testknight

All,

I have a 2006 CLS55 that needs front suspension work. I have pics from under the car but I am told the control arm bushings are cracking and lower ball joints are about to break. That shop quoted a WAY too high quote (I've learned that’s common for them) so the car has been in storage. Unfortunately, I now have shoulder injury that isn't going away anytime soon so I found a small mom/pop shop willing to look at it. I just have a few questions (I've wrenched a ton but very little in the suspension arena so I'm quite naive about it) that I’d really appreciate some guidance on:

1.) What items should I be replacing? I planned to buy all OEM parts (for shops’ peace of mind) and bring them in. I am looking at getting the items below (also see attached image), but not 100% sure if anything needs added/removed:

a. Both upper control arms

b. Both upper lower control arms

c. Both strut rods

d. Two lower ball joints


2.) Questions:

a. (my ignorance being apparent here)…do I nehe the two lower ball joints or are they already part of the lower control arm?

b. Anything that “really” must be done while we are at it? Any other parts needed?

c. Any concerns with a mom-pop shop taking this on? They typically work on domestics, but did not shy away from me in an initial discussion about this. They have also bubbled up a few times now with people I know as a very honest shop that’s been around for 20 years.

d. Anything special about the install that would make it any different than any other car? Do they have to mess with the air shock/struts system at all or require the use of STAR? If so, are these things I can just take to a shop equipped with it once the physical work is done?

e. Any other things I should be aware of or ensure the shop is aware of?



I REALLY appreciate any input. -Chris

bbirdwell

Been there, done that, got the T-shirts.
You have a 2006; different upper control arm from the 2003 models.
Item 10: purchase and replace the ball joint only, not the entire upper control arm. 3 nuts remove and replace to swap out the ball joint. (ball joint separater tool obviously required.)
Item 11: Thrust arm aka front lower control arm (aluminum). Replace the entire part.
Item 3: Control arm aka rear lower control arm (steel) Replace the entire part.
Item 13: Replace that ball joint in the steering knuckle because, "the suspension is already apart and it is easier to replace it now rather than later". (This lesson cost me ~$1200 because I paid an indy to do it for me. Do it all at once. Not separately.) (Ball joint press/push tool required.)

Yes, you can just replace the bushings in Item 3 but it is less costly to just swap the control arm out rather than remove, press out bushing, press in bushing, then reinstall.

FWIW, your diagram is not for your car; it is for a non-Airmatic-equipped E320, not your CLS55 which is the same as an E55 except for different sheet metal and interior.

You can perform the work yourself with the proper tools in a weekend but be advised the camber/caster eccentric bolts can be a PITA to install in the proper positions and the front thrust arm nuts are another PITA to place a socket and torque wrench on to properly torque the mechanical connections. (Like I said, "Been there, done that, got the T-shirts"). Also, don't do this work when tired. I installed the front right thrust arm late on a Friday night, only to realize on Saturday morning I had installed the front left thrust arm in its place. Curse, remove incorrect part, install correct part, then slow down and do it correctly.

EDIT: So long as the air struts are not replaced, you should not need to re-calibrate the suspension. If you replace an air spring, re-calibrate. Not difficult at all.

bbirdwell

Verify against your VIN but here are the part numbers for my 2005 E55:
Upper ball joint: A000-330-10-01, Lemfoerder $42 each, $84 total.
Front lower control arms (thrust arms): Lemfoerder 416578 Torque Strut kit (right and left arms) $250
Steering knuckle ball joints: 211-330-04-35 $172 (cost billed to me by independent MB repair shop)
Rear lower control arm: 211-330-81-07 $258 (cost billed to me by independent MB repair shop)
Rear lower control arm: 211-330-82-07 $258 (cost billed to me by independent MB repair shop)

Labor was ~$750 but all costs were incurred in July of 2021. Inflation will drive your cost up.

Yuille36

When I did my entire suspension, I replaced every suspension component, to include wheel bearings.
And that wasn't cheap. But I will say the ball joints, bushings, tie rods do go bad. But listen to bbirdwell, he very experienced.

testknight

Excellent info bbirdwell, I do appreciate you taking the time

nd-photo.nl

I performed a small overhaul on my 2005 CLS55 not too long ago. I took my time and fixed it over a couple of days, off course get it aligned afterwards. As @bbirdwell mentioned, you need the special tool as pictured below.





More pics in my build thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c219/8443...ml#post8616691

bbirdwell

And that, as demonstrated by Andy in the Netherlands, is the way to rebuild your front suspension!

nd-photo.nl

I only need to do the inner tie rods, as I didnt have the right tool for it. My tie rod tool didnt have the right insert for it (I believe its 41mm)

machild

Here in the US I have been able to buy indiviudal sized inserts for the inner tie rod end tool. I have bought 3 - 4 over the years.

nd-photo.nl

Ah good tip thx!

machild

Next time you coming this way just stop by and you're welcome to borrow whatever size you need. ;>)