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Bad News from the dealer

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Old 12-06-2010, 06:55 PM
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Bad News from the dealer

Hello,

I have been coming on here for years for repair tips/advice, but have never posted. I have a 2000 C230 with 165k miles. It is a salvaged title so it really isn't worth much. I Just talked to the service tech about my check engine light and I wondering if there is any reason for me to invest the money or just drive it til it dies. Took it to the dealer service center this time because my local mechanic has become flaky and erratic. Here is the list of things needing to be repaired:

* Super Charger leaked oil into air mass censor and oil level censor causing a rough idle. all parts need to be replaced. Repair with parts and labor $3900.
* Motor mounts are shot. Repair $620
*Drive belts cracking, $278
* Front suspension - lower ball joints and control arm bushing cracking, didn't get repair cost

All together I am looking at over $5k. The car is not even worth that much. What should I do? Anyone know an honest/affordable repair tech in Orange County, CA? Any help/advice would be great.

Jason
Old 12-06-2010, 07:31 PM
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I just replaced my MAF, do it yourself, it takes 5 minutes. I was actually sent the unit form a land rover instead and the tube didn't fit, but I swapped out the sensor into the original housing and it works fine. Belts aren't hard to replace and the motor mounts according to others on the forums is a simple job. If you aren't afraid to wrench yourself you can do all of that on your own.

I would grab a hanyes manual and go at it. Make sure you unlock the car and onhook the battery before you do any work down there.
Old 12-06-2010, 08:12 PM
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why not replace it with a similar model that isn't bleeding to death yet? you could part yours out to soften the blow, or find an "almost dog" that needs the parts that yours has that haven't failed yet and combine the two.
Old 12-06-2010, 10:23 PM
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Verify all the issues. You might just have a maf sensor that has failed.

That mileage is typical for failure. <$200 part from most places.

rjp
Old 12-12-2010, 07:23 PM
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Sounds like you are getting ripped off by a service tech that is on comission and thinks you are easy bait. While supercharges can get a bad seal and leak oil, it is pretty rare. I wouldn't be surprised if the oil is coming from a clog in the egr system or something else more simple. You can get a rebuilt supercharger or have yours rebuilt for $400-600 plus installation IF you really need one. You are going to need to clean the oil out of the air induction pipework from the SC through the intercooler and then up the ductwork to the throttle body to get rid of the oil or it will just recoat the new MAF. Belts are going to be less than $60 if I remember right plus a half hour of your time to change. I agree with the rest of Zmatt's post.
Old 12-13-2010, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by xvvvz
Sounds like you are getting ripped off by a service tech that is on comission and thinks you are easy bait. While supercharges can get a bad seal and leak oil, it is pretty rare. I wouldn't be surprised if the oil is coming from a clog in the egr system or something else more simple. You can get a rebuilt supercharger or have yours rebuilt for $400-600 plus installation IF you really need one. You are going to need to clean the oil out of the air induction pipework from the SC through the intercooler and then up the ductwork to the throttle body to get rid of the oil or it will just recoat the new MAF. Belts are going to be less than $60 if I remember right plus a half hour of your time to change. I agree with the rest of Zmatt's post.
agree....
Old 12-13-2010, 06:59 PM
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lots of cars
*Drive belts cracking, $278


WTF!!!!! I just changed mine myself for $25
Old 12-19-2010, 02:36 PM
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I doubt its the supercharger leaking, its more than likely the PCV valve is stuck and causing the system to blow oil into the intake system, therefore oil fouling the air mass. If you replace the air mass now without fixing the PCV issue, you will just oil fould the air mass again in about 2 months give or take. Its necessary to remove the intercooler, pipes after the intercooler and clean them out as best as possible, and replaced the PCV valve and the two hoses that attatch to it too (they become hard as crap and will break).
Old 12-21-2010, 10:13 PM
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Wow,

What can I say but "RUN AS FAST AS YOU CAN!"

Never take your car to the MB dealer

MB dealers in general are going to up sale you anything and everything
that they can conceive to make money from you... its there business.

The only time I ever have gone there is when my cars were under warranty, once out I go to an independent.

They are counting on the owner not knowning anything and just agreeing with what they tell you.
Also the labor rate at MB can range from $95 - $120 an hour.

Find an indi MB shop, there are plenty in OC

Having lived there in Mission Viejo and Laguna Nigel a few years ago, I know there was several independents
around MV area and Irvine area, just can remember the names anymore.

Your issues sound pretty easy to repair.

Motor mounts run around 120ish and takes maybe 20mins to install using simply a floor jack
Drive belt ?? Wow, it must be made of gold! It costs around $25 and takes about 5mins to install
Supercharger leaking oil into the maf? If it really did it maybe as simple as a new seal and maf or just having the maf cleaned.
SC is very easy to service, even a rebuilt unit is only a couple bills and even usually has a warranty.

Last edited by billabongo; 12-21-2010 at 10:23 PM.
Old 12-21-2010, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by billabongo
Wow,

What can I say but "RUN AS FAST AS YOU CAN!"

Never take your car to the MB dealer

MB dealers in general are going to up sale you anything and everything
that they can conceive to make money from you... its there business.

The only time I ever have gone there is when my cars were under warranty, once out I go to an independent.

They are counting on the owner not knowning anything and just agreeing with what they tell you.
Also the labor rate at MB can range from $95 - $120 an hour.

Find an indi MB shop, there are plenty in OC

Having lived there in Mission Viejo and Laguna Nigel a few years ago, I know there was several independents
around MV area and Irvine area, just can remember the names anymore.

Your issues sound pretty easy to repair.

Motor mounts run around 120ish and takes maybe 20mins to install using simply a floor jack
Drive belt ?? Wow, it must be made of gold! It costs around $25 and takes about 5mins to install
Supercharger leaking oil into the maf? If it really did it maybe as simple as a new seal and maf or just having the maf cleaned.
SC is very easy to service, even a rebuilt unit is only a couple bills and even usually has a warranty.
First off when a car comes to the dealer its there job to let the customer know what the car needs, maybe the customer is thinking of getting rid of it and wants to know everthing it needs.... If you have a good relationship with a dealer/ service advisor he will work this you and make a priority list of whats the most important to do now and later.

By all means shop around diffrent dealers , indies do you research and youll find the best price ..


Ok motor mounts about 140 (autohaus az) and your joking about 25 min. lets be realistic... maybe dealers are higher on the labor chart but lets see someone do them in 25 min. with jack stand crawling under the car..

But most shop go off a labor guide and i think those mounts pay 1.2 time units which is fair. ..

Ok ive seen belt prices 35-50 so i would love to see what cheap belts your putting on for 25... and also on this model you have to take the shroud and the fan off so its no hard to do but not easy..

And for the oil in the MAF issue on this model it is cause by the oil seperator on top of the motor... one of the holes gets plugged up and it suck it throught the complete intake system. Just replacing the maf and it will fail very fast you must completey clean all the oil from the super charger, all the intake pipes, the inter cooler, ..... also a note on the inter cooler it tesnds to hold alot of oil in the bottom of it so you have to remove it to clean it..

Most knowledgeable mb indies either are a product of a dealer or knows someone at a dealer.. So billibongo some of you comment are fales and unfair there still are some fair techs at the dealer that take pride in there work....
Old 12-22-2010, 08:02 PM
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How are my comments fake?

Dealers are the most expensive option, period.

I never stated anything against any tech working at either a dealer on Indi.

I have been working on Benz, Audi, Volvo, Porsche vehicles for a long time and have many experiences with both dealers and Indi's.

There are plenty of great mechanics at dealers and Indi's with loads of knowlage and experience.

You do have to remember dealers and dealer services are a business of profit.

Dealer costs are in my opinion outrageous, the same service generally costs less elsewhere.

Having the dealer replace parts using there parts also is another way the make money.
They charge you full retail pricing on there parts.

Often the parts are the same brands available via wholesale costs through other outlets
or available at steep discounts to anyone with a business account through the MB dealer, such as an indi.

My classic example of this, purchasing the sunroof jaw rubber slider for a c280.
This is nothing more than a tiny rectangle piece of rubber with a thin piece of felt on it.
It rides in the channel to provide smooth transitions when sliding back and making sure the sunroof sits level.

Dealer wanted over $27 for 1 (Henderson MB, LV)
Purchased the same exact part and OEM MB bagged for $3.98 wholesale.

I offered my opinion that's all.

lets not start getting off track of the topic... He wanted people to give opinions.

Last edited by billabongo; 12-22-2010 at 08:17 PM.
Old 12-23-2010, 11:52 AM
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Do as much as you can yourself to save $, the rest, let a professional do it, it's worth it.
Old 12-23-2010, 12:01 PM
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Do the belts yourself, it's not that hard. The MAF can be cleaned as long as the sensor wire hasn't broke - search the forum for instructions. Oil level sensor doesn't really matter but will probably keep the light on. Mounts and bushings can be done by any shop for less.

Good luck!
Old 12-29-2010, 08:55 AM
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Clean the MAF.

Fix the oil leak if it's not expensive.

Just drive until it tells you not to.

Old 01-03-2011, 01:53 AM
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2004 C230 kompressor wiper problem. Only works when you're making a turn signal. Do I need to replace the combination switch or is it a relay that needs to be replaced. Went to MB of San Diego and they said I have to repalce the steering column assembly THAT HOLDS THE SWITCH and it will cost $1350.00. Doesn't make any sense. Help.
Old 01-03-2011, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by hcetzneb
First off when a car comes to the dealer its there job to let the customer know what the car needs, maybe the customer is thinking of getting rid of it and wants to know everthing it needs.... If you have a good relationship with a dealer/ service advisor he will work this you and make a priority list of whats the most important to do now and later.

By all means shop around diffrent dealers , indies do you research and youll find the best price ..


Ok motor mounts about 140 (autohaus az) and your joking about 25 min. lets be realistic... maybe dealers are higher on the labor chart but lets see someone do them in 25 min. with jack stand crawling under the car..

But most shop go off a labor guide and i think those mounts pay 1.2 time units which is fair. ..

Ok ive seen belt prices 35-50 so i would love to see what cheap belts your putting on for 25... and also on this model you have to take the shroud and the fan off so its no hard to do but not easy..

And for the oil in the MAF issue on this model it is cause by the oil seperator on top of the motor... one of the holes gets plugged up and it suck it throught the complete intake system. Just replacing the maf and it will fail very fast you must completey clean all the oil from the super charger, all the intake pipes, the inter cooler, ..... also a note on the inter cooler it tesnds to hold alot of oil in the bottom of it so you have to remove it to clean it..

Most knowledgeable mb indies either are a product of a dealer or knows someone at a dealer.. So billibongo some of you comment are fales and unfair there still are some fair techs at the dealer that take pride in there work....

Oh please, the reputation the dealers have is well deserved. They NEVER, EVER go for the simple fix.

I can't remember a single instance where I haven't gone to some goddamn shop and some azzhole insists something is wrong with my car. It's always something different and the only common denominator it will cost >$500 to fix. Just the other day I took my C36 to get the AC topped off (cuz I'm **** like that)

The tech / owner of the shop drags my *** out to the bay

Him "YOU HEAR THAT? SOMETHING IS WRONG" as my car idles

Me: "what do you mean?" (I know what's coming...catastrophe, again)

Him: why does it sound so rough?"

Me: "Cuz it's a C36- they all sound like that..."

Him: "It sounds rough.."

Me: "THE SPARK PLUGS, BOOT EXTENSIONS, MOTOR OIL, AIR FILTER AND O2 SENSOR ARE LESS THAN 24 HRS OLD. I JUST DID A FULL TUNE ON IT, IT'S FINE...."

Then I drove the car 1800 miles with ZERO ISSUES to Nevada.

Next, it's funny how the techs at the dealer always act like it's the 1st time they ever see a specific problem on a given car, despite the fact they work on it every freking day:

The 19 y/o so-called service advisor :"Oh no, we need to diagnose it, 2 hrs..."

Then, of course the next game at the dealer is to fix the problem, and everything else around it.

"Well you need new brakes, and we should replace the ball joints because they are cracked, lug nuts, air in the tires and the wheel too while we're at it cuz it's your SAFETY!- maybe you should get a new brake pedal assembly too just in case..."

It always amounts to a royal *** kicking whenever you take your car to most shops and it's insulting to those of us who do know better but may not have the exact skill or time or patience or tools to DIY.

The dealers don't suffer from incompetence, it's ethics that's the issue. If you find a good shop that actually respects the intelligence of their customers and does what's required and fixes the rest, treat them well because they are definitely the exception, not the norm.

rjp

Last edited by RANDY_P; 01-03-2011 at 12:27 PM.
Old 01-03-2011, 12:19 PM
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1996 C36 AMG, 1970 LeMans Sport, a truck
Originally Posted by jednovero
2004 C230 kompressor wiper problem. Only works when you're making a turn signal. Do I need to replace the combination switch or is it a relay that needs to be replaced. Went to MB of San Diego and they said I have to repalce the steering column assembly THAT HOLDS THE SWITCH and it will cost $1350.00. Doesn't make any sense. Help.

SEE WHAT I MEAN!!!

and jednovero- start with the relay (it's cheap) but frankly it sounds like a switch problem.

If you want a recommendation, I know of a good guy in Riverside /Murretta CA who won't blow your head off.

PM me.
Old 01-03-2011, 12:37 PM
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Also NV people:

Go see Lowell in wholesale parts @ Fletcher Jones LV, he rocks for parts. He's really good about pricing..

rjp
Old 01-03-2011, 04:08 PM
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Thank you for the quick reply. When I went to the dealership I already told them what i suspect is the problem (the combo switch). To install a new column assembly would be the easiest way for the tech. and less man hours but expensive parts and labor which is good for the dealership and too bad for us customers. I will take your advice. First to check on the relay, replace as needed. If it's not the relay then go to plan B, the combo switch. I'll keep you posted. Thank you again.



jed

Last edited by jednovero; 01-03-2011 at 04:28 PM. Reason: More info.
Old 01-03-2011, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jednovero
Thank you for the quick reply. When I went to the dealership I already told them what i suspect is the problem (the combo switch). To install a new column assembly would be the easiest way for the tech. and less man hours but expensive parts and labor which is good for the dealership and too bad for us customers. I will take your advice. First to check on the relay, replace as needed. If it's not the relay then go to plan B, the combo switch. I'll keep you posted. Thank you again.



jed
I'm surprised they didn't recommend changing the hood while they had it up and out of the way.

Let me know how it goes and if u wnat that info for that shop in Murietta.

It's the dealers give this and all cars the expensive and unreliable reputation. Them banging the **** out of the general public is what creates these negative images of the reliability of cars.

PS- you should've just straight up told the SA you are "Broke no money, broke no money" and keep saying that. The average SA is a good liar but a terrible salesman- they fold if you object to the pricing cuz they can't sell. You keep uttering that and watch the estimate get slashed.

My mother did that last year at Nissan dealer (I was in WA otherwise I would've fixed the radiator) started out at $3.6K and after she was done beating the crap out of them it was $1K for new radiator, water pump, hoses and gaskets. She kept saying "I'm broke I can't afford it" and the dummy folded.

Mom was laughing at them...

Last edited by RANDY_P; 01-03-2011 at 04:47 PM.
Old 01-04-2011, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RANDY_P
.

It's the dealers give this and all cars the expensive and unreliable reputation. Them banging the **** out of the general public is what creates these negative images of the reliability of cars.
Agreed 100%. People ask me how I can afford to own a mercedes even though I am a college student. knowing it's coming I ask what they mean. They give the generally held belief that German cars are expensive to own. Then I have to educate them that there is no such thing as Mercedes oil or magic Mercedes tires or anything like that, and if you are smart enough to not let the dealerships screw you over then it is every bit as cheap as a Honda to maintain. My first car was a Honda Accord, I rpelaced the CV joint and timing belts on it along with the normal oil change. The benz isn't anymore expensive. Mobil 1 is still Mobil 1.

The sad bit is, I think most people bring it on themselves. They are either too ignorant or too lazy to get their hands a little dirty and do the small things themselves. I thought the recession would change that, but instead of learning how to maintain their cars they just sold them and got Toyotas. I guess it's a win win for us though.
Old 01-07-2011, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RANDY_P
I'm surprised they didn't recommend changing the hood while they had it up and out of the way.

Let me know how it goes and if u wnat that info for that shop in Murietta.

It's the dealers give this and all cars the expensive and unreliable reputation. Them banging the **** out of the general public is what creates these negative images of the reliability of cars.

PS- you should've just straight up told the SA you are "Broke no money, broke no money" and keep saying that. The average SA is a good liar but a terrible salesman- they fold if you object to the pricing cuz they can't sell. You keep uttering that and watch the estimate get slashed.

My mother did that last year at Nissan dealer (I was in WA otherwise I would've fixed the radiator) started out at $3.6K and after she was done beating the crap out of them it was $1K for new radiator, water pump, hoses and gaskets. She kept saying "I'm broke I can't afford it" and the dummy folded.

Mom was laughing at them...

Finally got my car back from MB of San Diego after they have completed the recall work and fixing a hydraulic leak. Before I left the dealership went to parts dept. to buy the wiper turn signal combo relay switch. Part number 002-542-74-19, color code yellow. At home, started looking where the relay is located. First at under the hood fuse box, then inside the car, finally at the trunk. There were only two relays that's exactly the same as the part I bought from the dealer. The fuse box is at the left side of the trunk . Pulled out the top one and installed the new one. IT WORKS!!!!!! Cost me $16 tax included.
Old 01-07-2011, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jednovero
Finally got my car back from MB of San Diego after they have completed the recall work and fixing a hydraulic leak. Before I left the dealership went to parts dept. to buy the wiper turn signal combo relay switch. Part number 002-542-74-19, color code yellow. At home, started looking where the relay is located. First at under the hood fuse box, then inside the car, finally at the trunk. There were only two relays that's exactly the same as the part I bought from the dealer. The fuse box is at the left side of the trunk . Pulled out the top one and installed the new one. IT WORKS!!!!!! Cost me $16 tax included.

that rocks, glad you're sorted out. In the service dept. you would've gotten the relay as well as the rest of the steering column and a much, much lighter wallet..

rjp

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