I agree...At first I thought it'd be helpful, now

 

Aha! You were right. Took my car in for the brake recall and when I did I took a ride in the car with an EXTREMELY skeptical tech. who reluctantly agreed to test the water pump. He kept assuring me that everything was o.k. This was two days ago and the car STILL isn't done. I stopped in today to see what was up...low and behold my service rep. tells me that they are waiting on a water pump to arrive and the car should be done tomorrow. I knew something was wrong...Thanks for the help

 

No problem. I had the same problem as you. I could tell the car wasn't working to its full potential. They replaced it once, and then it went out again. So I decided to get the pump Kleemann desgined. Its a better pump, thats more durable and built to the needs of the supercharger.

 

Hey MB Fanatic:

Could you enlighten us bit further in how the Supercharger Water Pump fails and how do you properly diagnose that (positive test)? It would be a good fact for everyone to reference who has a 5.5L Kompressor V-8.

Thanks!

 

The pump that Mercedes and AMG use for the supercharger was not designed to move the coolant fast enough, nor was it designed to move the large quantity of coolant needed to cool the supercharger. This stress caused by the supercharger on the pump causes it to fail and therefore reduce the capabilities of your car resulting in powerloss. The pump they use is the stock pump thats found on their 5.0 liter engines.

 

Where can I find one one of the Kleeman water pumps? Also, what is the cost and who can install it for me? Thanks for the help by the way.

 

Many tuners have told me a far different story. First off the speed of the pump has nothing to do with cooling ability. If you have a body of liquid, the body of liquid will get hot after some driving with load. Once hot who cares how fast u move it.... its still to hot! The reason his car is slow right now is that once the ecu reads coolant temps above a specific point it cuts the blower so it does not create any more heat. Some people say a larger body of water will fix the heat issue. Wrong again. It will simply take a bit longer for the water to get hot... but once hot guess what? It takes longer to cool off and power is cut longer. If you cant exchange the heat... fluid speed and fluid volume is not going to help.

A faster pump in conjunction with a better heat exchanger and a larger body of liquid will fix the intake temp issue but a pump alone is useless. The AMG system works ok for a stock motor and it can run all day long without having power cut to far. Could it be better yes but the solution is not a stronger pump.

These little mods might help a dyno pull for it might extend the lower charge air temps for 10 seconds over a stock car... but after the run its just as hot has a stock car. Go watch your intake air temps on a long freeway pull from say 40-140... its gets really hot really quickly... even on a 50 degree night.

 

I dont remember where I got mine from, but I would check with Kleemann directly. And as for the install, my dealer did it for me. Didnt even charge me.

 

You could check if it activates by using the DAS computer but like with his car, power loss is the best sign. If you have power down low and then it falls off quickly chances are the motor is getting to warm and DME is dialing back timing and cutting the blower to compensates for the excessive heat. In this case there is NO flow of coolant and the motor cant keep in the specified bounders of operation.

He said his car felt slowest in 3rd gear and this just shows it got to warm and power was cut after racing through fist and second gear. Thats just how quickly the heat builds in the cooling system.

 

Well guys, the debate is over! I picked up the car today and the result was....A REPLACED INTAKE MANIFOLD?!?!

Yup boys, that's what I got. (I wonder why my rep. told me I was waiting on a water pump ) Anyway, I don't speak MB Jibborish very well, so I'll throw this one out there for anyone who can decode/decipher it's hidden message:

LINE OPCODE TECH TYPE HOURS
TO #39 AT ETC CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR 3 VOLTAGE SHOW 5 VOLTS WITH IGNITION ON, *TEST SIGNAL VOLTAGE OF B28 PRESSURE SENSOR PIN#9 AND 10 VOLTAGE SHOW 2.2 VOLT IGNITION ON AND WITH ENGINE RUNNING AT IDLE VOLTAGE SHOW 1.1 VOLTS, *R/R INTAKE MANIFOLD *REPLACED INTAKE MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR FAULTY CAUSING CAR IS LOW ON POWER ON HIGH WAY SPEED, *ROADTEST VEHICLE AFTER DONE. *WTY* 4256

****************NEXT PAGE*****************
A PERFORM CAMPAING#2004050014 211/230 SBC RECODING
CAUSE: 43910278-N O
024416 EXPANDED SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
024425 CONTROL UNIT - PROGRAM, PERFORM
676 W40
1 211-584-00-07 PLATE Q11
4256 PERFORM CAMPAIGN #2004050014 211 SBC RECODING *COMPLETED SBC RECODING AS PER CAMPAIGN . ***WTY***
*****************************************
B CLIENT STATES CAR FEEL POWER LOW ON HIGH WAY AFTER EXTENDED HARD ACCELERATION
CAUSE: MN
541011 SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
1 004-153-33-28 SENDER UNIT
541012 TEST PROGRAM - AFTER SHORT TEST, PERFORM
676 W40
541010 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, TEST / DETERMINE CONDITION
676 W40
141310 INTAKE MANIFOLD, R & R
676 W40
140000 REPLACE INTAKE SENSOR
676 W40

4259 CLIENT STATES CAR FEEL POWER LOW ON HIGH WAY AFTER EXTENDED HARD, *ROADTEST VEHICLE AND FUNCTION DIAGNOSIS CHECK, *PERFORM DTC READ OUT FAULT CODE, FOUND FAULT CODE IN ME #P2007 B28 PRESSURE SENSOR , *CHECK ACTUAL VALVE OF B28 PRESSURE SENSOR THE ACTUAL VALVE IS OK, *PERFORM ELECT TEST, TEST VOLTAGE SUPPLY OF COMPONENT B28 WITH SOCKET BOX PIN #9

*THATS ALL FOLKS*

 

Hey Eleanor Owner:

I believe that its the intake manifold pressure sensors (2) that were out of spec voltage parameters at idle and ignition-on. The voltage readings seem inconsistent and not aligned with std spec so were considered "faulty." They r/r the intake manifold meaning that they "removed and re-installed it" charging warranty time in order to get to the sensors. Your MB service techs didn't replace the intake manifold. Hope that helps.

 

Hey CynCarvin32:

Thanks for the time and effort adding further details/insight on the process with intake temp. It helps to understand the basic process in the coolants ability to actually cool the engine to prevent timing retard that hurts power output. Pretty logical summary.

 

Thanks for the info. So did they in essence "fix" my car? Or is there still a chance of a faulty reading? I don't get how they can remove and then re-install the manifold and all of a sudden the problem is fixed. Thanks for all the help

 

I am pretty sure they installed a New Manifold. Since I dont see how removing and reinstalling the same intake Manifold could solve the problem. I would ask your Service Advisor and tech as to what it is that they did exactly.

 

They removed/re-installed the intake manifold in order to access and replace the (2) faulty pressure sensors that caused the loss of power at highway speeds. MB service techs list the r/r intake manifold description so that they can document the process. They submit std. rates for those warranty service hours on that procedure in order to retrieve compensation through MBUSA. The run-on description causes confusion, but there's no reason to replace the intake manifold unless it was cracked, leaking, defective, etc.. You can confirm this with your service advisor. I'm reading that the pressure sensors were out of std. voltage parameters causing incorrect intake pressure/temp readings to your ECU. PV=nRT.

Your ECU would then take these incorrect readings and make false/non-optimal corrections to timing/retard, air/fuel ratio at a given RPM hindering performance. It sounds like your dealer isolated the problem and considers it "fixed." Only you can fully assess that. Good Luck!

 

Ah thanks for the explanation Dave.

 

Hmm, I see as well. Thanks so much for the explanation. I have to say, I do feel a noticable difference when driving the car. It seems to hold its power much better than it did before. Thanks again!

 

I'm glad that your E55 is now running as it's expected for your full enjoyment Eleanor Owner. Btw, I noticed that you own (2) 2004 E55s one with Lorinser body modifications and (1) stock. Any particular reason of obtaining two of the same MY04 E55s. Just curious!

 

BECAUSE THEYRE AWESOME! Haha, no actually my Dad bought his (the black one) first. The second it arrived I took it out for a spin and almost fainted. The guy who delivered the car to us (our broker) just "happened to mention" that he had placed another order for an E55 when my Dad's was completed but still had no buyer lined up and that under "the crazy instance" I would want one too, I could have it for $70k. Thats all he needed to say and I was first on the list. To his dismay, almost every day for the next few months while I was waiting for my car I was driving my Dad's car. What can I say, I couldn't help it Sooner than later, however, my car was at the doorstep. I added the mods to my car because I'm in search of that more aggressive look. After the mustang (Eleanor) sells Im getting a set of the 65 series AMG wheels, painted badges to match the wheels, carbon fiber Brabus front lip spoiler and mayyyybe a carbon fiber diffuser (if I can find one that is). My Dad wants to keep his stock although he does like the smoked lights...Maybe I've got another project car on my hands

 

Hey Eleanore Owner do any of your E55's have xenon's on them???

 

No. Unfortunately neither of them have Xenons. Since we each got our cars without being able to select our own options, the vehicles are lacking in some areas. Nevertheless, an E55 is an E55 and we couldn't be happier. I might opt for an upgrade to some OEM Xenons but I doubt it.

 

That is one mod you should consider. There is a large difference and you will love it at night.

 

My E55 (all stock) will spin wheels straight through 1st gear and chirp into second gear without a problem. As I am still breaking in the engine, I haven't beat on it too much, but I have to say, if an e500 kept up with you, something is wrong with your car. Are you sure it is an E55? Look under your hood for the supercharger..

 

Race your dad, than swap cars and race again. You will be surprised how much difference a good/bad launch can make.
Then test both cars on a G-tech or a dyno, followed by a trip to your dealer if necessary.
Another important aspect is how you broke-in your engine from new. If you did it nice and easy, never over 4000RPM for 1000miles bla, bla bla, and did not seal the piston rings properly in the first 20 miles or so with a few hard runs to the red line and back again with engine compression slowing you down, you car may be lazy - an irreversible condition affecting all Camrys ...LOL