W212 AMG Discuss the W212 AMG's such as the E63

New oil in connectors after cam sensor change

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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 03:46 PM
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New oil in connectors after cam sensor change

I changed out my 4 cam sensors and 4 pucks after finding oil in 2 cam sensor connectors, after a few thousand miles I inspected and found oil again in the 2 cam sensor connectors that had been leaking previously. I used dealer parts and cleaned thoroughly at the time. I am now wondering if my new sensors are leaking or is the oil that had wicked up the harness previously flowing back down now that the source of new oil has been stopped...I am wondering if any other members have experienced the same thing?
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by a1bray
I changed out my 4 cam sensors and 4 pucks after finding oil in 2 cam sensor connectors, after a few thousand miles I inspected and found oil again in the 2 cam sensor connectors that had been leaking previously. I used dealer parts and cleaned thoroughly at the time. I am now wondering if my new sensors are leaking or is the oil that had wicked up the harness previously flowing back down now that the source of new oil has been stopped...I am wondering if any other members have experienced the same thing?
its the latter ... the vibrations of the engine are pushing oil all around ... yes this has been documented by others experiencing the same thing

btw how did you get the 2 hardest pucks out? I could only get to 2

Last edited by PeterUbers; Oct 16, 2022 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 06:37 PM
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Seconded, I still had some oil in my cam connectors 2k miles later, just keep checking and spraying, it will only get more oil out since you've plugged the leak. If they weren't terrible I wouldn't worry about a lot of migration elsewhere.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 07:39 PM
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I actually only did 3 of the 4 pucks. With the plastic oil filter cap off, the 3rd one was easy, I did it when I was changing the oil. The 4th one will have to wait...
Thank you for the feedback on the oil, That was what I was sort of thinking/hoping. In my case I feel like I got to it in time, no oil at the injector plugs, ecu or the plug down by the oil pan (crank position sensor?). I plan on just cleaning the connectors at the 2 previously leaky locations and checking 1 remaining puck every 2 or 3 thousand miles and check all 8 connectors every oil change...fingers crossed!
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by a1bray
I actually only did 3 of the 4 pucks. With the plastic oil filter cap off, the 3rd one was easy, I did it when I was changing the oil. The 4th one will have to wait...
Thank you for the feedback on the oil, That was what I was sort of thinking/hoping. In my case I feel like I got to it in time, no oil at the injector plugs, ecu or the plug down by the oil pan (crank position sensor?). I plan on just cleaning the connectors at the 2 previously leaky locations and checking 1 remaining puck every 2 or 3 thousand miles and check all 8 connectors every oil change...fingers crossed!
Yep you're doing the right things! I also bought the 'sacrificial harnesses' as they fit the puck connectors, just extra cheap insurance and buys some time if you discover oil.

The 4th IS possible with the filter cap off and loosening the hard oil lines but you almost have to force the puck in (prepare for skinned knuckles), but I was able to do it on our GL63 a couple years back. Those are less prone to leaking, so like you I only did the easier ones on my E63 and just bought the harness extenders to make monitoring easier.
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Old Oct 16, 2022 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by a1bray
I changed out my 4 cam sensors and 4 pucks after finding oil in 2 cam sensor connectors, after a few thousand miles I inspected and found oil again in the 2 cam sensor connectors that had been leaking previously. I used dealer parts and cleaned thoroughly at the time. I am now wondering if my new sensors are leaking or is the oil that had wicked up the harness previously flowing back down now that the source of new oil has been stopped...I am wondering if any other members have experienced the same thing?

same issue here after 1k miles, in 2/4 sensors, 3/4 had oil prior to the change.

i purchased from fcp euro so free replacement…

I had all 4 magnets changed when I had the timing cover resealed, along with the coolant lines. I didn’t notice any leaks from magnets but changed them regardless.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 03:58 AM
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@a1bray what year and engine model is your E63?
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
its the latter ... the vibrations of the engine are pushing oil all around ... yes this has been documented by others experiencing the same thing

btw how did you get the 2 hardest pucks out? I could only get to 2
Patience, swearing, and alcohol.
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 08:07 AM
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It's a 2014 e63 with the M157 engine
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 10:37 AM
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Thanks and good luck with the issue. Do you know if the M156 (the last naturally aspirated E63 engine) is similarly susceptible to this oil migration?
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Old Oct 17, 2022 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 2011E63AMG
Thanks and good luck with the issue. Do you know if the M156 (the last naturally aspirated E63 engine) is similarly susceptible to this oil migration?
yep!

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...58329-9999.pdf
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Old Oct 18, 2022 | 11:37 AM
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Thanks for posting and raising awareness of this issue.

I know that I was under the impression that once the parts were changed out there should be no more oil.
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Old Oct 18, 2022 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cotmfk
Thanks for posting and raising awareness of this issue.

I know that I was under the impression that once the parts were changed out there should be no more oil.

that’s what I thought too 🤦🏻‍♂️
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Old Oct 18, 2022 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cotmfk
Thanks for posting and raising awareness of this issue.

I know that I was under the impression that once the parts were changed out there should be no more oil.
sadly, depending on how much oil is in the harnessed it'll still be able to wick itself via capillary action to the ecu .. remain vigilant on checking the ecu routinely and consider oil at the ecu if you get like ten gremlin electrical issues at once
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Old Nov 2, 2022 | 09:27 PM
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i drive them all, fast and hard
is there a parts number listing for this work about cam sensors and oil. I have a 2012 63 with almost 90K miles on it. I have never checked them but saw some videos about it and now i am concerned. If its not too difficult to do id like to avoid dealership prices etc
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by vdubpower
is there a parts number listing for this work about cam sensors and oil. I have a 2012 63 with almost 90K miles on it. I have never checked them but saw some videos about it and now i am concerned. If its not too difficult to do id like to avoid dealership prices etc
J

Just make sure this applies to your vehicle. You can check the fitment guide
KIT-2761560790KT
​​​​​​MER-2769051000

Last edited by Mojo20032004; Nov 3, 2022 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 01:16 PM
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Also the sacrificial harnesses if you want them too. FCP's fitment guide won't show them for an M157 car but they do fit the cam magnets on our cars (not the sensors though), fairly inexpensive extra insurance and makes checking them a little easier.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2711500156
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mojo20032004
J

Just make sure this applies to your vehicle. You can check the fitment guide
KIT-2761560790KT
​​​​​​MER-2769051000

why is the solenoid kit needed?
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vdubpower
why is the solenoid kit needed?
They leak too. Basically any sensor that has oil on the other side is a possible culprit. On the two M157s I have I've found the solenoids hold off longer, but do eventually leak.
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by GinDistiller
They leak too. Basically any sensor that has oil on the other side is a possible culprit. On the two M157s I have I've found the solenoids hold off longer, but do eventually leak.
Gosh dang it.. what are signs and symptoms of the sensors having oil. My car has seemed to be fine. But been noticing transmission shifts a bit lumpier tho
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by vdubpower
Gosh dang it.. what are signs and symptoms of the sensors having oil. My car has seemed to be fine. But been noticing transmission shifts a bit lumpier tho
All you need to do is unplug the connectors to all 8 sensors and look, takes about 5 minutes. Just pull gray tabs out until they click, then press down to release. You'll see oil on them if they are leaking. IF you do, then unplug the big ECU connectors and look at the pins with a flashlight to see if the oil has migrated that far. If it has it could explain shifting and other odd issues, if not then don't worry about it. I noticed shifting and power issues with our GL63 because oil had reached the ECU and O2 sensors, all fixed after a new harness, sensors etc.

Funny enough I noticed more of an improvement replacing the commonly worn vacuum pump check valve diaphram on shifting and low end power, and it's a $20 part, so go figure!
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by GinDistiller
Funny enough I noticed more of an improvement replacing the commonly worn vacuum pump check valve diaphram on shifting and low end power, and it's a $20 part, so go figure!
Is it hard to replace? & do happen to have the link to this part?
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 08:53 AM
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I replace 4 cam sensor and 4 cam solenoid after a month i find oil in injector plug and knock sensor plug i wondering from where this oil come from and i find all this oil come from oil pump solenoid i replace it at dealer now no more oil in all harness keep your eye on it or you will destroy the ECU
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BiturboSF
Is it hard to replace? & do happen to have the link to this part?
No it's super easy, just one bolt. Vacuum pump is at the rear of the engine on the drivers side, there is a valve with a single T-25 bolt and a vacuum line attached to the nipple. Remove the vacuum line (carefully as they get hard over time), remove the bolt, and VERY carefully remove the check valve. I say this because if you drop and lose the plastic ring that holds the rubber in the middle of the valve then you can't reinstall (and it's small and easy to drop, I recommend a rag underneath it as you extract it). Sometimes it stays behind in the hole so just carefully get it out with a pick or thin needle nose pliers.

If you do lose it, you can get whole replacement valves but only from overseas (i.e. China) vendors so it takes a week or two to show up. Or, just order one (or two, they are $9 each) ahead of time before you do the work, lots of options on Ebay. More expensive ($20), but quicker to get, is just the rubber klifex vacuum piece (just search klifex rubber vacuum repair on Amazon, will show for Ford Ecoboost etc but it's all the same part), that only took a day to show up.
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 07:46 PM
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I'm surprised no one has asked this yet, but can anyone verify the part number for the wiring harness?
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