Pass side....getting "the rattle"...this something y'all would try on your own? $5k to have the Indy do it (both adjusters)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-2780503400

Not sure what's involved but if that bill includes parts, I would let the shop do it.

Greater than 50% labor. There are two special tools needed...BUT, I own three cars that would use those tools...three cars with this exact same cam adjuster setup (possibly soon a fourth). Granted, this is a bit more in depth than tearing apart my entire cooling system...this is internals.

Having other transportation to drive and tackling this yourself gives you the luxury to maintain multiple items.

You spend the dealer savings in a collection of genuine parts to get this car reliable.

Why do all that work for a single item when 6 month later nearby repairs come up ????

Give it the 100k Miles tune-up all at once.

can you please remind me what's all involved with 100,000 mile tune up? I think that means it's engine out if I'm not mistaken and I do not have the ability to remove the engine

We are not looking at removing the engine out... you need to open your upper timing covers, right?

• Bk1+2 Intake phasers both sides
• ratcheting chain tensioners (Bk1+2)
• timing cover reseal (cleanup ALT!)
• PCV cover/diaphragm + discharge line
• Ignition : plugs, boots, hot coils (bore scope/compressions)
• turbo wastegates actuators +V-pump check-valve
• HPFP's at least 2x ROLLERS (+ both pumps)
• serpentine kit (tensioner, belt, idlers)
• inspect accessories freeplay (ALT, pump, A/C)
• Tstat already new, right?
• 4x New CPS + new pigtails
• 4x clean-up Solenoids.+ new pigtails
• Clean the oily intake plenum
• Clean MAF + MAP oily sensors
• Inspect your intake valves
• ....??

The big deals are the fuel pumps and the PCV that will knock out rear seal when defective.

> Fix it like you own it ...
By the time you have the maintenance list completed car should be trouble-free without back to back non-stop repairs.

Ignition parts + air filters + coolant plastic lines replumb.... are incidentals.

You can rebuild your phasers to better than new condition with a kit of plate + pin. This saving will buy all your other parts free!

You're not dealing with lower items only topside ...

• engine/trany mounts
• oil/coolant exchanger
• upstream Lambdas
• ALT genuine regulator-brushset

After that you can focus on undercarriage maintenance items: drivetrain oils + 4x stab-links, cheap suspensions bushings.


++++ updated to include both banks intake phasers, not simply one unit rebuilt.

I let the accountants add up parts supplies and savings.

So this video pops up in my YouTube feed...I mean, what could go wrong?

Notes about what could go wrong...
-- fasteners of timing cover use brital aluminum zero yield: 2-fingers tight with loctite.

Use towels to make sure nothing drops down inside the engine openings!

The back of New tensioners needs smooth sanding flat. There is not any oil seal, only metal to metal. Inspect surface for defects right out of the box.

Use a camshaft holding tool kit to hold VVT fastening torque, not the chain itself.

Bk1 intake Camshaft will likely skip forward couple teeth as soon as you free it from chain. Shaft is rotated by HPFP lobes and valve springs. You then need to work with that... valves best not kiss pistons when rotating crank without Bk1 cams.
Lon stiry short... if you have rear end camshaft access while also fixing new PCV+ HPFP parts then you'll be able to hold position with no headache.
Use a paint-marker to transfer your own reference marks on VVT's-To-Chain: teeth match pairs.

Unplug batteries as first step before disconnecting engine electricals - Use scanner to clear transient faults.

Don't overapply fat RTV sealant that can come loose later inside the engine. Replace solenoid o-Rings or better don't dusturb them if not leaking.