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Front drive shafts - do they break often on our cars?
Question for the group - are our CV joints, and esp boots, a weak point for some reason?
Just got car back from service. When cleaning I saw that the drivers side CV joint cover was torn and the grease had escaped. Must have happened in the last 1500 miles since I know it was NOT torn at that time. Mileage is 45k now.
They replaced the boot only (2213300285)
(Picture courtesy of FCP Euro)
The passenger side was replaced at 32k miles, and then the entire axle was replaced (2213306400)
(Picture courtesy of RMEuropean)
That time the car was driven longer after boot leaked and hence got the classic CV "clicking" noise. So, in 45k miles BOTH CV joint boots have busted. Feels unusual? I have seen it in the past on other cars of course, but it usually happens later in life (more miles or higher age - older rubber), not on BOTH sides and in two years and 45k miles.
Anyone else have similar experience?
For those NOT under warranty - worth checking on the boots regularly, the driveshaft is $1,100 and up for the part alone. The boot is $70....
Question for the group - are our CV joints, and esp boots, a weak point for some reason?
Just got car back from service. When cleaning I saw that the drivers side CV joint cover was torn and the grease had escaped. Must have happened in the last 1500 miles since I know it was NOT torn at that time. Mileage is 45k now.
They replaced the boot only (2213300285)
(Picture courtesy of FCP Euro)
The passenger side was replaced at 32k miles, and then the entire axle was replaced (2213306400)
(Picture courtesy of RMEuropean)
That time the car was driven longer after boot leaked and hence got the classic CV "clicking" noise. So, in 45k miles BOTH CV joint boots have busted. Feels unusual? I have seen it in the past on other cars of course, but it usually happens later in life (more miles or higher age - older rubber), not on BOTH sides and in two years and 45k miles.
Anyone else have similar experience?
For those NOT under warranty - worth checking on the boots regularly, the driveshaft is $1,100 and up for the part alone. The boot is $70....
I replaced mine three times within the first 10000 miles.
Peter - you hearing that frequent race starts (on a stock car) will start causing damage to the boots and drive shaft? i dont use it more than 2-3 times when i drive the car and i only drive the care about every 3-4 days but this has me worried....
Peter - you hearing that frequent race starts (on a stock car) will start causing damage to the boots and drive shaft? i dont use it more than 2-3 times when i drive the car and i only drive the care about every 3-4 days but this has me worried....
oh no not at all ... just curious what possible driving habits may pose as risk to incurring this issue
what about driving in winter with the salt and other corrosives?
I'm having my driveshaft replaced as we speak, sounded like a lawnmower inside the car when driving on cold starts. As the bearing inside heats up noise goes away. My car only now has 8k miles on it too. 2015 e63s
We see them from time to time on the 4matic cars in general, there's nothing that causes it really, just cheap parts that fail. It's nice that the boot can be replaced alone if you catch it before the axle takes damage, as the entire axles are quite expensive.
We see them from time to time on the 4matic cars in general, there's nothing that causes it really, just cheap parts that fail. It's nice that the boot can be replaced alone if you catch it before the axle takes damage, as the entire axles are quite expensive.
So how would I know if I’m having these type of issues?
clicking noises from the front end when turning?
Once every month or so - get car up on ramps, or just roll under the car and look at the axles. When the rubber axle boot breaks the grease inside will sling out and leave a bit of a greasy mess. Over time the grease then attracts dust and dirt and will get a flat finish. Still easy to spot since the color will be darker than dirt around it. Swap out the boot for $70ish plus labour
If you do not catch it in time and the CV joint runs dry, you are right, you will hear a clicking noise when turning, esp when applying torque at some time (and no need to gun it - some torque is enough). Usually, by the time you can hear it, the CV joint is shot and you need to replace the joint which for MB means entire axle ($1,100+). Labor cost is about the same since you need to remove axle to replace the boot..
Once every month or so - get car up on ramps, or just roll under the car and look at the axles. When the rubber axle boot breaks the grease inside will sling out and leave a bit of a greasy mess. Over time the grease then attracts dust and dirt and will get a flat finish. Still easy to spot since the color will be darker than dirt around it. Swap out the boot for $70ish plus labour
If you do not catch it in time and the CV joint runs dry, you are right, you will hear a clicking noise when turning, esp when applying torque at some time (and no need to gun it - some torque is enough). Usually, by the time you can hear it, the CV joint is shot and you need to replace the joint which for MB means entire axle ($1,100+). Labor cost is about the same since you need to remove axle to replace the boot..
The latest axle boot kit comes with the entire joint as well, so you can get just the outer joint and re-use the shaft and inner joint, still significantly cheaper than the whole axle. I have had inner boots fail and they only come with the boot kit, not the joint. Not sure what they are doing in Germany as far as parts are concerned, but at least the repair parts are available somewhat instead of the "replace the whole axle every time" approach.
The latest axle boot kit comes with the entire joint as well, so you can get just the outer joint and re-use the shaft and inner joint, still significantly cheaper than the whole axle. I have had inner boots fail and they only come with the boot kit, not the joint. Not sure what they are doing in Germany as far as parts are concerned, but at least the repair parts are available somewhat instead of the "replace the whole axle every time" approach.
Thank you - that is very helpful info. Maybe even add the part numbers to this thread (besides the two I mentioned above). Must be at least three in total then, right?
The latest axle boot kit comes with the entire joint as well, so you can get just the outer joint and re-use the shaft and inner joint, still significantly cheaper than the whole axle. I have had inner boots fail and they only come with the boot kit, not the joint. Not sure what they are doing in Germany as far as parts are concerned, but at least the repair parts are available somewhat instead of the "replace the whole axle every time" approach.
@ItalianJoe1 ,
Following up on this.
Found yesterday that the inside boot on the driver's side is leaking a sliver right where it's attached to the inside axle (see arrow). Are you saying there is a boot kit for the inside as well? I have not been able to find that part in any diagram.
@ItalianJoe1 ,
Following up on this.
Found yesterday that the inside boot on the driver's side is leaking a sliver right where it's attached to the inside axle (see arrow). Are you saying there is a boot kit for the inside as well? I have not been able to find that part in any diagram.
What's the VIN? I found one from a 4matic E63 wagon for sale. Just fire up EPC and using that vin, this one shows up. Seems like it's used on a lot of other ones too so there probably isn't one specific to your model but I'd double check the vin just to be safe.
Get a copy of the EPC/WIS on eBay for about $8.50. Well worth it when you want to know a part number and don't feel like waiting for a reply or searching forever for that old thread that mentioned it.
There's actually no boot kit for the outer joint. There is on the W211. But in Europe there is a boot kit for the other joint. In the US, they just make you buy the entire joint and boot which is a lot more than just the boot. But you can search and find the European one out there for sale on eBay.
Last edited by cetialpha5; Sep 19, 2020 at 01:18 AM.
@cetialpha5 - thanks. I do have EPC/WIS already (and agree 100%!)
The question was slightly different - and I already knew the part number (see the first post in this thread). I was trying to understand if there is also a boot kit for the INSIDE boot. The kit I (and you) describe) is for the OUTSIDE boot (CV joint).
@cetialpha5 - thanks. I do have EPC/WIS already (and agree 100%!)
The question was slightly different - and I already knew the part number (see the first post in this thread). I was trying to understand if there is also a boot kit for the INSIDE boot. The kit I (and you) describe) is for the OUTSIDE boot (CV joint).
That was the part number for the inside boot unless you're referring to them backwards. The outside boot is the one closest the wheel and the inside one is the one furthest away.
The outer one is discontinued by MB but you can find that part number on eBay and Febi says theirs is compatible.
I've replaced a few ripped boots. Some of it is just the luck of the draw, and other mechanics tend to say the left tends to go first because it's shorter and tends to move more than the right so maybe just how much turning you do to eventually cause the boot to rip or whether there's road debris to cause a rip.
Interesting - we are using the same nomenclature but the part number you (and I) refer to is what they used when they fixes my OUTSIDE CV joint boot two years ago.
I'm starting to think the boot kit contains both?.....
Interesting - we are using the same nomenclature but the part number you (and I) refer to is what they used when they fixes my OUTSIDE CV joint boot two years ago.
I'm starting to think the boot kit contains both?.....
Or they used the inner boot on the outside. If you look at EPC that's the part number for the inner boot. Outer boot gives you a different number and if you just do a parts search on an MB dealer website, the part they show in the diagram is discontinued but you can search for that part number on eBay and it comes up from Febi from overseas vendors and there's also a few here that sell it. You may get lucky and maybe they're the OEM maker of it. I think the MB boot is supposed to be better because a lot of the aftermarket cv axles have cheaper boots that tend to rip earlier. There used to be a joint and boot kit out there, but can't find it now. Maybe they got rid of that too. Don't ever use the aftermarket axles, lots of threads in the regular forums of how those aftermarket axles are no good and transmit vibrations.
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