DIY Rear Brakes -- Took me 37 mins
#1
DIY Rear Brakes -- Took me 37 mins
This is for a complete replacement of rotors, pads, and the brake sensor. Total cost: $250. If you had to buy all the tools and jack too: Maybe $400. Mercedes quoted me $1,942.
I did this in 37 minutes using some milwaukee stuff, in my garage, in sandals and PJs.
Pre-requisites:
- Rear rotors - Amazon has them for $60/ea. Or do FCPEuro for $108/ea. or Mercedes OEM at $314. You can't turn slotted/cross-drilled rotors, so might as well buy new. Especially since turning a rotor is like $20/ea anyways.
- Rear pads - Amazon has Brembos for $120/set. Pick whatever compound works best for your use.
- ONE brake sensor. If you haven't hit the wear sensor yet on your old pads, you can reuse. $6 for FCPEuro
Tools Required -- Note, the links are the cheapest tools I could find on Amazon in case you're working on an extreme budget. Otherwise, buy some quality tools and not worry about them all turning into hammers like HF products do:
- jack
- jack stands
- 19mm deep socket -- wheel bolts
- T30 or T40 (forgot which) torx socket -- stupid rotor screw
- E10 socket -- brake pad sensor bracket
- 18mm socket/wrench -- caliper bolts
- hammer -- for throwing
- large flathead screwdriver -- pushing the pistons back into the caliper
- 3/16 punch -- driving the pad hold pins out
- Brake cleaner
- optional: Impact driver for the stupid stupid rotor screw.
Process:
1. Loosen the wheel bolts (19mm socket or tire iron)
2. Release the ebrake/parking brake
3. Raise car and secure on jack. You can do each corner or the back axle... up to you really (jack and jack stands).
4. Remove wheels
5. Remove that god awful rotor hold screw (T30/T40). If it doesn't come out, use an impact driver. If it strips, you get to drill it out and curse the day away.
6. Remove the brake sensor bracket on the back of the caliper (E10). If pass rear, remove sensor from connector. put aside
7. Hammer the pad retention pins inward (3/16 punch). Might require some jiggling of the pad retention metal clip to release fully.
8. Remove pads.
9. Remove brake caliper bolts (18mm). Put the caliper aside, if you didn't raise the car too high, you can set the caliper on the ground, otherwise, safety wire/zip tie it up.
10. Remove the rotor. (Hammer)
11. Brake clean the new rotor on both sides to remove anti-rust film (brake clean). If you did this in an enclosed space, congrats on killing some brain cells.
12. Install rotor, reinstall the rotor hold screw. It doesn't have to be super tight, remember that you (or someone else) will have to remove it in the future. Anti-seize works too. (t30/t40) OR, don't use it at all, the screw has no functional purpose other than to keep the rotor from rotating/moving when you reinstall everything.
13. Reinstall caliper (18mm)
14. Put OLD pads into the caliper. Using the screwdriver as a prybar, slide it between the pad surface and rotor, pushing against the pad, this will push the pistons back into the caliper. Do this for both sides of the rotor. (screwdriver).
15. Remove old pads. Grease up the new pads on the BACKING and EDGES where the pad touches the caliper. This helps with noise and keeps things sliding smoothly.
16a. Driver side: Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
16b. Pass side: Install new pad sensor onto the outside pad. Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
17. Reinstall retention pins. Make sure they are fully seated. You can also add a little grease on the pins to help with noise/install
18. Reinstall brake wear sensor brake. Pass side: reconnect connector
19. Reinstall wheel.
20. Repeat on the other side.
21. Torque wheels.
22. PUMP THE BRAKES TO GET THE CALIPER PISTONS TO SEAT AGAINST THE ROTOR. Otherwise, you're going to scare yourself when you try to brake.
I did this in 37 minutes using some milwaukee stuff, in my garage, in sandals and PJs.
Pre-requisites:
- Rear rotors - Amazon has them for $60/ea. Or do FCPEuro for $108/ea. or Mercedes OEM at $314. You can't turn slotted/cross-drilled rotors, so might as well buy new. Especially since turning a rotor is like $20/ea anyways.
- Rear pads - Amazon has Brembos for $120/set. Pick whatever compound works best for your use.
- ONE brake sensor. If you haven't hit the wear sensor yet on your old pads, you can reuse. $6 for FCPEuro
Tools Required -- Note, the links are the cheapest tools I could find on Amazon in case you're working on an extreme budget. Otherwise, buy some quality tools and not worry about them all turning into hammers like HF products do:
- jack
- jack stands
- 19mm deep socket -- wheel bolts
- T30 or T40 (forgot which) torx socket -- stupid rotor screw
- E10 socket -- brake pad sensor bracket
- 18mm socket/wrench -- caliper bolts
- hammer -- for throwing
- large flathead screwdriver -- pushing the pistons back into the caliper
- 3/16 punch -- driving the pad hold pins out
- Brake cleaner
- optional: Impact driver for the stupid stupid rotor screw.
Process:
1. Loosen the wheel bolts (19mm socket or tire iron)
2. Release the ebrake/parking brake
3. Raise car and secure on jack. You can do each corner or the back axle... up to you really (jack and jack stands).
4. Remove wheels
5. Remove that god awful rotor hold screw (T30/T40). If it doesn't come out, use an impact driver. If it strips, you get to drill it out and curse the day away.
6. Remove the brake sensor bracket on the back of the caliper (E10). If pass rear, remove sensor from connector. put aside
7. Hammer the pad retention pins inward (3/16 punch). Might require some jiggling of the pad retention metal clip to release fully.
8. Remove pads.
9. Remove brake caliper bolts (18mm). Put the caliper aside, if you didn't raise the car too high, you can set the caliper on the ground, otherwise, safety wire/zip tie it up.
10. Remove the rotor. (Hammer)
11. Brake clean the new rotor on both sides to remove anti-rust film (brake clean). If you did this in an enclosed space, congrats on killing some brain cells.
12. Install rotor, reinstall the rotor hold screw. It doesn't have to be super tight, remember that you (or someone else) will have to remove it in the future. Anti-seize works too. (t30/t40) OR, don't use it at all, the screw has no functional purpose other than to keep the rotor from rotating/moving when you reinstall everything.
13. Reinstall caliper (18mm)
14. Put OLD pads into the caliper. Using the screwdriver as a prybar, slide it between the pad surface and rotor, pushing against the pad, this will push the pistons back into the caliper. Do this for both sides of the rotor. (screwdriver).
15. Remove old pads. Grease up the new pads on the BACKING and EDGES where the pad touches the caliper. This helps with noise and keeps things sliding smoothly.
16a. Driver side: Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
16b. Pass side: Install new pad sensor onto the outside pad. Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
17. Reinstall retention pins. Make sure they are fully seated. You can also add a little grease on the pins to help with noise/install
18. Reinstall brake wear sensor brake. Pass side: reconnect connector
19. Reinstall wheel.
20. Repeat on the other side.
21. Torque wheels.
22. PUMP THE BRAKES TO GET THE CALIPER PISTONS TO SEAT AGAINST THE ROTOR. Otherwise, you're going to scare yourself when you try to brake.
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thesaintusa (Today)
#2
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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
This is for a complete replacement of rotors, pads, and the brake sensor. Total cost: $250. If you had to buy all the tools and jack too: Maybe $400. Mercedes quoted me $1,942.
I did this in 37 minutes using some milwaukee stuff, in my garage, in sandals and PJs.
Pre-requisites:
- Rear rotors - Amazon has them for $60/ea. Or do FCPEuro for $108/ea. or Mercedes OEM at $314. You can't turn slotted/cross-drilled rotors, so might as well buy new. Especially since turning a rotor is like $20/ea anyways.
- Rear pads - Amazon has Brembos for $120/set. Pick whatever compound works best for your use.
- ONE brake sensor. If you haven't hit the wear sensor yet on your old pads, you can reuse. $6 for FCPEuro
Tools Required -- Note, the links are the cheapest tools I could find on Amazon in case you're working on an extreme budget. Otherwise, buy some quality tools and not worry about them all turning into hammers like HF products do:
- jack
- jack stands
- 19mm deep socket -- wheel bolts
- T30 or T40 (forgot which) torx socket -- stupid rotor screw
- E10 socket -- brake pad sensor bracket
- 18mm socket/wrench -- caliper bolts
- hammer -- for throwing
- large flathead screwdriver -- pushing the pistons back into the caliper
- 3/16 punch -- driving the pad hold pins out
- Brake cleaner
- optional: Impact driver for the stupid stupid rotor screw.
Process:
1. Loosen the wheel bolts (19mm socket or tire iron)
2. Release the ebrake/parking brake
3. Raise car and secure on jack. You can do each corner or the back axle... up to you really (jack and jack stands).
4. Remove wheels
5. Remove that god awful rotor hold screw (T30/T40). If it doesn't come out, use an impact driver. If it strips, you get to drill it out and curse the day away.
6. Remove the brake sensor bracket on the back of the caliper (E10). If pass rear, remove sensor from connector. put aside
7. Hammer the pad retention pins inward (3/16 punch). Might require some jiggling of the pad retention metal clip to release fully.
8. Remove pads.
9. Remove brake caliper bolts (18mm). Put the caliper aside, if you didn't raise the car too high, you can set the caliper on the ground, otherwise, safety wire/zip tie it up.
10. Remove the rotor. (Hammer)
11. Brake clean the new rotor on both sides to remove anti-rust film (brake clean). If you did this in an enclosed space, congrats on killing some brain cells.
12. Install rotor, reinstall the rotor hold screw. It doesn't have to be super tight, remember that you (or someone else) will have to remove it in the future. Anti-seize works too. (t30/t40) OR, don't use it at all, the screw has no functional purpose other than to keep the rotor from rotating/moving when you reinstall everything.
13. Reinstall caliper (18mm)
14. Put OLD pads into the caliper. Using the screwdriver as a prybar, slide it between the pad surface and rotor, pushing against the pad, this will push the pistons back into the caliper. Do this for both sides of the rotor. (screwdriver).
15. Remove old pads. Grease up the new pads on the BACKING and EDGES where the pad touches the caliper. This helps with noise and keeps things sliding smoothly.
16a. Driver side: Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
16b. Pass side: Install new pad sensor onto the outside pad. Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
17. Reinstall retention pins. Make sure they are fully seated. You can also add a little grease on the pins to help with noise/install
18. Reinstall brake wear sensor brake. Pass side: reconnect connector
19. Reinstall wheel.
20. Repeat on the other side.
21. Torque wheels.
22. PUMP THE BRAKES TO GET THE CALIPER PISTONS TO SEAT AGAINST THE ROTOR. Otherwise, you're going to scare yourself when you try to brake.
I did this in 37 minutes using some milwaukee stuff, in my garage, in sandals and PJs.
Pre-requisites:
- Rear rotors - Amazon has them for $60/ea. Or do FCPEuro for $108/ea. or Mercedes OEM at $314. You can't turn slotted/cross-drilled rotors, so might as well buy new. Especially since turning a rotor is like $20/ea anyways.
- Rear pads - Amazon has Brembos for $120/set. Pick whatever compound works best for your use.
- ONE brake sensor. If you haven't hit the wear sensor yet on your old pads, you can reuse. $6 for FCPEuro
Tools Required -- Note, the links are the cheapest tools I could find on Amazon in case you're working on an extreme budget. Otherwise, buy some quality tools and not worry about them all turning into hammers like HF products do:
- jack
- jack stands
- 19mm deep socket -- wheel bolts
- T30 or T40 (forgot which) torx socket -- stupid rotor screw
- E10 socket -- brake pad sensor bracket
- 18mm socket/wrench -- caliper bolts
- hammer -- for throwing
- large flathead screwdriver -- pushing the pistons back into the caliper
- 3/16 punch -- driving the pad hold pins out
- Brake cleaner
- optional: Impact driver for the stupid stupid rotor screw.
Process:
1. Loosen the wheel bolts (19mm socket or tire iron)
2. Release the ebrake/parking brake
3. Raise car and secure on jack. You can do each corner or the back axle... up to you really (jack and jack stands).
4. Remove wheels
5. Remove that god awful rotor hold screw (T30/T40). If it doesn't come out, use an impact driver. If it strips, you get to drill it out and curse the day away.
6. Remove the brake sensor bracket on the back of the caliper (E10). If pass rear, remove sensor from connector. put aside
7. Hammer the pad retention pins inward (3/16 punch). Might require some jiggling of the pad retention metal clip to release fully.
8. Remove pads.
9. Remove brake caliper bolts (18mm). Put the caliper aside, if you didn't raise the car too high, you can set the caliper on the ground, otherwise, safety wire/zip tie it up.
10. Remove the rotor. (Hammer)
11. Brake clean the new rotor on both sides to remove anti-rust film (brake clean). If you did this in an enclosed space, congrats on killing some brain cells.
12. Install rotor, reinstall the rotor hold screw. It doesn't have to be super tight, remember that you (or someone else) will have to remove it in the future. Anti-seize works too. (t30/t40) OR, don't use it at all, the screw has no functional purpose other than to keep the rotor from rotating/moving when you reinstall everything.
13. Reinstall caliper (18mm)
14. Put OLD pads into the caliper. Using the screwdriver as a prybar, slide it between the pad surface and rotor, pushing against the pad, this will push the pistons back into the caliper. Do this for both sides of the rotor. (screwdriver).
15. Remove old pads. Grease up the new pads on the BACKING and EDGES where the pad touches the caliper. This helps with noise and keeps things sliding smoothly.
16a. Driver side: Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
16b. Pass side: Install new pad sensor onto the outside pad. Install new pads, make sure to slide the metal retainer in, so the retention pins can slide thru the pad holes, the metal retainer and the caliper holes.
17. Reinstall retention pins. Make sure they are fully seated. You can also add a little grease on the pins to help with noise/install
18. Reinstall brake wear sensor brake. Pass side: reconnect connector
19. Reinstall wheel.
20. Repeat on the other side.
21. Torque wheels.
22. PUMP THE BRAKES TO GET THE CALIPER PISTONS TO SEAT AGAINST THE ROTOR. Otherwise, you're going to scare yourself when you try to brake.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
well written only thing better would have been to add some pictures ..
I know PIA to take pics with phone when hands covered in nasty brake dust with a touch of grease...
I know PIA to take pics with phone when hands covered in nasty brake dust with a touch of grease...