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I thought I would share my check valve experience.
I was playing around with my car and had the hood open and thought of the issue with waste gate actuators fluttering. I looked down and sure enough just like the videos in the other posts.
So, I took the vacuum port off of the vacuum pump (pretty easy once the hose was out of the way) and inspected the little orange diaphragm
and there was nothing left but the nipple.
Obviously broken. So I started the search for a replacement that did not involve buying the whole vacuum pump. I found some things on Ebay from China and the Ukraine but costs were stupid and shipping was worse. $90 for a little piece of orange rubber!
Anyway, I noticed that this pump system is used on a variety of vehicles including Volvo and Ford. Volvo had a similar looking part but they wanted $70-80 for it. I also saw some references to a small Ford turbo engine so I looked a bit and found something on Amazon that seemed very close. Price was $25, shipping was free and I could send it back if it did not fit or work. So I ordered.
Got it in a day, tried it out and it sort of fit. The nipple seemed a bit too small but the diaphragm itself was perfect. Once you put it in its cage there is nowhere for it to go so I thought I would try it out.
Put it on and started it up...actuators are still as church mouse. I actually think it helped the bottom end a bit.
Anyway, hope it helps with the issue. It had been discussed before but no one ever said where to purchase (that I could see). So try:
I will check this out and keep and eye out for it. You say the wastegate actuator linkage will be fluttering? Put it on the list of things to fix/keep and eye out for haha
Yes, it it pretty obvious when the actuator rod is fluttering back and forth. The Amazon part is a good deal. I have seen people ask upwards of $70 for that part. It is an relatively easy repair.
Thanks for this info, I just purchased the Amazon part for my 2015 ML63 (60k miles), no idea if it actually needs replacing but for $18 NZD delivered I don't really have an excuse not to swap it out, sounds like it's a matter of time before it needs doing.
I purchased the inexpensive Amazon check valve and replaced it this morning. There was no diaphragm left in the original check valve. There was no visible flutter on the wastegates. It was very oily when removing. The new valve went in and I can tell an immediate difference. You will have to use a pic on the hose.
stock p30 13 wagon. 68k miles.
This is a great repair that’s easy and yields big. I have always hated the little bit of hesitation between 1500-2000 rpm. It’s been hard to determine whether it was mct, vacuum, or the oil pressure. Between this and the solenoid disconnect, my car feels great.
Last edited by Baltistyle; 12-16-2023 at 02:48 PM.
Brake booster output check-valve??
It's known to be trouble free.
The small check-valve takes the blunt of crankcase pressure inside vacuum pump. It's lower and weaker to act as a pressure relief.
> Check for oil swamped into diaphragms down the small vacuum line.
> Brake booster output is located high up and immune to oil invasion to stay reliable.
thank you. I figured I would ask since we may have all seen that there were two valves in there but only one has been mentioned. I had done my PCV valve a few months ago and there was oil in there, so just trying to track it all down.
thank you. I figured I would ask since we may have all seen that there were two valves in there but only one has been mentioned. I had done my PCV valve a few months ago and there was oil in there, so just trying to track it all down.
I see... by other side you meant PCV side.
Both PCV and vacuum pump are impacted by the piston blow-by. It's all inter related.
High blow-by messes up everything. It makes the engine behave like an old Pinto.
Once it's back under control with sealed rings, it's smooth operations for the ECU to remap power...
I have received my MagiDeal valve (second actually, first was dissembled on arrival) and tested it by blowing in and out - it flows both ways, although more freely in one direction. I expected that this valve should be completely closed in one direction, do i have a dud ? Should the closure happen with higher pressure?
I have received my MagiDeal valve (second actually, first was dissembled on arrival) and tested it by blowing in and out - it flows both ways, although more freely in one direction. I expected that this valve should be completely closed in one direction, do i have a dud ? Should the closure happen with higher pressure?
As preventative maintenance only I installed the MagiDeal vacuum check valve yesterday and also observed the same behaviour - air flows both ways, but one way had more resistance than the other.
I installed it anyway as my original check valve looked the same as Baltistyle's in the photos above - completely broken.
Using long nose tweezers, and a mirror, I fished out the old broken part, cleaned up some residual oil around the line and installed the new part.
Went for a long drive today, but no WOT. Still, the engine pulls like an absolute freight train under 3k rpm. But as I've only applied the oil pump solenoid mod in the last week it's hard to know what benefit replacing the check valve has had yet.
I'm planning to re-inspect the new part in a week or so to observe any oil leakage around the vacuum line, the MagiDeal part could well be a dud.
so whats the indications to swap this out.... are we feeling less boost
as i mentioned in one thread our 278 s500 has a low boost pressure code and the shop showed this video where there was play in the wastegate actuator on passenger side.
Can't make this up - my old valve was worn and stuck in the funniest way possible when removed (with retaining plastic ring left in the vacuum pump).
After a couple of days with new valve - "it feels" like low/mild acceleration is better, no engine rpm flutter.
Can't make this up - my old valve was worn and stuck in the funniest way possible when removed (with retaining plastic ring left in the vacuum pump).
After a couple of days with new valve - "it feels" like low/mild acceleration is better, no engine rpm flutter.
Now unplug your oil pump solenoid if you really want to feel an improvement.
Can't make this up - my old valve was worn and stuck in the funniest way possible when removed (with retaining plastic ring left in the vacuum pump).
After a couple of days with new valve - "it feels" like low/mild acceleration is better, no engine rpm flutter.
09-27-2022, 06:16 PM
