Help...Fitment issue for w208 19's
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2002 clk 430
Help...Fitment issue for w208 19's
02 clk 430 Rims are Stern hypermesh 19 by 9.5 rear 8.5 front all with 35 offset, the rear fit fine but the front wont go on properly due to the "Grease cap" i believe they have 2.5 front lip anyways here is a pic i took with my camera phone if somone can tell me the problem or how i can remove the grease caps or willl i need spacers pleassse tell me ???
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2002 clk 430
Fitment issue any help... w208 19's
So there are more problems with fitment on my car, 02 clk 430 , i have 19 inch stern hypermesh in chrome, the rims are 8.5 up front with 2.5 lip 35 offset there were issues at first but the center/dust cap was removed and the wheels went on fine. After putting the rears on we noticed the car wouldnt move in Drive and we put light acceleration on the pedal you could feel a loud noise on both rear tires. The rear size is 19 by 9.5 with 3.5 lip with 265/30/19 goodyears eagle's on with 35 offset also. After putting a 2mm spacers only on the rear the car started moving in park but there was still noise when moving at any speed in the back but just not as much compared to when there wasnt any spacers, do you guys suggest i use new lug nuts since i am using stock ones ? or is that not the problem and i need a bigger 5mm spacer for the rear ??? Any advice would be ideal..... thanks
TR Moderator & Tire God
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From: SouthBend, IN USA
depends on the weather
I just looked at the picture .. .waht's the PB Blaster for ???
if you are doing what I think you are you may want to read this ...
if you are doing what I think you are you may want to read this ...
Originally Posted by Luke@tirerack
I thought everybody understood the use of anti-seize until I spoke with a person who is ...err ...was very well
respected in the automotive industry and sent him to school... So I thought I would share this info. If he didn't know
I'm guessing alot of others wouldn't either.
Anti-sieze on a lug bolt is a very bad idea !!!
Here's why: Bolts or studs provide clamping force by being purposely stretched. Most torque specs bring a bolt well
within its elastic limit. Then when loosened they will return to their original length and can be safely reused (Some
bolts, including many head bolts, are purposely stretched past their elastic limit, and can not be reused). The torque
wrench is the most convenient-but not the most accurate-method of properly stretching automotive bolts. Engineers
spend hours correlating the proper bolt stretch to the required turning effort.
About 90% of a torque specification is used to overcome friction; only 10% of the specified twisting effort provides
clamping force. It is no surprise then that most lubricant tables recommend a 40-45% reduction of applied torque when
using anti-sieze on a bolt. So, a lugbolt coated with anti-sieze should be tightened to a maximum of 49 ft-lbs.
Tightening this lugnut to 85 ft-lbs. means it is now over-torqued by 73%! Considering that most torque specs stretch a
bolt to within 70% of its elastic limit, over-torquing by 73% will easily send the bolt or stud well beyond its
elastic limit-and could be dangerously close to its failure point.
For this reason I would suggest to all forum members to never use anti-seize on your lug hardware.
respected in the automotive industry and sent him to school... So I thought I would share this info. If he didn't know
I'm guessing alot of others wouldn't either.
Anti-sieze on a lug bolt is a very bad idea !!!
Here's why: Bolts or studs provide clamping force by being purposely stretched. Most torque specs bring a bolt well
within its elastic limit. Then when loosened they will return to their original length and can be safely reused (Some
bolts, including many head bolts, are purposely stretched past their elastic limit, and can not be reused). The torque
wrench is the most convenient-but not the most accurate-method of properly stretching automotive bolts. Engineers
spend hours correlating the proper bolt stretch to the required turning effort.
About 90% of a torque specification is used to overcome friction; only 10% of the specified twisting effort provides
clamping force. It is no surprise then that most lubricant tables recommend a 40-45% reduction of applied torque when
using anti-sieze on a bolt. So, a lugbolt coated with anti-sieze should be tightened to a maximum of 49 ft-lbs.
Tightening this lugnut to 85 ft-lbs. means it is now over-torqued by 73%! Considering that most torque specs stretch a
bolt to within 70% of its elastic limit, over-torquing by 73% will easily send the bolt or stud well beyond its
elastic limit-and could be dangerously close to its failure point.
For this reason I would suggest to all forum members to never use anti-seize on your lug hardware.
Thread Starter
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2002 clk 430
No problem, the front fits fine now with no problem or noise, but like i said any advice on the rear would be very helpful right now.... Do you think its that i need a bigger spacer for the rear ? or is it the rear lug nuts ? what you guys think ????
Newbie
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clk430
+1 for buying wheels that fit properly!
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Newbie
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clk430
pretty sure I figured out the problem.
stock lug bolts are too long for the wheels. seems the bolts are going to far in and they are making contact with the ebrake. going to either grind the bolts down about 5mm or get some new lug bolts that are already shorter.
stock lug bolts are too long for the wheels. seems the bolts are going to far in and they are making contact with the ebrake. going to either grind the bolts down about 5mm or get some new lug bolts that are already shorter.
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04 S430 (sold),05 X5 4.4i, 02 325i, 87 560SL, 85 Alfa Romeo
You dont want to run that car with the grease caps missng from the front unless unless you plan on replacing you front bearings after you get towed home.
Except of course if you plan on checking the grease weekly or daily and making sure no water gets into the hub. Of course that would mean removing the wheel..
If those wheels won't fit the grease caps on you should consider Luke's advice.
