I bought this car already lowered and with a lot of repairs done. Now things are wearing out and I am trying to replace them. Thing is some of the arms on this car are modified or off another car. I need to get under there and get some part numbers but it has been 105 for the last 40 days. When I did the front control arms they had an adjustable bushing that I have never seen before. I thought that was odd but replaced it with the factory part and moved on. Now the furthest rear control arm on the back needs replaced. All the factory ones have no adjustment but this one does. it is the same style where when you turn the bolt the bushing turns and appears to adjust the toe. so, 2 questions
1. what is the furthest rear arm on the rear suspension called?
2. has anyone used other factory parts from another model to add adjustability to their cars?

You must have aftermarket adjustable arms. I know there is a few companies that make them so somebody had to of put them on.

They are defintly factory mercedes arms. I have seen the adjustable aftermarket arms and am considering buying some to replace these. Both set up look as if they took the bushings out and replaced them with adjustable one.

Pictures of what you are trying to describe would go a long way towards people being able to help you.

I really would like to see them as well. I have never heard of adjustable factory arms !!

you’re right. I was just hoping someone could name the arm so i could do mor investigation online. I don’t have a garage and when I get home it has been 105 + the entire month so far.

The rearmost arm is the toe arm and your description is of Kmac adjustable bushings. I recommend you remove the stock arm and install UPD adjustable toe arms. Superior to the stock toe arms which adjust using eccentric bolts at their subframe attachment point. Lots of hysteresis with the stock adjusters.
Check to see if you have the Kmac adjustable bushings on the inner end of the alloy control arm. If so, I recommend reinstalling stock bushings as I did.
A photo would help.

This might help?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

Notes on the PelicanParts info. Figure one: AMG car uses a 14mm bolt, non-AMG uses a 12mm bolt.
Figure four: airmatic air springs make removing the inboard bolt a royal PITA . (Question: if I said it in French would it be a "PITA Royal"?) ​​​​

i think you are on to something i took a look under the car and see the adjustable lower bushing. can i ask why you suggest removing them?

I removed mine as I could *never* stop slippage. The 12mm bolts are torque-limited and, combined with alloy control arms made of a soft alloy, meant the teeth of the washers would just allow the metal alloy to "flow" and deform allowing the rear suspension to collapse as the wheels shifted to max camber (with associated max toe out). Each failure caused me multiple labor hours to analyze, evaluate, repair and reset. Each episode required a realignment of the rear wheels. I finally just gave up and learned the proper way to calibrate my suspension.

None of this should be taken as reflecting badly on Kevin at Kmac. He worked with me in an outstanding manner and sent multiple revisions in an attempt to correct the issue. I believe it just comes down to the design of the W211 rear Airmatic suspension. I explored using a 14mm bolt on the inboard end for greater clamping force but was tired of dealing with the issue. The Kmac W211 front adjustable bushings on my car were problem free and I strongly recommend them. I was quite pleased with them.

Can see do need to report in ! .... It’s all to do with constant / ongoing development (anything and everything can be improved).

....and at K-MAC we have not been sitting on our hands - in the endeavour to make up for the situation of OEM now only providing basic Toe “directional” adjustment.


The Rear W211 E55/63 AMG with “alloy” lower control arms. Have long since resolved the issue of “positively securing” mountings—along with the significant advantage over rear upper Camber arms in that can fit without arm removal. Plus fast / precise / easily accessible / single wrench adjustment (ultimate - direct on alignment rack “under load”).

While at trackside using a tire pyrometer can quickly test and dial in precise Camber settings for maximum traction.


Today’s Mercedes Benz models many now have alloy arms.

Therefore as attached K-MAC Rear W211 AMG instruction sheet shows the design breakthrough is that now all “alloy arm kits” the load is now entirely taken by “Steel Mounts” - not the alloy arms.

Rear Instruction sheet Click Here



Kit also includes extra Toe adjustment (doubling existing range) to cater for the new Camber facility.

#502526K $480 Both Sides.


Yes we do also manufacture rear upper Camber arms (and extra Toe) not soft extruded aluminum but 4140 grade steel. With end links proven long term maintenance free.

Kit#502526-1M $595 Pair But as set out above only real application upper arms have going for them - is if wanting to have “extra” (not less) negative Camber (to obtain more outer fender clearance to top of tire). As upper adjustment works opposite to lower arms. Top arms to resolve excess “inner edge wear” needs to reduce important clearance top of tire to outer fender.


W211 E55 / 63 AMG:


Kevin

Re Rear W211 E55, E63 AMG lower arm adjuster kit. It provides up to 2 degrees extra Positive or Negative Camber (#502526K) more then enough to resolve most tire wear / traction issues.

Another popular rear kit manufactured is set of 12 uprated bushes for the 6 multi link arms. Less twitch, flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake ! (#502528K) $480.

Kevin