New Battery Dead, Alternator Working




This is weird. Dealer put in a new battery under warranty about 2 weeks ago. I have been noticing that it doesn’t start with the normal energy. A bit slow. Today in the garage I noticed that the radio would shut off without the engine running after only 5 seconds or so. Normally that happens after 15 minutes at least. So then when I went to start the car, it would barely turn over and not fire up. Then the hands on the servo controlled clock started spinning around. All typical of power loss, ie: dead battery. I put my trickle charger/starter on her for 5 minutes and she started.
After she started, I disconnected the charger and checked terminal voltage with my multi-meter. I was getting consistent 14.3 volts while at idle. I was getting 12.8 with engine off. This tells me the alternator is working. Soooooo. Hmmmmmm. WTH is going on here?
I am wondering if when you get a battery replaced under warranty, maybe it is not a brand new battery? Maybe some reconditioned battery? Because it sure seems like they replaced a bad battery with another bad battery.
Oh, btw, I popped the blower box off above the battery to make sure they did replace it. It looked new and had “12/18” round sticker on it.
Any guesses?
This is weird. Dealer put in a new battery under warranty about 2 weeks ago. I have been noticing that it doesn’t start with the normal energy. A bit slow. Today in the garage I noticed that the radio would shut off without the engine running after only 5 seconds or so. Normally that happens after 15 minutes at least. So then when I went to start the car, it would barely turn over and not fire up. Then the hands on the servo controlled clock started spinning around. All typical of power loss, ie: dead battery. I put my trickle charger/starter on her for 5 minutes and she started.
After she started, I disconnected the charger and checked terminal voltage with my multi-meter. I was getting consistent 14.3 volts while at idle. I was getting 12.8 with engine off. This tells me the alternator is working. Soooooo. Hmmmmmm. WTH is going on here?
I am wondering if when you get a battery replaced under warranty, maybe it is not a brand new battery? Maybe some reconditioned battery? Because it sure seems like they replaced a bad battery with another bad battery.
Oh, btw, I popped the blower box off above the battery to make sure they did replace it. It looked new and had “12/18” round sticker on it.
Any guesses?
likely if not a fluke bad battery, there is something overdrawing the current while the car is off ....
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...-question.html
Last edited by PeterUbers; Dec 24, 2018 at 07:22 PM.




Another interesting coincidence is that these battery issues started after 2 significant events that it went to the dealer for both. Left rear body damage from getting rear ended where the radar sensors were replaced for lane assist, AAAAND, the brand new motor being installed. Perhaps something is not properly connected in the various harnesses. Seems unlikely. But sure is quite a coincidence.
Good idea to check base battery voltage after sitting for some time. I will do that tomorrow. Maybe a weak cell in it.
Thanks Again. Merry Xmas!
I would bring it back and let them solve it. Yet another trip to the dealer...uggh! GL and Merry Christmas!




Looks like the mystery is solved. After being on the charger yesterday for hours and the charger saying “charged”, the battery was dead this morning. Nothing was left on. The car wasnt even driven after being charged.
But the BIG tell was the battery voltage this morning. 10.7 volts! Looks a lot like a dead cell. Looks like I will be having MB bring me a new battery tomorrow.
Looks like the mystery is solved. After being on the charger yesterday for hours and the charger saying “charged”, the battery was dead this morning. Nothing was left on. The car wasnt even driven after being charged.
But the BIG tell was the battery voltage this morning. 10.7 volts! Looks a lot like a dead cell. Looks like I will be having MB bring me a new battery tomorrow.
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the other thought is charging this battery then disconnecting it from the car and seeing if it maintains the charge without any current draw from the e63
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Regarding remote install of the battery, they really do do it. They put a new battery in my 2011 about 4 years ago right in my garage.

Your other thought is not exactly correct. Reason being that a battery should never read below 12 volts even when drained. This only happens when a cell is dead within the battery. Drained batteries will still read 12+ volts. Also, the car almost starts at only 10 volts. This suggests the other cells are charged.
Regarding remote install of the battery, they really do do it. They put a new battery in my 2011 about 4 years ago right in my garage.
https://modernsurvivalblog.com/alter...-charge-chart/
You could check to see if there's a parasitic draw by checking the current draw.




https://modernsurvivalblog.com/alter...-charge-chart/
You could check to see if there's a parasitic draw by checking the current draw.
I respect your experience and measurements. However, I have never seen a salvageable battery with no load reading in the 10+volt range. Also, this car and battery are in 60 degree weather here in N California.
Pretty confident here that the battery will be replaced tomorrow and be the end of it.

Negative terminal was disconnected. Therefore no load. With no load the batter was at 10.5/10,7 volts. From experience working as a mechanic many years ago putting myself through college, this is indicative of 1 bad cell within the battery. As I recall there are 6 cells within the battery casing. When this was seen, we ALWAYS replaced the battery.
I respect your experience and measurements. However, I have never seen a salvageable battery with no load reading in the 10+volt range. Also, this car and battery are in 60 degree weather here in N California.
Pretty confident here that the battery will be replaced tomorrow and be the end of it.




At this point I just went and bought a new battery and installed it in about 10 minutes. All is fine and working correctly now. The parts place actually told me they would take the battery back within 2 weeks if the dealer gives me a replacement. So thats actually better customer service than MB gave me today. I am trying to cut them somewhat of a break as the holidays do create logistic issues. Too bad cars don’t understand not to breakdown at Christmas. Lol
I did run one interesting test today. I connected my multi meter in series with one of the terminals disconnected in current measuring mode. I believe everything was off, and yet I was seeing a 7.5 amp draw. Hmmm. Thats apx 90 watts. That seems high to me. Maybe something was active though as not long before that I was trying to start the car without success. The old/new battery was shot for sure though as after an hour on the charger out of the car, it was still only giving 10.5 volts.
Anybody know (as in not speculating) if a 7 amp draw is normal. Seems high to me.
Thanks
That's like running an upright vacuum constantly off your battery
I take it the car was quiet .. meaning no fans or airmatic working .. the electronics would never draw 7amps




I just cant believe it would have started so strong this morning otherwise.
As a side note: She was successfully delivered to the tint shop for Suntek clear bra and front door window tinting this morning! Picking her up in about 6 hours.








