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Drove in some very cold air on the highway yesterday morning. It was like 23F? It took like 32 minutes to get to 176 on the oil temp. So yeah, like I said before, it doesn't seem to warm the oil any faster than before.
Drove in some very cold air on the highway yesterday morning. It was like 23F? It took like 32 minutes to get to 176 on the oil temp. So yeah, like I said before, it doesn't seem to warm the oil any faster than before.
I second this. It may be a little faster warm up but not anything earth shattering. I live in the mountains so a little coasting down hill will drop the oil temp pretty quick still too. Overall the unplug was the best mod ever and I think Kevm14 should get a patent for T shirts on His signature quote.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by TomZVB
This may have been mentioned earlier in the thread but I don’t feel like looking for it…
🤣 I hear ya!
Originally Posted by TomZVB
Where can we tap into the system to see oil pressure for a permanent solution? I have the tools to look - just need to know where.
It depends on the engine. There is a procedure for measuring the oil pressure in the WIS, Document number AR18.00-PO-1250RK. That was for engines 157, 276, and 278 in Model R231. You may have to look up the procedure for your vehicle. It will be in Group 18 for Engine Lubrication.
Drove in some very cold air on the highway yesterday morning. It was like 23F? It took like 32 minutes to get to 176 on the oil temp. So yeah, like I said before, it doesn't seem to warm the oil any faster than before.
what oil are you guys running?
biggest difference for me with this mod is engine oil (fresh Mobil 1 0W-40) reaching operating temp very fast, usually I can only get to 100C/212F on an extended run, over 60 mins of driving. now I'm there in 15-20 minutes of normal driving (ambient air temperature here is around 22C/77F)
second most noticeable change is how much cooler my garage is after shutting down the engine. previously the radiant engine heat was immense, especially this time of year. now it feels no warmer than the wife's 1.5L mitsubishi. how crazy is that.
biggest difference for me with this mod is engine oil (fresh Mobil 1 0W-40) reaching operating temp very fast, usually I can only get to 100C/212F on an extended run, over 60 mins of driving. now I'm there in 15-20 minutes of normal driving (ambient air temperature here is around 22C/77F)
second most noticeable change is how much cooler my garage is after shutting down the engine. previously the radiant engine heat was immense, especially this time of year. now it feels no warmer than the wife's 1.5L mitsubishi. how crazy is that.
I think the biggest variable here is the actual vehicle. I have an E63S. So oil temp performance should only be compared to another 14-16 E63S and honestly, maybe just another 14 because year to year changes are absolutely possible.
Currently running Liquimoly Molygen 5W-40 but will be doing Blackstone and ask them what to run. Considering switching to an API SP + 229.5. And maybe something with some Group V base stock. But that is for a different thread.
thiis a great thread. Watched Kennys video and hopefully will unplug the oil solenoid soon in my 101K mile stock E63.
WIll also perform it on dads 151K 2015 s550 - which unfortunately already has a turbo actuator valve sloppiness on one side giving us the low boost pressure code. Still debating what to do with that..
thanks to all the members who provide knowledge here
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by vdubpower
...WIll also perform it on dads 151K 2015 s550 - which unfortunately already has a turbo actuator valve sloppiness on one side giving us the low boost pressure code. Still debating what to do with that..
Is the turbo actuator valve the same thing as a waste-gate? Or diverter valve?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by vdubpower
i believe the wastegate
It doesn't appear that the wastegate actuator (#2) is available separately, though I bet you could remove and replace it. Perhaps from a used turbocharger. I don't know if there are aftermarket parts.
It doesn't appear that the wastegate actuator is available separately, though I bet you could remove and replace it. Perhaps from a used turbocharger. I don't know if there are aftermarket parts.
Yeah what I've been told is new turbos. Engine out so so both sides. Used motor options sketchy because who knows if same issues. Even if low mileage.
Just seen a video on this and some discussions and found this forum post.
I'd assume it should be the same for the M278? simply unplug it? I have a 2014 M278. Planning to put a stage 2 ECC Canada tune into it this spring. or I wonder if it can be altered somehow/controlled through vediamo/med177 file?
I seen that post about the company selling a metal oil filter housing cap with a pressure gauge in it. in my mind If i had or bought a spare one I don't see why you couldn't drill a hole in the plastic one in the middle of the hex and tap a pressure gauge into it. Only for testing purposes I would not run that day to day, but at idle or some rev's in the garage It should work just fine.
I don't know these cars well but both turbo's air blends together in the water to air cooler on the top of the engine. If you have low boost fault I'd be more inclined that its other issues perhaps. Yes your wastegate is loose/rattles but it is a common issue with these, however the drivers side turbo could in theory spin up more to help with the delay or under boosting of the passenger side turbo. (in theory)
I believe the wastegate rods are threaded, I'd look to back the nut off and get more pre-load on that rod if you can assuming its got a spring that holds it closed.
biggest difference for me with this mod is engine oil (fresh Mobil 1 0W-40) reaching operating temp very fast, usually I can only get to 100C/212F on an extended run, over 60 mins of driving. now I'm there in 15-20 minutes of normal driving (ambient air temperature here is around 22C/77F)
second most noticeable change is how much cooler my garage is after shutting down the engine. previously the radiant engine heat was immense, especially this time of year. now it feels no warmer than the wife's 1.5L mitsubishi. how crazy is that.
Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40 with MoS2 on my '14 E63S. Did the mod before the oil change and after this recent change, the difference was more noticeable. Oil has warmed up quicker for me too despite the ambient being a lot colder out now that it's winter and I'm in the middle of the desert.
I've "pulled the plug" on my two cars; one with a M276 DE35 NA engine and one with a M276 DE30 bi-turbo engine. The DE35 is stock and the DE30 is tuned. The improvement was most noticeable on the DE35 engine right away, especially in E tranny mode. It felt like it was in Sport mode. The improvement on the turbo engine was different as it allowed me to load the Stage 2 tune while having factory drivability. I pulled the plug on the turbo engine when the modified Stage 1 file was loaded and then switched to Stage 2 just because I was curious and discovered it really helped the smooth application of power.
In my case, I have only the M276 V6 engines, so I can't speak to V8 bi-turbo engines, with or without a tune. My recommendation is to try and be gentile until you are certain all is OK. When I first pulled the plug, I drove gently and then scanned for codes to see if anything was malfunctioning. Alles gut! The only DTC was the one I caused, P06DA00.
Happen to have any pics or a good description of the location? From what I’ve gathered it’s to the left and below the crank but want to be sure I have the right spot before I pull it. I have a 2015 C400 so should be the same as your SL. Do you have to pull the under tray off?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Ginco
Happen to have any pics or a good description of the location? From what I’ve gathered it’s to the left and below the crank but want to be sure I have the right spot before I pull it. I have a 2015 C400 so should be the same as your SL. Do you have to pull the under tray off?
That is the correct location. I just removed the passenger side air intake duct for better access. Kinda hard to see because the intercooler is in front of it, but you can reach around the coolant hose and feel for it.
Maybe not much help, but I remove the connector and wrapped it with waterproof sealing tape and metallic HVAC tape, then tie wrapped it to the coolant hose. This is one the passenger side.
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Originally Posted by WANTED!!
OK. I'll take a shot at it. Throwing it up to replace 2 splash guards anyways, so why not.
Happy to report that since doing this last month my results have mirrored everyone else's. It still blows my mind that this component doesn't trigger a reduced power setting, but this is one of those times I don't mind being wrong.
Happy to report that since doing this last month my results have mirrored everyone else's. It still blows my mind that this component doesn't trigger a reduced power setting, but this is one of those times I don't mind being wrong.
12-23-2023, 12:48 PM
