Fastbuck

Can anyone advise on how to go about removing the interior door trim?


Thanks in advance.

c230kracer

i would like to knowtoo i needa put in moleskin...my tint is scratched....sad...

DACHIGGA

WEll before some *** tells you to Search the *******g Forum,

Here's how you do it.

There are 3 screws you have to remove first.

1 inder the SRS badge, next open the door and there is a plastic surround that goes around the latch that holds the door shut, there is a screw there you'll see it right away. (look on the side where the door opens) the third is under the door handle, there is a circular plastic cover underneath the handle, pop that out and look inside.

If I'm not mistaken,

the screw on the door latch is a torx 25 and the other ones are torx 27.

Once you remove those three screws, you can then remove the door panels. Do this by pulling them away from the door from the bottom, there are plastic clips holding it together, once all the clips are loose you lift the panel up and out. Keep in mind that the whole door panel is one piece.

Dion.

jedcred

Yeah, STFF. STFF!

j/k

Now that that's out of the way, I wanted to let you know that you are likely to break the plastic anchors on the way in and out, so you may want to pick one or two up at your local dealer for 1.50 - 2 each.

Oh, and just out of curiosity, why remove the door trim? Speakers, or something else?

W0n6_3d4n

Don't forget to remove the light under the door. The door trims are easy to remove but need a carefull alignment when putting it back, make sure the door trim sit flush with the door frame thus sealing it out from the moisture, i found it easier to remove the tweeter cover first then snap the door trim back into place. I'll document the process once i get my SDing material . One more thing, the screw behind the door handle are hard to reach and if u don't have long torx screw handy use a correct size flat head screw driver, it can do the job.

Fastbuck

Thanks for the prompt responses guys.


The reason for removal is that the seatbelt buckle poked a hole through the speaker cover at the bottom of the door. The new one looks like it screws on from the inside.

Cheers.

advans

If you want some pictures to go with it, look up a thread by gaiex, c class coupe door trim removal =)

jedcred

Gahh, I had something similar happen, except in my case the buckle severely dented the foam part of the door. It kinda went away after a while, but there's still a bit of a dent there.

Out of curiousity (and because I'm incredibly lazy) do you mind taking a few pictures of the interior of the door please, specifically where the speakers are? I forgot to do it myself when I took my doors apart, and I'd like to use them for a write-up I'm doing. If it's no inconvienence, of course...

Fastbuck

Will do. It may be a few days though as I have just found out that I need to travel on business on short notice.

Fastbuck

Sorry Jedcred, but due to the inability of this car to move in snow I threw my toys out the pram and sold it in a fit of rage. Nothing to take photos of now until the Land Rover I bought arrives.

Regards

spankdoggie

Well, Fast, I just installed a new speaker cover (the one near the seatbelt on the driver's side door) on my 2003 coupe today... same problem with the seat belt buckle ripping a hole in it...

Getting the door panel off is the easy part, and now I understand why I hear crickets chirping about removing the actual speaker cover.

So I took off the door panel as advised by the guys here above, and propped it up so I would not have to worry about the handle wire and window wires...

The front door speaker cover, the one near the seatbelt is melted or burned into a plastic rivet that binds the speaker cover to the other side. The stealership wanted $240 to install plus 27.50 for the speaker cover. I said no thanks, but I did buy the speaker cover...

To make a long story short I took a chisel and chiseled off the plastic rivets, then I slammed the broken speaker cover out using a hammer and screwdriver. I took my lineman's plyers and pulled all remaining plastic parts off.

After I did this, the cover was removed, and the door was still flawless. Well, apparently the speaker cover that we buy will not fit because it has not been melted down. So I had to hacksaw off over 1/4 inch off the 3 "screw holes." They are not actually screw holes, they are just holes.

Then I went to the hardware store and bought some metal screws that would perfectly fit the holes, and I screwed them in. You also need washers or the screws will not hold the cover.

Bootleg style for sure, but then I am a contractor, so I don't care. The wife wanted it done.

It works perfectly, and no scratches whatsoever anywhere...

By the way, I broke none of the white anchors.

You need torx 25 and torx 30; someone mentioned that torx 27 was needed. The torx 27 will work to remove the 30 size, but you should use the torx 30.

The panel can be pulled off with your hands; do not use a tool unless you are young or something. I have stronger than average hands (I can close the #2 gripper) so it was easy, and no anchors were broken...

It was fun to do.

My wife is really happy, and it saved us $240.