Is that the oil pump solenoid or something else ? Where is it ?

 

Yes, it's the two-stage oil solenoid in the oil pan

 

Limited oil circulation helps ACCUMULATE unremoved PISTONS' HEAT that jams crusted rings.


You have found the pump solenoid connector was hoosing oil into engine harness.
The other high-heat locations near both heads must have been sizzled (injectors, coils, CPS, elbow, ...)

The "extreme heat" setup is a personal choice early on before damages have set in.

> Setup choices are:

• Replace heat damaged parts: MOD-0
• Mixed results may vary with: MOD-1
• Prevent issues to begin with: MOD-X

-- Expect your Lambdas will be receiving endless drops of harness oil that cause "rich mixture" CEL faults.

-- Install sacrificial extensions ("pigtails") to preserve exhaust up/down stream sensors.
More P/N research necessary.

-> No problem then enjoy.

Next we're going to review MOD-X strong throttle response & precise shifts for premium driveability.

 

Hi guys. I typed my car into the local parts place and I searched for Motul in particular because I've heard that's the what I need. It only came back with 5w50. I'm in Australia, it gets hot here, summer usually around 35 degrees Celsius. Winters get not that bad. Maybe 4 degrees.

Anyway my question is, I've seen in the forum's 5w40 is the main choice, is 5w50 ok? Or should I ignore the online advice?

 

@MarkymarkC43 Try to look for "Molygen"

 

Is that a brand? Or a type of oil?
Nvm, it's liquid moly, I just looked it up.
5w40 for that?

 

I honestly have never heard of Liquid Moly for inside my engine. I use their brake and other fluids. In the engines it seems that majority of us are on LiquidMoly (then there are the others who have mixes and others who keep Mobil1 - in our GLS I just keep Mobil1).

 

What about this other stuff he uses? Ceratech?

 

I'm running the Motul 5w-50.

 

Sorry you confuse me? U never heard of liquid moly in the engine, but majority use it? Which 1 is it ? 😂 😂

 

What car? And all good?

 

Here's the post You want to read. By Cifdig He's worked on tons of the M157 motors. Knows them inside and out.


with respect it’s not uncharted . I mention this back in 2023 to save you guys the trouble. It was already tested and confirmed. Any good brand 5w50 is better then 0-40. I tried saving you guys time you could have been using 5w50 for the passed few years already lol. Real world results goes a long way fellas . Not knocking you brotha just stating that sometimes listening to people like Tasos , and other people with years experience on this motor could save you guys a lot of time and trouble . Hope this doesn’t come off offensive it’s not my intention. I think it’s now safe to say Mobil 0w40 has caused its fair share of scoring because of it failing to do its job and protect cylinder walls appropriately

 

Ummm I don't see the post.
Or is this a copy and paste?

 

Copy paste from the 4000+ posts on oil solenoid.

 

Thanks mate. Appreciate it. I might go the Motul 5w50 then. This will be my first time doing anything in my car ever. Second is going to be the cam adjusters.... 🤣🤣🤣

 

This is a excellent selection for pressure stability under modest to high temperatures.
This premium PAO lubricant will effectively cool and clean your engine aka. MOD-X.

Use not ceratec additive in your engine!!
Its heavy solids deposit everywhere to freeze up pistons rings... that is exactly what we are trying to keep clean with non-burning PAO high-quality oil.

Clean sealed contribution results will keep improving gradually over 10,000Miles.


> 4000+ Posts Later....
-- The ineffective part-time spray cooling is the No1 contributor to hot drafty pistons in MOD-0.

-- The opposite setup runs better: effective spray cooling clean sealed pistons rings. It helps control blow-by losses to balance all cylinders with precise timings.


Stock is a good setup to save gas.

 

The oil wicked up the harness all the way to ECU, causing faults to the injectors as well, misfires, running lean. Pretty much a write-off.

 

Me too..

 

Oily Sh..t !@! - Sorry to read about your hot engine leaking oil from all its plastics sensors into its electrical harness.

These lean misfires are caused by the contaminated Lambda... easy fix !
This is not recycling time (bore-score) for this engine.

This is not terminal RIP but a basic time consuming repair: PERFECT FOR DIY'ers

This electrical damage is extensive throughout the reach of harness.


> AFTER FAILURE :

1. Scope cylinders conditions: pass/fail ??
2. New "engine harness" installed.
3. New exhaust 4X sensors contaminated
4. New engine "sensor" collection (CPS + Solenoids, oil level, CKP, ...)
5. New set of fresh ignition coils
6. Get your ECU rebuilt (capacitor + oil free)

> BEFORE FAILURE :

• Prevent extreme heat with effective cooling
• Replace CPS (+ solenoids) + oil sensor
• Install sacrificial "pigtails" extensions

The plastics in these engines don't tolerate long the extreme heat cycles. It's best to be proactive once we now what the limits are.

I don't know any better ways to prevent heatsoaks at engine stop than circulating heat out while driving = Pistons --> oil --> coolant --> radiator.


+++ Repair cost: Parts only is CHEAP
With basic DIY labor, parts-only is a very cost effective repair
Less than $2k + misc parts like coils, plugs

Engine comes out tuned-up ready for another go with guards installed.

 

These sensors wear out and are basically a wear item whether you use pigtails or not. Fantasies about "MOD XYZ" making it run cooler are just that - fantasy.

Keep an eye on them and replace when they start sweating oil. You CANNOT own one of these motors if you do not keep an eye on the sensors.

 

that's bare bone.

 

+1. Motul 5W50 8100 API SP is already waiting in my garage that spring day, when im gonna get my cls back to the streets. So interesting to see is there any notable difference how engine runs comparing to Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 API SP.

 

> HOTTER COOLING OIL...
The very first thing you will notice is faster oil warmup with coolant temps trailing oil - The stock setup warms up cool oil with hot coolant.
Everything else will be based on the cooled pistons begining to clean ring groove to seal.

> ENGINE CYLS...
Pay attention to the engine vibration level and the throttle response with even compressions.


> ECU/TCU...
The ECU will match the engine timing improvements.
Response will become stronger & very predictable.

Tranny will also undergo improvements for seemless shifts based on engine improvements. Tranny self-tunes based on historical shifts.


MOD-X:5W-50 is a no-brainer for hot engines.

 

Forgive me for my ignorance but can someone explain something to me in regards to this solenoid?

I have had the oil pressure solenoid code for about 3 years now. My M274 has been running flawlessly and looking at the cylinders with a bore scope, it's still immaculate at 257,500 kilometers.

I wanted to unplug it just for laughs to see if it did improve anything. Would I just unplug the harness from the solenoid while the car is off, or would I unplug it while the car is on/ignition is on? Seems like nothing would happen if I unplug it while the car is off since I believe my solenoid is already "stuck" open and allowing oil through. Is that the point to this whole thing? For my ECU to see that there is no solenoid while the ECU changes it's characteristics?

 

You have a M274 Cyl. turbo with a failed pump solenoid harness at 150k Mi. and are wondering what to do next?

The P06DA00 is a "lucky fault" that prevents oil pump from limiting oil pressure while driving.
Your pump is now running at normal rate from 15Psi Min. to 60psi Max.
That's nearly equal to stock Min/Max setup on a different slope. Normal pressure helps lower the opening RPM of piston spray cooling.
VVT precise positioning still suffer from pressure drop caused by squirters opening.That's where higher viscosity comes in to open squirters earlier without causing uncontrolled VVT swings.


There's a high chance normal oiling is what has preserved your M274 so far. Your engine type has a history of blowing up dry stock pistons.
Luckily your bore scopes show prestine status.


> At The Cross Roads...
-A- You can pay $10k to repair pump harness back to low pressure stock control.

-B- You can do nothing to keep running normal oiling with failed solenoid disabled aka. MOD1:5W40.

-C- You can experiment oiling upgrade to effectively cool your pistons for cleaner rings grooves and everything linked to stable pressure.


> DUMMY FIX...
Based on your report of active pump solenoid DTC, disconnecting solenoid connector should have absolutely no effect. Your solenoid DTC is an open circuit.

Plugin a "dummy solenoid" will cancel the circuit fault. This will enable a fault-free ECU scan.
Either way this DTC does not seem to help or hurt the ECU logic.

As usual keep oil service to near 5kMi max.


++++ MOD-X oil pressure
Squirters opening likely control idle pressure near 20Psi.

This enabled TWO DESIRABLES:
-1- Pistons effectively spray cooled at normal driving RPM - This disables heat accumulation that burns oil... drafty pistons!

-2- A perfectly linear pressure the primitive VVT logic map can work with to position phasers without swings.... mixture errors.

Stock W40 oil is known to save gas by shearing into W30 viscosity range. Experiment shearing W50 into W40 and liked W50 better for reasons detailed above.
The ECU+TCU logic have a hard time adapting to the stock oil setup as evidenced by driveability issues.