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Need to replace front suspension - advice appreciated
Hey all
I got a MUCH larger than expected quote today to replace front suspension parts that I just can't pull off right now (kid in college, another with medical bills) so was hoping i might get some advice here from folks who have dealt with this before. I've done a lot of wrenching on cars over the last 25+ years (engine buids/swaps, trannies, pretty much all systems except suspension) but I just never had to (Or chose not to) do anything with suspension. My car is a 2006 CLS55 with 94k miles on it. I've owned it 10 years now and have not yet had any suspension issues but I definately can see it needing attention now (noises, wore out, etc, see pics). I just have a few questions below I'd appreciate hearing from people on, but am also open to any guidance or suggestions beyond those as well.
According to them the front suspension has totally bad rear lower ball joints and about to break, the control arm bushings are cracking and the bearings have a lot of play. Questions:
- The quote indicated I needed control arms, ball joints and wheel bearings replaced in the front. Does it make sense they included wheel bearing? I've never considered reaplcing a wheel bearing save due to an issue...normal maintenance part in your opinion? Any thoughts on skipping it for now and revisiting it? I prefer to deal with one issue at a time, so if you think it should be replaced, but can wait until I have everything else settled, let me know.
- If I am going to udpate the front suspension, would you thiink the following kit (see link) to be what I need? If not, whast would you get? Here is the kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...r-164330343507 no idea about it...I've bought from FCP before so on a quick search found this option, do let me know if you think I should go with other parts and where you'd go to get them (I'd appreciate it).
- Difficulty - yeah I can remove, tear down and reinstall an engine, but I just have not done much in suspension. For someone who hasn't done really anything in this area, and I am thinking there my be some stuff to know here beyond just pulling parts and bolting them back in, how hard would you say this is to do for someone hitting it the first time? Am I going to need to spend 30+ hours reading up on suspension or is this actually a pull and replace parts situation? I can and will research this more, but just was hoping to get a sense of how much time I need to consider investing into this before considering a second quote from another shop
- anything else you think I should do/replace while there?
Thanks again to anyone who knows more willing to take a minute to reply.
Hiya, fellow CLS55 owner and I just did the suspension refresh on the front. It was not that hard to do, but also not the easiest. I documented the lot with pictures, you can see them in my build thread:
- The quote indicated I needed control arms, ball joints and wheel bearings replaced in the front. Does it make sense they included wheel bearing? I've never considered reaplcing a wheel bearing save due to an issue...normal maintenance part in your opinion? Any thoughts on skipping it for now and revisiting it? I prefer to deal with one issue at a time, so if you think it should be replaced, but can wait until I have everything else settled, let me know.
I skipped it. You can always replace them later if needed, but it could very well be a good "while you are in there" item to replace
- If I am going to udpate the front suspension, would you thiink the following kit (see link) to be what I need? If not, whast would you get? Here is the kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...r-164330343507 no idea about it...I've bought from FCP before so on a quick search found this option, do let me know if you think I should go with other parts and where you'd go to get them (I'd appreciate it).
Thats the wrong kit, you need these items:
- Difficulty - yeah I can remove, tear down and reinstall an engine, but I just have not done much in suspension. For someone who hasn't done really anything in this area, and I am thinking there my be some stuff to know here beyond just pulling parts and bolting them back in, how hard would you say this is to do for someone hitting it the first time? Am I going to need to spend 30+ hours reading up on suspension or is this actually a pull and replace parts situation? I can and will research this more, but just was hoping to get a sense of how much time I need to consider investing into this before considering a second quote from another shop
You will need the special tool for the lower ball joint
- anything else you think I should do/replace while there?
Drop links might be a good item to replace. Also consider replacing nuts+bolts if they looks crappy
As someone, that has just completed an entire suspension rebuild front and rear. I have some insight into the process. In most cases it's cheaper to replace entire components, instead of pressing in new bushings. But, if you have time and you're a DIY then press away.
Definitely, replace your worn out ball joints, as that is a safety issue and needs to be addressed immediately. In most cases, the upper wishbone bushing don't need replacing, just the individual upper ball joint.
The lower control arm, thrust arm, sway bar links, lower ball joint will need replacing at some point. If money is tight, then replace the ball joints first. Your worn out bushings will keep you on the road until your able to replace them.
I replaced my wheel bearings, this is a wear item. But if you have no movement, and the bearing are still good to go, then you can afford to wait. I had 101,xxx miles on mine, so they were replaced. https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...s-old-e63.html
Wow, a lot of that looks rough. Generally I would also recommend replacing entire components. You're going to want to inspect everything, but it looks like a lot of stuff needs replacing. How is the upper control arm ball joint and those bushings? For the wheel bearings, you are really just checking for play and then you can do the preload adjustment procedure (technically requires dial indicator). If you can't get the play to spec, they need to be replaced. This happened to mine. It may be that the shop just feels play and figures, throw them on the list, too. Then again looking at everything else they probably could stand a replacement. They are not unitized. Old school.
Good feedback guys, I appreciate it. I've taken some pride in doing most all my own work on my own and family's cars so will take some time to research this. I admit as I get older I am less inclined to want to do stuff myself and even more so when I've not done it before...but at $3,500 quote to reaplce up and lower control arms seemed pretty stiff.
You think I am ok to drive it a while longer until I figure out which way to go (and possibly start ordering parts and what not)? (I drive about 50 miles a week in suburbs)
What worries me, is those rusted out ball joints, if they were to fail on a drive, your entire suspension could collapse, and the wheel could separate from the knuckle. Personally, I wouldn't drive it in the state that it's in now.
Last edited by Yuille36; Sep 12, 2022 at 04:18 PM.
Ok, then thanks Yullie. I do drive kids in it now and then so it will be parked and I'll just use my spare beater untl its resolved. I'm glad I asked. I've been driving it quite a bit already so I am likely on borrowed time as it is.
you can absolutely replace all the arms (with joints and bushings) on your own, I just did it on my E55. Buy a QAULITY ball joint separator tool, and get the press kit like demonstrated above and you can do it at home with a jackstand. I was quoted $3400 for the work and did it myself for about $400 (including buying tools)
Hello, I am in the midst of a front suspension refresh since my Right front air strut failed on my 06 CLS55 as well. $3400 seems like an awful lot especially since you are not doing air struts too. Everything is fairly straight forward. The lower thrust arm bushing take a beating and get ripped out. I went with the units from FCP that have the spherical joints vs rubber bushings. There twice as much but should not have to replace them again. They have a nice full boat kit with all the arms. If you replace the strut control arms that the struts and sway bar drop links mount to you should get an alignment done after. I replaced my upper ball joints since they are super easy and I had to disconnect them any way to drop the air struts down. You can get a CTA 4013 or OTC 6297 ball joint remover which is not as cumbersome as the c-clamp style. I have one and it works well. A good digital torque wrench with angle would be useful but not a need. I am getting by with my torque angle gauge and snap-on torque wrenches. Please see below for torque specs which have helped me.
Just remember to tighten the rubber control arm bushings while the car is in the normal ride height position. If you tighten them while the car is up in the air, it puts more stress on them when it’s down. And get yourself a ball joint extractor tool.
Those look great, I saw them being used by Alex from LegitStreetcars as well.
Lol, I just noticed that you guys have that issue with the boots for the inner tie rods as well (deformed). Seems like a product characteristic :P
Yeah those thrust arm bushings really show their cracks and tears when you flex the bushing. I think their is a design issue here that the bushings just do not hold up well especially considering the rest of the bushings and ball joints looked good still. Alex mentioned a rubber bushing or a fluid filled bushing too. At least these spherical joints will outlast the ball joints on the other side.
I’m about to replace both front air struts in my CLS55 when I get the parts in the mail tomorrow.
I’m a 21 year old College student and was able to replace struts on my W211s in a few hours. Sounds like you’re way more experienced at wrenching than I am. If you’ve done engine swaps in the past, I don’t see how control arms, ball joints, and wheel bearings would be hard to do yourself.
Hello, I am in the midst of a front suspension refresh since my Right front air strut failed on my 06 CLS55 as well. $3400 seems like an awful lot especially since you are not doing air struts too. Everything is fairly straight forward. The lower thrust arm bushing take a beating and get ripped out. I went with the units from FCP that have the spherical joints vs rubber bushings. There twice as much but should not have to replace them again. They have a nice full boat kit with all the arms. If you replace the strut control arms that the struts and sway bar drop links mount to you should get an alignment done after. I replaced my upper ball joints since they are super easy and I had to disconnect them any way to drop the air struts down. You can get a CTA 4013 or OTC 6297 ball joint remover which is not as cumbersome as the c-clamp style. I have one and it works well. A good digital torque wrench with angle would be useful but not a need. I am getting by with my torque angle gauge and snap-on torque wrenches. Please see below for torque specs which have helped me.
Jesus, my front right strut failed as well on my CLS55. You’re the 4th CLS55 owner I’ve talked to in the past 2 or so weeks who has just recently had an Air strut fail, myself not included.
I’m about to replace both front air struts in my CLS55 when I get the parts in the mail tomorrow.
I’m a 21 year old College student and was able to replace struts on my W211s in a few hours. Sounds like you’re way more experienced at wrenching than I am. If you’ve done engine swaps in the past, I don’t see how control arms, ball joints, and wheel bearings would be hard to do yourself.
Best to you with the replacement that are actually pretty easy considering what a spring strut change out would be having to disassemble and compress a spring.
Did you go with Arnotts or Bilstein out of curiosity? You may want to do at least front upper ball joints. You have to separate the joint anyway and from there is 3 easy bolts/nuts to swap. I recall doing ball joints on my old 84' Porsche 944 and the OE joints were riveted into the control arm so they had to be drilled out.
Best to you with the replacement that are actually pretty easy considering what a spring strut change out would be having to disassemble and compress a spring.
Did you go with Arnotts or Bilstein out of curiosity? You may want to do at least front upper ball joints. You have to separate the joint anyway and from there is 3 easy bolts/nuts to swap. I recall doing ball joints on my old 84' Porsche 944 and the OE joints were riveted into the control arm so they had to be drilled out.
I went with Arnott. On my W211s, I got the struts off eBay a few years ago and I doubt they were Arnott but they were claimed to be OEM. I have no idea what brand they were.
I went with Arnott. On my W211s, I got the struts off eBay a few years ago and I doubt they were Arnott but they were claimed to be OEM. I have no idea what brand they were.
Also, I have a question for anyone in this thread who may be able to answer. The day I blew my strut, my alignment seemed to be off afterwards. I hit a deep pothole too fast (didn’t see it at all until it was too late to react) and many miles down the road later, I noticed that my alignment seemed to be off and my car was starting to pull to the right. However, I couldn’t confirm this at the time and I figured it was all in my head. A few hours later while driving, I did a pull from about 30 to 90mph and when I slowed down I was greeted with the Red Air suspension light of death. I started to think more, the day I bought the car and was driving it back home to Seattle from Portland, Oregon, I remember being able to take my hands off the wheel at 60mph and the car would stay nearly completely straight. That isn’t the case anymore, and I have photo & video footage from the day I bought my car to prove it. Could I have bent a tie rod or something by hitting that pothole, causing it to knock my alignment off? I will send a photo tomorrow of the difference of steering wheel alignment from the 1st day I had the car and now.
OP replace those ball joints before you drive the car again. With fresh ball joints and an alignment drive it only as long as it takes you to scratch up the dough to do all the arms. Those arms with spherical pivots... wish I knew of them when I had the E-55. Do both of them on each side at the same time. Those upper ball joints are inexpensive and an easy replacement. Do it. Get an alignment by a guy who can align a Mercedes correctly. This is not Elroy at the corner garage.
Wheel bearings that that are not noisy don’t need to be replaced. If you care enough; have them out, clean them up and re-pack them with fresh grease. You will need a pair of seals. When reassembling wheel bearings the castle nut gets snugged up as much as you can easily do with a thumb and forefinger. Not with tools as over tightening will fry perfectly good bearings. Do no harm.
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