E500 Faster Than E55??
#53
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Originally Posted by MB Fanatic
You might have a bad supercharger water pump. take it to the dealer and have them check it out. I had a bad one and you could really feel it. Anyways I checked out a pump Kleemann had as it was desgined specifically for the 55 engines and it works great. the pump that AMG uses is a stock water pump from any of MB's regular engines.
#54
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Originally Posted by Eleanor Owner
Aha! You were right. Took my car in for the brake recall and when I did I took a ride in the car with an EXTREMELY skeptical tech. who reluctantly agreed to test the water pump. He kept assuring me that everything was o.k. This was two days ago and the car STILL isn't done. I stopped in today to see what was up...low and behold my service rep. tells me that they are waiting on a water pump to arrive and the car should be done tomorrow. I knew something was wrong...Thanks for the help
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2004 SL55 AMG
Hey MB Fanatic:
Could you enlighten us bit further in how the Supercharger Water Pump fails and how do you properly diagnose that (positive test)? It would be a good fact for everyone to reference who has a 5.5L Kompressor V-8.
Thanks!
Could you enlighten us bit further in how the Supercharger Water Pump fails and how do you properly diagnose that (positive test)? It would be a good fact for everyone to reference who has a 5.5L Kompressor V-8.
Thanks!
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The pump that Mercedes and AMG use for the supercharger was not designed to move the coolant fast enough, nor was it designed to move the large quantity of coolant needed to cool the supercharger. This stress caused by the supercharger on the pump causes it to fail and therefore reduce the capabilities of your car resulting in powerloss. The pump they use is the stock pump thats found on their 5.0 liter engines.
#58
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Originally Posted by MB Fanatic
The pump that Mercedes and AMG use for the supercharger was not designed to move the coolant fast enough, nor was it designed to move the large quantity of coolant needed to cool the supercharger. This stress caused by the supercharger on the pump causes it to fail and therefore reduce the capabilities of your car resulting in powerloss. The pump they use is the stock pump thats found on their 5.0 liter engines.
A faster pump in conjunction with a better heat exchanger and a larger body of liquid will fix the intake temp issue but a pump alone is useless. The AMG system works ok for a stock motor and it can run all day long without having power cut to far. Could it be better yes but the solution is not a stronger pump.
These little mods might help a dyno pull for it might extend the lower charge air temps for 10 seconds over a stock car... but after the run its just as hot has a stock car. Go watch your intake air temps on a long freeway pull from say 40-140... its gets really hot really quickly... even on a 50 degree night.
Last edited by CynCarvin32; 11-12-2004 at 02:16 AM.
#60
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Originally Posted by RU_MATRX
Hey MB Fanatic:
Could you enlighten us bit further in how the Supercharger Water Pump fails and how do you properly diagnose that (positive test)? It would be a good fact for everyone to reference who has a 5.5L Kompressor V-8.
Thanks!
Could you enlighten us bit further in how the Supercharger Water Pump fails and how do you properly diagnose that (positive test)? It would be a good fact for everyone to reference who has a 5.5L Kompressor V-8.
Thanks!
He said his car felt slowest in 3rd gear and this just shows it got to warm and power was cut after racing through fist and second gear. Thats just how quickly the heat builds in the cooling system.
#61
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Well guys, the debate is over! I picked up the car today and the result was....A REPLACED INTAKE MANIFOLD?!?!
Yup boys, that's what I got. (I wonder why my rep. told me I was waiting on a water pump ) Anyway, I don't speak MB Jibborish very well, so I'll throw this one out there for anyone who can decode/decipher it's hidden message:
LINE OPCODE TECH TYPE HOURS
TO #39 AT ETC CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR 3 VOLTAGE SHOW 5 VOLTS WITH IGNITION ON, *TEST SIGNAL VOLTAGE OF B28 PRESSURE SENSOR PIN#9 AND 10 VOLTAGE SHOW 2.2 VOLT IGNITION ON AND WITH ENGINE RUNNING AT IDLE VOLTAGE SHOW 1.1 VOLTS, *R/R INTAKE MANIFOLD *REPLACED INTAKE MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR FAULTY CAUSING CAR IS LOW ON POWER ON HIGH WAY SPEED, *ROADTEST VEHICLE AFTER DONE. *WTY* 4256
****************NEXT PAGE*****************
A PERFORM CAMPAING#2004050014 211/230 SBC RECODING
CAUSE: 43910278-N O
024416 EXPANDED SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
024425 CONTROL UNIT - PROGRAM, PERFORM
676 W40
1 211-584-00-07 PLATE Q11
4256 PERFORM CAMPAIGN #2004050014 211 SBC RECODING *COMPLETED SBC RECODING AS PER CAMPAIGN . ***WTY***
*****************************************
B CLIENT STATES CAR FEEL POWER LOW ON HIGH WAY AFTER EXTENDED HARD ACCELERATION
CAUSE: MN
541011 SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
1 004-153-33-28 SENDER UNIT
541012 TEST PROGRAM - AFTER SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
541010 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, TEST / DETERMINE CONDITION
676 W40
141310 INTAKE MANIFOLD, R & R
676 W40
140000 REPLACE INTAKE SENSOR
676 W40
4259 CLIENT STATES CAR FEEL POWER LOW ON HIGH WAY AFTER EXTENDED HARD, *ROADTEST VEHICLE AND FUNCTION DIAGNOSIS CHECK, *PERFORM DTC READ OUT FAULT CODE, FOUND FAULT CODE IN ME #P2007 B28 PRESSURE SENSOR , *CHECK ACTUAL VALVE OF B28 PRESSURE SENSOR THE ACTUAL VALVE IS OK, *PERFORM ELECT TEST, TEST VOLTAGE SUPPLY OF COMPONENT B28 WITH SOCKET BOX PIN #9
*THATS ALL FOLKS*
Yup boys, that's what I got. (I wonder why my rep. told me I was waiting on a water pump ) Anyway, I don't speak MB Jibborish very well, so I'll throw this one out there for anyone who can decode/decipher it's hidden message:
LINE OPCODE TECH TYPE HOURS
TO #39 AT ETC CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR 3 VOLTAGE SHOW 5 VOLTS WITH IGNITION ON, *TEST SIGNAL VOLTAGE OF B28 PRESSURE SENSOR PIN#9 AND 10 VOLTAGE SHOW 2.2 VOLT IGNITION ON AND WITH ENGINE RUNNING AT IDLE VOLTAGE SHOW 1.1 VOLTS, *R/R INTAKE MANIFOLD *REPLACED INTAKE MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR FAULTY CAUSING CAR IS LOW ON POWER ON HIGH WAY SPEED, *ROADTEST VEHICLE AFTER DONE. *WTY* 4256
****************NEXT PAGE*****************
A PERFORM CAMPAING#2004050014 211/230 SBC RECODING
CAUSE: 43910278-N O
024416 EXPANDED SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
024425 CONTROL UNIT - PROGRAM, PERFORM
676 W40
1 211-584-00-07 PLATE Q11
4256 PERFORM CAMPAIGN #2004050014 211 SBC RECODING *COMPLETED SBC RECODING AS PER CAMPAIGN . ***WTY***
*****************************************
B CLIENT STATES CAR FEEL POWER LOW ON HIGH WAY AFTER EXTENDED HARD ACCELERATION
CAUSE: MN
541011 SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
1 004-153-33-28 SENDER UNIT
541012 TEST PROGRAM - AFTER SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
541010 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, TEST / DETERMINE CONDITION
676 W40
141310 INTAKE MANIFOLD, R & R
676 W40
140000 REPLACE INTAKE SENSOR
676 W40
4259 CLIENT STATES CAR FEEL POWER LOW ON HIGH WAY AFTER EXTENDED HARD, *ROADTEST VEHICLE AND FUNCTION DIAGNOSIS CHECK, *PERFORM DTC READ OUT FAULT CODE, FOUND FAULT CODE IN ME #P2007 B28 PRESSURE SENSOR , *CHECK ACTUAL VALVE OF B28 PRESSURE SENSOR THE ACTUAL VALVE IS OK, *PERFORM ELECT TEST, TEST VOLTAGE SUPPLY OF COMPONENT B28 WITH SOCKET BOX PIN #9
*THATS ALL FOLKS*
Last edited by zdkdeeier493; 11-12-2004 at 08:36 PM.
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2004 SL55 AMG
Hey Eleanor Owner:
I believe that its the intake manifold pressure sensors (2) that were out of spec voltage parameters at idle and ignition-on. The voltage readings seem inconsistent and not aligned with std spec so were considered "faulty." They r/r the intake manifold meaning that they "removed and re-installed it" charging warranty time in order to get to the sensors. Your MB service techs didn't replace the intake manifold. Hope that helps.
I believe that its the intake manifold pressure sensors (2) that were out of spec voltage parameters at idle and ignition-on. The voltage readings seem inconsistent and not aligned with std spec so were considered "faulty." They r/r the intake manifold meaning that they "removed and re-installed it" charging warranty time in order to get to the sensors. Your MB service techs didn't replace the intake manifold. Hope that helps.
#63
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2004 SL55 AMG
Hey CynCarvin32:
Thanks for the time and effort adding further details/insight on the process with intake temp. It helps to understand the basic process in the coolants ability to actually cool the engine to prevent timing retard that hurts power output. Pretty logical summary.
Thanks for the time and effort adding further details/insight on the process with intake temp. It helps to understand the basic process in the coolants ability to actually cool the engine to prevent timing retard that hurts power output. Pretty logical summary.
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Originally Posted by RU_MATRX
Hey Eleanor Owner:
I believe that its the intake manifold pressure sensors (2) that were out of spec voltage parameters at idle and ignition-on. The voltage readings seem inconsistent and not aligned with std spec so were considered "faulty." They r/r the intake manifold meaning that they "removed and re-installed it" charging warranty time in order to get to the sensors. Your MB service techs didn't replace the intake manifold. Hope that helps.
I believe that its the intake manifold pressure sensors (2) that were out of spec voltage parameters at idle and ignition-on. The voltage readings seem inconsistent and not aligned with std spec so were considered "faulty." They r/r the intake manifold meaning that they "removed and re-installed it" charging warranty time in order to get to the sensors. Your MB service techs didn't replace the intake manifold. Hope that helps.
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I am pretty sure they installed a New Manifold. Since I dont see how removing and reinstalling the same intake Manifold could solve the problem. I would ask your Service Advisor and tech as to what it is that they did exactly.
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2004 SL55 AMG
Originally Posted by Eleanor Owner
Thanks for the info. So did they in essence "fix" my car? Or is there still a chance of a faulty reading? I don't get how they can remove and then re-install the manifold and all of a sudden the problem is fixed. Thanks for all the help
They removed/re-installed the intake manifold in order to access and replace the (2) faulty pressure sensors that caused the loss of power at highway speeds. MB service techs list the r/r intake manifold description so that they can document the process. They submit std. rates for those warranty service hours on that procedure in order to retrieve compensation through MBUSA. The run-on description causes confusion, but there's no reason to replace the intake manifold unless it was cracked, leaking, defective, etc.. You can confirm this with your service advisor. I'm reading that the pressure sensors were out of std. voltage parameters causing incorrect intake pressure/temp readings to your ECU. PV=nRT.
Your ECU would then take these incorrect readings and make false/non-optimal corrections to timing/retard, air/fuel ratio at a given RPM hindering performance. It sounds like your dealer isolated the problem and considers it "fixed." Only you can fully assess that. Good Luck!
Last edited by RU_MATRX; 11-13-2004 at 04:52 PM.
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Hmm, I see as well. Thanks so much for the explanation. I have to say, I do feel a noticable difference when driving the car. It seems to hold its power much better than it did before. Thanks again!
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2004 SL55 AMG
I'm glad that your E55 is now running as it's expected for your full enjoyment Eleanor Owner. Btw, I noticed that you own (2) 2004 E55s one with Lorinser body modifications and (1) stock. Any particular reason of obtaining two of the same MY04 E55s. Just curious!
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BECAUSE THEYRE AWESOME! Haha, no actually my Dad bought his (the black one) first. The second it arrived I took it out for a spin and almost fainted. The guy who delivered the car to us (our broker) just "happened to mention" that he had placed another order for an E55 when my Dad's was completed but still had no buyer lined up and that under "the crazy instance" I would want one too, I could have it for $70k. Thats all he needed to say and I was first on the list. To his dismay, almost every day for the next few months while I was waiting for my car I was driving my Dad's car. What can I say, I couldn't help it Sooner than later, however, my car was at the doorstep. I added the mods to my car because I'm in search of that more aggressive look. After the mustang (Eleanor) sells Im getting a set of the 65 series AMG wheels, painted badges to match the wheels, carbon fiber Brabus front lip spoiler and mayyyybe a carbon fiber diffuser (if I can find one that is). My Dad wants to keep his stock although he does like the smoked lights...Maybe I've got another project car on my hands
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No. Unfortunately neither of them have Xenons. Since we each got our cars without being able to select our own options, the vehicles are lacking in some areas. Nevertheless, an E55 is an E55 and we couldn't be happier. I might opt for an upgrade to some OEM Xenons but I doubt it.
#74
Originally Posted by Stephen04E55
Chirp into second gear?? My '04 will never do this in any shift mode. Maybe the '05 cars have a revamped tranny program? Who else has an '05 that actually shifts quick enough to evoke a "chirp?" Mine is just like Beowulf's car... All of the cars I drove at the AMG challenge shifted exactly the same way....lazy and smooth but still pulling. SL55, CL55, CLK55, and S55 seemed to shift the same.
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2017 S63 Coupe Iridium Silver
Race your dad, than swap cars and race again. You will be surprised how much difference a good/bad launch can make.
Then test both cars on a G-tech or a dyno, followed by a trip to your dealer if necessary.
Another important aspect is how you broke-in your engine from new. If you did it nice and easy, never over 4000RPM for 1000miles bla, bla bla, and did not seal the piston rings properly in the first 20 miles or so with a few hard runs to the red line and back again with engine compression slowing you down, you car may be lazy - an irreversible condition affecting all Camrys ...LOL
Then test both cars on a G-tech or a dyno, followed by a trip to your dealer if necessary.
Another important aspect is how you broke-in your engine from new. If you did it nice and easy, never over 4000RPM for 1000miles bla, bla bla, and did not seal the piston rings properly in the first 20 miles or so with a few hard runs to the red line and back again with engine compression slowing you down, you car may be lazy - an irreversible condition affecting all Camrys ...LOL
Last edited by Rafal; 12-07-2005 at 11:08 PM.