to determine that it was the crank position sensor, and we're waiting for the part to arrive. Fingers crossed this solves everything.
Old 10-27-2021, 09:16 PM
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2008 E350 (W211 @170K), 2012 ML350 (W166 @119K), 2014 E350 Sport (W212 @96K), 2015 ML350 (W166 @92K)
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