amg guy

iTrader: (1)

Pretty simple deal. Save a bunch of money.

You'll need the following

New brake pads, and sensor and about an hour of your time.

Ballpin hammer
3/16" punch
13mm socket
flat blade screw driver
17mm socket to remove wheel
Small needle nose pliers
Floor Jack

Benz made this really easy to change pads. You do not remove the calipers unless you are changing the rotors. Unlike previous cars with the SBC module, you do not have a SBC to unplug.

Jack up the car, remove the wheel. On the caliper you'll see two pins that hold in the brake pads. Take the hammer and the 3/16" drift punch and knock the pins out of the caliper. You may have to wiggle them slightly to get them all the way out. Once you've done that the retaining clip can be removed. Pay attention to which way the clip is mounted for reinstallation. There is a bolt that is located on the back side of the caliper. It is a 13mm. You'll have to remove that bolt and remove the bar before you can remove the pads. Take the flat blade screwdriver and gently pry the pad away from the disc pushing the pad back towards the caliper. The pad is easily removed once there is enough space. Remove and replace each pad one at at time. Install the bar, clip and pins in reverse order and replace the wheel and retorque to spec. The car only had one brake pad sensor for both tires up front. You'll be able to remove it with the pad or if it isn't not damaged pull it away from the pad with the needle nose pliers.

After you have done the first wheel assembly. Go in the car and pump the brake pedal so you don't overflow the master cylinder. Repeat for the opposite side. Remember to pump the brakes before you go and drive the car.

BerndV

Good info! I was under the impression that the rotors needed to be replaced at the same time as the pads.

amg guy

iTrader: (1)

As long as they measure within spec. I had the dealer check the thickness of the pads and rotors during service. Then I did the pads myself

otakki

Subscribed for good DIY's like this. Didn't know there is a 13mm bolt holding the pads in. From another video I saw, the 13mm bolt is not there for the rear brake pad change. I believe the sensor is only on the passenger side, right? I have read about spray WD40 on the sensor to help with moving and not breaking the sensor.

screw991le

How may miles (mostly city) are you guy seeing out of a set of pads? I am on my third set at 56000 miles, the rears seem to go first.

0 miles new
26000 miles new rotor and pads on all four
56000 miles on just pads

for me.

F1MB

I need help I'm the second owner of a 2007 E63, I bought the car last August with 37,000 miles and the breaks had 80% life I'm down to 30% and the dealer wants to charge me for brakes and rotors. Do I need the rotors or can I just do the pads and replace the rotors next time? Looks like I hear mix answers.

Thanks!

gaspam

you can skip the rotors if their not worn down past min thickness, i have done it plenty of times with no problems

F1MB

Awesome! Thanks!

screw991le

Yes, I am changing mine right now and the rotors have plenty left on them. Exp at $1200 just for the fronts.

otakki

Indeed, only change whatever is worn out. 30% left is still plenty left.

F1MB

The dealer said that the rotors have a lip, what does that mean?
After you guys advice…just going with pads this time.

gaspam

Seeing a ridge is pretty normal with the stock pads/rotors. Something has to wear in the friction relationship between pad and rotor...All lips are not created equal, Some are from the rotor wearing the material down, some are from rust building the edges up.

As a very rough guide if the lip on the outside edges of the rotor is less than one sixteenth of an inch or one millimeter there is a chance the rotors still have life in them.

as long as the rotor is within thickness spec then you are fine

F1MB

so much to learn! You're a beast! Thanks!
How do you like E63 S?
I miss my 2009 C63, just the sound alone….
I do think my E63 is a better handling and the feed back is better

gaspam

Like the e63s way better... No traction issues anymore and way more refined though the c63 with long tube headers was fun to startle people by blipping the throttle as it was loud as hell

Wongbenz

10speed

Just take the bolt out and remove the bar, use blue loctite to reinstall the bolt not sure what torque spec ,I used the German torque wrench goodntight

FastWgn

Nice writeup!
One small addition.
usually not needed to pump between wheels.but make sure to unscrew the cap before starting. Feel free to leave a rolled up paper towel around the opening in case of flowover.

Lastly - when pumping, use your hand and only pump the normal travel distance of the pedal. if you pump all the way to the bottom, you may get unlucky and wear/tear seals in the assembly. HIGHLY unlikely on a new car like ours, but can happen once they get to be a few years older (esp is living in hot and dry climates). Just good "work hygiene" and means you are pumping or or two more strokes. No big effort addition!

Boostaddict

rediesel

The rears are even easier. Just knock out the pins, remove the clamp and pads and reinstall.