Head Gasket Replacement on M111 ???
08-17-2009, 02:08 AM
#1
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Head Gasket Replacement on M111 ???
Anyone replaced a head gasket on an M111?
Or know of a thread that talks about it?
I may be looking at one soon perhaps...not sure yet, but I have leak near the #4 cylinder ever so slightly of coolant.
Or know of a thread that talks about it?
I may be looking at one soon perhaps...not sure yet, but I have leak near the #4 cylinder ever so slightly of coolant.
08-17-2009, 12:14 PM
#2
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
Ohhhhhh, noooo.
To me, it seems the hardest part to deal with would be the timing chain.
HOw did you find the leak? Via Spark plug inspection? Hope it works out.
To me, it seems the hardest part to deal with would be the timing chain.
HOw did you find the leak? Via Spark plug inspection? Hope it works out.
08-17-2009, 11:54 PM
#3
Super Member
I assume since you know it's near cylinder #4, the coolant is leaking to the outside of the engine,.... Since the gasket is bad, you should also check if the coolant is also leaking to the inside of the engine where it would mix with the engine oil,.... and create white (whitish-blue) colour exhaust smoke coming out of your tailpipe. When you're idle and rev the engine, do you see any white exhaust smoke coming out of your tailpipe?
Keep an eye on your engine temperature, if it ever gets too high,... pull over and turn off the engine to let it cool down and rest,.... the worst thing you could do to an engine is overheat it.
Keep an eye on your engine temperature, if it ever gets too high,... pull over and turn off the engine to let it cool down and rest,.... the worst thing you could do to an engine is overheat it.
08-18-2009, 02:36 PM
#4
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I assume since you know it's near cylinder #4, the coolant is leaking to the outside of the engine,.... Since the gasket is bad, you should also check if the coolant is also leaking to the inside of the engine where it would mix with the engine oil,.... and create white (whitish-blue) colour exhaust smoke coming out of your tailpipe. When you're idle and rev the engine, do you see any white exhaust smoke coming out of your tailpipe?
Keep an eye on your engine temperature, if it ever gets too high,... pull over and turn off the engine to let it cool down and rest,.... the worst thing you could do to an engine is overheat it.
Keep an eye on your engine temperature, if it ever gets too high,... pull over and turn off the engine to let it cool down and rest,.... the worst thing you could do to an engine is overheat it.
If you take the head off C230, I think you'll be the first DIYer on this board to do it. I want LOTS of pics!
08-18-2009, 04:56 PM
#5
Super Moderator
Oh No!! 
Good Luck
Look for mayonaise under the oil filler cap
Good Luck
Look for mayonaise under the oil filler cap
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 08-18-2009 at 04:59 PM.
08-19-2009, 12:52 AM
#6
Senior Member
Have you tried re-torquing the head, might help.
I remember when I first signed up on here there was a post about taking off the head with pictures?
08-19-2009, 03:48 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
I spoke with a local indy Mercedes mechanic who says the M111 and M104 which are apparently related, have a tendency to leak as described externally in small amounts in this exact spot.
He said I can very likely continue to drive with no ill effects and just remain vigilant and keep an eye on the coolant quality, and the oil.
Apparently it's more likely to get oil in the coolant than the other way around.
At this point, it's not a crisis apparently.
He said, he has yet to have the head off of one of these, and has seen many with the same pesky leak.
A special tool is required to keep the valves lined up or something such as that...
other than that, it's all pretty standard stuff, just hard wrenching, lots and lots of bolts and screws, and very time consuming.
I've done heads on a Toyota 20R engine, and FIAT 1500 CC, both SOHC.
DOHC would be a challenge...
and then there's the "while you're in there stuff".
I'd want to do a new water pump, thermostat...
SPEAKING of thermostats...
WHERE DO I GET A COOLER ONE???????
Ed, I'm watching the temp guage...if you could call it that...
I think a new thermostat might be in order...
I'm running right about 90-100C most of the time...if I push hard it can get to 120.
80 would be better.
Cooling system is all original; pump, radiator, stat.
On the bright side, put my new brakes on today, and over the last few weeks, resolved all squeaks and rattles, resolved the hatch not opening issue, and the resulting hatch open error;
+ put in tranny O rings, topped up the battery, cleaned the interior, conditioned the leather and plastic,
topped up the coolant ever so slightly after 2.5 years and nearly 40K miles I added maybe 12 oz, the bottom of the bottle from the previous flush at 105K, so not losing much coolant.
Had the broken weld on my Remus repaired, topped up the battery, and gave her a wash; and
posted some pics in another thread.
She's running quiet and smooth....well, until you put your foot down, still smooth, but sounds like an jet at takeoff with all the intake screens removed, SC muffler removed, ASP, header, free flow cat, and Remus....ah...sweetness!
I'd be a good candidate for a C32...if came in a hatch....I love my coupey.
He said I can very likely continue to drive with no ill effects and just remain vigilant and keep an eye on the coolant quality, and the oil.
Apparently it's more likely to get oil in the coolant than the other way around.
At this point, it's not a crisis apparently.
He said, he has yet to have the head off of one of these, and has seen many with the same pesky leak.
A special tool is required to keep the valves lined up or something such as that...
other than that, it's all pretty standard stuff, just hard wrenching, lots and lots of bolts and screws, and very time consuming.
I've done heads on a Toyota 20R engine, and FIAT 1500 CC, both SOHC.
DOHC would be a challenge...
and then there's the "while you're in there stuff".
I'd want to do a new water pump, thermostat...
SPEAKING of thermostats...
WHERE DO I GET A COOLER ONE???????
Ed, I'm watching the temp guage...if you could call it that...
I think a new thermostat might be in order...
I'm running right about 90-100C most of the time...if I push hard it can get to 120.
80 would be better.
Cooling system is all original; pump, radiator, stat.
On the bright side, put my new brakes on today, and over the last few weeks, resolved all squeaks and rattles, resolved the hatch not opening issue, and the resulting hatch open error;
+ put in tranny O rings, topped up the battery, cleaned the interior, conditioned the leather and plastic,
topped up the coolant ever so slightly after 2.5 years and nearly 40K miles I added maybe 12 oz, the bottom of the bottle from the previous flush at 105K, so not losing much coolant.
Had the broken weld on my Remus repaired, topped up the battery, and gave her a wash; and
posted some pics in another thread.
She's running quiet and smooth....well, until you put your foot down, still smooth, but sounds like an jet at takeoff with all the intake screens removed, SC muffler removed, ASP, header, free flow cat, and Remus....ah...sweetness!
I'd be a good candidate for a C32...if came in a hatch....I love my coupey.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 08-19-2009 at 04:05 AM.
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08-19-2009, 07:10 PM
#9
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
So Glyn,
On the Valve Cover and Timing Chain cover is there a special "goop" or Mercedes sealant that goes on with the rubber gaskets?
Heaven forbid that normal spec RTV be used.
Ed
On the Valve Cover and Timing Chain cover is there a special "goop" or Mercedes sealant that goes on with the rubber gaskets?
Heaven forbid that normal spec RTV be used.
Ed
08-19-2009, 10:58 PM
#10
Super Moderator
On no account should acetic acid curing RTV silicone sealants be used. They corrode the hell out of the Aluminium. They can also poisen the O2 sensors.
08-19-2009, 11:55 PM
#11
Senior Member
Yes Ed - MB sell a pale grey branded sealant. If not readily available the grey Yamaha motorcycle equivalent is equal if not better.
On no account should acetic acid curing RTV silicone sealants be used. They corrode the hell out of the Aluminium. They can also poisen the O2 sensors.
On no account should acetic acid curing RTV silicone sealants be used. They corrode the hell out of the Aluminium. They can also poisen the O2 sensors.
08-20-2009, 12:45 AM
#12
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Yes Ed - MB sell a pale grey branded sealant. If not readily available the grey Yamaha motorcycle equivalent is equal if not better.
On no account should acetic acid curing RTV silicone sealants be used. They corrode the hell out of the Aluminium. They can also poisen the O2 sensors.
On no account should acetic acid curing RTV silicone sealants be used. They corrode the hell out of the Aluminium. They can also poisen the O2 sensors.
So, is the proper procedure to put the sealant on both surfaces of the metal and then sandwich the gasket?
08-20-2009, 07:17 AM
#13
Super Moderator
Anyone who has experiened the V6 112 PCV covers on the cambox will know if you don't seal them they sweat oil & make a mess. So I use sealant sparingly everywhere apart from head for a nice dry engine. The Benz material is excellent but in the racing fraternity Yamabond rules so I just use it - old habits die hard. When it comes to teardown the Yamaha product is also a pleasure. Things come apart easily & it cleans up well. Sorry for the long story.
