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I decided to change the oil on my 2018 E63s wagon this weekend....
be for-warned....
a couple of points...
The car has to be at operating temperature.
procedure needs to be done within the first 3 minutes of shut down so that all of the oil valves are open allowing all of the oil to be able to flow out.
Remove one bottom steel panel
the M177 engine has the filter at the bottom of the engine. Just beside the “plastic” drain screw (Allen wrench) (the oil pan is basically plastic too)
Requires 9.5 qts of oil
i would have in hand a replacement oil screw plug as it might be a one time use (I didn’t replace mine as it worked fine but I will if I do it the next time)
you cannot change the oil unless you have it on a rack and a professional style oil catcher (I have a quickjack vehicle lift) ....when you remove the drain plug.... basically the full 9.5 quarts drop out in one big splash overwhelming your typical plastic oil catcher and making a huge mess on the ground.
what I will do the next time is to extract as much oil from the top and then drain the balance at the bottom.
to check your oil level, you will need to access a gauge from the “mb service” menu on the dash as these cars do not have a dipstick. (The only dipstick was me after I flooded my drive in oil!)
i’m sorry to not have included pictures but needless to say I had a bit of a cleanup to do. Luckily, I had put down construction floor paper down below the car and it took the brunt of the oil but I did trash my wife’s yoga mat that I use to lay down on.
Interesting on the 3-minute rule. So your procedure was basically to have the car running while it is up on the quick jack, shut the car off and then hurry underneath to a tsunami of oil?
Do you think you can add another step to that, ie topside extraction?
Thanks for the run down...I am going to miss changing the oil on my 997, where you don’t even need to jack the car up at all.
Sounds like such a PITA that I wouldn't care to attempt, especially in my older years now. I used to like working on cars (sort of a therapy ), and change the oil all the time in my day. There are several that I only did once and never did again, however. My old 1984 Carrera with the old crush tubes, I only did once. My old 1995 993 (the last air-cooled) was a pain. Besides the under paneling, you have to remove the rear tire, and part of the wheel well under paneling to access one of the oil tanks. I should have kept this one! Lastly, in my R8, there are 5 drain plugs, so I only changed the oil once there as well.
I personally wasn't able to see where the oil could be extracted from the top. There isn't a dipstick, and the filler hole is on top of the valve cover with no way to stick a hose all the way down to the pan. Not saying it isn't possible, but I couldn't figure it out. I even preemptively bought a vacuum extraction system before looking at it, and in the end drained it from the bottom. I just assumed that being a newer car, it came out through the top.
Check youtube for how-to's on resetting the service notifications. Its pretty straight forward.
Interesting on the 3-minute rule. So your procedure was basically to have the car running while it is up on the quick jack, shut the car off and then hurry underneath to a tsunami of oil?
Do you think you can add another step to that, ie topside extraction?
Thanks for the run down...I am going to miss changing the oil on my 997, where you don’t even need to jack the car up at all.
That is exactly how I did it. (and of course spilled everywhere) … I don't know how I will do it next time.. probably extract as much as possible from the top.. my extractor is a pump style.. It would work much better if I had an electric one.. and then release from the bottom.
the oil change experience with cars like these is suppose to be a Zen time....
quick side story about forums and advice from them....
I had a GL63 and the 997. I had seen where a guy had jacked his 997 up using the largest quick jack 7000. He had posted the pics of the car up on the jack looking good. Well, that was enough for me so I ordered the 7000xl thinking that I could do both the GL, Porsche, and my Jeep JKU... So I put my Turbo on the jack... but you couldn't take the wheels off!!!! when you lifted the car, the tires dropped down on to the jack and their you were... FCKD! I went back onto the rennlist forum and PM'd him asking how he got his tires off. He told me that he hasn't been able to make it work!!! I'm like "dude... you gotta update the thread to that effect!!!" anyway... I use small ramps on the front wheels and parts to the SUV adapter and then I can make it work.... but adding insult to injury, When I was changing the front diff fluid on the Porsche, the angle was enough that I didn't get an accurate amount of fill and actually overfilled the diff! Luckily, I caught the mistake and leveled the car and rechecked allowing the rather significant over fill to come out.
take those bumps (with 42psi in your front wheels) in the road and enjoy those Zen moments....cheers!
This is great info, thanks! Had a couple of questions if you have a moment:
- What quickjack do you use? I have the 7000slx but it's a little too short for the wagon. I've used it horizontally but thought about getting the extension kit (unclear if that makes it work normally though). How did you lift yours?
- Is the oil almost 200 degrees if you've brought the engine to temp? Any risk of burning yourself as the oil comes out?
Getting close to oil change time and want to just do it myself.
Originally Posted by cyclrder
I decided to change the oil on my 2018 E63s wagon this weekend....
be for-warned....
a couple of points...
The car has to be at operating temperature.
procedure needs to be done within the first 3 minutes of shut down so that all of the oil valves are open allowing all of the oil to be able to flow out.
Remove one bottom steel panel
the M177 engine has the filter at the bottom of the engine. Just beside the “plastic” drain screw (Allen wrench) (the oil pan is basically plastic too)
Requires 9.5 qts of oil
i would have in hand a replacement oil screw plug as it might be a one time use (I didn’t replace mine as it worked fine but I will if I do it the next time)
you cannot change the oil unless you have it on a rack and a professional style oil catcher (I have a quickjack vehicle lift) ....when you remove the drain plug.... basically the full 9.5 quarts drop out in one big splash overwhelming your typical plastic oil catcher and making a huge mess on the ground.
what I will do the next time is to extract as much oil from the top and then drain the balance at the bottom.
to check your oil level, you will need to access a gauge from the “mb service” menu on the dash as these cars do not have a dipstick. (The only dipstick was me after I flooded my drive in oil!)
i’m sorry to not have included pictures but needless to say I had a bit of a cleanup to do. Luckily, I had put down construction floor paper down below the car and it took the brunt of the oil but I did trash my wife’s yoga mat that I use to lay down on.
Is the drain plug the standard diameter and thread pitch found on most cars? I'm sure that there is a Fumoto valve would work. I have one on a couple of my vehicles, but especially my F-250 with the diesel engine. The valve allows you to control the flow of oil and turn off mid stream of desired. You can, for example, control the flow enough to drain into empty one quart/liter bottles, or if you don't have one big oil pan, stop the flow so you can switch the full one out for a new empty one.
2020 E63S Wagon, 2007 335i convertible (tuned to 400hp), 2011 Audi A4 Avant
Originally Posted by E634Me
Is the drain plug the standard diameter and thread pitch found on most cars? I'm sure that there is a Fumoto valve would work. I have one on a couple of my vehicles, but especially my F-250 with the diesel engine. The valve allows you to control the flow of oil and turn off mid stream of desired. You can, for example, control the flow enough to drain into empty one quart/liter bottles, or if you don't have one big oil pan, stop the flow so you can switch the full one out for a new empty one.
Interesting...just went to the website, and they have a "choose your vehicle" tool to find the right valve. It only goes up to 2017, and doesn't list the AMG E series. It DOES list the C 63S, which should use the same drain plug size....
I assume the "lever clip" shown prevents inadvertent opening of the valve?
Yes. Prevented the Honda service people from changing the oil on my wife's Odyssey once They couldn't figure it out and had to call me. Last time I ever took it to that dealership because, well, it's not rocket science and if they couldn't figure that out I'm not sure I want them working on other more complex systems on the car.
I also have one on both my Jeep and F-250. Spring loaded lever that you have to push up over the notch into the slot then twist to open the valve. I worried about it on the Jeep which I do off road with and occasionally am running over bushes and other things that might possibly brush up against it. But it's never been a problem and would be a one in a million event if it ever happened.
Have not put one on the E63s as I have the prepaid maintenance and don't have to worry about it for the next few years.
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), and change the oil all the time in my day. There are several that I only did once and never did again, however. My old 1984 Carrera with the old crush tubes, I only did once. My old 1995 993 (the last air-cooled) was a pain. Besides the under paneling, you have to remove the rear tire, and part of the wheel well under paneling to access one of the oil tanks. I should have kept this one! Lastly, in my R8, there are 5 drain plugs, so I only changed the oil once there as well.
