Won't get into the MF/residual details, just flat out results:

$108,xxx MSRP
10k miles/yr
$2500 down (incl 1st month payment)
$1325/month

How does that relate to your deal? Great? Average? Bad?

 

Also - pulling the trigger today, appreciate quick guidance. I have searched thoroughly and found some info, but not a tremendous amount, esp recent (although I am interested in anyone/everyone who has purchased a 14/15).

 

deleted

 

Thx. What is your payment and how much down?

 

Impossible to assess OP's deal without knowing the selling price, MF and residual. If leasing do the 10 MSDs and autopay for a big reduction in MF and therefore monthly payments if y can afford MSDs and do not pay a cap cost reduction as that money is lost in the event the car is stolen/totaled during the term of the lease while MSDs are refunded.

 

I get that MF/residual etc are important but they are functional elements that make up what I'm looking for - the end result out of pocket folks are paying for this car on a lease.

For example, if someone says "my car MSRP'd at $106k, I did $2500 down and pay $1500/month", someone else says "my car MSRP'd at $110k, I did $2500 down and pay $1450 a month" that starts to tell me I got a decent deal, understanding that mathematically the car can't be any less than "x" per month and "y" down payment without significant adjustment to MSRP/trunk money. Make sense? If someone has a way they were able to manipulate MSD's/etc to reduce their out of pocket costs, I'm all in to hear that, but first things first...what were the out of pocket costs?

 

I don't understand threads like this.

Five factors at work:
1) MSRP
2) Agreed upon Selling Price
3) Residual in either dollars or % based on months and miles
4) Money factor
5) Any other fees


That's the only way I know of to analyze one deal versus another. Looking at one monthly payment versus another is meaningless, unless in the same month, with the same credit score, on the same vehicle, in the same market, in the same etc etc etc.

One deal might include sales tax, another might not. Well, then what's the sales tax rate? And on what portion of the deal's value? Some deals might include recurring excise or other property tax.

You're not buying a KIA for $179 per month...

$0.02

 

Good point on the sales tax. Sales tax is roughly $40/month of that. So minus sales tax looking at $1285/month.

The other points not so much, at least for the purpose of this ask. I dont want to dissect the MF, residual, etc. to find the absolute best deal, I just want to know if this one looks good compared to others' experiences. If I told you the MSRP was $108k, Im putting $2500 down, and paying $1325/month. With no other elements involved - no cap reduction, no MSD's, nothing else...good deal or no?

I understand we can review the MF to see if there is more room in the deal to bring the payment down through reduced interest. I understand we could look at the buy price vs the MSRP to determine if there is more room to negotiate down. But given the parameters above, one should be able to quickly come to the conclusion on if this is a good deal or not. The bottom line out of pocket costs are a function of all the parameters you refer to. One may not be able to answer the question "you can get it down to xyz because the MF is not at top tier, etc etc" - that's fine, I get it. But given the above one should be able to simply look and say yep, looks like a good deal. I paid x for mine. Ballpark, swag discussion give or take a few bucks vs exact "how do I get a better deal" discussion.

 

+1

Looking at leases from a monthly payment perspective is exactly what car dealerships want you to do so they can snooker you into paying more than you should. The monthly payment is merely a product of all of the components of the lease. The goal of lease negotiation is to get those components as favorable as possible. The end product is the lowest monthly payment possible.

If you want to get a great monthly payment you have to drive for the lowest possible selling price and the lowest possible money factor. Insist on the base rate money factor without a mark up as dealers try to mark up the money factor. And insist on the lowest possible selling price taking into account any available manufacturer to dealer incentives and fleet discounts that you may be able to realize if you're a member of certain organizations like the American Bar Association or the American Medical Association or if you are a united airlines premier rewards member.

Also insist on paying no more than the $795 Mercedes lease acquisition fee as dealers try to mark this up too.

And using MSDs with Autopay or Single Pay (making all lease payments up front which lowers the money factor by .00080) to lower the lease money factor is hardly manipulation of anything. It's an incredible way for you to get a much lower money factor which yields you a far greater return on your investment than you ever would make in any conservative investment you could make.

 

OK, thanks. Let me try it this way as a start, then maybe get into the details, I get it.

What was your MSRP, your selling price, and your monthly payment?

 

Yes that is the way to look at it. And add money factor, residual, acquisition fee paid, miles per year on the lease and whether taxes are in the monthly payment.

 

either way hammer the dealer and don't fall for the "what payment per month do you want and don't worry about the price sir" from the salesrobot

can't wait until we can buy direct

 

I think getting into a 108K E63S for $1325/mo incl tax with almost 0 down (since the first month is in the $2500) is an amazing deal.

 

I bought mine in September of last year , one of the first cars in the states. Payment is $1287 incl fla sales tax. A check for 5k total down incl all fees for 36 months with 10k miles a year. I had a 103 sticker car. Hope that helps.


Btw. I change cars all the time and I'm still not tired of the e63S almost a year later. I couldn't think of another car I'd trade it for that could accomplish all the things the E63 does. Good luck

 

Sorry to hijack your thread OP but hat kind of money factor you guys get quoted?
I tried several dealerships and they all seem to say money factor is not great for AMG cars. Range starts @ 0.0025. Is that true?
Oh and by the way what does MSD mean?

 

Try going through an auto leasing broker. Try David at VIPLEASE.com.

I got my car through him for $4,000 under invoice. They gave me a great lease rate too. His phone is:

718-477-7888

 

 

Anyone know the August #'s - MF, residual on 7500, 10k, 12k?

 

I would also post this question in the leasing forum on MBWorld and the Mercedes E class leasing forum on Edmunds.com.

 

I recently asked on edmunds and the result was for 10k MF ranges from 0.00195 to 0.00225. Residual is 56%.
But I got quoted a 60% res with 0.0026 MF recently from several dealerships. They are trying to make more profit by increasing the money factor!!!! And make you feel you have a deal by discount few thousands off MSRP!!!

 

.0026 is highway robbery

 

.0026 is highway robbery


I second that


ALL - if you are new to leasing you need to slow down and walk away. Get your facts and figures sorted and then go shopping. Leasing ends up being bad for anyone going through buying process too fast or on emotion - those dealers will get ya'

 

Isn't the money factor based on your Credit Score?

 

MB does have a range for the money factor depending on its assessment of the leasee's creditworthiness BUT the dealer can and (if you don't know better) WILL mark up that money factor to make more money in the lease deal. They are also allowed to mark up the $795 acquisition fee.

 

Anyone know top tier MF for aug?