When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It definitely helps (I gained 3 mph in 1/4 mile) but my excitement is a little less than yours. I think it will be a huge gain if I upgrade turbos because that is where I think the CPC tune will shine. I don’t think I’m making enough power with stock turbos to make a bigger difference. Pure turbos without CPC would be a complete waste of money I’m sure.
I bought some 20” drag radials also because all I do is spin at the drag strip. I’m testing them out for the first time next Wednesday. My MPS4S were great on street (2.7 0-60) but at strip they were only getting 3.2-3.5.
whose tune are you running? are you using hptuners to log? that’s garbage, you gotta use bflash or the med1775 + cpc_ng logger i wrote
My tuner found a solution to my stuck valve issue . Here is a copy paste of a post he made :
FYI for you guys with the exhaust valves failing. We had one and i figured out the issue and the fix.
The Issue: The rotating pin on the bottom of the valve, falls off. The valve then gets jammed in the pipe bc the clearance is too tight. The motion of the actuator, jams it.
Solution: We bought a valved assembly and retrofitted it to the stock pipe. It requires precision welding, and re-work of the actuator base and valves themselves. The new valve works far smoother than the stock
happy to have a solution that does not require to change my exhaust and keep the existing OEM exhaust button functionality
Damaged OEM valve New valve assembly welded in Mounting plate that is compatible with OEM actuators
Last edited by HappE63s; Sep 11, 2020 at 07:54 PM.
Reason: Bad copy paste
My tuner found a solution to my stuck valve issue . Here is a copy paste of a post he made :
FYI for you guys with the exhaust valves failing. We had one and i figured out the issue and the fix.
The Issue: The rotating pin on the bottom of the valve, falls off. The valve then gets jammed in the pipe bc the clearance is too tight. The motion of the actuator, jams it.
Solution: We bought a valved assembly and retrofitted it to the stock pipe. It requires precision welding, and re-work of the actuator base and valves themselves. The new valve works far smoother than the stock
happy to have a solution that does not require to change my exhaust and keep the existing OEM exhaust button functionality
Damaged OEM valve New valve assembly welded in Mounting plate that is compatible with OEM actuators
i sound like a broken record but
why do all that when a CPC tune will make your car faster and solve the problem in software land so you don’t have somebody precision welding on your car...
A CPC tune could not fix the fact that my valve had a missing pin that was preventing it from opening an closing. Now that it is fixed I can look into additional software tunes
I recently got a CPC tune and installed the module my self in my 2019 E63s. I was already EC stage 2 with catless downpipes.
during my install the car was unlocked and i was working in the passenger side footwell which is a huge ***** to replace the CPC module. Before this install I have occasionally gotten the batter low voltage signs on my dash, but never paid attention as it never was a problem I drive everyday almost.
due to me working on the car with all interior lights on and the battery being drained it triggered low volatage fault stored on the car. You don’t get a CEL for this.
so when I went for a drive with the new CPC installed my car was pulling boost past 4k RPM and my dash showed WOT hp no more than 315-340. Car felt slow as ****. I was pissed off, thought it was the CPC but scanned the car with Xentry and it had the low voltage code B21059A.
So problem is I have a bad/****ty battery. The limp mode problems aren’t always exhaust valves as mine are functioning just fine right before i installed the CPC module. I will report back after clearing codes, and getting the battery voltage up to par via trickle charger overnight or new battery. (I read that the car has to read battery voltage above 85% in order to not trigger limp mode). We shall see.
Just started checking this thread, my E43 just did this today after getting new tires installed. I went into Sport+ after a 45min freeway drive home, then did a launch to check traction. Seemed to lose power halfway through, tried cycling modes and gassing again, that's when I noticed my Boost meter stayed at 0%.
I got a dealer looking at it Wednesday, but does my E43 without the AMG Exhaust package still have the same actuators as the e63 models you guys were having issues with?
Same no check engine light, so I'm going to give the mechanics some advice so that don't have my car 3 weeks.
Just started checking this thread, my E43 just did this today after getting new tires installed. I went into Sport+ after a 45min freeway drive home, then did a launch to check traction. Seemed to lose power halfway through, tried cycling modes and gassing again, that's when I noticed my Boost meter stayed at 0%.
I got a dealer looking at it Wednesday, but does my E43 without the AMG Exhaust package still have the same actuators as the e63 models you guys were having issues with?
Same no check engine light, so I'm going to give the mechanics some advice so that don't have my car 3 weeks.
Loose hose clamp at the intercooler, seems fixed for me.
it takes 3 seconds to disable the flaps in variant coding………….
a piece of metal? are you guys serious? lol
You're absolutely correct, that is much more simple, however unfortunately this was not readily available to me and this is what prompted me to produce these.
In addition, with any variant coding if I take the car in for warranty work, that will be seen by Mercedes and that could possibly result in my warranty work being declined. The dealerships here are pretty strict on that.
But yes, the coding is easier; but with my EFBs I don't have to worry about warranty issues and they are an easy install/uninstall providing the ability to revert back to stock form at any time.
Running a stage 2 tune with catless DP for 1 month then suddenly i Lost power & boost. (no cpc tune, and not interessted in doing 1 either)
Got told by my tuner he had this problem on 3 other diffrent cars that the flap got stuck, so i checked and noticed my right side flap have come off from it's position / spring.
Ive read the thread and alot of you guys seems to have gotten it fixed.
Im just curious what would be the easiset / cheapest way to fix it? I really like the sound of the AMG performance exhaust.
Would simply buying a new muffler fix it and whats the risk of it breaking again?
Or is the only solution to go aftermarket?
I see some of you guys have retrofitted other stuff. Where did you find this and how do i get them?
I hammered down the flap so its open and tried removing the spring from the motor on the side where the flap is stuck. but that didnt fix it.
Running a stage 2 tune with catless DP for 1 month then suddenly i Lost power & boost. (no cpc tune, and not interessted in doing 1 either)
Got told by my tuner he had this problem on 3 other diffrent cars that the flap got stuck, so i checked and noticed my right side flap have come off from it's position / spring.
Ive read the thread and alot of you guys seems to have gotten it fixed.
Im just curious what would be the easiset / cheapest way to fix it? I really like the sound of the AMG performance exhaust.
Would simply buying a new muffler fix it and whats the risk of it breaking again?
Or is the only solution to go aftermarket?
I see some of you guys have retrofitted other stuff. Where did you find this and how do i get them?
I hammered down the flap so its open and tried removing the spring from the motor on the side where the flap is stuck. but that didnt fix it.
Any ideas?
Send me a DM here or on my IG @charlesmax74 or text/WhatsApp on 6048687468. I made an exhaust flap bypass kit for this application to solve this issue.
Send me a DM here or on my IG @charlesmax74 or text/WhatsApp on 6048687468. I made an exhaust flap bypass kit for this application to solve this issue.
Hit this thread yesterday while digging the Internet for a solution.
My E63s (MY2019, produced end of 2018) showed the same issue few days ago. No error codes, but lacking boost and the exhaust sound has changed to sound more like my GLE63s with M157 engine (more bass, more clear V8 rumble, like there's an intake manifold mod) than to the M177...
Tried everything - the exhaust valves are working just fine, the vacuum to the turbo gates is working super fine (the valves are holding it, no vacuum leaks), but it still lacks power and sounds like the engine is running on 6 cylinders. No misfire codes, nothing - Xentry check is clean like a baby.
My mechanic is helpless and so are 2 other workshops + the official MB/AMG dealer.
2018 e63 wagon. No power after a respray of back bumper (previous owner gouged it putting something in the trunk). Dealership found the control wire to the exhaust was disconnected. Problem solved. Full boost.
I was passing on the freeway, floored it, let off, then gave part throttle and the car shuddered and went nowhere. I squeezed the throttle a bit more, shaky kinda feeling so I let off for a few seconds. No check engine lights, nothing. So I floored it and I could hear the loud exhaust but barely any power, and HP meter was red at 200-something - I felt like a straight piped Honda all noise no go. Snail.
For the next 1/2h or so was in heavy traffic but anytime I had a little space to give 1/2-3/4 throttle - nothing. Boost guage just a flat line.
After 1/2h got off the highway driving around in the city all of a sudden all the power came back! Boost gauge red again and flooring it = 624.
The exhaust flaps were and are always 100% open with the ASR module.
I was passing on the freeway, floored it, let off, then gave part throttle and the car shuddered and went nowhere. I squeezed the throttle a bit more, shaky kinda feeling so I let off for a few seconds. No check engine lights, nothing. So I floored it and I could hear the loud exhaust but barely any power, and HP meter was red at 200-something - I felt like a straight piped Honda all noise no go. Snail.
For the next 1/2h or so was in heavy traffic but anytime I had a little space to give 1/2-3/4 throttle - nothing. Boost guage just a flat line.
After 1/2h got off the highway driving around in the city all of a sudden all the power came back! Boost gauge red again and flooring it = 624.
The exhaust flaps were and are always 100% open with the ASR module.
Car been perfect since.
Any ideas?
Could be a coil going bad. I had one fail recently and it spent a day being intermittent before failing hard with a CEL.
why do all that when a CPC tune will make your car faster and solve the problem in software land so you don’t have somebody precision welding on your car...
Simple!
Some of us want the car to actually last past 100k miles (I am at 140,000+ miles on my 18 ED1 E63s with ZERO issues).
40% power and no boost after 4000rpm Exhaust Flaps and actuators problem solved✅
basically if you change only the actuators the car will break it straight away what you have to do is check the flap at the end of the exhaust to make sure both bolts from above and bellow keeps the flap in the right position, in my case the bold from downside was broken i had to cut off the exhaust tip and make some inventions so i dont have to buy a whole new exhaust just for a little flap.
IF THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AND YOUR CAR LOOSES POWER AFTER 4000rpm this is 100% the problem you have.
I know I’m spamming all these related threads - but question - can it be flaps if ALL boost is lost even below 4000 rpm? I have zero boost after freeway WOT until car off/on. Not just past 4000.
I know I’m spamming all these related threads - but question - can it be flaps if ALL boost is lost even below 4000 rpm? I have zero boost after freeway WOT until car off/on. Not just past 4000.
I know I’m spamming all these related threads - but question - can it be flaps if ALL boost is lost even below 4000 rpm? I have zero boost after freeway WOT until car off/on. Not just past 4000.
I changed the flaps and after 3hours they broke again so if you have a stage on your car just delete them by cording
Thank you
The CEL just came on but I hope it’s unrelated as I got a 12V battery message at the same time. I’ll scan in a few and post it up. Battery is coming up on 3yrs old maybe I’ll just grab a new one before anything else.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
![[Alex]'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%2391c4b8' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>[</text></svg>)
Same drama here
