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If anything goes wrong, you may need $3K for the mechanic's appetizers on these engines. Each camshaft is @$1000 w/o the VVT (another $800) and w/o labor. Someone was quoted $30K for a long block (if it can be found).
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by TomZVB
...AMG cars have the oil temperature monitor so that’s a win there.
Actually, all of our cars have the oil temp sensor present, just not all have that monitor exposed. My car is not AMG, but I have the AMG menu added by @BenzNinja and can observe coolant, oil, and tranny fluid temps. It is much more useful than I thought it would be! When all three fluids are in the white, the car is ready to be driven with reckless abandon. J/K
Regarding oil pressure monitoring, it is a little bit of an uneasy feeling not having a gauge to monitor pressure but an even bigger indicator (as long as it’s fairly accurate) is oil temperature.
In the offshore go-fast boat world, oil temp and water temp/pressure are actually more critical than oil pressure. Oil temp gives you a direct link to heat build/dissipation at the bearings - if something begins to heat up, then you know you have an issue to deal with. You also know when to shut it down - oil pressure can lie - next thing you know, you’ve wiped out the crank and rods (for my 509 CID Chevy’s, that’s a potential easy 3k dollar plus loss). Worse if you cook the mains and hurt the block!
AMG cars have the oil temperature monitor so that’s a win there. Using that as well as an infrared gun pointed at the sump, you can get a good idea of where things are.
Lastly, there are Bluetooth-capable pressure and temperature monitors available. They’re not cheap, but they are available to those that want to avoid hacking up the car to add gauges. About $500 for a 100 psi sensor.
I'm just making sure I'm following:
IF your solenoid is already clogged you are in Low Pressure all the time ALREADY. If you do the mod, nothing changes, you already have the problem.
IF your solenoid is NOT clogged you will default to High Pressure mode all the time.
You MAY have a problem IF you replugged in the solenoid after you have done the mod.
So, essentially if you already have an issue undiagnosed, you will simply CONTINUE to have the issue after the Mod.
So basically you'd boil it down to EVERYONE who has a high mileage or unknown service history should do an oil pressure check across their RPM range?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by AMGandS1K
I'm just making sure I'm following:
IF your solenoid is already clogged you are in Low Pressure all the time ALREADY. If you do the mod, nothing changes, you already have the problem.
IF your solenoid is NOT clogged you will default to High Pressure mode all the time.
You MAY have a problem IF you replugged in the solenoid after you have done the mod.
So, essentially if you already have an issue undiagnosed, you will simply CONTINUE to have the issue after the Mod.
So basically you'd boil it down to EVERYONE who has a high mileage or unknown service history should do an oil pressure check across their RPM range?
The only change I would make is "If your solenoid is already clogged, it will not change state from where it is. It is ALREADY open or closed. However, if stuck open (low pressure), it may become unstuck and close (default/normal pressure) on it's own."
The only change I would make is "If your solenoid is already clogged, it will not change state from where it is. It is ALREADY open or closed. However, if stuck open (low pressure), it may become unstuck and close (default/normal pressure) on it's own."
Thank you, but NOW I AM lost haha.
The mod would do that or...? If it's stuck in low pressure how could it become unstuck and go into default/normal?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by AMGandS1K
Thank you, but NOW I AM lost haha.
The mod would do that or...? If it's stuck in low pressure how could it become unstuck and go into default/normal?
I'm just saying it could be stuck open OR closed. Since it is probably normally closed (normal pressure) using a spring and is electro-magnetically open (low pressure) when activated, if electrical current is removed, the plunger in the solenoid is under spring pressure to close. If whatever debris is causing it to be stuck open works loose, then the spring would close it.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by juanmor40
Wonder if the poll should be at the W212 platform level, or across all recent models. This solenoid is used in 180+ MB gasoline models from I4, V6, and V8. The 4 pots are having a hell of a nightmare breaking pistons, wrist pin issues, etc, are they related?
We could put in the Mercedes Tech Talk forum, but I think it would be overlooked there. This is where the greatest interest lies. Unless people have been following along in this thread, they will have no idea what the survey/poll is about.
I'm just saying it could be stuck open OR closed. Since it is probably normally closed (normal pressure) using a spring and is electro-magnetically open (low pressure) when activated, if electrical current is removed, the plunger in the solenoid is under spring pressure to close. If whatever debris is causing it to be stuck open works loose, then the spring would close it.
Okay gotcha.
So I'd ultimately say:
Every owner with an engine that has one of these solenoids, should have their oil pressures checked across their RPM range to check for proper operation. Regardless of doing this mod or not.
Then, anyone who wants to do this mod, should do the same before and possibly after they do the mod to ensure proper operation.
If you have an issue with it going on already, the mod will not change the issue (unless debris is magically loosened and it closes).
Just an observation. I think the use of the terms "open" and "closed" when referring to the solenoid valve is confusing. The solenoid is either energized or not. When it is energized the valve is in restricted mode. When the solenoid is not energized the valve is in full flow mode. Carry on.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Yakatak
Just an observation. I think the use of the terms "open" and "closed" when referring to the solenoid valve is confusing. The solenoid is either energized or not. When it is energized the valve is in restricted mode. When the solenoid is not energized the valve is in full flow mode. Carry on.
Yep. That's why I have been including "low pressure" and "normal pressure" in my posts (when I remember to).
Just an observation. I think the use of the terms "open" and "closed" when referring to the solenoid valve is confusing. The solenoid is either energized or not. When it is energized the valve is in restricted mode. When the solenoid is not energized the valve is in full flow mode. Carry on.
Ya but the plunger physically moves past the two holes in each solenoid. Therefore opening or closing them.
People with factory equipped oil pressure sensors (S63, M278 cars, etc.) are you able to get an oil pressure reading from a generic obd Bluetooth module? Or is it xentry only?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by CZ 75
Ya but the plunger physically moves past the two holes in each solenoid. Therefore opening or closing them.
I think the question concerns which state is low pressure and which is high (normal) pressure. For example, does activation open or close the solenoid - or - is the default state (not activated) open or closed? We know the default/non-activated state is NORMAL pressure.
Guys, are we really asking these questions at this point? In the Tasos video I linked in the very first post, he clearly explains that a spring closes the plunger. The resting state is "closed" referring to the pressure bleed ports, meaning the default resting state assuming the plunger can close fully (i.e. not blocked by debris) is "normal" oil pressure. Electrical current is required to hold the plunger open, which exposes the bleed ports, and is the "low" oil pressure mode.
Regardless of the CONDITION of your valve, unplugging it cannot hurt anything. If it was jammed before, it will be jammed after. The difference is, the ECU won't be activating the solenoid to try pulling the plunger open (low oil pressure). Leaving it unplugged would seem to give the best chance for a sticky plunger to close on its own. OR, you could rig up a power supply and cycle it rapidly and ensure you get an audible click each time. That would prove (to me) that it is able to close. But again, there is no mode where the electrical current reverses and the plunger is forced to close. That is what the spring is for and the spring does its job whether plugged in or not.
I think what I should probably do is add a FAQ in post #1.
I think that would be great. Id still like a stickied thread with all the necessary information for the people who simply want to know what/how/why to do it.
This may have been mentioned earlier in the thread but I don’t feel like looking for it…
Where can we tap into the system to see oil pressure for a permanent solution? I have the tools to look - just need to know where.
This is an option, too:
I found a company, E63 Motorsports (out of Canada), making an oil filter cap for the M113, M156, and M157 that allows the ability to take a pressure reading. The cite the gauge that comes with it as not being permanent, but a smaller 1-inch liquid-filled gauge (similar to a rail-mounted fuel pressure gauge) would do the job. Granted, this kind of solution is not in the driver’s view, but could still be used as a pretty good tool.
It's generally a test port on the timing cover, usually somewhat obstructed by a belt or pulley when looking for it. I bought an oil pressure test gauge for my E55 but never got around to it before totaling the car. I guess I could use it on the E63...
I think the question concerns which state is low pressure and which is high (normal) pressure. For example, does activation open or close the solenoid - or - is the default state (not activated) open or closed? We know the default/non-activated state is NORMAL pressure.
Default, high(normal) pressure, is when the plunger is down sealing off access through the holes. So that’s where it stays if you unplug.
I just did the mod and had a spirited drive home. The difference on my tuned E63 is amazing.
No more lurching throttle in S/S+/M when taking off, especially from a turn.
Throttle response is much improved, almost none of the mushy/lagged feeling like the car was searching for power before going abruptly.
Oil temps definitely rose to operating temperature faster and seemed to fluctuate less on the gauge, i.e. staying around 210-216F instead of dipping down when cruising.
My engine around the plug area was filthy, but no wet oil within the connector.
I just did the mod and had a spirited drive home. The difference on my tuned E63 is amazing.
No more lurching throttle in S/S+/M when taking off, especially from a turn.
Throttle response is much improved, almost none of the mushy/lagged feeling like the car was searching for power before going abruptly.
Oil temps definitely rose to operating temperature faster and seemed to fluctuate less on the gauge, i.e. staying around 210-216F instead of dipping down when cruising.
My engine around the plug area was filthy, but no wet oil within the connector.
12-22-2023, 04:17 PM
