In Storage for 7 Years Will It Start?
07-17-2022, 08:19 PM
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
In Storage for 7 Years Will It Start?
My Queen Of Stealth autobahn marauder has remained in environmentally controlled storage for 7 years under the following conditions:
Fuel tank is full with ARAL 102 Octane ethanol free fuel with a high ratio of Liqui Moly fuel stabilizer.
Cooling system is charged with Pentosin Pentofrost mixed with R/O water and WaterWetter
New (in 2016) Varta group 48 battery with Schumacher Battery Tender
Vehicle is off the ground on 4 support jack stands
I'm curious to see if there is residual pressure in the rail after 7 years.
I will "fog" the cylinders with Sta-Bil fogging oil prior to using DAS to operate the starter several times for several seconds to pre-lube the engine
What could possibly go wrong?.
Fuel tank is full with ARAL 102 Octane ethanol free fuel with a high ratio of Liqui Moly fuel stabilizer.
Cooling system is charged with Pentosin Pentofrost mixed with R/O water and WaterWetter
New (in 2016) Varta group 48 battery with Schumacher Battery Tender
Vehicle is off the ground on 4 support jack stands
I'm curious to see if there is residual pressure in the rail after 7 years.
I will "fog" the cylinders with Sta-Bil fogging oil prior to using DAS to operate the starter several times for several seconds to pre-lube the engine
What could possibly go wrong?.
07-17-2022, 10:41 PM
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Let us know how it goes.
07-18-2022, 03:15 PM
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07-18-2022, 05:17 PM
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What i'd do is, change the oil before starting. Then remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to get the oil pump circulating the oil. After that insert the fuel pump fuse back in and cycle the ignition a few times to get the fuel pressure up and then start the engine.
You proabbly need to replace the control arm bushings, because they have been under load for 7 years. Those bushings are torqued with the wheels on the ground. The wheels having been in the air causes to bushings to remain in an "unnatural" position. Are you still in Germany?
You proabbly need to replace the control arm bushings, because they have been under load for 7 years. Those bushings are torqued with the wheels on the ground. The wheels having been in the air causes to bushings to remain in an "unnatural" position. Are you still in Germany?
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07-18-2022, 11:13 PM
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
Because of my wife's illness and then Covid this necessitated that we remained at our home in Florida (the car is at our home in Germany).
The bushings are polyurethane and should be just fine
What i'd do is, change the oil before starting. Then remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to get the oil pump circulating the oil. After that insert the fuel pump fuse back in and cycle the ignition a few times to get the fuel pressure up and then start the engine.
The oil (Mobil 1) is fresh. As I posted, after fogging I will use DAS to operate the starter this way I can spin up the engine stress free with 1 plug removed from each cylinder which will pre-lube the system without any ignition and no fuel injected
You proabbly need to replace the control arm bushings, because they have been under load for 7 years. Those bushings are torqued with the wheels on the ground. The wheels having been in the air causes to bushings to remain in an "unnatural" position. Are you still in Germany?
The oil (Mobil 1) is fresh. As I posted, after fogging I will use DAS to operate the starter this way I can spin up the engine stress free with 1 plug removed from each cylinder which will pre-lube the system without any ignition and no fuel injected
You proabbly need to replace the control arm bushings, because they have been under load for 7 years. Those bushings are torqued with the wheels on the ground. The wheels having been in the air causes to bushings to remain in an "unnatural" position. Are you still in Germany?
11-24-2022, 02:06 PM
#10
Another method to “lube” the pistons, as told to me by MB Techs themselves, is to disco each Injector electrical connection harness and unscrew the Oil Cap, have someone observe while you turn over (Not Continuously, but On/Off ) the engine with the ignition (this can take up to 15-20 on/offs!) until you see oil flowing at the Cams, then reconnect the harnesses, tighten the oil Cap and you should be good. This way, while you’re turning it over, your priming the fuel rail but since each injector is disco’d no fuel is delivered, obviously.
Of course 7 years is a long time however, the gas, being 100 Octane Non-ethanol, may be OK? I too would change the Oil and probably drain the coolant for good measure. Before “turning it over with the ignition, I might remove all the spark plugs and in addition to “fogging” each piston (good idea), I would manually turn over the engine at the Crank with a Ratchet, just to make sure nothing is “locked” before turning it over with the ignition.
Yeah, the rubber may be compromised if it was on Jack stands, but I hope it turns out OK. Let us know!
Of course 7 years is a long time however, the gas, being 100 Octane Non-ethanol, may be OK? I too would change the Oil and probably drain the coolant for good measure. Before “turning it over with the ignition, I might remove all the spark plugs and in addition to “fogging” each piston (good idea), I would manually turn over the engine at the Crank with a Ratchet, just to make sure nothing is “locked” before turning it over with the ignition.
Yeah, the rubber may be compromised if it was on Jack stands, but I hope it turns out OK. Let us know!
Last edited by E63007; 02-04-2023 at 12:21 AM.
