W212 AMG Discuss the W212 AMG's such as the E63

New Brake Pads....30 min....

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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 09:27 AM
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From: Fleriduh
W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
New Brake Pads....30 min....

So, I was due (EBC reds a bit of age, light came on).

FCP Euro shipped me my FREE replacement set of pads....
  • Take off wheel (I do one at a time).
  • Use a punch to knock in the retaining pins past the sleeve in the brake caliper.
  • Use a 14mm to remove the bolt from the inside of the center of the brake caliper - leave the screw in a tad, tap with a hammer and the center pin will pop out towards you.
  • Press in on the "spring plate thing" and slide the upper (or lower) pin out of the caliper the rest of the way...the other one will go right out.
  • Wiggle the pad a tad - this will compress the three pistons a tad and enable you to slide out the front pad. You can use your punch to use the caliper hole as a leverage point to assist the pad in coming out (there is an odd hook thing on the pad to help).
  • Use your fingers to compress the pistons one at a time (as you push one in, the others may want to come out). Once you move each of the three back in - use two hands to press all three back into the caliper flat with the inner surface.
  • Slide in the pad - repeat with the inner pad (I assume some pad lube / anti squeak was spread on the back plate of the pads).
  • Slide back in the top pin, attaching the spring plate thing.
  • Slide in the lower pin, attaching the spring plate thing
  • Slide in the center pin, install the 13mm bolt and tighten.
Head to the other side of the car....each wheel took me under 15 minutes (including removing the wheel).

Now I wait till I get my new wear sensor to plug that in.
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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by OldManAndHisCar
So, I was due (EBC reds a bit of age, light came on).

FCP Euro shipped me my FREE replacement set of pads....
  • Take off wheel (I do one at a time).
  • Use a punch to knock in the retaining pins past the sleeve in the brake caliper.
  • Use a 14mm to remove the bolt from the inside of the center of the brake caliper - leave the screw in a tad, tap with a hammer and the center pin will pop out towards you.
  • Press in on the "spring plate thing" and slide the upper (or lower) pin out of the caliper the rest of the way...the other one will go right out.
  • Wiggle the pad a tad - this will compress the three pistons a tad and enable you to slide out the front pad. You can use your punch to use the caliper hole as a leverage point to assist the pad in coming out (there is an odd hook thing on the pad to help).
  • Use your fingers to compress the pistons one at a time (as you push one in, the others may want to come out). Once you move each of the three back in - use two hands to press all three back into the caliper flat with the inner surface.
  • Slide in the pad - repeat with the inner pad (I assume some pad lube / anti squeak was spread on the back plate of the pads).
  • Slide back in the top pin, attaching the spring plate thing.
  • Slide in the lower pin, attaching the spring plate thing
  • Slide in the center pin, install the 13mm bolt and tighten.
Head to the other side of the car....each wheel took me under 15 minutes (including removing the wheel).

Now I wait till I get my new wear sensor to plug that in.
Nice.

Any tips to knock out those pins?

I had the upper pin on the passenger side be 'bent' making extraction a PAIN and replaced with new pins. 3 or the 4 were straight, but for reasons unknown to me I had one bent pin. The dealership mentioned that bent pins are not uncommon and the luck of the draw.

My rears should be good for another 50k miles. The fronts brakes will be replaced this coming spring.

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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 01:16 PM
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
I guess your rotors were preserved by these pads, right?

How many Miles does it take to bed fresh pads as-is installed?

I did that "quick swap" on my rear axle clean rotor. The front being more agressive on rotors, I swapped stock Brembo's for Zimm's + Japanese ceramics.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 5, 2025 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 02:52 PM
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ECU dyno tune; EDOK TCU tune; BB intakes; sprintbooster
The ole' pad slap
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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 03:50 PM
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From: Fleriduh
W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
The lip on the edge of the rotor is less than 1.5 mm so I figured just go with it. The reality is nobody's willing to turn them because they are vented and cross drilled Brembo two-piece rotors.

this brakes set up for me has been Rock Solid the rotors are as straight as the day they were new and there was no reason to fiddle any further and risk potentially damaging a rotor pulling off the calipers.

plus, there's almost no shortcut I won't take
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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 10:13 PM
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From: par·a·dise
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Originally Posted by thesaintusa
Any tips to knock out those pins?
Push the sheet metal retainer in and away from each pin before driving them out with a punch and hammer. I believe these pins are notched in the middle with a detent at one end. That sheet metal part sits in the notched area of each pin and that holds them in place.
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Old Oct 6, 2025 | 03:51 PM
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'13 s212 63 p30. '06 LX470
Originally Posted by thesaintusa
Nice.

Any tips to knock out those pins?

I had the upper pin on the passenger side be 'bent' making extraction a PAIN and replaced with new pins. 3 or the 4 were straight, but for reasons unknown to me I had one bent pin. The dealership mentioned that bent pins are not uncommon and the luck of the draw.

My rears should be good for another 50k miles. The fronts brakes will be replaced this coming spring.
Lots of options out there for safe pin extraction. It's called a Pin punch or Pin drift. Use a mallet if you want to be extra safe as the pins will only be super tight if corroded. As mentioned, the spring pads shim retainer puts pressure on the pins. You will have to press down on the retainer to get the pins in and out. This keeps the pins strait as well.

Amazon Amazon

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Old Oct 6, 2025 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Baltistyle
Lots of options out there for safe pin extraction. It's called a Pin punch or Pin drift. Use a mallet if you want to be extra safe as the pins will only be super tight if corroded. As mentioned, the spring pads shim retainer puts pressure on the pins. You will have to press down on the retainer to get the pins in and out. This keeps the pins strait as well.

Amazon Amazon
I do/did use a pin punch. The pins were not corroded, and 3 of the 4 were a non-issue.

Appreciate the input and advice. Hoping the fronts are a non-issue.
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