My E63 2014 Stop Detecting the Key Fob
#1
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Thread Starter
My E63 2014 Stop Detecting the Key Fob
My car, today, out of the blue, stopped detecting the key fob, so I had to press the unlock button on the key fob to open its doors, and had to remove the engine start/stop button to turn on the engine using the key.
Batteries are brand new, bought from a MB dealer in early March. Also the car is not recognizing any of my two key fobs.
Does anyone know how to solve this?
Batteries are brand new, bought from a MB dealer in early March. Also the car is not recognizing any of my two key fobs.
Does anyone know how to solve this?
#2
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Probably has to go back to the dealer for programming. Weird that it lost the signal for both on fresh batteries though.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well early March means 2 months old.... hum enough to have the batteries drained for some odd reasons. It is either that or your keyless module acting up.
Are all the electronic in your car working? It could be a blown fuse. But I don't think there is one specific fuse for the keyless go. To me that module is attached to other rear modules in the car . So if the fuse trips not only the keyless will not work but probably your rear lights or rear sunshade would not work. Check with your dealer.
Are all the electronic in your car working? It could be a blown fuse. But I don't think there is one specific fuse for the keyless go. To me that module is attached to other rear modules in the car . So if the fuse trips not only the keyless will not work but probably your rear lights or rear sunshade would not work. Check with your dealer.
#4
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Tsb on this ... take to dealer
also keep in mind that "new" batteries can sit on a shelf for months and go bad
either way you shouldn't have to pay a dime the dealer will help
you can get a 2032 battery and replace the keyfob battery and see if it works to save you hassle for a small cost (Amazon has them dirt cheap)
also keep in mind that "new" batteries can sit on a shelf for months and go bad
either way you shouldn't have to pay a dime the dealer will help
you can get a 2032 battery and replace the keyfob battery and see if it works to save you hassle for a small cost (Amazon has them dirt cheap)
#5
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Originally Posted by abcut973
Well early March means 2 months old.... hum enough to have the batteries drained for some odd reasons. It is either that or your keyless module acting up.
Are all the electronic in your car working? It could be a blown fuse. But I don't think there is one specific fuse for the keyless go. To me that module is attached to other rear modules in the car . So if the fuse trips not only the keyless will not work but probably your rear lights or rear sunshade would not work. Check with your dealer.
Are all the electronic in your car working? It could be a blown fuse. But I don't think there is one specific fuse for the keyless go. To me that module is attached to other rear modules in the car . So if the fuse trips not only the keyless will not work but probably your rear lights or rear sunshade would not work. Check with your dealer.
I will try new batteries tonight.
If nothing works I will have to pay a visit to the dealer, which I definitely do not want to.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Unplug your keyless go module (or disconnect the battery and let the whole car reset), sometimes they lock into a mode where they will not communicate until reset. We have to disconnect them to even get the scan tool to connect to it to perform the update.
It will happen again without the revised software. GO TO THE DEALER
#9
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Sometimes people live a long way from a dealer and it is incredibly inconvenient ... he's just looking to optimize his time ... give him a break
both keyfobs doing same thing?
both keyfobs doing same thing?
#10
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He said it was both fobs dead, that's why I suggested a hard reset of the KG module, they do lock up from time to time.
#11
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Sometimes people live a long way from a dealer and it is incredibly inconvenient ... he's just looking to optimize his time ... give him a break
both keyfobs doing same thing?
both keyfobs doing same thing?
Any clue on how to unplug the Keyless Go module?
And the battery (there are two, which of them/or both of them should I disconnect)?
#12
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
I know that's why i'm trying to help anyway but in some cases, you don't have a way to update the software yourself.
He said it was both fobs dead, that's why I suggested a hard reset of the KG module, they do lock up from time to time.
He said it was both fobs dead, that's why I suggested a hard reset of the KG module, they do lock up from time to time.
#13
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I'd have to look up where exactly it is on the 212, I normally just disconnect the battery. Your car has the big battery in the trunk and the tiny auxiliary battery also next to it correct? I would disconnect both, press the brake pedal or try to activate the flashers, either way that will pull the remaining charge out of the systems. Then let it sit a few minutes and reconnect. You will know immediately if your keys go back to working or not.
I think the module is under the seat but I can't seem to remember a 212 one. I know the ML it's under the second row, but on the sedans that's not a space for modules like the trucks. I'll look tomorrow and report back if you want.
I think the module is under the seat but I can't seem to remember a 212 one. I know the ML it's under the second row, but on the sedans that's not a space for modules like the trucks. I'll look tomorrow and report back if you want.
#14
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
I'd have to look up where exactly it is on the 212, I normally just disconnect the battery. Your car has the big battery in the trunk and the tiny auxiliary battery also next to it correct? I would disconnect both, press the brake pedal or try to activate the flashers, either way that will pull the remaining charge out of the systems. Then let it sit a few minutes and reconnect. You will know immediately if your keys go back to working or not.
I think the module is under the seat but I can't seem to remember a 212 one. I know the ML it's under the second row, but on the sedans that's not a space for modules like the trucks. I'll look tomorrow and report back if you want.
I think the module is under the seat but I can't seem to remember a 212 one. I know the ML it's under the second row, but on the sedans that's not a space for modules like the trucks. I'll look tomorrow and report back if you want.
#15
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Same deal then. I think technically the rear battery is isolated unless the car is using it for eco stop-start but it's one 10mm nut, disconnect it anyway.
#16
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Same deal then. I think technically the rear battery is isolated unless the car is using it for eco stop-start but it's one 10mm nut, disconnect it anyway.
A big thank you for everybody who helped here and an special one to ItalianJoe1!
#18
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Nice; issue may come back but at least you have a stop gap
#19
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Yeah the update will ensure it doesn't happen again.
For future reference, the KG module is back near the rear fuse box on the right side of the trunk, it's hard to get at, so if this happens, the best thing is just to do as he did and pull the batteries for a bit to get it alive again.
For future reference, the KG module is back near the rear fuse box on the right side of the trunk, it's hard to get at, so if this happens, the best thing is just to do as he did and pull the batteries for a bit to get it alive again.