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As for me, what I plan to do is replaced all of my front and rear suspension components; control arms, thrust arms, trailing arms, wishbones, ball joints, wheel bearings etc. My E63 is 15 years old now, and the suspension needs a refresh.
All the parts have been ordered, and some parts are arriving today. In total, I've spent $2250 on parts thus far. Oh, I almost forgot that I also need to replace a leaking front air strut. The air start to leak out after a day.
Granted the air suspension does bleed off some air, once the car sits. But there is noticeable difference between the right and the left. Good thing, I have Arnott units on the car now, and it will be replaced under warranty.
Just waiting on parts now.
Depends on the goal. If you are going for brand new, yes. If the car handles properly, doesn't chew up tires worse than when these cars were new, and doesn't clunk then I certainly wouldn't be looking to replace everything.
I'm just looking to replace worn out and tired suspension components. So, it's all getting replaced. It doesn't make sense to have some new and some 15 years old.
Changed the crankshaft position sensor out of an abundance of caution. 140K miles. No idea if it has ever been changed.
While I was in there, I cleaned the throttle body, which really needed it.
I managed to lose the little clip on top of the TB that holds the TB wiring harness. It fell down into the abyss. Hopefully it's something that I can order.
One question: Does anyone happen to know the torque specs of for the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body?
Changed the crankshaft position sensor out of an abundance of caution. 140K miles. No idea if it has ever been changed.
While I was in there, I cleaned the throttle body, which really needed it.
I managed to lose the little clip on top of the TB that holds the TB wiring harness. It fell down into the abyss. Hopefully it's something that I can order.
One question: Does anyone happen to know the torque specs of for the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body?
Aren't hose bolts about 6 or 8mm? That would be about 20Nm - just snug them up, not too much.
Aren't hose bolts about 6 or 8mm? That would be about 20Nm - just snug them up, not too much.
Thanks! After you posted this, I buttoned her up, reset the ECU, and went for a test drive...and came back with a little less rubber on the rear tires 😂
Got it back on the road registered for the first time in nearly 4 years this week. I was overseas and kept my car in storage with my grandparents who occasionally started it up and took it around the block. Unfortunately life got in the way for them with sickness and injury (they are getting fairly old) so it sat unstarted for almost 2 years.
So, two new batteries, valve cover gaskets, tyres, all four airbags, rerouted meth system wiring and plumbing, oil change, supercharger off to clean fuel injectors and meth nozzle, brake fluid flush, trunk tank flush, new rear level height sensor and a glove box cover as mine had started to bubble (5 years ago) then drove it about 500km home. Had it inspected for registration and paid rego. About $3k in a few days all up. Aus rego is $800, inspection is $250, tyres were $1400, I got the bags and valve cover gaskets in the US just before I came home as they were way, way cheaper than buying them in Aus (all 4 for the price of 1).
It was great to be back driving. I took my son for his first spin in it. I got about 5km down the road and 'ESP fault' pops, car looses power, ndash shows AFR at 8 (as low as it goes), vacuum is -25 (as low as it goes). No big deal, can be a 'key off and on' kind of thing, or blower belt has come off. Pull over, and car is in full on limp mode. Popped the bonnet, everything looks fine. Nothing to note. Im stuck. So limp it home at 20km/h with car surging between 800-1200rpm. Very, very frustrating after spending so much money on parts and time. Car has thrown a throttle body code. So swap the 82 with my stock one... multiple times back and forth with every reset possible, pulling fuses, ecu resets, mb laptop showing nothing useful. I decide to circle back to the AFR and vacuum on Ndash to see what was going on there. Long story short, an earth had broken on the ZT-2, and as the TPS is tapped it was meaning the TPS was just open loop.
Man I was frustrated! I am glad after a couple of hours of dicking around it was a 1 cent earthing connection to resolder and jobs done. Now back to ripping around. My kid loves it now.
This technically isn't my E55 any more, I sold it to my dad a few years ago. But that's good because he's basically doing all the restoration stuff I didn't get to! Over the weekend we replaced the front brakes with Girodisc rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads. These rotors saved a nice chunk of weight and look much nicer than the OEM ones I had on there. The hubs look a little used because I took these off my old W212 E63 when I sold that, and gave the hubs to my pops. He just bought new rings. Easy job, unplug the SBC system, use a 10MM Allen socket on the bolts on top of the calipers, and clean everything up.
I wish that we could just buy the friction rings on the OEM rotors. But Coleman Racing can make you a set of custom friction rings. Just send them an email and they will hook you up.
This is what I was quoted:
William,
The following is the cost for the brake rotors.
I also included the options.
17598 Casting, machined to specs……………..$275.79 ea.
Options:
18841…Stress Relieve………………………$ 24.68 ea. rotor
18842…Balance………………………………..$ 29.83 ea. Rotor (Recommended due to diameter of disc)
18843..Crossdrill (Standard Pattern)…….$ 65.50 ea. rotor
18844…Gas Vent (Standard Pattern)…….$ 24.80 ea. rotor
I went to Benz Elite Automotive today, to drop off all my suspension parts. And ensure that they placed an order to my lower rear bushing for the lower control arm, and the passenger side front air-strut which is under warranty as it's an Arnott unit.
My car goes into the shop on Monday for its suspension refresh. I'm changing out everything in the front except for the inner tie rods, will check sway bar bushing and replace if needed. And for the rear everything except for the lower control arms.
The air suspension components: air-struts, air-springs, air compressor and distribution block were replaced in 2020. I'm taking 3days off next week, to document everything with pictures.
I drove the car again after like 3 weeks and replaced the transmission mount. I keep forgeting how much fun they are to drive. Also filled up the tank, which was less fun though.
I received some word that the Aral 102 is fluctuating somewhat in quality, leading to issues with (especially) tuned cars
That was fake news The guy who made the assumption got the lab results back and it measured 101,8 ROZ Octane, so all within spec.I even dynoed my car with 102 when those rumours were going around and everything was fine. I did use an octane booster tho lol
I have been fighting with MB parts department. Doing a conversion from E55 to E63 front end. All is gravy, for the exception of them telling me that front outer grilles for E63 is a solid plastic, not a see-through mesh. I know this is total BS because I got Rt side as a mesh but Lt side as solid plastic.
***see below.
What I need and got from MB. What I got from the same MB dealer, who claims that there is no mesh for E63 models.
I have been fighting with MB parts department. Doing a conversion from E55 to E63 front end. All is gravy, for the exception of them telling me that front outer grilles for E63 is a solid plastic, not a see-through mesh. I know this is total BS because I got Rt side as a mesh but Lt side as solid plastic.
***see below.
What I need and got from MB. What I got from the same MB dealer, who claims that there is no mesh for E63 models.
I dunno, man. When I see the numbers go from "...17 53" to "...18 53", that's usually how left/right stuff works in the MB world.
Why not get a VIN from autotrader and put it into https://mbparts.mbusa.com and see what part numbers show up (or not)?
That was fake news The guy who made the assumption got the lab results back and it measured 101,8 ROZ Octane, so all within spec.I even dynoed my car with 102 when those rumours were going around and everything was fine. I did use an octane booster tho lol
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
What did you do to your W211 AMG today?
