The OP's car is not an EVO. There is a 2.5-16v that was never sold in the U.S. but it's not an EVO.

 

The model you have is NOT an EVO! Your model is a 2.5-16v that was not sold in the U.S. It's critical you purchase the correct parts for your specific model otherwise you'll have even more problems.

 

The car you have is a different model than either the 2.3-16v or either of the EVOs. Your car will need different parts from the parts needed for the 2.3-16v and the EVOs!

 

You are incorrect. 20,000 2.3-16vs were built. 5.700 2.5-16vs were built which is the model you have. In addition, 500 EVO 1s and an additional 500 EVO 2s were built.

 

Yes, micro switch and throttle plate switch are two different things in different locations.
Check them both please.

- Cheers.

 

Rufrob, I checked the operation/malfunction of the microswitch for you. At least in my car the microswitch on/off never causes a permanent high idle.
So you should focus on throttle plate switch first.

Throttle plate switch operates like a slide switch. When closed 2 terminals are shorted together. When open all terminal are open, in WOT the other 2 terminals are shorted together.
Your ECU is not signaling an error code there but better check that too.

If these check out, we are running out of things to check. You will be down to the ECU/idle controller malfunctioning I'm afraid.

- Cheers!

 

Thanks.
I was too tired to check it yesterday I'll do it tonight.
The other 2.0l 190 I had, I had to adjust the throttle cable to release the micro switch to keep the engine from stalling. This car doesn't seem to work that way.

 

Your ECU is forcing a super high idle by opening up the IACV (forcing higher than normal voltage on it) prior to even warming up.
If it was forcing somewhat high idle (like 1000-1200rpm) there could be other reasons for that but this high of an rpm begs me to believe there is something wrong with the ECU.

It is also not getting into closed loop emissions control. There could be other reasons for that (like bad coolant temp reading, etc) but it could also be just the ECU misbehaving.

Let is know what you find out about the throttle valve switch.

 

Also, 50% duty cycle at operating temp may be signaling a bad oxygen sensor or faulty wiring. You should check that after checking the throttle valve switch.
You can check the internet on how to check the oxygen sensor, that is done by accessing the connector under the passenger carpeting and measuring the voltage on the O2 sensor (single wire, you will need to find a ground close by, he door latch is a good place for a ground.

 

The throttle cable micro switch tested ok
The throttle plate micro switch pin 1-2 grounds when the plate opens but 1-3 is grounded all the time including WOT.
Checked o2 sensor. It was disconnected

 

All plugged in but wont start. Think the battery is weak. I'll charge it and try again tomorrow.

 

Wow, yet another disconnected sensor. One wonders what the previous owner was up to. Probably was getting a Check engine light, so they just unplugged it.

Let us still tackle this one issue first: TPS

This is from memory so check on the internet for accuracy:

a: Pin1 - Pin2 = closed (shorted) when TP is closed
b: Pin1- Pin2 = open when TP is open
c: Pin2 - Pin3 = open when TP is not in WOT, closed/shorted in WOT
d: Pin1 - Pin3 = I believe always open but check on the internet.

Report on a,b,c,d line items when you can so that I know if I have my pin#'s wrong I can still figure that out with the data you are sending me.
Maybe send the data in this form:

TP closed: PIn1 - Pin2, Pin2 - Pin3, Pin1 - Pin3 (values, open or short)
TP open: PIn1 - Pin2, Pin2 - Pin3, Pin1 - Pin3 (values, open or short)
TP WOT: PIn1 - Pin2, Pin2 - Pin3, Pin1 - Pin3 (values, open or short)


After this I will ask you to do another quick experiment, but also with the O2 sensor plugged in now when you do start the car, report on those duty cycles again (ignition on, engine on, cold and hot)

- Cheers!

 

Resistance between
1-2=0.01 closed
1-2= short at open to wot
1-3=short closed, open and wot
2-3=short and open 0.01 at wot

IGN on
3-2=3.71
6-2=12.24

But wont start. It's flooded. Forgot my spark plug puller.

 

Sorry rufrob but your data set is not understandable as it seems to have typos.

Present it in this table form that I mentioned. Fill in your data:

TP closed: 1-2 short, 2-3 open, 1-3 open
TP open: 1-2 open, 2-3 open, 1-3 open
WOT: 1-2 open, 2-3 closed, 1-3 open

Just plugging in O2 sensor even if defective will not cause flooding at cold, it has no function at cold. Something else must have also changed lately.
Are you sure you did not make one "other" modification.

Or if it did not start and you kept cranking, it will eventually flood because the fuel never gets ignited. But again something must have been changed for it to not start now all of a sudden.

 

I think that's what happened I kept cranking and flooded it

TP closed 1-2 open, 1-3 short, 2-3 short
TP open 1-2 short, 1-3 open 2-3 open
TP WOT 1-2 short, 1-3 open 2-3 open

I just finished work so I'm going to check the car again

 

rufrob, your TPS is busted. Here is how a working one (be it in a 2.6-12V but I doubt the engine matters) is supposed to behave:
TP closed 1-2 short, 1-3 open, 2-3 open
TP open 1-2 open, 1-3 open 2-3 open
TP WOT 1-2 open, 1-3 open 2-3 short

I just checked mine for you. So my memory was correct, it is like a slide switch.
1-3 always open.
1-2 short if TP closed
2-3 short if TP WOT
All other combinations always open.

Before you find a replacement though once you have the car back running, you should see what happens to your idle if you unplug the TPS and just short pins 1 and 2, leave 3 open. You can't drive the car like that but see if that fixes your high idle problem.

 

Obviously, you need to short on the harness side not the switch side for this experiment

 

I got it started last night but it was difficult.
Then idle fluctuation until to frequently stalled. The sensor plate movement was much milder than before. After holding the throttle open until it warmed up the stalling stopped but the idle was low.
I also changed the heater control valve which looked original.
I was too tired and busy last night to check the tps again. I'll do it today.

 

Checked it again today.
Terminal x
3-2=3.64
6-2=12.10
TPS
Closed throttle 1-2 short, 1-3 open 2-3 open
Open throttle 1-2 open 1-3 open 2-3 open
WOT 1-2 open, 1-3 open 2-3 short
So it seems ok.
It flooded again and again.
I cranked it with the plugs removed and a nice even spray came out of each hole.
WOT is needed to start.
Now, No cold high idle. It's like the IACV stopped working and the cold start injector is stuck open.
I set the FD to just a trick when the FP is jumped right? This is what the plugs looked like.
I found a few vacuum connectors to be loose or split so I'll get a new piece of hose.

 

Checked it again today.
Terminal x
3-2=3.64
6-2=12.10
TPS
Closed throttle 1-2 short, 1-3 open 2-3 open
Open throttle 1-2 open 1-3 open 2-3 open
WOT 1-2 open, 1-3 open 2-3 short
So it seems ok.
Dolucasi>> Glad you took the measurements again otherwise we would be going down a rabbit hole. Not sure what happened the first time as your measurements were completely wrong and almost impossible.
It flooded again and again.
I cranked it with the plugs removed and a nice even spray came out of each hole.
WOT is needed to start.
Dolucasi>> This is telling us that your ignition is most likely fine but you are getting way too much fuel to flood it. Hard to do with a CSV.
Dolucasi>> Most likely when you adjusted the mixture you turned it way too much to enrich the fuel. So how much did you turn that screw?
Now, No cold high idle. It's like the IACV stopped working and the cold start injector is stuck open.
Dolucasi>> More likely that the jossling of connectors etc. fixed something temporarily. What is the cold idle rpm's right after it starts. If IACV was not working you would get about 1200-1500 rpm after you start.
I set the FD to just a trick when the FP is jumped right? This is what the plugs looked like.
Dolucasi>> Not sure what the questions is here but NO, if you have a running car you do not mess with the adjustment screw, you start measuring your fuel pressures and duty cycle at operating temp. to decide what to do next.
I found a few vacuum connectors to be loose or split so I'll get a new piece of hose.
Dolucasi>> This of course needs to be sorted out before anything else but I though you did all this already. Go over each vacuum line once again.

Just a final reminder only change one thing before you report again.
I would like to see how the car starts with the EHA valve unplugged, that takes away the fuel enrichment and makes it similar to a WOT situation.

 

I don't mean to lecture you but it's critical that you follow the directions that Dolucassi is giving you. You can't keep making additional adjustments and expect to get the same results. I'm also concerned that you're going to burn out your starter with all of the grinding you're doing trying to get the car to start. The fuel distributor is really not meant to be adjusted. You keep changing that setting and that's only adding to your problems and it's making it almost impossible to properly diagnose your car. You need to go one step at a time and don't make any more adjustments.

 

I need to be lectured to. This is a completely new world of pain for me.
I've never had so much trouble getting any car to run. This beats the Lancia Delta Integrale modified motor swap with tonnes of aftermarket bits hands down.
I was busy yesterday so I'll try to get back to the car tonight or tomorrow.
I'm very careful not to crank it for long. So soon as it get it running properly and painted look for it on an auction site.

 

Well rufrob you had plenty of miswired sensors, unconnected sensors etc so far, so you can blame the previous owners for those.
Oddly this is the simplest fuel injection system ever created. It does not even need OBD to diagnose things.
Once you figure out the details it is a piece of cake. The system is very robust with only a few components that need replacing/service.

Unfortunately most 2nd/3rd hand owners get frustrated because previous owners have messed around without knowledge or put in aftermarket parts for critical components etc.

I have mentioned this before here or on other posts, my Jetronic have only had the following done in the last 33 years 205K miles. Yes the car turned 33 on April-1st this year.

(1) 90K miles - O2 sensor and lambda adjustment
(2) 110Kmiles/10 years - OVP replacement
(3) 120 Kmiles - Fuel Pumps replaced (needed about every 120K miles if the car uses quality fuel and car does not sit for long periods without fuel stabilizers)
(4) 150 Kmiles - FD replaced with a JY find (could have been rebuilt but the expertise was not around at the time)
(5) 175 K miles - OVP replaced after another 12 years) was causing intermittent but very seldom stalls
(6) 185K miles O2 sensor (just because I figured it has been in there long enough)

If we add up all the parts cost here it is under $1000 over 200Kmiles. Can't beat that.
And most importantly the car has never left me stranded on the road.

So hopefully after you sort this out the next owner will enjoy the car.

I would say, if one has a W201-Cosworth, my best advice to give anyone would be to take out the lap-counter that is pretty much just a novelty item and in its place stick a EHA current meter. Keep the lap counter if the goal is to show the car in concourse events. I have custom designed a vintage looking meter that should just plug in without any mods. With an EHA current meter in there, no one would even ask for advice for Jetronic issues in forums like these.
Instead they would be giving advice.

Let us know what happens if you unplug the EHA valve connector when you try to start the car cold next time. I suspect it may have an easier time starting because you have a flooding condition with it plugged and the ECU is forcing in the range of +20mA to enrich the fuel. At least, it should not flood with the EHA disconnected.

- Cheers!

 

With eha disconnected it starts right away.
3-2=6.77
6.-2=13.57
Rough but better 1200rpm idle then stalls @80degrees
3-2=6.74
6-2=13.50
Lots of fuel smelly blow by. I leaned it out it starts better, idles higher up To 2000 rpm
3-2=6.82
6-2=13.68
Plugged the eha back in it wont restart
Unplug the eha wot it restarts
Just before the fan kicks on the idle decreased to 1200 then slow creeped back the 1800
Then came down to 950rpm
3-2=6.75
6-2=13.56

 

Let it sit for 1 hour and it restarted right away. High idle then gradually fluctuated down to about 1200rpm.
Shut it off and it would restart only restart with wot. Then same high idle and fluctuate down to 1200rpm.
Less blow by.
Guess I should try adjusting the eha next?