Rebuild MasterTech suspension ordeal.
. Eventually, 2 weeks later I got my order and installed them.
From the very first day they simply did not sound right. They rattled over small bumps or when the suspension was unloaded then reloaded like when going over a speed bump. The best way to describe it was the sound it would make of you had forgotten to tighten the top strut tower bolts. A very noticable clunking. Keep in mind my entire front suspension is all new, I replaced everything and the struts were 100% the issue.
They did agree to warranty them for a full refund and not a replacement which I found odd. If you read the email correspondence you can see towards the end where they basically tell me they do not "rebuild" the struts, they simply replace the airbag portion. So in theory you can receive a new airbag on a clapped out 300,000 mile strut.
So anyway I put my old Arnotts in after greasing them to make the noise that they made quiet down, packed up the RMTs and returned them a week prior to Thanksgiving. I was supposed to be refunded Wednesday the 23rd of November. I have not received the refund nor have they responded to my emails.
I was forced to contact my credit card company and file a dispute which hopefully they are able to get my funds back, cause as of now RMT has my money and the struts. I'm basically $h!t out of luck at this point.
Have a read through my messages with them and be the judge if I'm being overly demanding as a customer. This post is just to explain my interactions with this company, I'm sure others have had great experiences. Do what you will with this information.
I'm trying to follow why you decided to rebuild? Sometimes when it comes to these sorts of things, it's better to beat on your wallet than your head. My .02
I'm trying to follow why you decided to rebuild? Sometimes when it comes to these sorts of things, it's better to beat on your wallet than your head. My .02
Arnotts also do not rebuild their struts and their new ones make noise on multiple different platforms.
I already had a set of Arnotts in the car that made a knocking noise when the wheel was turned. And they wouldn't warranty them cause I couldn't find a proof of purchase. so screw them also. All these companies are scams.
Last edited by Jerseyjules; Dec 8, 2022 at 12:19 PM.




I removed airmatic on all my Benzes and have no regrets...
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I actually work for a well know German performance suspension company. We make coilovers, including ones for the W211. I still kept the AIrmatic even though I could have converted at a very attractive cost. For those that cannot afford to maintain the system, I would suggest not going for the eBay coilover solution. They may look good in the photos, but any coilover set that retails for under $600 would cost about $50 to produce. You are not going to receive a quality product for that type of production cost. I know that BC is very popular for our application, but I have not been super impressed with they build quality and damping from what I have seen.




I have Bilstein B4 and Eibach springs on my E220, which i have driven around 130000km on this setup. My E55 is on H&R Monotubes coilovers and my CLS500 has Sachs oem shocks and H&R lowering springs.If you go with around 30mm lower, it's perfectly fine for daily driving. The H&R monotubes are very stiff and not the best for daily driving i'd imagine, but very nice for sporty driving.
Fast forward to March 2020, right at the beginning of the COVID/CPC Virus Scare, I had a Rear Main Seal Leak that was wreaking havoc by producing Oil Mist emanating from both the weep hole at the bottom side of the tranny but also the top passenger side where there is a slot from which the mist had falsely given me the impression I had an EVAP leak from the back of the engine as it coated my newly installed “Catch-Can” hoses with oil? That mist would also coat the exhaust pipe causing plumes of white smoke whenever I would come to a stop! I had been ordering/Compiling parts for the past year for the entire rear Suspension, Subframe, Driveshaft Discs, Tranny Mount, Hubs, rotors, brakes etc., so I had decided that now would be the time to undertake that marathon build. I had removed the entire subframe from the car, so it was a couple months since I had removed the rear Air Struts. Upon installation, they “looked OK”, but it was only when I had rebuilt everything and was using the STAR/Xentry to give a base level PSI to the rear struts when I noticed one of the Air Struts was deformed in the shape of a banana! Moreover, that front driver side Strut was leaking! Once again, I brought it them both back to RMT and they “honored” the warranty no problem.
Fast forward to present day, I just had to remove the TCM from the Tranny as I had been been getting an Output Gear Code which resulted in my tranny sometimes not reading the proper gear whenever I used the paddle shifters. This would cause for the car to remain in the gear it was last in, no matter how slow you ended up at. If I managed to get to a stop light and turn the ignition Off/On then most times it would reset, and I’d be ok. However, if I tried to shift to Neutral, then it would stay in Neutral and the OFF/On would usually reset. However, I eventually ended up stranded on the side of the road (ie-my Reset procedure wasn’t working!) whereupon I had to get my car towed. Once up on the stands, after removing the TCU, I noticed that once again, the front driver side strut was leaking Oil? Interestingly, when using STAR/XENTRY to release air from the driver strut, (I also lowered Air pressure from all the other struts as I do whenever the car is to be off the ground on stands) I noticed that when I manually released as much air as possible from the Driver Side, I had double-checked the pressure reading and it showed that the driver Strut was still full, however the passenger was fully depleted? This is perplexing because until this moment, it had been able to be filled/released via STAR no problem! It had been working just fine for the past year and a half, well past the first time I had brought it in back in 2018, and still they “honored” their warranty. I explained that there may be an issue with the sensor, but that I was still confused with why the passenger side was the side that actually released air when I had directed STAR to release from the Driver Side? STAR/Xentry showed no codes? Nevertheless, I should be receiving it tomorrow as we just had celebrated Christmas. It may be due to the fact that I come in personally and show them the pics I had taken during the process coupled with the fact that they know I am proficient enough to know when there really is a problem backed up by either video or pictures of the STAR/Xentry, but I have found they have been more than generous in honoring their warranty!
Last edited by E63007; Jan 2, 2023 at 11:04 AM.
Fast forward to March 2020, right at the beginning of the COVID/CPC Virus Scare, I had a Rear Main Seal Leak that was wreaking havoc by producing Oil Mist emanating from both the weep hole at the bottom side of the tranny but also the top passenger side where there I a slot from which the mist had falsely given me the impression I had an EVAP leak from the back of the engine? That mist would also coat the exhaust pipe causing plumes of white smoke whenever I would come to a stop! I had been ordering/Compiling parts for the past year for the entire rear Suspension, Subframe, Driveshaft Discs, Tranny Mount, Hubs, rotors, brakes etc., so I had decided that now would be the time to undertake that marathon build. I had removed the entire subframe from the car, so it was a couple months since I had removed the rear Air Struts. Upon installation, they “looked OK”, but it was only when I had rebuilt everything and was using the STAR/Xentry to give a base level PSI to the rear struts when I noticed one of the Air Struts was deformed in the shape of a banana! Moreover, that front driver side Strut was leaking! Once again, I brought it them both back to RMT and they “honored” the warranty no problem.
Fast forward to present day, I just had to remove the TCM from the Tranny as I had been been getting an Output Gear Code which resulted in my tranny sometimes not reading the proper gear whenever I used the paddle shifters. This would cause for the car to remain in the gear it was last in, no matter how slow you ended up at. If I managed to get to a stop light and turn the ignition Off/On then most times it would reset, and I d be ok. However, if I tried to shift to Neutral, then it would stay in Neutral and the OFF/On would usually reset. However, I eventually ended up stranded on the side of the road whereupon I had to get my car towed. Once up on the stands, after removing the TCU, I noticed that once again, the front driver side strut was leaking Oil? Interestingly, when using STAR/XENTRY to release air from the driver strut, (I also lowered Air pressure from all the other struts as I do whenever the car is to be off the ground on stands) I noticed that when I manually released as much air as possible from the Driver Side, I had double-checked the pressure reading and it showed that the driver Strut was still full, however the passenger was fully depleted? This perplexing because until this moment, it had been able to be filled/released via STAR no problem! It had been working just fine for the past year and a half, well past the first time I had brought it in back in 2018, and still they “honored” their warranty. I explained that there may be an issue with the sensor, but that I was still confused with why the passenger side was the side that actually released air when I had directed STAR to release from the Driver Side? STAR/Xentry showed no codes? Nevertheless, I should be receiving it tomorrow as we just had celebrated Christmas. It may be due to the fact that I come in personally and show them the pics I had taken during the process coupled with the fact that they know I am proficient enough to know when there really is a problem backed up by either video or pictures of the STAR/Xentry, but I have found they have been more than generous in honoring their warranty!
I guess if your not willing to save a few bucks using their services then you always have the option of buying new from Mercedes, unless you are one of those who care not for the OEM Airmatic “on-the-fly” adjustment functionality and would rather give that up by purchasing an inferior copy, I think you know what Co. I mean here, in which case maybe you should swap to a Coil Spring? Good luck trying to convince a would be buyer of that being an upgrade, however!





