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some time ago I read a post about a way to slightly change the front wheel camber in regards to improve tire wear . . . . Picked up my car from a shop after a quick oil change, just to be told that the front tires have metal showing on the inside of the tire. I did read something about camber bolts . . . ? Can anybody point me in the right direction, where to start looking? Is that a major mod or can any decent shop do an install? If I'm doing that, what are the pros & cons of such a mod?
Assuming you've lowered your MB, you need adjustable A arms. F1 Fabrication sells them (email and ask). Any decent shop can install them. Be sure to have a full alignment after the arms are installed. I destroyed my front tires in 2K miles after I lowered and aligned with the stock A-Arms (also +15mm front and +12mm rear offset) I have over 10K on the tires I put on when I had the A-Arms installed. No unusual wear.
If it is bone stock then you need none of that. It is either badly out of alignment, low tire pressure, or there's something wrong in the suspension. Probably not low tire pressure as that would result in wear on the inside and outside edges.
cars have a very aggressive toe, and wears inside edge horribly. i've a ton of tread left, with similar cords showing on the inside edge. the existing suspension allows for very little adj, but having them take out as much toe and camber is somewhat helpful. running a high front tire pressure >45 helps. i keep front at 45 cold, and rears at 35 or else the ride is pretty bad.
I experienced that with my front tires, inner tires were so worn out that one blew on me. Stock suspension. around 24,000km. I was told by my dealer that the front tires need to be at around 40-42 psi due to the weight of vehicle. I set them at around 36-37psi at most of the time. Dealer checked my alignment after installing the new tires and said the alignment was not way out from the factory specs. at all. It is the nature of this high performance cars that the suspension is set such a way that focus more on cornering. Both front tires.
Last edited by bobblehead; 12-10-2021 at 12:25 PM.
My front tires were done within the first 10,000 miles. I ran 41/33 front/rear.
Switched to Michelin which are wearing better, we'll see. I have my annual service coming up soon and will get feedback on how they are doing, but they definitely wear more on the inside of the tire due to the high camber setup from the factory.
I run mine at 41 front, 35 rear so it sounds to me that this is just a 'regular' thing. I'll have alignment checked again prior to mounting new Michelins if I can get in anywhere . . .
Assuming you've lowered your MB, you need adjustable A arms. F1 Fabrication sells them (email and ask). Any decent shop can install them. Be sure to have a full alignment after the arms are installed. I destroyed my front tires in 2K miles after I lowered and aligned with the stock A-Arms (also +15mm front and +12mm rear offset) I have over 10K on the tires I put on when I had the A-Arms installed. No unusual wear.
Camber is not the only thing that wears out your tire, toe does as well and probably more.
some time ago I read a post about a way to slightly change the front wheel camber in regards to improve tire wear . . . . Picked up my car from a shop after a quick oil change, just to be told that the front tires have metal showing on the inside of the tire. I did read something about camber bolts . . . ? Can anybody point me in the right direction, where to start looking? Is that a major mod or can any decent shop do an install? If I'm doing that, what are the pros & cons of such a mod?
Yes because of cost cutting and ever increasing speed of assembly lines Camber and Caster adjustment has been done away with. Now only front and rear Toe - “directional” adjustment.
.... no longer being able to adjust Tire “contact angles” - to spread load more evenly for other then showroom height conditions. Day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads, altered height / wheel squat through load carrying or lowering, fitting wide profile tires or simply curb knock damage.
We saw the need therefore to cater for these OEM shortcomings. Continually designing and developing Front and Rear adjuster kits requiring no mods to suit over 30 makes Audi to Volvo. With the Mercedes Benz range covering every model 1968 to 2021.
Early Mercedes Benz models (having OEM Camber and Caster adjustment) we manufacture "replacement" that double the existing adjustment range - and at same time the advantage of replacing the 4 main highest wearing bushings.
Have attached listing (Front & Rear) re W213 AMG (CLICK SPOILER BELOW)
There are ‘4’ front kits - #4 at $295 (both sides precisely Camber adjustable) is less outlay then one hi performance tire and can install without need for arm removal.
Spoiler
*W213 AMG (Both sides) All precisely Adjustable
FRONT ADJUSTER KITS: CAMBER - More even tire wear traction. CASTER - Reduced dive / lift, improved directional control, Correctly resolve steering pull.
#1. Replacement Upper Camber (& also Caster) Adjustable A Arms.
KMAC are not welded, fabricated being a critical suspension component. Instead security, peace of mind manufactured (same as OEM) from Hi-strength hot forged alloy #503316-3P $795
#2. Front Upper Inner A Arm Bushings. Less cost, plus no warranty issues as using EXISTING OEM forged alloy arms.
Camber (& also Caster) Adjustable. Includes bush extraction tool. Fit without need for arm removal.#503316-2J $380
#3. Ultimate Front Lower Arm Bushings. Camber (& also Caster) Adjustable (the 4 main highest wearing)
Unlike upper A arms retains clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to resolve premature inner edge tire wear.
Includes bush extraction tool. Also forward facing thrust arm / Caster bushes are Monoball / 2 Axis. Significantly improving brake and steering response #503416K $480.
#4.Front Lower Arm Bushings Camber (only) adjustable.
Includes bush extraction tool - fit without need for arm removal #503416-1G $295
REAR ADJUSTER KITS:
#5. Lower Arm Camber (and “extra” Toe to compensate) Adjustable Bushings.
Includes bush extraction tool.
AMG Models Lower arms have provision for OEM offset Camber plates but inaccurate / one offset position, Providing only .3 of one degree. KMAC is precise / single wrench and can adjust accurately on alignment rack (under load). Providing 4 times the adjustment range. #502226K $480
#6. Replacement Upper Camber (and “extra” Toe) Adjustable arms.
Not welded, fabricated or extruded aluminum but same as OEM - the security of hi-strength Forge alloy#502226-1M $595
NOTE: When adjusting to resolve premature inner edge tire wear - #5 retains clearance top of tire to outer fender while upper arms #6 reduces this clearance.
Delivery Worldwide $40 one kit ($60 Front & Rear)
I'm experiencing the same issue, my E63 wagon is at the dealer for some other service and they said cords were showing on the front tires.
Seems ridiculous that a car would be designed from the factory to wear so aggressively on just the inside edge, not even gradual wear across the tire, the rest of the tire is fine
I had posted about this before, i took it to 2 dealers because the car doesnt track straight and would pull/drift even on perfectly flat new pavement, and they just tried to align it and it didnt help, and they refused to try anything else.
I'm experiencing the same issue, my E63 wagon is at the dealer for some other service and they said cords were showing on the front tires.
Seems ridiculous that a car would be designed from the factory to wear so aggressively on just the inside edge, not even gradual wear across the tire, the rest of the tire is fine
I had posted about this before, i took it to 2 dealers because the car doesnt track straight and would pull/drift even on perfectly flat new pavement,
"and they just tried to align it and it didnt help, and they refused to try anything else".
That's right. There is no Front or Rear Camber or Caster for them to adjust !
Wow, this sucks. I experienced the same front tire wear but I thought this was due to the lowering of my car, and not having a proper alignment thereafter. This time after getting new PS4S, I had an alignment but they informed me that the camber was still negative although the toe-in was much improved. We'll see in 5k miles or so.
Last edited by CALBenzo; 12-15-2021 at 06:30 PM.
Reason: spelling
I'm experiencing the same issue, my E63 wagon is at the dealer for some other service and they said cords were showing on the front tires.
Seems ridiculous that a car would be designed from the factory to wear so aggressively on just the inside edge, not even gradual wear across the tire, the rest of the tire is fine
I had posted about this before, i took it to 2 dealers because the car doesnt track straight and would pull/drift even on perfectly flat new pavement, and they just tried to align it and it didnt help, and they refused to try anything else.
I noticed that my car also doesn’t really track straight as well as it should. It feels like it pulls left pretty hard. It’s only got 1,000 or so miles on it. I thought it was because I changed tires from stock Pirellis to Michelin Alpin winter tires that maybe the car needed a front end alignment? Would hate to have to be replacing tires every 2 years.
I noticed that my car also doesn’t really track straight as well as it should. It feels like it pulls left pretty hard. It’s only got 1,000 or so miles on it. I thought it was because I changed tires from stock Pirellis to Michelin Alpin winter tires that maybe the car needed a front end alignment? Would hate to have to be replacing tires every 2 years.
Along with there being no Camber adjustment OEM to allow more even tire wear there is also no Caster adjustment to correctly resolve steering pull !
Often quoted reassuring “Full Front & Rear “4” Wheel Alignment” is in fact only Toe “directional” adjustment.
I'm experiencing the same issue, my E63 wagon is at the dealer for some other service and they said cords were showing on the front tires.
Seems ridiculous that a car would be designed from the factory to wear so aggressively on just the inside edge, not even gradual wear across the tire, the rest of the tire is fine
I had posted about this before, i took it to 2 dealers because the car doesnt track straight and would pull/drift even on perfectly flat new pavement, and they just tried to align it and it didnt help, and they refused to try anything else.
Looks exactly like my tires did. 20mm drop + added offset + F1 arms plus a competent alignment and over 10K miles on the new set and they're still good for another 10K+.
Looks exactly like my tires did. 20mm drop + added offset + F1 arms plus a competent alignment and over 10K miles on the new set and they're still good for another 10K+.
Adjustable front camber a-arms from f1-fabrication (f1-fabrication.myshopify.com). Their site doesn't list W213 but if you email them they do sell them. Contact info is on their facebook page.
Assuming you've lowered your MB, you need adjustable A arms. F1 Fabrication sells them (email and ask). Any decent shop can install them. Be sure to have a full alignment after the arms are installed. I destroyed my front tires in 2K miles after I lowered and aligned with the stock A-Arms (also +15mm front and +12mm rear offset) I have over 10K on the tires I put on when I had the A-Arms installed. No unusual wear.
Adjustable front camber a-arms from f1-fabrication (f1-fabrication.myshopify.com). Their site doesn't list W213 but if you email them they do sell them. Contact info is on their facebook page.
Typically how expensive is the shop work to get these installed? Are there any additional benefits to adding these to the car besides preventing abnormal tire wear? Apparently they’re now on their website now for $515.
Along with there being no Camber adjustment OEM to allow more even tire wear there is also no Caster adjustment to correctly resolve steering pull !
Often quoted reassuring “Full Front & Rear “4” Wheel Alignment” is in fact only Toe “directional” adjustment.
I asked the dealer about this today and they scoffed and said "of course the car has camber, caster, and toe adjustments in the front! we align AMG cars every day!" and wouldn't hear it.
Further evidence the dealerships are idiots
The same guy also tried to tell me "all cars will drift to the right if you take your hands off the steering wheel, because roads are banked" LOL
Typically how expensive is the shop work to get these installed? Are there any additional benefits to adding these to the car besides preventing abnormal tire wear? Apparently they’re now on their website now for $515.
Adjustable front camber a-arms from f1-fabrication (f1-fabrication.myshopify.com). Their site doesn't list W213 but if you email them they do sell them. Contact info is on their facebook page.
Thanks! So these are for the front A-Arms since they mention that these are for the rear wheels??
The cost to have A-Arms installed depends on what the going rates are where you're located. Basically it is what it would run to R&R the stock arms. However you also need to do a full (front and back) alignment after you lower and install the arms. F1 also sells hardware for the rear. I didn't go that route and I'm having zero issues so I'm not sure what that stuff will get you.
One thing to understand is lowering/swapping out the a-arms may break a part of your warranty. MB warranties everything based on the OEM equipment. Take it to a dealer and they likely will push it back to you as it now has non OEM parts. If you have a good relationship with the service department and they installed the arms you may be OK. Best case they'll cover everything, worst case all costs for suspension repairs is on you. Then again, how often does one have suspension problems?
12-10-2021, 09:04 AM
