New Battery Dead, Alternator Working
#1
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New Battery Dead, Alternator Working
Hey guys,
This is weird. Dealer put in a new battery under warranty about 2 weeks ago. I have been noticing that it doesn’t start with the normal energy. A bit slow. Today in the garage I noticed that the radio would shut off without the engine running after only 5 seconds or so. Normally that happens after 15 minutes at least. So then when I went to start the car, it would barely turn over and not fire up. Then the hands on the servo controlled clock started spinning around. All typical of power loss, ie: dead battery. I put my trickle charger/starter on her for 5 minutes and she started.
After she started, I disconnected the charger and checked terminal voltage with my multi-meter. I was getting consistent 14.3 volts while at idle. I was getting 12.8 with engine off. This tells me the alternator is working. Soooooo. Hmmmmmm. WTH is going on here?
I am wondering if when you get a battery replaced under warranty, maybe it is not a brand new battery? Maybe some reconditioned battery? Because it sure seems like they replaced a bad battery with another bad battery.
Oh, btw, I popped the blower box off above the battery to make sure they did replace it. It looked new and had “12/18” round sticker on it.
Any guesses?
This is weird. Dealer put in a new battery under warranty about 2 weeks ago. I have been noticing that it doesn’t start with the normal energy. A bit slow. Today in the garage I noticed that the radio would shut off without the engine running after only 5 seconds or so. Normally that happens after 15 minutes at least. So then when I went to start the car, it would barely turn over and not fire up. Then the hands on the servo controlled clock started spinning around. All typical of power loss, ie: dead battery. I put my trickle charger/starter on her for 5 minutes and she started.
After she started, I disconnected the charger and checked terminal voltage with my multi-meter. I was getting consistent 14.3 volts while at idle. I was getting 12.8 with engine off. This tells me the alternator is working. Soooooo. Hmmmmmm. WTH is going on here?
I am wondering if when you get a battery replaced under warranty, maybe it is not a brand new battery? Maybe some reconditioned battery? Because it sure seems like they replaced a bad battery with another bad battery.
Oh, btw, I popped the blower box off above the battery to make sure they did replace it. It looked new and had “12/18” round sticker on it.
Any guesses?
#2
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Hey guys,
This is weird. Dealer put in a new battery under warranty about 2 weeks ago. I have been noticing that it doesn’t start with the normal energy. A bit slow. Today in the garage I noticed that the radio would shut off without the engine running after only 5 seconds or so. Normally that happens after 15 minutes at least. So then when I went to start the car, it would barely turn over and not fire up. Then the hands on the servo controlled clock started spinning around. All typical of power loss, ie: dead battery. I put my trickle charger/starter on her for 5 minutes and she started.
After she started, I disconnected the charger and checked terminal voltage with my multi-meter. I was getting consistent 14.3 volts while at idle. I was getting 12.8 with engine off. This tells me the alternator is working. Soooooo. Hmmmmmm. WTH is going on here?
I am wondering if when you get a battery replaced under warranty, maybe it is not a brand new battery? Maybe some reconditioned battery? Because it sure seems like they replaced a bad battery with another bad battery.
Oh, btw, I popped the blower box off above the battery to make sure they did replace it. It looked new and had “12/18” round sticker on it.
Any guesses?
This is weird. Dealer put in a new battery under warranty about 2 weeks ago. I have been noticing that it doesn’t start with the normal energy. A bit slow. Today in the garage I noticed that the radio would shut off without the engine running after only 5 seconds or so. Normally that happens after 15 minutes at least. So then when I went to start the car, it would barely turn over and not fire up. Then the hands on the servo controlled clock started spinning around. All typical of power loss, ie: dead battery. I put my trickle charger/starter on her for 5 minutes and she started.
After she started, I disconnected the charger and checked terminal voltage with my multi-meter. I was getting consistent 14.3 volts while at idle. I was getting 12.8 with engine off. This tells me the alternator is working. Soooooo. Hmmmmmm. WTH is going on here?
I am wondering if when you get a battery replaced under warranty, maybe it is not a brand new battery? Maybe some reconditioned battery? Because it sure seems like they replaced a bad battery with another bad battery.
Oh, btw, I popped the blower box off above the battery to make sure they did replace it. It looked new and had “12/18” round sticker on it.
Any guesses?
likely if not a fluke bad battery, there is something overdrawing the current while the car is off ....
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...-question.html
Last edited by PeterUbers; 12-24-2018 at 07:22 PM.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Let the battery sit overnight and then check the voltage without starting the motor.
On rare occasions new batteries are not good.
On rare occasions new batteries are not good.
#4
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Thread Starter
Another interesting coincidence is that these battery issues started after 2 significant events that it went to the dealer for both. Left rear body damage from getting rear ended where the radar sensors were replaced for lane assist, AAAAND, the brand new motor being installed. Perhaps something is not properly connected in the various harnesses. Seems unlikely. But sure is quite a coincidence.
Good idea to check base battery voltage after sitting for some time. I will do that tomorrow. Maybe a weak cell in it.
Thanks Again. Merry Xmas!
#5
Member
That's a bummer. I have had battery issues with my BMW. When the battery is dying the car starts to act "quirky" and shuts off certain options to keep the car running.
I would bring it back and let them solve it. Yet another trip to the dealer...uggh! GL and Merry Christmas!
I would bring it back and let them solve it. Yet another trip to the dealer...uggh! GL and Merry Christmas!
#6
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Update
First, Merry Christmas to everyone!
Looks like the mystery is solved. After being on the charger yesterday for hours and the charger saying “charged”, the battery was dead this morning. Nothing was left on. The car wasnt even driven after being charged.
But the BIG tell was the battery voltage this morning. 10.7 volts! Looks a lot like a dead cell. Looks like I will be having MB bring me a new battery tomorrow.
Looks like the mystery is solved. After being on the charger yesterday for hours and the charger saying “charged”, the battery was dead this morning. Nothing was left on. The car wasnt even driven after being charged.
But the BIG tell was the battery voltage this morning. 10.7 volts! Looks a lot like a dead cell. Looks like I will be having MB bring me a new battery tomorrow.
#7
Member
First, Merry Christmas to everyone!
Looks like the mystery is solved. After being on the charger yesterday for hours and the charger saying “charged”, the battery was dead this morning. Nothing was left on. The car wasnt even driven after being charged.
But the BIG tell was the battery voltage this morning. 10.7 volts! Looks a lot like a dead cell. Looks like I will be having MB bring me a new battery tomorrow.
Looks like the mystery is solved. After being on the charger yesterday for hours and the charger saying “charged”, the battery was dead this morning. Nothing was left on. The car wasnt even driven after being charged.
But the BIG tell was the battery voltage this morning. 10.7 volts! Looks a lot like a dead cell. Looks like I will be having MB bring me a new battery tomorrow.
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#8
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yes, it's cheaper than towing it and it's covered under mbcare or whatever it is called
the other thought is charging this battery then disconnecting it from the car and seeing if it maintains the charge without any current draw from the e63
the other thought is charging this battery then disconnecting it from the car and seeing if it maintains the charge without any current draw from the e63
#9
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Regarding remote install of the battery, they really do do it. They put a new battery in my 2011 about 4 years ago right in my garage.
#10
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Your other thought is not exactly correct. Reason being that a battery should never read below 12 volts even when drained. This only happens when a cell is dead within the battery. Drained batteries will still read 12+ volts. Also, the car almost starts at only 10 volts. This suggests the other cells are charged.
Regarding remote install of the battery, they really do do it. They put a new battery in my 2011 about 4 years ago right in my garage.
https://modernsurvivalblog.com/alter...-charge-chart/
You could check to see if there's a parasitic draw by checking the current draw.
#11
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Not sure where you got the idea that a battery shouldn't be below 12. Here's a state of charge chart, with a 10% charge, it would be at 11.5 volts. The low battery warranty actually kicks in at 11 volts. Mine reads as low as 11.5 volts in the winter when it's 20 degrees outside. Remember that state of charge chart is the no load voltage when the temperature is 70. I had mine charged up to 12.7 at one point and once I connected it, it dropped down to 12.3.
https://modernsurvivalblog.com/alter...-charge-chart/
You could check to see if there's a parasitic draw by checking the current draw.
https://modernsurvivalblog.com/alter...-charge-chart/
You could check to see if there's a parasitic draw by checking the current draw.
I respect your experience and measurements. However, I have never seen a salvageable battery with no load reading in the 10+volt range. Also, this car and battery are in 60 degree weather here in N California.
Pretty confident here that the battery will be replaced tomorrow and be the end of it.
#12
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Negative terminal was disconnected. Therefore no load. With no load the batter was at 10.5/10,7 volts. From experience working as a mechanic many years ago putting myself through college, this is indicative of 1 bad cell within the battery. As I recall there are 6 cells within the battery casing. When this was seen, we ALWAYS replaced the battery.
I respect your experience and measurements. However, I have never seen a salvageable battery with no load reading in the 10+volt range. Also, this car and battery are in 60 degree weather here in N California.
Pretty confident here that the battery will be replaced tomorrow and be the end of it.
#13
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Thread Starter
So today, after all the great things MB has done for me, they dropped the ball pretty hard. Roadside service basically told me that no local dealerships offer roadside assistance any longer including my dealership that performed a battery swap 4 years ago in my garage. They said that I could call my SA and they sometimes will make exceptions and send out a tech, but that she cannot dispatch one. So I tried that but my SA is out this week for the holidays. I then tried to reach an alternate SA and failed to get anyone. Roadside said they could dispatch a tow truck to take my car to the dealer. Uh, no thanks. Might sit there until next week over a battery and my clear bra installation is happening tomorrow.
At this point I just went and bought a new battery and installed it in about 10 minutes. All is fine and working correctly now. The parts place actually told me they would take the battery back within 2 weeks if the dealer gives me a replacement. So thats actually better customer service than MB gave me today. I am trying to cut them somewhat of a break as the holidays do create logistic issues. Too bad cars don’t understand not to breakdown at Christmas. Lol
I did run one interesting test today. I connected my multi meter in series with one of the terminals disconnected in current measuring mode. I believe everything was off, and yet I was seeing a 7.5 amp draw. Hmmm. Thats apx 90 watts. That seems high to me. Maybe something was active though as not long before that I was trying to start the car without success. The old/new battery was shot for sure though as after an hour on the charger out of the car, it was still only giving 10.5 volts.
Anybody know (as in not speculating) if a 7 amp draw is normal. Seems high to me.
Thanks
At this point I just went and bought a new battery and installed it in about 10 minutes. All is fine and working correctly now. The parts place actually told me they would take the battery back within 2 weeks if the dealer gives me a replacement. So thats actually better customer service than MB gave me today. I am trying to cut them somewhat of a break as the holidays do create logistic issues. Too bad cars don’t understand not to breakdown at Christmas. Lol
I did run one interesting test today. I connected my multi meter in series with one of the terminals disconnected in current measuring mode. I believe everything was off, and yet I was seeing a 7.5 amp draw. Hmmm. Thats apx 90 watts. That seems high to me. Maybe something was active though as not long before that I was trying to start the car without success. The old/new battery was shot for sure though as after an hour on the charger out of the car, it was still only giving 10.5 volts.
Anybody know (as in not speculating) if a 7 amp draw is normal. Seems high to me.
Thanks
#14
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That doesn't seem normal
That's like running an upright vacuum constantly off your battery
I take it the car was quiet .. meaning no fans or airmatic working .. the electronics would never draw 7amps
That's like running an upright vacuum constantly off your battery
I take it the car was quiet .. meaning no fans or airmatic working .. the electronics would never draw 7amps
#15
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#16
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So the car was left alone in the garage for about15 hours before I started it this morning. I imagine that if the car actually had a constant 7 amp draw for 15 hours it would either not start or barely start. But, it started right up quite strong. I believe something was running somewhere when did my current draw test. For batteries, it really comes down to duty cycle (% of time under load). So a constant 7 amp draw would be a 100% duty cycle at 7 amps. My guess, as we all know how active various systems are on these cars even while parked, is that the 7 amp draw stopped after things settled down.
I just cant believe it would have started so strong this morning otherwise.
As a side note: She was successfully delivered to the tint shop for Suntek clear bra and front door window tinting this morning! Picking her up in about 6 hours.
I just cant believe it would have started so strong this morning otherwise.
As a side note: She was successfully delivered to the tint shop for Suntek clear bra and front door window tinting this morning! Picking her up in about 6 hours.
#17
Super Member
Mine is quiet when I haven't used it for a week and the battery drops to about 12.15-12.2V. Before that, it makes noises as though it's waking up and getting ready to run just when I open the door from the house to the garage and the garage lights turn on. Literally it wakes from sleep when the lights turn on, there's a moaning as a relay turns on from the engine bay, and farts from the air suspension and compressor pump.
#18
Senior Member
At “rest” the current draw should be no more than 1/2 amp (.5 amp). Mine was at 7.5 amps “resting”. Tracked it to the left sam unit. Until one comes in I just pull the related fuse at night and she’s fine in the morning.
#19
Super Member
The spec is .050 amps (50 milliamps) or less, not 1/2 amp