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Yes. I have been using the Castrol 5/50 and loving it. You can see my oil story under my name if you have not. Its mentioned when discussing my cylinder walls. The goal for me was to not have to use additives, but the best oil for the application.
I’ve tried searching your posting about oil, but couldn’t find anything.
if you could forward it to me, I’d appreciate it.
lastly, any reason why you’re hesitant on additives?
I am going to poor that in ASAP after cleaning my bypass valve.
The MOTUL easter base stock truly handles high heat without oxidizing but 5w40 viscosity is too short... so it can get vaporized.
5w40 viscosity seems huge next to a modern 10w30 oil. It's just our oil pump is under rev'ed and squirters are under-sized.
Valvoline 15w40 viscosity was an improvement but the stock oil oxidize this time without vaporizing.
So it's a mixed bag
Now I am hoping the excellent Motul ester 5W50 will remain stable and cool passed 3kMi.
All marketing claims over promise an under deliver. It is really difficult to come up with a short list of good products that meet our needs and are available at a fair price-point.
+++ Nice seal! +++
What I am really enjoying are the responsive rich mixtures and solid accelerator pedal when contributions are balanced from clean sealed rings.
The ECU keeps the tranny working around 2000.Rpm... not confused with 7th gear at 30Mph!
I have been wondering that as well...
I am going to use paint thinner as a mild solvent...
poured in to cover the bypass valve cup
dump that on a paper towel for collection
rinse with unused left over 15w40 oil.
It's only a free insurance step.
I am curious to see if any metal shavings were stored.
We believe this is how contaminents that spin bearings around enter the clean oil stream.
Spun bearings are so common that may indicate a failure of the plastic bypass valve with stock oil.
I just think it’s pricey…too pricey for me at this time.
curious to hear others opinions too
motul300v is same price as motul power
the focal point is that the oil shears quick and oxidizes. 300v is a proven oil that is least likely to shear. I just don’t get why not spend more on oil to prevent such tragedy? And not to mention it’s merely a double the price of xcess gen2 and a mobil1s and liquimoly.
in life you get what you pay for right?
it seems ludacris for 63 owners to cheap out on 100 dollars compared to “generic” oil.
the focal point is that the oil shears quick and oxidizes. 300v is a proven oil that is least likely to shear. I just don’t get why not spend more on oil to prevent such tragedy? And not to mention it’s merely a double the price of xcess gen2 and a mobil1s and liquimoly.
in life you get what you pay for right?
it seems ludacris for 63 owners to cheap out on 100 dollars compared to “generic” oil.
Double-check Motul specs... best of the best... for some applications
I believe racing oil uses heavy ZDDP that's not compatible with Cats + Lambda longevity. This is done to supplement lost viscosity under high heat.
5W40 viscosity is what "MB Approval" calls for.
Ester based formula will handle racing heat without shearing into a 10W30
Within the limits of your pre-selection....
I'd use the above for its proven flash point.
You won't get a lot of missing oil vaporized onto your intake valves.
The RedLine you're showing is an excellent ZDDP racing oil for cat-free tuned ECU.
My personal fav. being: MOTUL API-SP in 5W50 weight
(received this week!)
curious as well on how our engines will react to this Motul 5w50, keep us updated please! Currently using liquid moly 5w40 no issues. Would switch to 5w50 if it’s better for our cars.
I’ve tried searching your posting about oil, but couldn’t find anything.
if you could forward it to me, I’d appreciate it.
lastly, any reason why you’re hesitant on additives?
Here you go. It also explains why I’m not looking to use additives. Too much of any of these additives becomes a negative factor in chemistry, to include ph stability. I likely had stuck rings due to too much ceratec, since my oci is super short. My only mistake in that thread might be thinking that my old motul was sp. I’ll be sending an email to find out.
Im at 1k miles with the 50 and it truly is performing better, for me.
For anyone really wanting to learn about oil and form their own conclusions, I really recommend “the oil geek” on YouTube. He is unmatched in his modern conveyance of this knowledge, imo.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Here's what I just used a couple of days ago and have experienced immediate improvement in engine smoothness and throttle response. Fairly inexpensive by comparison at about $8.50/quart or less from Walmart.
Here's what I just used a couple of days ago and have experienced immediate improvement in engine smoothness and throttle response. Fairly inexpensive by comparison at about $8.50/quart or less from Walmart.
Thanks for the recommendation, good to hear the positive experience. Now there is another option to add to my list, decisions decisons : )
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Is that an old foto of Red Line? Just wondering if new stock is API SP rated or still SN rated. Based on what we know now, I would skip it and go only with API SP rated oils. Also, not sure jumping around different oils is a good idea. I've gone from Mobil 1 to Pennzoil to Castrol but consider each switch to be my last. The theory is that different brands of oil can have different additives that may cause unintended results.
"MB Approved" oils are best for stock applications.
When you become motivated to cancel throttle lag and heatsoaks you can willfully decide to experiment beyond the limits of stock oiling.
5W40 *ONLY*
In the past, I’ve used mobil1 fs euro, Liquimoly and onto mb dealership oils. (Always a bottle of mos2 was added)
I will be passing on the redline and motul excess gen2 and decided on going forward with Motul 8100 power.
the car is bone stock, but I do driving it like it’s stolen.
Would like to use what best engine oil, money could buy at the same time staying within spec according to MB.
Last edited by E63SAMG2014; Nov 15, 2024 at 05:33 PM.
5W40 *ONLY*
In the past, I’ve used mobil1 fs euro, Liquimoly and onto mb dealership oils. (Always a bottle of mos2 was added)
I will be passing on the redline and motul excess gen2 and decided on going forward with Motul 8100 power.
the car is bone stock, but I do driving it like it’s stolen.
Would like to use what best engine oil, money could buy at the same time staying within spec according to MB.
Based on your application of spirited high RPM stock setup then I understand why you boost anti-friction package of premium oils :
-1- Motul ester base
-2- "Mobil1 Supercar"
-3- Castrol Edge
-4- Amsoil Signature
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 15, 2024 at 05:54 PM.
The more I read about LSPI it seems to be directed at GDI turbo small displacement engines. I'm not sure the 5.5 V-8 is in that category yet. I think I'm going to do one more 3-5k run with the Motul sn rated 5w-40 and continue to read more on SP vs SN rating.
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