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At what mileage does this issue typically show up? Or maybe someone can chime in on this if you have relatively low miles. I have a 2015 E63S with less than 13k miles that I just bought but I haven't taken delivery yet because it's waiting for cross country transport at the moment. Sad that I am reading about these fairly serious issues on something like an E-Class AMG.
It doesn't look like it has low profile. I have a few with regular size and they are too thick to slide in. The thickness of a regular wrench is 6mm. If I can find one with the thickness around 4mm, it will do the job.
I'm trying the remove the bottom screw of the left magnet solenoid on driver side. Thank you for your help again.
It doesn't look like it has low profile. I have a few with regular size and they are too thick to slide in. The thickness of a regular wrench is 6mm. If I can find one with the thickness around 4mm, it will do the job.
I'm trying the remove the bottom screw of the left magnet solenoid on driver side. Thank you for your help again.
I used this wrench, open end. It’s slightly longer than the little sears wrenches I had. There are also wrenches called mini wrenches that are thin and come in a kit, but are not long.
when doing my sensors and coolant lines I got this.
and these are thin and ratcheting (though this made some easier, not the bolt you are looking at). That magnet also has a tough time coming out, possible but very tight, and new one going in may get messed up. Ymmv
I did the 2 outer most easy magnets for now . Didn't have the right tools on hand to get to that inner one of the driver side. That bolt did look like it's tight , more worried about getting it started with the new sensor .. not much space.. subd. for some tips here.
Looks like that lower bolt will get jammed against the oil filter housing . I could be wrong - anyone able to sneak the upper driver side magnet in ?
Last edited by SilverE5588; Jun 4, 2022 at 08:30 AM.
The oil filter housing with the attached cooler line blocks access to this bolt. The bolt will get jammed against the cooler line either ways, in or out. My plan is to detach it and pull the whole magnet up. I will try to replace this bolt with a hexa-head when reinstall so I can use the thin open head wrench. I'm waiting for the tools, hopefully one of them will do the job. If not, I will have to remove the oil filter housing. I will need a new gasket and rings for the pipes. More stuffs to be removed bore I can remove the oil housing. That's why I try to avoid this if I could. Thank you everyone for trying to help me out. I love this forum!
Yeah smaller dremel could work for that , or good point on detaching & pulling it out with the sensor . Sure , a thinner head hex bolt will be a nice option going back in . My local mb dealer stocked & included new bolts with the sensors just an fyi .
Late to the thread. Glad the OP is getting at least partial compensation.
Thread title is a bit inaccurate - oil sensors aren’t the issue but rather cam position sensors and cam solenoids, as is being discussed.
The failure, while inconvenient and requires some out of pocket $, isn’t what I would call catastrophic. Cylinder scuffing and piston cracking are more like catastrophic defects in my view.
Agree that proactive sensor and magnet replacement is good practice. Plus other “while you’re in there” parts replacement like hoses, belt, etc.
I managed to get the bolt removed but it's a wasted of time!!! The magnet gets jammed against the cooler line, the oil filter housing must be removed to get the job done. Joe (Valvestud) has provided me with the WIS instruction but I am unable to follow it. I can't seem to find a video on how to remove the oil filter housing. If anyone see one, please kindly show me.
At what mileage does this issue typically show up? Or maybe someone can chime in on this if you have relatively low miles. I have a 2015 E63S with less than 13k miles that I just bought but I haven't taken delivery yet because it's waiting for cross country transport at the moment. Sad that I am reading about these fairly serious issues on something like an E-Class AMG.
No firm answer, but around 100k miles seems to be when people report leaks. I am at 100k miles and no leaks yet.
I managed to get the bolt removed but it's a wasted of time!!! The magnet gets jammed against the cooler line, the oil filter housing must be removed to get the job done. Joe (Valvestud) has provided me with the WIS instruction but I am unable to follow it. I can't seem to find a video on how to remove the oil filter housing. If anyone see one, please kindly show me.
Dang , thanks for reporting back.. I guess i'll just do 3 of them for now & keep a close eye..
Dang , thanks for reporting back.. I guess i'll just do 3 of them for now & keep a close eye..
Whatever you do, never try remove the sensor or magnet to check for oil leak. Doing so will break the seal and make it riskier for the oil leak. Only remove the connector and check.
I managed to get the bolt removed but it's a wasted of time!!! The magnet gets jammed against the cooler line, the oil filter housing must be removed to get the job done. Joe (Valvestud) has provided me with the WIS instruction but I am unable to follow it. I can't seem to find a video on how to remove the oil filter housing. If anyone see one, please kindly show me.
when I did this, I looked at a pic of an oil cooler and saw where the bolts were. The picture in wis is. It accurate but very close. In order to remove the housing, the turbo coolant lines need to be moved. If you just need that extra mm, just loosen the bolts and don’t remove it. They are all Allen head if I remember correctly.
often wis is only complete when combining multiple documents. On the tensioner thread, the wis docs are there that include lots of breakdown.
I too got stuck where you did but was able to get the magnet out. Getting the magnet in was the hard part for me.
even though these are e10 bolts, you will find using a regular wrench on the open side is the only way to do it without following wis. That is unless someone invented an open ended e wrench. The closed or boxed sides of the wrench will fit on but not come off once the bolt fills the tight space. Oem expects we are coming at these from the front and we are trying from the top.
be aware some videos show a different oil cooler, the Amg split system after 2013 is the harder one.
because I continued into doing the timing tensioners and check valves, I was less concerned with keeping everything in place. It’s grueling but all in was about eight hours including turbo lines, all sensors and magnets, check valves and tensioners. Cost me about a grand in parts, from fcp.
below You can see that before removing the oil cooler for the tensioner job, this should get you where you need to be.
Last edited by Baltistyle; Jun 4, 2022 at 07:41 PM.
Thank you, Baltistyle. I agree with you about the open-end wrench. I ended up using KLUTCH 5/16 open end wrench from Northern Tools to remove the bolt. I have some 8mm, 5/16, E10 wrench from other brand and none of them fit. You would think size is the same no matter what brand, but they are not. Yes, I found a picture of the oil filter housing with 7 screws and 1 guide pulley crew. I think the turbo coolant must be removed to have access to the bottom screws of the oil filter housing. For the chain tensioner issue, I think my car had the recall done, the proof is the blue bolts on the head cover, I found out this on YouTube. Now at least I know what to be done, will get back to this later, I need to pick up the gasket and coolant from the dealer on Monday anyways. Once again, thank you everyone!
Oh okay, I guess it's not true. But you can tell by the sealant on mine, it was opened before. I got the revised chain and don't have the rattle (yet).
Baltistyle, I'm thinking about removing the timing chain cover instead of removing the oil filter housing but a bit concern about putting the cover back without any leak. By removing the timing case cover, I just need unscrew the bolts and pull it up. Is it a bad idea? Did you have any problem putting the cover back? Thanks.
Baltistyle, I'm thinking about removing the timing chain cover instead of removing the oil filter housing but a bit concern about putting the cover back without any leak. By removing the timing case cover, I just need unscrew the bolts and pull it up. Is it a bad idea? Did you have any problem putting the cover back? Thanks.
Cylinder head front cover installation is fiddly. It requires cleaning all old sealant away without damaging either surface, properly reapplying sufficient sealant of the correct spec, and using new aluminum screws with very low torque spec. If it’s possible to remove the magnets without removing the cylinder head front cover I would go that route.
Baltistyle, I'm thinking about removing the timing chain cover instead of removing the oil filter housing but a bit concern about putting the cover back without any leak. By removing the timing case cover, I just need unscrew the bolts and pull it up. Is it a bad idea? Did you have any problem putting the cover back? Thanks.
This would be very hard to do and it will not work. I tried that within my repair. I looked for the easiest way vs WIS. WIS is what I had to follow. Because there is a little placements dowel (at least in mine there was and pic are in the tensioner thread) in there, it requires everything in front of it to come out.
Sorry that's not the answer you want to hear. No other way other than the oil filter housing
Last edited by Baltistyle; Oct 28, 2022 at 06:40 PM.
Thank you guys, I was able to find the belt tensioner. I disconnected the coolant hose and the black plastic in the center of the picture but I can't take this one out. I already removed the 3 crews which connect it to the aluminum end. I don't know what it is. Turbo coolant pipe? Anyway, it won't come out.
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