Oil pump solenoids
#201
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Piston oil squirters are pressure activated by a ball valve so they would in fact be on during cold start as oil pressure is high due to high viscosity even at idle.
The thrust side of the cylinder should be lubricated by windage anyways. That article mentions rich AFR as a possible culprit during cold start. Too much fuel and poor atomization causes cylinder washout.
I personally think the reason for the scuffing on the 278/157 is more complex than just that however. Maybe a combination of too short of a piston skirt, inadequate piston coating, too tight of piston to wall clearance, or wedged rings from carbon deposits.
Is there documented scuffing on other Silitec MB engines or is this unique to 278/157?
The thrust side of the cylinder should be lubricated by windage anyways. That article mentions rich AFR as a possible culprit during cold start. Too much fuel and poor atomization causes cylinder washout.
I personally think the reason for the scuffing on the 278/157 is more complex than just that however. Maybe a combination of too short of a piston skirt, inadequate piston coating, too tight of piston to wall clearance, or wedged rings from carbon deposits.
Is there documented scuffing on other Silitec MB engines or is this unique to 278/157?
#202
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Some really good info regarding scoring in this article:
https://lnengineering.com/files/2019...er-Systems.pdf
Some good info on page 7 and onwards. Seems multi factorial with extreme cold starts, cylinder washout, and piston to wall clearance with insufficient piston coating being main concerns.
https://lnengineering.com/files/2019...er-Systems.pdf
Some good info on page 7 and onwards. Seems multi factorial with extreme cold starts, cylinder washout, and piston to wall clearance with insufficient piston coating being main concerns.
So what we’re doing here in addition to shorter oil change intervals and moly/zddp additives as well as increased viscosity should really help these engines along.
I haven't unplugged the solenoid yet on my SL63 just yet, but I’ll probably get to it this week.
Last edited by TomZVB; 12-04-2023 at 04:07 PM. Reason: autocorrect mistake.
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ImolaSix (12-03-2023)
#203
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I've been preaching for years now this 0-40 oil is not geared only for the engines protection. There's so many variables. An oil a manufacturer uses has to be universal in many climates when being shipped around the world. Along with this, they have to meet emissions and fuel economy, which oil additives and oil viscosity both play a roll in . I've notice many improvements from going to a 5w50 oil that also has additional additives that is geared towards better engine protection . Less blow, less valves stem deposits, when my older engine was apart it looked impressive for an engine with 120k and 70k of which was aggressively tuned along with hundred of draggy runs many which were quarter mile hits back when I was trying to hit once impossible numbers. My point is I encourage everyone to up your viscosity but before you do take a sample of your current oil and send it in then again with your new 5w50 oil then send it in . Then find the truth of which oil is helping the most . I personally do not believe in oil additives . You should pick an oil that contain the additives you seek
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BDC90 (12-04-2023)
#204
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The recommended Mobil 1 0W40 that most people use is considered a thin 40 weight and after a couple thousand miles of driving it shears to a 30 weight. About a year ago I switched to the Castrol 0W40 which is considered a true 40 weight oil and the reduced valvetrain noise at idle was noticeable.
For my climate and cold viscosity requirement (and stock power) this oil seems to be sufficient, however if I was in a warmer climate and tuned I would most likely be running the Mobil 5w50 as it's a fantastic oil. I agree about the additives as well being unnecessary. Lots of info on BITOG regarding the oils mentioned here.
For my climate and cold viscosity requirement (and stock power) this oil seems to be sufficient, however if I was in a warmer climate and tuned I would most likely be running the Mobil 5w50 as it's a fantastic oil. I agree about the additives as well being unnecessary. Lots of info on BITOG regarding the oils mentioned here.
#205
Member
I've been preaching for years now this 0-40 oil is not geared only for the engines protection. There's so many variables. An oil a manufacturer uses has to be universal in many climates when being shipped around the world. Along with this, they have to meet emissions and fuel economy, which oil additives and oil viscosity both play a roll in . I've notice many improvements from going to a 5w50 oil that also has additional additives that is geared towards better engine protection . Less blow, less valves stem deposits, when my older engine was apart it looked impressive for an engine with 120k and 70k of which was aggressively tuned along with hundred of draggy runs many which were quarter mile hits back when I was trying to hit once impossible numbers. My point is I encourage everyone to up your viscosity but before you do take a sample of your current oil and send it in then again with your new 5w50 oil then send it in . Then find the truth of which oil is helping the most . I personally do not believe in oil additives . You should pick an oil that contain the additives you seek
#206
Member
The recommended Mobil 1 0W40 that most people use is considered a thin 40 weight and after a couple thousand miles of driving it shears to a 30 weight. About a year ago I switched to the Castrol 0W40 which is considered a true 40 weight oil and the reduced valvetrain noise at idle was noticeable.
For my climate and cold viscosity requirement (and stock power) this oil seems to be sufficient, however if I was in a warmer climate and tuned I would most likely be running the Mobil 5w50 as it's a fantastic oil. I agree about the additives as well being unnecessary. Lots of info on BITOG regarding the oils mentioned here.
For my climate and cold viscosity requirement (and stock power) this oil seems to be sufficient, however if I was in a warmer climate and tuned I would most likely be running the Mobil 5w50 as it's a fantastic oil. I agree about the additives as well being unnecessary. Lots of info on BITOG regarding the oils mentioned here.
For the purposes of protecting what I think is generally considered a fragile area for my M157, I'm really looking hard at using Driven DI40.
#207
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
Mobil-1 Euro.... NOT!
It's actually not recommended for GDI engines because of destructive pre-ignition issues. The high calcium is directly associated with engine sludge, right?
This confirms viscosity issues of the W40 being a high W30 when new. Best for cold climates only.
What do you guy think about the Pennzoil Platinum Shell oil ??
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-04-2023 at 07:56 PM.
#208
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
I run 0W-40 Euro in my M273 with good results. 5W-40 Liquimoly Molygen in the E63.
Pennzoil Platinum is good. I think their Ultra line is regarded as the closest thing to Amsoil that is actually widely available.
Pennzoil Platinum is good. I think their Ultra line is regarded as the closest thing to Amsoil that is actually widely available.
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#210
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'14 E63S, '00 E430, '07 C230
Same here with the Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40 in my E63S, have had far less issues with topping off oil vs when I had Mobil 1 5w40 in it. Which from the video CaliBenz posted, isn't as advertised.
#211
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
I do wonder if Molygen is good with the pre-ignition issue noted on the M1 0W-40. Technically Molygen isn't 229.5 (last time I checked).
Both Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 and 5W-40 meet API SP (includes low speed preignition protection) and 229.5.
Both Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 and 5W-40 meet API SP (includes low speed preignition protection) and 229.5.
Last edited by kevm14; 12-06-2023 at 05:47 AM.
#212
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My last turbo car consumed everything but the Motul 5w-40. Since FCP Euro had it and it met MB specs I used it last 2 changes. I did not need to add any oil. I just got a Blackstone report back and it was great .
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2008 E350 (W211 @170K), 2012 ML350 (W166 @119K), 2014 E350 Sport (W212 @96K), 2015 ML350 (W166 @92K)
The sedan went from @1 1/2 quart/10K miles to 0/5K miles. In addition to that, it does not have that burnt oil smell after the Italian tuneup,
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CaliBenzDriver (12-06-2023)
#214
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2016 E63 S AMG Wagon
FYI: The YouTube channel " I Do Cars" features teardowns of various failed engines in order to determine likely cause of failure. The most recent episode is the teardown of an M278 Biturbo. Guess what the obvious cause of failure was? You got it!
#215
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
ODD PRACTICES....
FYI: The YouTube channel " I Do Cars" features teardowns of various failed engines in order to determine likely cause of failure. The most recent episode is the teardown of an M278 Biturbo. Guess what the obvious cause of failure was? You got it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubMyWT49IWs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubMyWT49IWs
Is this purposely done to reset expectations?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-08-2023 at 05:51 PM.
#216
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C63 W204 / E63S W212 / E63S W212
Just disabled this solenoid as well, without disconnecting the battery. No CEL on the dash, cranks slightly longer than usual. The car does rev a bit faster and is more responsive at lower rpms, also is slightly quieter at idle.
I think this mod + IC pump rewire are top mods for this platform.
I think this mod + IC pump rewire are top mods for this platform.
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#217
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
GM uses it. Probably everyone does at this point. Toyota uses 0W-16 oil. It's to help meet the draconian fuel economy and emissions regulations that our unelected bureaucrats put in place. I don't know why everyone plays this game like these companies have all the answers, we just need to force them to give us the good products by law. The car business is EXTREMELY competitive. If a company had a technology or product that was clearly beneficial for the consumer, they would bring it to market. They aren't secretly holding back 10 mpg, if only the geniuses in our gov't would force them to sell it to us. You'd have to be born yesterday to believe that. The point is to regulate the ICE out of existence which 20 years ago would have qualified as a conspiracy theory. Now, it's just what's happening.
Last edited by kevm14; 12-13-2023 at 03:28 PM.
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Just disabled this solenoid as well, without disconnecting the battery. No CEL on the dash, cranks slightly longer than usual. The car does rev a bit faster and is more responsive at lower rpms, also is slightly quieter at idle.
I think this mod + IC pump rewire are top mods for this platform.
I think this mod + IC pump rewire are top mods for this platform.
I haven't really noticed anything reversing itself. I should have checked fuel trims before and after (maybe someone else can) to see what kind of actual adaptation is taking place. The engine clearly runs better and smoother, and sounds it, too. I still want to know if this mod is effective even on an extremely low mileage engine. I can't believe the car shipped this way (meaning, I don't actually believe it - I think oil pressure must decrease a bit as miles accumulate and there probably wasn't much margin in the cam phasers).
Last edited by kevm14; 12-13-2023 at 03:29 PM.
#219
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
NORMAL vs. HALF PRESSURE... DUH !
I didn't get much from a new pump and the rewire. Maybe it's time to do plugs and coils (I have them in a box). I also can say I really don't think my oil warms up faster. In 30 degree air it still takes like 17 minutes to get to 175F. Maybe I need a new oil thermostat (no thanks, unless it's easy, or I can combine it with a future WP job).
I haven't really noticed anything reversing itself. I should have checked fuel trims before and after (maybe someone else can) to see what kind of actual adaptation is taking place. The engine clearly runs better and smoother, and sounds it, too. I still want to know if this mod is effective even on an extremely low mileage engine. I can't believe the car shipped this way (meaning, I don't actually believe it - I think oil pressure must decrease a bit as miles accumulate and there probably wasn't much margin in the cam phasers).
I haven't really noticed anything reversing itself. I should have checked fuel trims before and after (maybe someone else can) to see what kind of actual adaptation is taking place. The engine clearly runs better and smoother, and sounds it, too. I still want to know if this mod is effective even on an extremely low mileage engine. I can't believe the car shipped this way (meaning, I don't actually believe it - I think oil pressure must decrease a bit as miles accumulate and there probably wasn't much margin in the cam phasers).
-1 - Preserves engine: lubricate, cools, clean cylinders with squirters instead of fumes below 3500Rpm.
> Very likely prevent scored bores.
-2 - More output power: It provides normal oil pressure to camshaft timing gear to allow them to get positioned instead of locked on low pressure.
> That prevents rattling loose VVT pins.
-3 - Cools heads: lubricate all cam lobes and HPFP shaft, needle rollers.
> That prevents CPS "Oil-in-Harness" ECU damages.
This is caused by a faulty ECU firmware feature that limits oil circulation below 3500.RPM. We don't need to wait for an updated code to fix this bug!!
✌️
++++ Tstats: MAPPED Temps...
With normal cylinder squirting, piston heat is removed much more proactively.
-- I am beginning to think the prior extreme temperatures may have prematurely roasted key engine plastics like the coolant/oil Tstat. We know about the leaky CPS on the heads.
-- It's a possibility you may have a case of jammed open oil tstat - Compare your results with other TT.
-- On the flip side, it seems the temperature management is map driven very much like fuel trim mixture is map filtered. Not a direct sensor action. Let the ECU learn cooling response before assuming "plastic Tstats are cooked"
-- I am beginning to think about swapping my coolant tstat for good measure at 55kMi perhaps within 6 month...
Tasos always find Tstats wasted into pieces with seals lost inside the engine galleries.
++++ Priorities CAN-Bus
I am currently motivated to finish my rework of CAN-Bus latencies. ✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-13-2023 at 05:14 PM.
#220
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Hey guys, looking for a quick answer before I dive deeper. I’ve been following along with the thread don’t ever remember reading about a check engine light. For the sake of the forum, I took a video of start up to compare noises because my car had not been run in about five days Personally I didn’t notice one difference but within about six minutes I had a check engine light. What is this a result of unplugging the oil solenoid? I will be pulling out star shortly so we’ll report back but I’d love to hear your suggestions. this makes it very hard for me to take a perfectly running car, unplug something and not notice one difference, except for check engine light .
editing to add that I did allow the car to warm up, which took about six minutes slow drive, no change in mct behavior, and then I parked the car and ran in and got some food and came back out and had a check engine light when I started
editing to add that I did allow the car to warm up, which took about six minutes slow drive, no change in mct behavior, and then I parked the car and ran in and got some food and came back out and had a check engine light when I started
Last edited by Baltistyle; 12-13-2023 at 08:02 PM.
#221
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Hey guys, looking for a quick answer before I dive deeper. I’ve been following along with the thread don’t ever remember reading about a check engine light. For the sake of the forum, I took a video of start up to compare noises because my car had not been run in about five days Personally I didn’t notice one difference but within about six minutes I had a check engine light. What is this a result of unplugging the oil solenoid? I will be pulling out star shortly so we’ll report back but I’d love to hear your suggestions. this makes it very hard for me to take a perfectly running car, unplug something and not notice one difference, except for check engine light .
editing to add that I did allow the car to warm up, which took about six minutes slow drive, no change in mct behavior, and then I parked the car and ran in and got some food and came back out and had a check engine light when I started
editing to add that I did allow the car to warm up, which took about six minutes slow drive, no change in mct behavior, and then I parked the car and ran in and got some food and came back out and had a check engine light when I started
#222
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
CEL
Hey guys, looking for a quick answer before I dive deeper. I’ve been following along with the thread don’t ever remember reading about a check engine light. For the sake of the forum, I took a video of start up to compare noises because my car had not been run in about five days Personally I didn’t notice one difference but within about six minutes I had a check engine light. What is this a result of unplugging the oil solenoid? I will be pulling out star shortly so we’ll report back but I’d love to hear your suggestions. this makes it very hard for me to take a perfectly running car, unplug something and not notice one difference, except for check engine light .
editing to add that I did allow the car to warm up, which took about six minutes slow drive, no change in mct behavior, and then I parked the car and ran in and got some food and came back out and had a check engine light when I started
editing to add that I did allow the car to warm up, which took about six minutes slow drive, no change in mct behavior, and then I parked the car and ran in and got some food and came back out and had a check engine light when I started
This mod does NOT produce any CEL, only a stealty fault.
Hopefully it's unrelated to engine MISFIRE.... this mod can not fix low contributing cylinders.
Perhaps you should reverse course and see ??
++++ Carboned piston RINGS stuck...
- Engine with existing piston issues may allow normal cylinder oiling to foul ignition sparks.
- Then reconnect engine plug to resume stock operation with limited oiling.
- Beware of cylinders degraded condition witnessed by high crankcase blow-by pressure.
- Inspect oil filter particulate & cylinders bores
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-13-2023 at 09:11 PM.
#223
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Unrelated. It was due to me unplugging something else. Thankfully.
The oil solenoid currently is just a soft code. Will continue to monitor.
happy to run any tests I can figure out on Xentry if anyone wants. I did watch the live data and the log did not show anything odd.
I would like to know what the below pic means.
and now to drive it a bit and report back after this weekend. Initial impressions were hindered by my mistake.
The oil solenoid currently is just a soft code. Will continue to monitor.
happy to run any tests I can figure out on Xentry if anyone wants. I did watch the live data and the log did not show anything odd.
I would like to know what the below pic means.
and now to drive it a bit and report back after this weekend. Initial impressions were hindered by my mistake.
Last edited by Baltistyle; 12-13-2023 at 09:07 PM.
#224
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
Unrelated. It was due to me unplugging something else. Thankfully.
The oil solenoid currently is just a soft code. Will continue to monitor.
happy to run any tests I can figure out on Xentry if anyone wants. I did watch the live data and the log did not show anything odd.
I would like to know what the below pic means.
and now to drive it a bit and report back after this weekend. Initial impressions were hindered by my mistake.
The oil solenoid currently is just a soft code. Will continue to monitor.
happy to run any tests I can figure out on Xentry if anyone wants. I did watch the live data and the log did not show anything odd.
I would like to know what the below pic means.
and now to drive it a bit and report back after this weekend. Initial impressions were hindered by my mistake.
#225
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)