Oil pump solenoids
which Master Tasos is correct , it is not simply under 3,500RPM oil solenoid in operation for lowering oil pressure when car on the road,
...How bad mechanically it is to create pressure surge by approx 25-30 PSI in 0.6 seconds when oil solenoid suddenly allows higher oil pressure to occur ?
One must ask the oil pump designer. My simple mind does not like pressure surge of near double and of such speed increase.
That's like pure water is the best medium for heat transfer in the cooling system, but using only water can lead to parts corrosion and even freeze damage in cold climates.




What I want to show in the VVT white paper is how painful it is for them VVT OEM dealing with newer engines having reduced ( regulated ) oil pressure.
So even the VVT OEM is complaining

Their words is kind, they said CHALLENGE .... lol




Well, duh, that is simply "Woke Wording" as to not offend anyone. Now, who would like an undeserved participation trophy? ;-)
That said, like so many others. I am three weeks into having mine disconnected and can not wrap my head around why the car accelerates in "C" better (understand the physics and all)....just odd that MB would do that right out of the gate (I have to assume they KNEW scoring would be an issue - AFTER the warranty period if all went well for them).
I mentioned before, high performance cars are expected to wear out sooner than regular cars. So, attributing cylinder scoring to the bogus efforts to squeeze out a one or two more MPG is purely speculation (in a courtroom) or anecdotal, at best. Now, if someone comes back and shows similar scoring on a non-AMG engine, my reasoning doesn't work.
Or, since this type of 2-stage oil pump is used by other manufacturers, do they show similar scoring problems? If so, then we have a stronger case for the oil pressure management scheme being the culprit. If not, then we have narrowed down the problem to AMG engines, which is a big problem for AMG.




I mentioned before, high performance cars are expected to wear out sooner than regular cars. So, attributing cylinder scoring to the bogus efforts to squeeze out a one or two more MPG is purely speculation (in a courtroom) or anecdotal, at best. Now, if someone comes back and shows similar scoring on a non-AMG engine, my reasoning doesn't work.
Or, since this type of 2-stage oil pump is used by other manufacturers, do they show similar scoring problems? If so, then we have a stronger case for the oil pressure management scheme being the culprit. If not, then we have narrowed down the problem to AMG engines, which is a big problem for AMG.
Last edited by JCM_MB; Jan 8, 2024 at 10:12 AM.




Yes, non-AMG engines score. Do they score as often? I dunno, probably not?
Mercedes is not the only automaker to use, and have difficulties with, cylinder coatings. Mercedes is not the only automaker to use, and have difficulties with, direct injection.
In the critique community, we commonly see issues being caused by a multitude of issues. There is almost never a single variable smoking gun to make all of our problems go away.
Some variables that I believe contribute to scoring:
- Driving hard on a cold engine (differential thermal expansion)
- Extremely long oil change intervals and perhaps some oils are better than others
- Fuel quality (maybe not much of an issue in most Western countries, but I've heard rumblings of sulfur content being a contributor, for example).
- Direct injection itself tends to aggravate cylinder scoring issues due to wash down
- Cylinder coating material choice AND/OR variance in application (i.e. QC)
- Piston/cylinder tolerances
- A piece of debris (like a chunk of carbon that falls off an intake valve) gets in there and you can imagine the rest
- Yes, perhaps this oil pressure control strategy also contributes
- Detonation, poor gas and/or aggressive tunes can rock the piston, damaging the cylinder
- It's been speculated by Tasos (and others) that the M278/M157 rod/piston geometry is the opposite of what it should be (in terms of which end is fixed and which end has axial play at the bearing)
- I'll make one up, but it's probably worth something: open deck block designs, such as the M278/M157, can have less stability in the bore over time and over stressing conditions
Now is one of these maybe a stronger contributor? Sure. Is it just ONE of these things? No chance in hell.
In this day and age, cars last about 200k miles on average. My last 2500 HD Chevy truck had almost 400k miles on it when I sold it - the engine and trans were still original and I towed heavy with it (6.0L gas and 4/spd heavy duty auto). The truck is still going.
From a reputation standpoint, I’d think that Mercedes-Benz would want to maintain their claim to superiority - there are cars out there with well over a 1m miles. Supporting items might break, but the drivetrains have stood fast.
So what’s the real answer?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




There is no free lunch. You can have efficiency, cost, reliability or performance. Pick.....two? Sometimes three?
I think the issue is probably overblown, yes, but there are real casualties annually for the unfortunate few.
My list wasn't intended to make any declaration on actual statistics, only possible causality for when an issue actually occurs.




Issues with knock on startup, VVT ( oil pressure fed ) and piston slap . Note just like MB there is NO oil pressure sensor, its just a ECU routine. There is a oil light but its just a on off switch. Cylinders are Iron ..NOT coated....
Yes I have a 2020 Toyota Highlander FWD with the v6,yes it has teh solenoid, No i have not tried to disable that as it is unknown what position it defaults to.
Link for you guys to the Care Care Nut going over issues and engine removing :
Last edited by WRC-LVR; Jan 8, 2024 at 11:07 AM.




Interesting you mention that as well, similar to Tassos when comparing M177 vs M157. He said something about a closed deck preferable to an open deck.
I gotta be honest with you guys that I don't feel so bad about having a V6. For 99% of the driving I do, 400hp and Agility mode are fine. I don't challenge Dodge Demons, Corvettes, 911 turbos, or even Honda Civics. I'm not a wimpy driver, so more power would be more opportunity to get into trouble. (That's my story and I'm sticking with it.)




, I am with you 100%. I do not drive WOT, but WOB (wife on board) and she does not like me above 100mph, so I have to behave
. Even with a V6, I got my $300+ ticket already, and I do not plan to get another one.




Interesting you mention that as well, similar to Tassos when comparing M177 vs M157. He said something about a closed deck preferable to an open deck.
Dodged a bullet.
I used an autometer 2277 m12 adaptor several weeks ago to check my oil pressure with a mechanical gauge to verify that this works on the m157.
This past weekend I attempted to reinstall the gauge in order to make a video showing the pressures with and without the mod, but well before the threads were close to bottoming out it broke. I think what happened was this gets installed behind the charge pipe and i was using a 15* swivel extension that must have needed 16* or something lol. luckily it was only 2/3rds threaded in, so it was easy to unscrew the broken piece by hand. Upon inspection, the adaptor is very thin in the place where it broke.
Just a word of caution if you're using the same adaptor, would have been terrible and messy to happen while driving.
Anyway, Calibenz, S-Prihadiand JettaRed videos and research have provided an overwhelming amount of evidence for me.
Taosos and others concerns have been addressed IMO.
1. To much pressure on cold start ups? Negative, in fact the Mercedes description back up by real world videos here show the engines cold start WITH high pressure and about a minute later drop to low pressure on a cold start. Thus there is no extra strain on the pump.
2. Double pressure? (2 bar vs 4 bar) just like I and other here though, oil pressure is always linear (climbs with rpm until the pressure relief setting) its just linear under high pressure or low pressure. The exception being with the low pressure version there is a massive jump, i would call it a shock or stress at 3500rpm. If there is anything in this discussion that IMO could be harmful to the pump is would be this on/off function.
3. oil killer? Im going to disagree with an asterix. Oils are very good these days. Pressure does not kill oil, heat does. Does this mod create more heat? no. In fact i would argue the stock setup creates more heat. two examples, Imagine a scenario after an enthusiastic drive above 3500 rpm. The oil pump function would be identical in both scenarios, but now youre just cruising at 1500rpm. In the normal function, the oil is flow is reduced through the cooler, thus is cools slower. Also this pistons are now allowed to dry, thus they heat up and get very hot, I would guess 450+? so next time the rpm goes over 3500rpm and the piston jets come on, that oil is being sprayed on very hot metal, which would over heat that oil, causing it to prematurely break down.
The asterix is simply i agree, 10k miles is way to long between oil changes. longest ive ever gone on any car is 5k.
4. lastly, its hard to "override" something i am sure MB spent millions to engineer and create. extreme caution is advised and this thread is evidence of it. another thing that came to mind is who else does this? is the oil pump in my F355/F430 like this? what about lambo, corvette, porsche, r8s, etc? nope. how about any other ultra high performance or race car? nope.








It's more common than you think. It's just that the Germans tend to lead the way (aka take the risks) when it comes to stuff like this. Sometimes it pays off, sometimes it doesn't.
Yeah, right. A performance car owner is worried about the cost of 2 quarts/5K miles, and an extra gallon per fuel tank every fill.
Also, the LT2 has a rev limiter at 6600 RPM. Does it mean the pump only works at full pressure between 5500 -> 6600 RPM?
I think the bean counters and the marketing boys are running the sanatory these days. They should just stay away from the engineers and let them do their work.
Last edited by JCM_MB; Jan 8, 2024 at 03:22 PM.




Issues with knock on startup, VVT ( oil pressure fed ) and piston slap . Note just like MB there is NO oil pressure sensor, its just a ECU routine.
There is a oil light but its just a on off switch. Cylinders are Iron ..NOT coated....
Yes I have a 2020 Toyota Highlander FWD with the v6,
yes it has the solenoid,
No i have not tried to disable
It is unknown what position it defaults to.
Link for you guys to the Care Care Nut going over issues and engine removing : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQlpbdCKT7I&t=1180s
They having the oil pump control solenoid does not guarantee they abuse it.
You can most likely expect a failsafe design like we have.
> How to be positively proactive:
Use a scanner to track the status of your pump solenoid :
- idle RPM
- 1500 RPM
- 4000 RPM
Double check when your TOYOTA solenoid is active.
++++++ VVT Design :
"long story short!!'
@S-Prihadi This enlightening white paper has all the smarts necessary to understand the importance of oil pressure for VVT operations.
It even talks about the 3D mapping that I think bugs down with random oiling.
I did not know any of that when I pulled the mystery plug. It's good to read confirmation

Low pressure is clearly identified and solutions discussed. The hydraulic VVT phasers are identified as economical compared to better electrical VVT with fast response regardless of pressure consideration.
This was an opportunity for us to kill two birds with one stone. We cancelled both laggy acceleration performance and superheated dry cylinders.
I think that's a whole lot of good at once.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 8, 2024 at 06:05 PM.
As I've outlined before, these types of cars post-AMG being acquired are almost all designed to truly last the life of the warranty period. MB could care less about any of us who bought these second or third-hand. The cylinder scoring issue would either 1) be covered under their warranty if discovered while on their leasing program or still under warranty 2) only truly become a problem after the warranty while being driven to a standard car's usage (commuting, a few long distance trips per year, etc.). The long-term health and viability of these platforms are essentially only theoretically known based on calculations and limited accelerated testing periods done before production.
As I've also stated in here before, these types of discoveries and innovations like the new intakes, cifdig's intake/charge pipe he's developing, the Blackboost thermostat mod, the always-on fan mod, this mod, etc are essential for keeping these platforms alive in an era when they are essentially built to be expendable.
UPDATE ON MOD:
I've been unplugged for about 1500 miles now.
Throttle response is still astoundingly improved, it just picks up and goes even at lower RPMs.
The lurching/surging when taking off from a stop when in S/S+/M modes still has not occurred since unplugging.
The oil temps are much more stable, especially when in M mode and staying within the fun RPM range. There is fewer dramatic spikes in temperature when going to redline and when they do occur, they equalize much faster than I prior to unplugging.
The most critical to engine health I have noticed is that once I park the car, the engine area of the car no longer feels like blast furnace when you are near it. This definitely tracks with the fact that the cylinder walls are now getting oiled across the RPM range, thus allowing the oil to transfer heat away from the block through the oil cooling system. I'd theorize that this will significantly extend the life of the plastics in the engine bay that are no longer being cooked and experiencing such severe heating cycles and heat soaks.
I have noticed a noise when coming of the gas and letting the RPMs fall while coasting with no throttle applied. I don't think it's related to the mod and I hope it is not of concern. But that is to be diagnosed later.




I don't know why everyone looks past government regulations. They created the entire environment that incentivizes manufacturers to make decisions like this, chasing fractions of an MPG. GM AFM, high coolant temps on the ragged edge of overheating, SUPER low tension rings and questionable cylinder coatings, direct injection, below-reasonable oil capacities (looking at you, Honda). Oh I almost forgot, TOTALLY unreliable diesel engines which used to be the most reliable thing you could buy. Surely, the consumer would never trade off 0.4 mpg for engine longevity concerns. The argument is, what's a failed engine when we are saving the planet? What's a dead ICE when the ICE is the root of all evil? This is the world we have created for ourselves.
Last edited by kevm14; Jan 8, 2024 at 04:40 PM.
I don't know why everyone looks past government regulations. They created the entire environment that incentivizes manufacturers to make decisions like this, chasing fractions of an MPG. Surely, the consumer would never trade off 0.4 mpg for engine longevity concerns. The argument is, what's a failed engine when we are saving the planet? What's a dead ICE when the ICE is the root of all evil? This is the world we have created for ourselves.
Which is why I said it looks like AMG designed the whole system of this car to function like it is now with the solenoid unplugged, i.e. no poor throttle response, no lurching/surging when in sportier modes. The engineers who CARED about designing an awesome engine and platform in the performance spirit, made what they wanted, then the MB Corporate overlords came through and put in all their emissions and "efficiency" nonsense.
And yes, the ultimate goal of governments is for you to HAVE to ditch your ICE car simply because you cannot repair the issues that they are forced to inherently design into them now. It's the same effect of the insane Oil Change Intervals (OCI) that these manufacturers are doing. Plus, all these "sealed" systems or the "Lifetime" fluids. HAHA yes, the "lifetime" is definitely not much more, if not rated to the exact mileage of the manufacturer's warranty period. People buying these new cars are buying a disposable item, meant to last only to a certain failure point that will ultimately make the cost of repair/replacement not worth the investment for all but the diehards (basically where the W212 user base is currently). Almost every W212 BiTurbo engine being bought the last few years is now at a point in life that approx. $2-8K worth of preventive maintenance and service intervals are due. That's almost an eighth to a quarter of the value of these vehicles nowadays. It will eventually ONLY be the most diehard enthusiasts who are willing and capable of rebuilding this engine and doing/paying for electrical work to be done that will hang onto these.
Heck, I had a guy who wanted an oil change to be performed after a 1000 mile break in period he had done. He bought a brand-new Tacoma and when he asked the dealership to perform this, they refused because it wasn't in Toyota's procedure to allow it. Every engine should have a break-in period with an oil change to follow. Just goes to show that even the "reliable" brands are now buckling to governmental pressures.
beast and does what it supposed to do so I’m definitely not concerned.




https://www.reuters.com/business/aut...ns-2022-11-17/
Sometimes they cheat the regulations, sometimes they cheat us by producing cars with an expiration date.
Looking at fb this morning (M157 marketplace), someone chimed in to say they changed their oil and unplugged. After a short time, it was noted that the freshly changed oil was considerably darker than normal (the user reported that he plugged the solenoid back in). Anyone experienced similar?
My thinking is that the detergent package is doing its job cleaning all the crap off the pistons, but without seeing it/smelling it for myself, I can’t really say. If oil temp is stable, then it shouldn’t be a “cooked oil” situation - just cleaning. My thought would be to perform more frequent oil changes to see if the condition improves.
Anyway, just an interesting observation. Thoughts?




Looking at fb this morning (M157 marketplace), someone chimed in to say they changed their oil and unplugged. After a short time, it was noted that the freshly changed oil was considerably darker than normal (the user reported that he plugged the solenoid back in). Anyone experienced similar?
My thinking is that the detergent package is doing its job cleaning all the crap off the pistons, but without seeing it/smelling it for myself, I can’t really say. If oil temp is stable, then it shouldn’t be a “cooked oil” situation - just cleaning. My thought would be to perform more frequent oil changes to see if the condition improves.
Anyway, just an interesting observation. Thoughts?
I will ask my Indy to comment on the oil color or else. He usually comments on the quality of the replaced oil. I already have 600 miles on mine, and due for an oil change this week anyway.





