A few questions for those that either track their E63S or do a lot of "spirited driving".

What tires and tire pressures are you running?
What brake pads?
Did you upgrade your rotors?
Any other mods (cooling, brake lines, whatever)?

I have stock camber (~2deg) on front and can eat through the outer side of Michelin CUP2R in under an hour, apparently regardless of the pressure (attached pic after an hour of pushing it somewhat hard, cold pressure ~2.5bar, hot ~3.2). Even the stock P Zeros lasted significantly longer (~2.8 cold pressure ate through the center while keeping the sides relatively pristine). Next spring I'm thinking I'd give a chance to PS4S/5S.

Obviously, with the cars weight, I eat through the front pads in ~2-3 hours (braking from 220-250km/h to 80-100, about 80 times per hour, stock steel discs). Considering getting Endless or EBC pads.

Yeah, I know it is not the best car for tracking, but I guess I'm kinda mentally challenged. Considering getting a Porsche GT4/GT4 RS, but E63S is just more fun, I don't need to set any lap records.

 

@vydra In my track experience many years ago, street tire shoulders die in just a few hours of full-on track use, even on lighter cars. Your picture looks quite familiar. I remember little ***** of rubber piled up across the tire. If PR lap times are what matters, tires die in just a few laps. It's an expensive hobby.

 

Absolutely, it's just that CUP2 Rs seem to die really fast, compared to PS4S (on a friend's E63S with the same pressures) or P Zero, so I'm wondering if the compound is that soft or if I'm doing something wrong (toe, pressure, idk).
Especially since there is usually still loads of tread remaining in the center and on the inside edge with CUP2 R. I even tried taking the right-hand turns a bit more slowly to preserve the left-front tire, + even driving in drift mode to put a little less pressure on the front overall and I can still make that picture happen in under an hour lol. Destroyed CUP2 Rs are starting to pile up in my garage 😅

 

EBC RP-X pads hold up well to track use and can be used in daily driving as well if you don't mind the additional noise. The issue I've found is that the transmission will build up heat quickly and needs some cool down laps. It definitely won't go for a full 30 minute session.

 

I've had a tab with RP-X open for a few weeks now, I don't mind the noise (I survived hours in Cayman GT4 without earplugs lol), so I might give it a try (here they cost almost exactly as much as the stock ones, so if they survive just one session more it's worth it lol).
Transmission temps on our track are usually fine, I can push 25 for mins and it does not go up much.

 

Definitely keen to follow. I just traded in a CT4-V Blackwing for a wagon. I love tracking the BW but I wanted something a bit more practical. The BW came with PS4S tires and they were great. Only did 2 track days with them but they are still full of life. Very good even on a 3800 lb car. I bought a set of Hankook RS4s too, and they are great. They spent most of summer on the car.

I'm planning to track the wagon at least once a year, and would prefer not to blow through an entire set of rubber each day, but yeah, lol.

 

Wouldn't adding more negative camber extend the life of the tires?

 

I assume so, but I’d need to get aftermarket arms as the stock ones are not adjustable (idk if I trust camber plates/bolts lol). I might do that eventually too, but want to keep the car mostly stock.

 

I'd be curious how the Pilot Sport S 5s perform under track conditions. They're not Cup2s, of course, but they are a vast improvement over the PS 4S in all ways. They handle better, are stickier, yet have a 300 wear rating. The reduction in road noise is amazing, although that's a touring thing and not a track thing.

 

W213 all incl AMG E63/S

YES HARD TO BELIEVE EVEN A PRESTIGE AMG “PERFORMANCE” MODEL - THERE'S NO CAMBER (OR CASTER) ADJUSTMENT OEM !


BACKGROUND:

IT IS ALL TO DO WITH COST CUTTING AND EVER INCREASING SPEED OF NEW CAR ASSEMBLY LINES. Camber is now “preset to suit only showroom height conditions”. Stopping to adjust / set Camber on the production line IS NO LONGER AN OPTION.

THE OFTEN QUOTED / REASSURING “Full ‘4’ Wheel Alignment” is now only basic TOE “DIRECTIONAL” ADJUSTMENT ! New car industry’s best kept secret.

PUTTING ONUS “BACK ON OWNERS” - TO FUND COSTLY, PREMATURE TIRE REPLACEMENT.

EITHER THROUGH TRACK DAYS - Not being able to “DIAL IN EXTRA NEG. CAMBER” - to significantly REDUCE UNDERSTEER !

…..IN THE ENDEAVOUR TO HIT THOSE CORNER APEXES EVERY TIME AND GO “DEEPER INTO THE CORNERS” - WITH INCREASED TRACTION AND BRAKING RESPONSE.


OR JUST HAVING “ONGOING ADJUSTMENT CAPABILITY” - TO CATER FOR DAY TO DAY COMMUTING encountering high cambered roads with excess passengers side edge wear, or having excess edge wear on both sides through altered height / excess passenger loads or lowering. Plus adjustment to cater for curb knock damage (excess edge load can also lead to ruptured side walls and rim damage).


SOLUTION:

K-MAC - We’ve the “Experience” of resolving OEM suspension shortcomings since 1964 - THEREFORE HAVE RE-INSTATED FRONT & REAR ADJUSTER KITS. AND ESPECIALLY DESIGNED TO BE “BOLT-ON” - THAT REQUIRE “NO SPECIAL TOOLS” OR TIME CONSUMING “ARM REMOVAL” !

W213 FRONT SUSPENSION - Instead of “STRUT” W213 MODELS HAVE UPPER “WISHBONE”. We therefore manufacture 2 options - UPPER or LOWER arm adjustment.

UPPER - you can purchase WELDED FABRICATED ARMS. But for security / warranty / peace of mind - WE INSTEAD RETAIN THE EXISTING OEM HIGH STRENGTH FORGED ALLOY ARMS. And alternatively provide PRECISELY ADJUSTABLE BUSHINGS.


“CHECKLIST” - FRONT “UPPER” VERSUS “LOWER” ARM ADJUSTMENT:

1. UPPER ARMS - more difficult to fit having to remove shock assembly (K-MAC lower arm kit - no arm removal or special tools).

2. More difficult to adjust (while lower arms “ULTIMATE” - FAST / PRECISE EASILY ACCESSIBLE, SINGLE WRENCH. Simply “dial in” - (DIRECT ON ALIGNMENT RACK) UNDER LOAD.

3. If adjusting to resolve excess inner edge tire wear - Upper arms “REDUCE” important clearance top of tire to outer fender. Lower arms retain (plus extra track width on race days).

4. K-MAC Lower arm bushings replace also the ‘4’ “highest wearing”.

5. LOWER ARM - Available for “Camber” only (2) - Or “Camber and also Caster” (4).

6. K-MAC Caster bushes are also specially designed Mono ball / Self aligning. Replacing the OEM soft rubber bushings. Still allowing arms to travel through their required suspension arcs BUT SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVING BRAKE AND STEERING RESPONSE and without the unforgiving harshness of Mono ball steel bearings.

7. All above features also applies to rear kits. (Upper versus lower arms). K-MAC REAR ALSO INCLUDES EXTRA TOE ADJUSTMENT to compensate for addition of rear Camber.


SEE SPOILER RE TOTAL SYSTEM:

FIXING IT RIGHT THE 1ST. TIME - Ending the frustration of going from one dealer or alignment shop to the next or deciding it must be a tire brand issue !






AUDI to VOLVO - Experience Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and costs) Since 1964 !

 

I have always known...if I am going to a track day, I am going to buy tires. Cost of admission.