6.2AMG

Hey
so i bought smoked out side markers for my w212 and one side always lets in god damn moisture!! it took me an hour to put each one on and unless there is a much simpler way to remove them then i dont feel like wasting an hour for it...
does anybody know of any tricks to remove w212 side markers relatively easily? CUZ THERES NOOO WAYYYY IN HELL THAT THE MB PPL TAKE AN HOUR TO REMOVE THEM!! or maybe have a trick to remove condensation w/o removing them?
thanks again

otakki

I wonder how the condensation gets in there. Is there a sealing ring around it? You might want to consider removing (sorry) that one side and put some clear silicon around it before putting it back on. Also you might want to throw the sidemarker into a bucket of desiccant for a few hours to get rid of the moisture.

I used clear silicon in the past with other cars I have and no moisture ever gets in. Definitely use some clear silicon for any future endeavor. Of course the problem with silicon is it is messy and dirt sticks to it and will make things unsightly if applied incorrectly. Nowadays, I don't mod and just leave everything the way it is from the factory to avoid headaches like this...boy I'm getting old.

Vic55

Well FWIW none of the markers are literally sealed to the paint so I am not sure exactly how its occurring. Maybe there is too much of an opening somewhere allowing in the water?

I do know the fit should be very snug on the E63's... This is why I just take the stock markers and get them painted. Perfect fit.

Raygt3

A hair drier on moderate heat and a bit of time and patience will dry them out. And nothing has to come apart.

6.2AMG

yea i tried the hairdryer but i think i didnt give it too much of a chance....then a day later i brought it to my dealer they took it out...i was thinking of putting clear silicon around it once it was cleared from water (i even bought the darn silicon!!) then the day i wanted to do it i got a bit lazy then the next morning it freaking rained and consequently create the same kind of moisture ... lol hahaha my luck...and yea if i decide to remove them myself ill most prolly go with the oem and paint them... i even bought one of those computer air pressure cleaner cans and tried and spray some in around the corners and nothing was going in AT ALL...so my guess is that its either from the inside if thats even possible or the gap is extremely small....either way...its really annoying!!

Raygt3

Actually heard of water runnung down the wire and or insulation into the fixture. Strange, I know, but if it's possible it will happen sooner or later. So the fixture wasn't leaking but the water was just following the wire. Not saying this is your case but don't count out anything.

otakki

Yes, that too can happen and is truly a big headache if it does. If that's the case, it means electrical problem and rusting from the inside is also a possibility.

E-Ridium 63

There has to be hole in your marker unit. The markers are a single piece unit so there shouldn't be any gaps in the marker unless it was a shoddy molding joband you have a crack in the unit somewhere.

As for removing. No, it doesn't take an hour to remove one, but it does take somewhere between 30-40 mins to do both, longer if you're not versed at it....its a real PITA to remove the bulb from an aftermarket side marker.

6.2AMG

yea well i'm starting to think i have a hole too... do you know how to remove the markers in 30 mins? i'd love to know how...

E-Ridium 63

Check out this thread.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...demarkers.html

Couple of pointers from my end:

1) You have to partially remove the wheel well cover. To do this turn the wheel all the way to the right when you're working on the left corner and vica versa when working on the other. This way you will be able to access the push pins that secure the cover. There are two push pins that you need to remove, one near the bottom and one around the same height as the marker. To remove the pins, there is a center pin the you need to pull out first, then you can go ahead and remove the larger pieces. Hard to explain with out pics. I'll try and take some pics tonight and post. BTW, don't go buy a push pin remover. All you need is a thin screw driver and a pair of pliers.

2) Once you partially remove the pins, peel the cover back and slip your hands into the crevice. Its a tight fit, but you should be able to get in there.

3) First thing you need to do is feel for the bulb connector. You need to remove the bulb connector from the houseing before you can pop out the corners. Twist and then pull the bulb out.

4) Next, take a look at the pics in that thread above. There are two pieces to the corner. The black piece sits behind the fender. You'll notice there is a tab that holds the two pieces together. Feel for that tab (it is located on the end of the corner that is closest to the front doors). Push the tab to release and then push the corner marker out. It swings on a hinge on the opposite end of the corner piece. Be careful to hold on to the black piece that is still behind the fender. Don't let it fall down. I made that mistake and it took me forever to get in there to retrieve it.

5) Now if you have the clear corners and you want to change bulbs, do it now. The ones in there shine a bit yellow. Also, if you've bought the corners off ebay or something, the bulb housing isn't always "German Accurate" in terms of fit. So i suggest before you re-assemble everything, screw the light blub into the socket of the new corner and then take it out again and see if it does so smoothly. if not, you might have to smooth out some of the edges on the clear corner housing. I found this out the hard way and it has become tough for me to remove one of the bulbs after i installed it. HUGE PITA!

6) Once that is done, you're ready to put everything back inside. Start with holding the black piece inside the bumper and manouever the clear corner so the latch hinges onto the black piece and then snap the pieces back together.

7) Screw in the light bulb and put the wheel well back together with the push pins.

Let me know if you have other questions. Happy to try and point you in the right direction.

6.2AMG

thanks sooooo much for all the tips!!! i really appreciate it!!
ill definitely try and do it tomorrow with that very helpful advice in mind !! let you know how it went!

E-Ridium 63

Glad I could help. Let us know how it turned out.

NickyBlack

Same here, remove, sand, paint, reinstall, finished

6.2AMG

yea so i ended up taking the marker out,draining it,then sealing it with as much clear silicone...put it back in and already i see signs of condensation....so weird....this is a bigger mystery than i anticipated.... hmmmm

Vic55

Take your stock ones to a local body shop- have them painted to match and you will end your condensation nightmares.

Raygt3

Ironic but the agent that makes silicone RTV dry or "set up" is moisture. So you may be drawing in additional moisture into the mix by using the silicone. Painting won't fix the problem, just won't be able to see it. Still potiental corrosion damage to connectors, plugs, wiring etc. due to excesss moisture. It might help if you used a quality silicone grease on the connector and connections to reduce exposure to moisture. Stuff is easy to use just apply as you would regular grease to surfaces you'd want to protect. The grease does not adsorb moisture so will seal some of the potiental areas that might be a cause of your miisture problem. Although the primary use is not as a sealant. And holds up good under extreme temps. Well said too much already so have a go at, I think you've got the idea.

6.2AMG

I will definately go buy some silicone grease and lube up the wires...i obviously want to prevent rusting or shorting the wires...

6.2AMG

was a very rainy day here in Montreal and my silicone covered side marker lol outlasted the "wet test"