Anyone just replace the Replace front pads and not rotors?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
STS,FGT,12C,P85D,M4
Anyone just replace the Replace front pads and not rotors?
I'm getting the Brake Lining Wear Message.... I looked at the front pads, and they are pretty low...
Has anyone just replaced the pads on their C32 on and not the rotors?
I've replaced brake pads a few other cars, but I've usually had some sort of instructions to work with....
Is it simple on the C32? Do I have to replace the sensors as well?
I was going to buy the EBC greens, but from what I read, the Porterfields might be a better choice?
where can I buy both the pads an sensors?
thanks!
Has anyone just replaced the pads on their C32 on and not the rotors?
I've replaced brake pads a few other cars, but I've usually had some sort of instructions to work with....
Is it simple on the C32? Do I have to replace the sensors as well?
I was going to buy the EBC greens, but from what I read, the Porterfields might be a better choice?
where can I buy both the pads an sensors?
thanks!
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 711
Likes: 1
This is a 10 minute job per side, EASY DIY
I would go with either OEM AMG or Porterfield, depends on your driving style. Porterfields R4S offer slightly less dust and better fade resistance if you drive hard. They are not as good cold, and will be harder on your rotors than OEM AMG though. I heard that there are two versions of the AMG, the newer is less dusty than the older.
Pad Removal
Tools:
Small hammer, medium flat blade screwdriver
flat tipped metal centerpunch (ie countersink for finishing nails)
Steps to remove front AMG pad:
Jack car at front
Remove wheel
(on passenger side, disconnect and then remove pad-wear sensor. There is no sensor on driver's side)
Insert center punch in small hole at outboard side of caliper facing you, lightly tap the retainer pin "back" through and remove it.
Repeat for the second retainer pin.
Using screwdriver push on pad to fully compress piston into caliper housing, (leave caliper in its position as-is)
Remove old pads through the slot created by the removal of the pins.
Installation of new pads
Insert pads in slot
Insert wear sensor and connect it
Insert pins and tap them fully back into position
Reinstall wheel.
Repeat for other side of car.
I would go with either OEM AMG or Porterfield, depends on your driving style. Porterfields R4S offer slightly less dust and better fade resistance if you drive hard. They are not as good cold, and will be harder on your rotors than OEM AMG though. I heard that there are two versions of the AMG, the newer is less dusty than the older.
Pad Removal
Tools:
Small hammer, medium flat blade screwdriver
flat tipped metal centerpunch (ie countersink for finishing nails)
Steps to remove front AMG pad:
Jack car at front
Remove wheel
(on passenger side, disconnect and then remove pad-wear sensor. There is no sensor on driver's side)
Insert center punch in small hole at outboard side of caliper facing you, lightly tap the retainer pin "back" through and remove it.
Repeat for the second retainer pin.
Using screwdriver push on pad to fully compress piston into caliper housing, (leave caliper in its position as-is)
Remove old pads through the slot created by the removal of the pins.
Installation of new pads
Insert pads in slot
Insert wear sensor and connect it
Insert pins and tap them fully back into position
Reinstall wheel.
Repeat for other side of car.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
STS,FGT,12C,P85D,M4
thanks for the info.... seems straightforward..... I've done the brakes on my RX-7 and Viper a few times.... this seems similar....
after removing the pads, do I need a special tool to push the pistons back in to the caliper? do they just push in? or do they twist?
where is a good place to just buy the OEM pads?
thanks
after removing the pads, do I need a special tool to push the pistons back in to the caliper? do they just push in? or do they twist?
where is a good place to just buy the OEM pads?
thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
From: Boston/Hartford
Hi,
After putting the pads in and securing everything. Just go inside the car and pump the brakes a few times. The pedal should go all the way down and after the 3rd time or so you will feel pressure again. This forces the pistons back out.
Prasith
After putting the pads in and securing everything. Just go inside the car and pump the brakes a few times. The pedal should go all the way down and after the 3rd time or so you will feel pressure again. This forces the pistons back out.
Prasith
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
SLK32
Fikse, you get the new brake pads installed? I am about to change mine. Need to drop the car off at the dealer for a warrany issue and will pick up some brake fluid at the same time. I am going to change the pads and the lines.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
STS,FGT,12C,P85D,M4
yes, I installed them the other day..... very easy to do.... I didn't want to get hosed by the dealer telling me that I had to the pads and rotors....
I bought the pads from the dealer, $126, and they also sold me two sensors.... $8 each.... when I got home, I saw there were two sensors inside the box of brake pads....
so I'll take the extra sensors back...
of course, I started on the drivers side..... and since they sold me two sensors, and the box came with two sensors, I thought there was a sensor on each wheel!@#
so I wasted about 15 minutes very closely examing the caliper looking for the sensor that didn't exist!@#$
ah well...
I bought the pads from the dealer, $126, and they also sold me two sensors.... $8 each.... when I got home, I saw there were two sensors inside the box of brake pads....
so I'll take the extra sensors back...
of course, I started on the drivers side..... and since they sold me two sensors, and the box came with two sensors, I thought there was a sensor on each wheel!@#
so I wasted about 15 minutes very closely examing the caliper looking for the sensor that didn't exist!@#$
ah well...
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
SLK32
So no issues with the method posted above? No problems getting the new pads in and everything back together? I have an SLK32 and people always show taking the calipers off to change the pads.
Do I need the new sensors? I only have 10k miles on by brakes, but damn am I tired of the dust. I have a set of porterfields I need to put on.
Do I need the new sensors? I only have 10k miles on by brakes, but damn am I tired of the dust. I have a set of porterfields I need to put on.
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
STS,FGT,12C,P85D,M4
not sure how many sensors the slk has, but yea, you will definately need to replace them.... the sensor gets destroyed once you remove it from the pad.....
I don't see why you would have to remove the caliper to replace the pads unless you were replacing the rotors as well....
I don't see why you would have to remove the caliper to replace the pads unless you were replacing the rotors as well....
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Super Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 828
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From: Atlanta, GA
SLK32
You filed down the point to a flat surface? If so that would be the equivilant of a pin punch and I would know what to purchase. What would be your best guess on size 1/8th or 1/4 inch? If you remember it would be a help. I could really always just go jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
STS,FGT,12C,P85D,M4
Definately 1/8th or less.... In the past, I've snipped off the tip of a small philips screwdriver, and used that..... the hole is probably about the diameter of a ball point pen tip...
